Routes as trad in Hellfire Buttress

Fantastic climbing for the grade

1. 17 25m

   Start 3/4m left of the acute corner, climb the slab past the lose/ keyed block. Above and left is a diagonal break/ crack. Climb through this then easy scrambling over large blocks to Stance at the base of a prominent lay-back crack/ corner.

2. 18 18m

   Climb the crack/ corner then easier ground to access a vegetated slope. There is a massive block to your right, behind this is an abseil point.

From the Burnout Wall walk through some shrubs and trees towards the scree belt. Reconnect with the vined wall. The route starts on the left-hand side in an acute corner. Climb up towards the protruding blocks to top out on Lucifers Ledge.

Access the Lucifer Ledge. Start on the left-hand side of the Burnout Wall. Climb the corner passing a bush to the roof. Exit left to access the face and go directly up overhanging terrain and up to a bottomed (small ledge 0.5X 0.5m) left-facing corner at the very top. Veering left drops the grade and the quality of the route dramatically.

I strongly recommend breaking this route in 2 pitches. The crux is a 23 traverse that is very far away from the anchor which leaves the second in a terrifying situation of rope pulling you in the wrong direction while performing the crux. Amazing route though. Traverses, cracks, roofs and vertical technical climb on the same route! Lots of fun! The crux is protected by bolts.

Start up the left crack/seam

Start up the 2nd last crack/seam. Below and slightly right of the diving board.

Step thru the tree and onto the ledge that houses the corner crack. You might want to rope up for this. Step out left onto the Arête and climb up to the roof. Clip the bolt and move right onto the Arête, CLimb up to the top. A ring bolt awaits.

Step thru the tree and onto the ledge that houses the corner crack. You might want to rope up for this. Climb the corner to the roof. Rