Routes as trad in Mhlabatini

The route is situated at the top of the kloof opposite where the tributary enters on the true left. Look for a finger crack which is undercut by a dassie ledge.

1. 15m 23 Climb up easily to a ledge left and under the dassie ledge. Pull into the finger crack which is undercut and continue up 3m to the top.

The climb is located 70m downstream from the junction of Pool Gully with the main kloof, 20m above a large group of roots growing on a smooth brown face.

1. 18m 15 Start on a boulder, ascend 2m to a ledge, then climb diagonally to the left. Pull up to a small ledge ("Leapfrog" move) and climb into the bottom of a prominent cleft.

2. 18m 6 Climb on ridge on left of the cleft.

3. 9m 8 Go back into recess and climb on right hand wall (optional pitch).

Note:

The crux section of the first pitch may be avoided by using the roots referred to above, but this is not recommended as the roots have deteriorated in some places.

A roped boulder problem through the obvious break in the roof upstream of Forever Young. Start in a hollow formed between a boulder, the wall and the big Forever Young tree. I.e. immediately right of Yahoo.

The route follows a line about 5m upstream from WHERE DO YOU THINK YOURE GOING. It follows an obvious crack 5m right of the smooth face topped by an overhang.

1. 25m 19 Proceed up the crack with chimney technique until it becomes necessary to straddle. Move up a further 3m until it is possible to reach a good jug. Make three strenuous pull-ups to where the rock becomes vegetated and then handrail right 2m and exit with ease. Scramble to the top.

Start 3m right of WHERE DO YOU THINK YOU ARE GOING, above the large boulder, but downstream of the obvious chimney cracks.

1. 25m 25 Climb up a few metres to steeper rock. Move right then make hard moves up to a good hold. Continue more or less straight up via the corners and small roofs above.

A large overhang (split by a gnarly crack) about 20m up is located on the left side of the kloof about 15m upstream of VARIETY. Start at the base of a large boulder next to the face.

1. 30m 23 Climb the slightly right-leaning crack bounding the upstream side of the large overhang.

The roof crack 50m upstream of the STRAIGHT EDGE corner. Start a few metres downstream of WHERE DO YOU THINK YOU'RE GOING.

1. 20m 20 Climb the obvious recess until able to traverse right to a hanging belay beneath the crack.

2. 5m 24 Climb the crack.

The climb starts in a cave-like recess 5m below a group of roots on a brown face which are opposite a large tree growing in the kloof bed (about 30m upstream of STRAIGHT EDGE).

1. 18m 5 Climb up into cave. (This pitch may be slippery in places in wet season).

2. 12m 8 Climb face on left, working back into cleft and eventually chimneying up it.

3. 15m 8 Traverse out to left for 5m and climb up an exposed ridge, finally re-entering the cleft below a large cave.

4. 22m 7 From the back of the large cave traverse outward and upward on the lefthand wall, finally ascending a rough grey face to a stance above the cave.

This climb follows a gully recess 15m up from the STRAIGHT EDGE corner. After ascending the gully for 18m, bear generally right to end at the same point as VARIETY. It is also possible but more difficult to move out left higher up, along a traverse on the left hand wall.

Situated 4m downstream of SKELETON GULLY. Start just to the right of a black water streak on a 4m wall, below a large crack.

1. 25m 16 Climb wall (awkward) to enter crack system, and proceed more easily upwards to large belay ledge.

2. 12m 10 Climb front edge of buttress to ledge, then the crack in some loose blocks to another ledge. Move right to below short corner and up this on good holds to large ledge. Exit on left and scramble to top.

This climb starts on the true right hand side between THE SLIT and CARDIFF ARMS. The latter route starts up a black water streak directly below a chimney/crack. Start approximately 1-2m left of this water streak.

1. 25m 20 Climb the blunt arete and continue up the face diagonally left for 5m. Above is an upstream-facing corner. Climb up the corner and continue up a vague groove to a tree. Either tear up the loose gully above, or ab off the excellent tree on the right.

This climb is situated just to the right of THE SLOT, i.e. about 4m upstream of CLEFT BUTTRESS.

1. 25m 19 Climb straight up to the crack through the overhang. Jam up this, pass the trees on the right, and climb the continuation crack to a large grassy ledge. The crux is at 7m. Finish off as for THE SLOT.

This route starts and continues 1 to 2m upstream of CLEFT BUTTRESS, the crux being the overhanging section at 7m.

1. 25m 18 Climb straight up to the point where the crack cuts the overhang. Jam through, pass the trees on the left, and climb the continuation crack to a large ledge. From here one can scramble off, or climb the chimneys or buttresses above.

Start round the corner from the STRAIGHT EDGE corner and about 3m upstream, directly below a prominent cleft in the buttress.

1. 16m 14 Climb the cleft via awkward mantleshelf-type move.

2. 16m 10 Continue easily to the top.

Starts midway between STRAIGHT EDGE corner and CLEFT BUTTRESS and takes the crack and outside edge of the buttress above.

1. 25m 20 Ascend the layback crack just to the right of a tree growing against the cliff 2m out from the STRAIGHT EDGE crack to a ledge 5m up. Climb the off-width crack (left) to below an overhang and step left to a small ledge on the outside corner. Attain the ramp above delicately and layback through the steep section (crux). Climb more easily to a ledge and eye belay.

2. 12m 9 Chimney up behind stance (as for STRAIGHT EDGE CORNER).

Variation:

1. 25m 19 From the sloping ramp move left around the corner and climb to the same stance on small positive holds. Climb straight up from the top of the off-width crack, that is, do not step left onto the outside corner. (May 1985 Kevin M. Smith, Steve Bradshaw and A. Jack)

Climbs directly up the right hand wall of the STRAIGHT EDGE corner.

1. 20m 23 Climb up the centre of the wall, heading for the rhombohedral-block sticking out above. Notes:

2. Two (pre-placed) fixed pitons provided additional protection at 5m and 15m.

3. A good selection of medium wire nuts is useful e.g. doubles of sizes equivalent to Rocks 2 and 3.

The climb follows an obvious downstream facing corner 150m downstream of the junction with Pool Gully.

1. 20m (15) Climb up crack to a roofed ledge on the right. Stay on the left face at the top until it is easy to step onto the ledge.

2. 12m (9) Chimney up behind stance. Go left on ledge above to bolted anchors.

Pitches 1 & 2 can be done in one pitch by climbing just to the left of the block above the first stance (15).

There are bolted anchors on the ledge. These can be used to abseil back down. It is possible to scramble out from here or to climb the red buttress above the ledge at grade 10, but at much less quality than the previous two.

12m 10 This is an arbitrary pitch up the centre of the red buttress straight above. It is necessary to climb out to the right to avoid an overhang at the top.

1. The Slab Pitch: 30m 15 Climb the slab to the left of the first pitch more or less straight up to the big ledge.

2. Monkey Wee, Monkey Poo: 25m 18 From the top of pitch 1 traverse left for 5m to a chimney/crack. Ascend this with awkward moves.

Starts 3m left of STRAIGHT EDGE CORNER.

1. 20m 18 Climb the wall directly, following the obvious weakness to a steep band near the top. Traverse slightly right and up to small roof. Move left around this and up to good belay.

Instead of traversing slightly right, continue straight up the wall making use of a discontinuous crack through the bulge at grade 21. (Mike Grant)

Takes the slab 8m downstream of STRAIGHT EDGE. Similar climbing to that on QUICK SILVER. Start directly below the slab which is dissected by horizontal rails. Step off a boulder to start.

1. 25m 20 Ascend the slab directly without reference to either of the bounding vertical crack systems. Crux at overlap, at 8m. Move slightly right to the base of the crack system in the headwall. Follow this system for 3m and finish by moving right into a small corner.

The climb is located by two distinctive features jutting out from the top of the kloof like twin cannon, about 30m below STRAIGHT EDGE CORNER. Start at a tree about 10m below STRAIGHT EDGE, where the floor of the kloof takes a drop.

1. 18m 11 Ascend a grey slab and traverse left to a tree, the roots of which can be used as a belay.

2. 5m 7 Traverse downstream to the lower end of the grey slab, passing below the "cannon" to a stance with two trees.

3. 5m 15 Ascend a small nose on thin holds to a ledge under the "cannon".

4. 9m 8 Climb red face to the right of the "cannon".

Start about 5m upstream from INVALID and near the downstream end of a buttress.

1. 25m 11 Start up a slight recess and climb generally diagonally rightwards to where it is possible to move easily through the overhangs. Then climb diagonally left to finally gain a large ledge at the downstream end of the buttress.

2. 15m 15 Traverse about 3m left and then up a small arete. Continue directly up the face above past a piton in place to gain a large ledge.

3. 9m 8 The same as the last pitch on THE CANNON. Climb the red face to the right of the "cannon".

The route follows a vertical line starting on the right side of the corner immediately upstream of INVALID. The start is on a shelf 4m above the stream bed. The line continues through the crux move of THE CANNON and through the overhangs 6m to the left of THE CANNON rocks.

1. 30m 13 Traverse diagonally right 5m, up over a bulge and left over a sloping ramp to a point above the starting tree belay. Climb diagonally left over a delicate balance mantleshelf and around a corner then up to a broad shelf and tree belay. (Long runners should be used to reduce rope-drag problems).

2. 40m 15 At the right end of the shelf climb up and around the corner onto an exposed face following the crack line to THE CANNON crux pitch. This move is protected by a fixed piton. Climb this section in common with THE CANNON. The stance is at the foot of the square cut recess above and in line with this difficulty.

3. 20m 17 Climb 3m up the recess, move out to the left to avoid the bulge and re-enter the recess about 9m up using a few excellent handholds and finally a handjam. Using straddle and hand-jamming techniques enter a "blind" cubbyhole (crux). (Excellent large taper nut crack available in the sloping floor of the cubbyhole). Leave the recess by taking a spectacular breech-rending step to the left and mounting the remaining vertical exposed rock over reasonably good holds.

Note:

Variations may be climbed over the first 4m by moving left and up over very vertical and strenuous rock (15 to 17) or finishing up between the "cannons".

The climb is situated on the downstream end of the buttress on which THE CANNON and BURST BREECH are found (hence climbs name). The line is an obvious, direct crack and corner system and takes in the crux (15) section of THE CANNON. Climb commences in a chimney 1m upstream of a large tree growing on a ledge 6m above kloof floor.

1. 40m 17 Scramble up chimney and past abovementioned tree and break through overhanging roof with jam-crack (crux). Continue directly above through corner and recess, past peg and through the crux of THE CANNON, to a large grassy ledge. (Can ascend one of the upper pitches described for THE CANNON from here).

To the left of the first pitch of INVALID is a relatively smooth slab, capped by a roof. The route climbs this slab. Start 5m left (downstream) of the corner ascended by FALSE INVALID, that is halfway between a small, downstream-facing corner and the large tree.

1. 15m 18 Climb to the rail under the overlap. Gain the slab above at the point where the overlap is the smallest. Climb the slab, trending leftwards to a long narrow ledge at 10m. Delicately step onto the top of the block/flake (seems solid), and hand traverse right along the obvious rail to an alcove belay stance and tree (this is on INVALID). Rap from the tree.

Notes:

1. A Mhlabatini rarity - a slab. Similar in style to QUICK SILVER. Great climbing. Small gear required.

The climb is located about 15m upstream from the pool which spans the kloof near MHLABATINI CHIMNEY. A small crack offers the only route on a near vertical smooth grey face which ends in an open book a few metres to the left of the crack.

1. 28m 13 Using the crack climb 15m to tree sling point in small recess. Continue 9m up left wall of recess and scramble 8m over large sloping ledge to foot of chimney above the recess just climbed.

2. 12m 13 Climb through the first overhang to roof of second overhang. Climb out via face on left (rock is not too sound at this point).

The pitch follows an obvious line up the grey face immediately above the top of pitch 1.

1. same

2. 20m 16 Start in a corner where the grey face meets the steep red face about 2 metres downstream from the top of the recess/chimney just climbed. Move easily to a small overhang at about 7 metres and pull through on the right hand side (crux). Bear right above the overhang and to the summit on granulated grey rock via the line of least resistance.

The route takes a line up the centre of the face immediately upstream of HAWK'S NOSE or SOUL CRUSHER. Climb INVALID's first pitch to gain the large ledge below face.

1. 25m 21 Starting in a small corner below a roof which extends leftwards. Climb the face to a small ledge. The face becomes steeper at this point. Gain a rail 2m above, move left 2m and pull through the grey bulge to finish.

Start from the same point as INVALID.

1. 18m 13 Climb vertical crack about 1m left of the prominent corner to a large ledge to the right of the crack.

2. 30m 15 Follow the obvious line of weakness above ledge directly above the crack of pitch 1 strenuously for about 3m on thin holds. Then scramble for about 15m to the base of a chimney and then to the top via the chimney.

The climb starts amongst the trees about 15m upstream of TEMPTATION CRACK (i.e. about 4m above the pool).

1. 18m 15 Climb the wall near a tree (growing about 1m away from the face) for about 6m. Traverse left on a foot ledge for 5m. Climb a small recess to a ledge.

2. 15m 15,A2 Traverse right and up to a sloping ledge on a nose below an overhang with a protruding right hand wall. Aid up the crack in the middle and then move right and up to a large ledge.

3. 20m 19,A1 Climb the left hand recess to the roof, traverse left until it is possible to reach out and place a nut in the flared chimney. Using this, gain access to the chimney and climb this to the top. (The chimney portion of this pitch has also been aided - 3 pegs 17,A2).

Variation:

2a. 18m 17 Climb diagonally left and then back right to same ledge as original pitch.

This takes a line up on the downstream edge of the SOULCRUSHER/HAWKS NOSE buttress. Scramble up to belay at a thin tree in the original TEMPTATION CRACK.

1. 15m 19 Climb a few metres up TEMPTATION CRACK, traverse about 5m right under the roof until one can breakthrough onto a face. Climb up to ledge shared with SOULCRUSHER.

2. 5m 20 Climb the small downstream facing dihedral 3m left of SOULCRUSHER, exiting right near the top. Climb to the ledge above and belay below the dihedral on the left edge of the buttress.

3. 15m 19 Climb the dihedral, exiting right to belay in a spectacular position.

The feature of the route is the short, impressive, downstream-facing dihedral about 20m above the sandy pool-bed spanning the kloof above MHLABATINI CHIMNEY. Start 3m right of TEMPTATION CRACK.

1. 20m 15 Climb up past the right side of a large overhang at 10m and continue up a crack. Traverse left to a ledge situated below and to the left of the dihedral.

2. 15m 23 Climb the dihedral.

3. 15m 20 Climb the bottomless off-width crack / chimney above.

Note:

SOULCRUSHER partly follows the line of the old aid route THE HAWK'S NOSE.

Upstream from Mhlabatini Chimney there is a pool that spans the kloof (it is now just a sandy bed and you can see the mark of the waterline on the walls on the true right - 2018). The climb starts upstream of the pool.

1. 14m (15) Above the pool is a shallow chimney through the roofs on either side. Climb from the upstream end of the pool and traverse left under the roofs. Climb the shallow chimney and up to a big ledge on the left.

2. 25m (15) Climb up face on the left of the gully to a ledge on the nose under the overhang.

3. 5m (19) Break through overhang on the right.

4. 15m (19) Climb the chimney above.

Note: Pitch 4 can be avoided by traversing out left to the bolted anchor at the top of Mhlabatini Chimney (11).

Start directly below the top chimney of TEMPTATION CRACK.

1. 30m 20 Climb up to the very square roof about 8m up. Climb straight through. Continue to ledge.

2. 40m 19 Climb the crack directly behind through a small roof to the base of the TEMPTATION CRACK chimney. From here straight up to top, as per the original route.

An eliminate between the first pitches of TEMPTATION CRACK and TEMPTATION CRACK DIRECT. Start midway between these two routes.

1. 20m 21 Climb straight up through the small roofs to a ledge.

Start between MHLABATINI CHIMNEY and TEMPTATION CRACK DIRECT, beneath an obvious crack and white root, thicker than a man's wrist.

1. 25m 20 Climb the crack to where it steepens. Move left and continue on good holds to easier rock which is followed to a ledge. Directly above looms a short but steep orange-streaked wall, left of TEMPTATION CRACK DIRECT's pitch.

2. 12m 21 Climb the centre of the wall to a rail and pull straight through the overhang above. Stance below the left bounding buttress of TEMPTATION's final chimney.

3. 18m 19 Climb the vague red recess up the left hand side of the buttress to the top of a short fist crack. Traverse scarily right to the undercut arete and climb this to the summit.

The climb starts in MHLABATINI CHIMNEY at the shallow cave in the upstream face (second stance for that climb) and ascends the upstream face of the chimney for the first pitch, and the downstream face for the second pitch.

1. 25m 18 Climb up right to gain the block (3m), step left, and ascend the wall, passing to the right of the flake. Exit right to a large ledge and then climb up to the top belay stance for MHLABATINI CHIMNEY.

2. 15m 18 On the downstream face gain the vertical crack directly (delicate), jam up the crack to the top.

Notes:

1. Aid was used on the second pitch for the first ascent.

2. Tough for the grade.

Climb the chimney above the point where a small spring of water enters the kloof at the bottom of the chimney.

1. 12m 5 Scramble up above the spring.

2. 22m 13 Climb chimney to a large chockstone.

3. 15m 13 Climb behind chockstone and traverse outwards for 6m and climb through the hole in the roof.

4. 9m 8 Climb a face, alternatively a recess, on the right hand wall.

The fourth pitch is rarely climbed. There is a bolted anchor on the left side (looking outwards/true left) of the recess at the end of 3rd pitch from where you can abseil to the bottom. Watch out for wetting your rope in the stream at the bottom.

The climb goes straight up the buttress on the downstream side of MHLABATINI CHIMNEY. It takes a line mostly independent from DELICACY. Start at the foot of a shallow recess, near the left hand side of the buttress and 10m below a small overhang.

1. 35m 19 Climb up the recess until below the overhang, where a piton can be placed for protection. Stretch up to a hold above the overhang and move up diagonally right through the overhang on small holds (hard). Continue up to a ledge below the next overhang. Traverse right along this and then move up on the corner via an awkward mantleshelf. Continue up for about 3m until level with a ledge on the arete above the overhang. Traverse left with difficulty on polished holds to a stance on this ledge. (Nut runner belays). Alternatively, traverse left beneath overhang to arete then pull up and mantleshelf onto belay ledge.

2. 15m 18 Traverse left for a few metres and then up to the foot of a prominent open book. Climb up this (strenuous) and exit on the ledge to the left. Climb up the right hand wall to a large stance with block belays.

3. 25m 21 Climb straight up the recess above the stance for 8m to where a small nut runner can be placed. Lean across right and clip into a piton (in place). Move across right (1 peg and 1 small nut) before pulling up on to an exposed, cramped ledge below a short overhanging wall. From the right hand side of the cramped ledge climb directly up into a small recess and continue right around the corner to a ledge and resting place. Climb easily up the broken recess above to the top.

The roof crack bounding the downstream side of the top of the BULLIT buttress. Scramble and climb to the highest ledge on the buttress i.e. the ledge from which BULLIT's final pitch starts.

1. 20m 23 Climb up easily leftwards to the corner-crack leading to the roof. Trickily up this crack, then out right along the roof crack to the lip.

The climb starts about 12m downstream from MHLABATINI CHIMNEY.

1. 18m 7 Climb 12m up open book before traversing 9m upstream into recess. Scramble up recess to belay point in crack below platform on right. This platform is on the downstream side of the left hand buttress of MHLABATINI CHIMNEY.

2. 20m 18 Climb 3m up crack to platform. (You could skip this by walking up the recess to the large tree and then traversing right on the mega ledge) Traverse 5m right along large ledge and move up to the next ledge. Climb 5m to ledge on left at foot of the next open book (strenuous). Climb this for 5m and step right onto a comfortable ledge. The open book and ledge are shared with BULLIT.

3. 12m 15 Climb up about 3m in open book then move right onto prominent nose. Traverse right on exposed rock to small ledge.

4. 30m 15 Climb up the corner above on an undercut layback. Then traverse left onto the outside of the very exposed buttress on good jugs and straight to the top.

Note

1. The original ascent made a traverse right from the top of pitch 3 to the top of MHLABATINI CHIMNEY. Pitch 4 as described is fun and really exposed and was first climbed by P. Dawson and P. Nortons

Between the buttress downstream of Mhlabatini Chimney (Bullit is here) and the next buttress is an easy break/gully. The route starts on the left corner of this.

1. 25m (15) Scramble up corner. Gain a big ledge after a tricky move. Continue up and climb a jam crack corner, moving left at the top. Then traverse over smooth sloping ramp to a one-man stance. This is in the middle of pitch 2 of Space Walk.

2. 20m (15) (Crux) Climb up 1 - 2m and continue diagonally left to a good rail. Do a spectacular traverse to the left. There is a decent rest on jugs halfway where you move around the corner. Continue traversing to a big ledge.

3. 20m (7) From the ledge climb diagonally up to corner. Scramble up easily to top.

Variations: Original route went left on pitch 1 before the jam crack to a huge ledge. It is possible to avoid the unimpressive 3rd pitch by abseiling of a tree after pitch 2.

Climbs the steep wall on right of the top pitch of GOOD DOG. An amazing, airy route.

1. 30m 25 Climb the wall passing a few pieces of fixed gear.

Note: Fixed gear replaced in 2023, making this a safe but airy lead. A stickclip is useful for the start.

This route takes the next buttress downstream of BULLIT. It has the largest red overhang on top and a large rotten recess to the right. Start in the middle front of the buttress.

1. 20m 13 Scramble up to a convenient belay ledge. (As for MARKWELL).

2. 30m 19 Climb the main break, fairly easily at first and then with difficulty. Move right into the undercut jam crack at the overhang, and through to a good belay ledge below the top roofs.

3. 25m 21 Climb out easily to left onto a thin crawling ledge. Wriggle out until able to flop out into a handrail position. Traverse left until able to pull through the roofs on small holds. Continue straight up through to the top.

Start about 10m downstream of SPACE WALK. Scramble easily up a grey slab to a ledge and belay around a large tree which is 3 metres downstream of a corner.

1. 25m 19 Climb delicately up a smooth face to a large square roof. At the roof, move right onto a rail which has some large blocks on it. Move back onto the original line and continue up to stance on a polished sloping ledge in a corner.

2. 20m 19 Up the corner for 2m, then move right and up. Traverse easily to a stance common with SPACE WALK.

3. 15m 20 From the ledge move up onto triangular block. Reach high for a jug and traverse left to a stance on the top. Note: For its grade, a spectacular and mind-shattering climb. A bold lead.

shares first pitch of Good Dog

Shares Good Dog Pitch 1 and portion of Spaced OutPitch 2

Start on the true righthand side of the kloof, about 30m downstream from MHLABATINI CHIMNEY. The climb goes up a grey buttress with a small overhang 6m above the stream and capped by a large red overhang 45m up.

1. 30m 19 Climb up to a tree 2.5m above the stream and on the left hand side of the buttress and then move up diagonally right underneath the overhang. Traverse 3m right and then move up through the overhang using a small ledge as hand and foothold, and continue up for a further 3m on small holds to where a nut runner is placed in a vertical crack. Move delicately right for 2m and then up the shallow depression for 1.5m before moving diagonally back up left to a small tree on the face. Continue up for 5m to a ledge on the left hand side of the buttress. From here either climb straight up with difficulty through a small overhang to the large ledge 5m above or, (easier), traverse left around the corner and then up to the ledge.

2. 30m 10 Climb up the large red overhang, bypass it on the right and then traverse back left on to the nose above the overhang. Continue straight up to the top.

Start about 6m right of the original start, on top of a boulder just to the left of a prominent corner, and just right of an arete with a small overhang about 3m up.

1. 30m 20 Climb up delicately to where protection can be placed in a horizontal crack at the level of the overhang. Swing left and move up the arete past overhang via two handholds, before being forced back right on to the smooth face. A very delicate move enables one to reach a good handhold and climb up on to an awkward ledge. Traverse left 3m to join the original route just below the next overhang.

The climb starts about 45m downstream from MHLABATINI CHIMNEY and below the downstream end of a very large overhang.

1. 18m 10 Climb grey slab and continue up over roots before traversing left into corner.

2. 15m 15 Climb overhanging open book to tree stance.

3. 9m 10 Traverse to right and then up face to top

An easy route on the right of the kloof next to a group of large boulders.

The climbing involves the obvious roof crack opposite GABOOM. Start 8m downstream of KLOOF DESCENT group of large boulders.

1. 30m 17 Climb up for a few metres, traverse right to break through a small overlap, traverse back left and climb up to the base of a short buttress. Climb this to a ledge, from which a traverse of 5m left is made to a ledge just below and to the right of the roof crack.

2. 10m 22 Move left and up to the roof, negotiate the crack, and climb the wall above to a ledge on the right.

Note: Which pitch is the catch?

This route is the right hand of three cracks on a buttress about 100m downstream of THE FINAL CUT but on the true right. The buttress is at the top of the kloof. The route takes an off-width-looking crack and is discernable from the river. Approach from the top.

1. 15m 22 Easily up to the roof. Pull through and continue up the crack.

This allows access to the kloof from the lower campsite and traverses above the lower pool and boulder which prevent access to the kloof. (See plan). Start 9m downstream of the pool and ascend 3m then traverse diagonally right to a sapling immediately above the pool. Step down and right under an overhang then up rightwards to a block runner. Descend diagonally right and jump onto the large boulder. The next pool may be passed on its true left (facing downstream) by ascending ledges.

This route is on the true right side of the kloof just 50m upstream of GOLDEN GATE. It takes the break up a grey face which is touched by the branches of a large tree about 18m above the level of the stream. It then continues up the centre of an orange buttress (not visible from the stream).

1. 40m 17 Climb the break to a large overhang and continue up to the right of the overhang (the large branches of the tree will be just behind you). Continue up and slightly left on easy ground to below an overhanging crack.

2. 30m 19 Climb the overhanging crack to easy ground and then climb the arete directly above on good jugs on its right edge.

The route is about 75m downstream of the wade pool at the bottom of Mhlabatini. It starts immediately upstream of a short steep grey wall (30m downstream of FIRE AND ICE).

1. 20m 13 Start up a messy recess and pull past a steeper section to gain a stance.

2. 25m 10 Scramble diagonally right to reach a ledge below an impressive orange and white face on a downstream facing buttress.

3. 20m 18 Climb a thin crack in the face left of the buttress.

The climb is situated 40m upstream from THE GOLDEN GATE buttress and 45m downstream from the big pool blocking the bottom of the kloof. The climb is 5m downstream from a recess and large tree that leans over from the left. Start from a boulder in the river below an overlap.

1. 20m 17 Climb up to the overlap and through easily to the left. Move right to a short steep face and climb this to the corner under the prominent overhang. Swing left and down, then climb the ramp and face to a cubby hole. (At this point, the tree from the other side of the kloof reaches the rock.)

2. 35m 13 Move 3m to the left and climb straight up easy rock to a recess between the buttress on the right and large block on the left. Climb onto the block and then move up and around to the left and climb a recess until it is possible to move across right to a large ledge below a corner.

3. 20m 10 Climb the corner to a cubby hole. Climb into it and then up a crack to top of buttress. Scramble to the top.

Start 30m upstream from THE GOLDEN GATE, in an openbook formed by an undercut buttress.

1. 30m 11 Climb the right hand wall of an openbook, capped by a large overhang 20m up. Climb 10m to small tree growing on face then traverse to left side and around onto the face of the buttress. Straight up on good holds to stance with tree belay.

2. 25m 9 Climb straight up in corner to large stance with tree belay.

3. 10m 5 Scramble to top.

The route ascends the buttress immediately upstream of THE GOLDEN GATE (aka Gatepost) buttress. From the original start of THE GOLDEN GATE, walk behind a huge block and then descend 3 metres to a sloping ledge. One is now approximately 10 metres above the streambed.

1. 12m 14 Ascend the buttress easily, keeping within 2 metres of the left arete, to a large ledge. Tree root belay.

2. 25m 16 Three metres left of the corner recess is a crack. Gain the crack, ascend it (crux), until it is possible to step right onto a ledge. From the right-hand end of the ledge, ascend the slab heading rightwards to a substantial tree. Pass a second tree, to gain the ledge above.

Note:

The rock is magnificent, and the protection good.

This route takes the deep right leaning crack 2m upstream of the start of THE GOLDEN GATE, ascends this to the large ledge and finishes up the obvious crack directly above – cairn.

1. 20m 16 Start the crack with difficulty. Climb the deep groove until forced left, then ascend the juggy face to reach the large ledge above.

2. 20m 15 Move up the blocks to reach the crack immediately above. Climb the face left of the crack using the crack for protection. Move slightly right to reach the comfortable stance on top.

Note:

Good climbing on excellent rock.

The route ascends the Gatepost Buttress at the lower end of the kloof and immediately above the lower campsite. Scramble up from the downstream side to a ledge under the buttress. Start below a thin black crack 3m right of the blunt undercut arete.

1. 15m 13 Ascend diagonally left to the arete and up this then diagonally left to belay below the chimney.

2. 10m 15 Make an awkward initial move up the chimney then continue up to a tree belay on the right.

3. 15m 10 Move 5m right and up a curving crack then across left on good holds to finish.

Variations:

1a ?m 17 Start 3m left of the blunt arete and ascend a slanting crack to gain the arete. 1b ?m 15 Start 5m left of the blunt arete and ascend the corner for 5m then right and up to the arete.

Note:

Below the Gatepost Buttress on the left is a small buttress providing many 30m problems of varying difficulty.

The route takes the line up the middle of the buttress known as THE GOLDEN GATE at the bottom campsite. THE GOLDEN GATE is the large orange rock buttress visible from the road.

1. 35m 20 Start 2m to the right of corner on the northern aspect of the buttress. A difficult move up and then more easily to a large ledge. Above is another break. Do an awkward move up and then move diagonally up right to jumbo ledge. Climb the obvious slanting crack 2m right of the wriggle chimney and move right before the next huge ledge.

Note:

The last pitch is common with that of THE GOLDEN GATE.

Located at head of kloof, 20m upstream of PINNACLE NORTH. (There is a similar leaning pinnacle against the face). Climb and scramble 30m to base of crack on right hand side of pinnacle.

1. 30m 11 In crack to top of pinnacle.

2. 10m 19 Ascend the bulging face above the pinnacle. The crux is the first 3m. Thereafter ascend an easy sloping ramp.

Variation:

The 19 move can be bypassed by a semi-hand traverse left into a corner (13). Continue left onto ledge and ascend flake 5m further left.

Start directly below prominent pinnacle near descent gully.

1. 20m 17 Ascend strenuous handjam crack to ceiling. Move out to right 2m and up 4m to top of gendarme.

2. 10m 15 Move right 3m into chimney, between gendarme and face and climb chimney 6m to top of pinnacle. Alternatively move diagonally left and ascend easy face. Step across to main face and ascend thin face to ledge. (Part of this pitch is shared with PINNACLE NORTH).

3. 30m 17 Ascend 7m up thin ridge to sloping platform. Hand-traverse 6m to left and move up to long sloping ramp beneath low ceiling. Ascend ramp and continue past large chockstone to the summit. Alternatively, traverse left 10m to corner and climb strenuous chimney to gain the ramp.

Note:

This climb is strenuous, having probably the longest hand-traverse in the Magaliesberg. Protection is good.

Variation:

For a direct finish, from halfway along the big hand-traverse, ascend direct to top (20). 1985 G. Mallory.

Located near the head of the kloof at a split red buttress opposite a tree with 50cm diameter trunk growing off opposite (right) face of the kloof at a height of 3m. Scramble to wide ledge 10m up.

1. 30m 11 Climb in crack formed by a pinnacle leaning against the face to top of pinnacle. Near top move out left and ascend outside of pinnacle to top.

2. 6m 15 Up directly from pinnacle. Crux is first 2m. Variation: (10) Traverse left then up a gully or crack to same stance.

3. 10m 13 Traverse right into recess with two cracks at back. Left hand crack is the steeper (13). Right hand crack is easier (10).

The climb starts on the face immediately downstream of PINNACLE NORTH, avoids a fierce-looking jam crack and ends up a steep open book cum chimney.

1. 25m 15 Climb the steep face 2m right of the corner which is the start of PINNACLE NORTH. Just below a small roof with a jam crack running through it, traverse left on to the route of PINNACLE NORTH. Climb up till it is possible to traverse back right above the jam crack to a good ledge at the bottom of a big open book-cum-chimney.

2. 18m 13 Climb the chimney to the top and move out to the right. Scramble to the top.

Variation on pitch 2

Situated 3m right of PINNACLE NORTH. Start by scrambling up 4m, at a point as high up the kloof as possible where the upper krantzes lie back in an upper bay. To the right of PINNACLE NORTH is a crack or recess running straight up. (Grey, very rough rock.)

1. 13m 8 Climb 6m up to ledge with big nettle tree. Continue up recess 7m to good tree.

2. 10m 9 Climb up past narrow cubbyhole on awkward holds to big tree.

3. 15m 7 Climb up through hole in roof and scramble to base of next pitch.

4. 10m 8 Climb narrow open book type of chimney, not the easy crack on the left, to good stance. (At this point, climb crosses NETTLE CHIMNEY.)

5. 14m 7 Pass around to the right, under a corner which is of a higher grade, to next recess and climb over chockstones to good tree (10m). Finish by going right again into short chimney to top.

Start higher up the kloof, as for start of PINNACLE NORTH.

1. 25m 7 After scrambling up from the riverbed 10m move right past start of ROUGH ROCK RECESS, which climb is in recess, and climb grey rock to a good tree and up again to big nettle tree, 10m.

2. 20m 7 Traverse to right and climb easy gully, then scramble to large tree set in a corner far back from stream.

3. 30m 7 Climb up for 4m and then move left 3m and climb round big rock blocks and up recess to big stance behind nettle tree.

4. 25m 7 Move to crack as far left as possible and climb easy crack to top.

Climbs a thin crack up a face & past a tree approximately 30-40m upstream of DINKUM DIHEDRAL, between TREMADOC FEVER and NETTLE CHIMNEY.

1. 20m 20 Climb the crack moving leftwards towards the top.

The route takes the groove immediately to the left of DINKUM DIHEDRAL. Scramble up onto the ledge 20m above stream bed. Start 4m left of the start of DINKUM DIHEDRAL, behind a stamvrug tree.

1. 25m 17 Ascend diagonally right from behind the tree to gain the ledge below the dihedral taken by DINKUM DIHEDRAL. Step up and left to gain the groove and follow this to below a V-notch in a small roof. Pull through the notch and belay on nettle tree stance.

2. 8m 19 Jam up the righthand crack, with difficulty near its top, until able to gain the loose-looking block in the off-width on the left. Follow the off-width rightwards to the top.

Note:

Pitch 2 offers contrived but excellent climbing. The whole route is on clean rock.

Scramble up to the ledge 20m above stream bed from where the crux pitch of DINKUM DIHEDRAL starts.

1. 15m 19 Climb the arete 3m to the left of DINKUM DIHEDRAL, finishing through a gap in the roof and belay by a tree on the ledge. Protection is a little sparse but placing side runners will downgrade this route!

Finish up DINKUM DIHEDRAL or abseil off.

About 40m upstream of STRAIGHT EDGE on true left of kloof, the kloof steps back to form a bushy and tree filled ledge about 20m above stream bed. Scramble up onto this and to its back.

1. 12m 15 Climb a recess on rough rock to a chockstone which blocks it at the top. Move out left past it onto a small ledge.

2. 18m 19 On the right hand side of the ledge, there is a spectacular upstream facing open book with a crack in its centre. After a tricky take-off move, climb the open book. Continue up on good jams and finger-locks to a small ledge 1m under the triangular roof. There is an optional step left onto face about 5m up. Fist-jam through the horizontal crack in the roof to a resting place on the arete. Move up and left to a belay ledge with a nettle tree. (Note: This pitch offers superbly protected and sustained climbing.)

3. 10m 17 From the ledge, two cracks can be seen. Climb the right hand jam crack till it is possible to step left 2m into the off-width crack in the corner. Climb this and the hidden crack on right hand face to the top.

Start at break 6m right of DINKUM DIHEDRAL. Climb the crack (which becomes off-width) exiting right at large ledge.

1. 20m 17 Climb the red face to the base of the fine looking jam crack, climb this to tree belay.

Start on bushy ledge where the crux pitch of Dinkum Dihedral starts. 15m right of Shadowplay is a dihedral with a large capping roof.

1. 28m Climb up open book up to roof. Traverse out under roof and go out under roof on the left. Climb to top.

Start on grey face covered by tree roots opposite VARIETY.

1. 30m 7 Traverse right past a sharp ridge to large ledge with trees.

2. 15m 7 Climb straight up in corner on clean rock to tree and move to right onto large rock ledge with adequate block belay.

3. 15m 10 Move left from ledge and climb chimney above tree to top. Strenuous past overhanging section.

Variation:

1. 25m 7 Start as for NETTLE CHIMNEY up to the large ledge. Now, move left on large ledge for 40m to the third recess.

2. 20m 17 Make a difficult take-off on left side of recess. Move to right after 5m to sloping rib.

The start is about 20m upstream of STRAIGHT EDGE on the opposite (left) side of the kloof. To the left is a grey face festooned with roots. Take off from a ledge a little way up the face.

1. 18m 10 Ascend to a large ledge.

2. 25m 16 Continue to top up steep recess or crack on reddish rock (on right is a sharp ridge).

The climb starts only a metre or so to the right of YORKSHIRE, i.e. directly opposite SKELETON GULLY.

1. 33m 17 Ascend thin handjam crack to ledge (12m). Traverse 5m to the right on ledge, then ascend strenuous handjam crack 12m to ledge.

2. 35m 15 Traverse diagonally 3m under righthand side of nose then up 3m and traverse back 3m and up 3m onto nose. Continue up ridge to cubbyhole.

3. 14m 15 Move up to right out of cubbyhole and make awkward move up to diagonal crack with creeper. Climb crack 4m then move left onto ridge and continue to summit.

About 10m upstream from BORED GAMES (i.e. just left of the recess).

1. 30m 19 Climb the overhanging jam-crack to broken ground. The first 10m are really good, and steep.

Climbs the arête and face past 2 bolts immediately left of PANGAMAN VIBRATION.

1. 20m 23 Climb arête and face past 2 bolts. Start directly beneath the arete. A very old and manky piton protects the first hard moves - rather get some gear up and right on PANGAMAN VIBRATION. The bolts are also manky. A contrived route.

Takes the obvious corner just left of EGOWHIP.

1. 20m 19 Climb the corner/recess directly.

Climbs a very narrow dihedral running up the right wall of the prominent corner between DEE CRACK and BORED GAMES. (Right of PANGAMAN VIBRATION.)

1. 20m 23 Scramble onto a ledge (peg) and pull-up into the base of the dihedral. Climb up to the top of the dihedral, exit right, and continue up on sparse holds to easy ground and a large tree.

Note:

A bolt protects the crux.

A clean hard pitch, similar to SCHWEESICLES. The line followed is a crack on the opposite side of the kloof and 5m upstream from STRAIGHT EDGE.

1. 40m 22 From stream bed gain a large handhold on the left. Pull up into the recess, pass a dying tree to the right and continue up the crack right up to the large ledge.

The obvious thin crack up the face about 2m right of BORED GAMES.

1. 10m 25 Climb the crack to a gnarled tree. Either abseil back down or continue up easy rock to the top.

The climb goes up the slight buttress and shallow recess above, which lies between BORED GAMES and CEE CRACK. Start at the top of the large boulder alongside the face.

1. 30m 20 It is advisable to protect the first 10m of the climb by placing a sling high up in the tree leaning across the kloof from just downstream of the apex of the block above. Layback very strenuously up a thin crack to get your hands onto the ledge above. Get onto this ledge by traversing left strenuously to a better handrail and then swinging the feet up. Traverse delicately back right in a very off-balance position to where a handhold can be reached allowing one to step right into a small bottomless recess and up to a resting place on a ledge above (place for a small stance). Climb the shallow recess above to the large ledge above. Halfway up is a difficult move (19) involving a brief move onto the left arete. (In the opening ascent, the leader held onto a nut to swing onto the left arete which reduced the grade to 17.)

2. 20m 15 Walk about 5m right and climb the face and pillar above just to the right of the prominent arete. Continue up on the right hand side of the arete, finishing up with a strenuous move (15) near the top.

Climbs the face and arête past some bolts immediately left of CEE CRACK.

1. 20m 25 Climb face and arête past some bolts.

The downstream facing corner crack between JELLY BEANS and BORED GAMES opposite STRAIGHT EDGE.

1. 30m 17 Climb jam-crack with an awkward move just above the cubbyhole to broken ground.

Start 5m downstream from Straight Edge on the true left of the kloof just upstream of a small cave (Schweesicles). Start at the base of a triangular slab below an obvious downstream facing dihedral with a smooth face on the right.

1. 25m (16) Scramble up triangular slab to top of triangle (rusty piton here). Jam up crack with difficulty for about 3m until your feet are on the good rail. Step left and around the corner onto a wide ledge. Just around the corner is a wide crack, climb this to an extensive grassy ledge. Walk 5m left to a large tree on wide flattish rock ledge.

2. 18m (13) Climb grey and orange slab directly behind tree to top.

Start as for JELLY BEANS.

1. 23m 18 Climb up slightly sloping face for about 8m (13) to apex of triangle and fixed piton. Jam up crack in open book for about 3m until feet are at level of good thin crack on right face (17). Instead of stepping across to top ledge on left (as for JELLY BEANS), continue straight up open book on good jam holds to the small obvious roof (17). Pull through roof to stance (18).

Between JELLYBEANS and SCHWEESICLES on the same side of the kloof. Start as for JELLY BEANS.

1. 25m 22 Up crack until handrail is reached. Right along rail to arete. Step up and continue up corner until next rail. Back left to finger crack. Up crack to top.

Start at small deep cave opposite big tree 8m below Straight Edge Corner.

1. 22m (19) Climb up in cave. Move left under overhang into crack and up to a recess where you can stand. Follow crack to top. At the top make a small detour to the right to avoid plants growing in the crack at the top.

2. 25m (14) Continue directly upwards (2m right of chimney recess with two trees) on coarse grained rock to top. (12m up is a tree).

Climbs the thin crack and continuation corner 2m right of SCHWEESICLES and NAUGHTY MONKEY takes the left-facing open book 1m further right.

1. 20m 21 Climb the thin crack, past a roof on the right, to reach a ledge. Continue up the blank looking open book above, and exit right onto easier ground. Note: No use is made of any tree.

Start about 3m to the right of SCHWEESICLES at the base of a tree. Same start as for SHADOW OF DOUBT.

1. 20m 19 Climb into the right hand of the two cracks and into a shallow corner higher up. Pull over two bulges and up onto a ledge.

2. 15m 19 Move up the rippled corner directly above until able to move left onto the arete about halfway up. Continue up to the top.

Starts 2m left of lone tree on embayment - see SATYRIASIS STRUT and OEDIPUS WRECKS.

1. 20m 17 Climbs broken corner crack system at left end of embayment.

First pitch takes face left of SATYRIASIS STRUT.

1. 10m 21 Start 2m right of the lone tree on the embayment ledge. Climb thin seam past one rail and at next rail step left (no naughty stepping right to tree), and then climb face in the line of the very thin seam to large ledge.

2. 10m 19 Climb the poorly protected, slim, open groove.

Between NAUGHTY MONKEY and NOTHING VENTURED NOTHING GAINED is an embayment with large ledge (which is scrambled up to).

1. 20m 18 Climb obvious jam crack at right hand end of bay to ledge with tree. Step left and climb the cracked slabby face (crux).

Situated in a broad recess shaped like an "A" with the top triangle removed. Its right hand retaining wall is a smooth grey face which is undercut at its outer edge. Start 20m downstream of STRAIGHT EDGE on the opposite side of the kloof.

1. 20m 19,A1 Commence in the left of the recess. Move up the small recess for 1,5m and traverse right via a hand and foot rail to another recess formed by the wall and the right hand slabbed wall (5m 17). Ascend recess partially for 3m and move out left onto the face. Continue up to a ledge 2m up (3m 17). Move across right retaining wall (2 pitons, A1). Continue a further 2m on small finger holds to the corner and around to a ledge (19). Continue up a recess and a small chimney to a broad ledge (8m 15).

2. 30m 7 Scramble to top.

Note:

Pitch 1 is sustained but well protected.

Variation:

The 19,A1 traverse may be avoided by a spectacular hand-traverse on the foot rail.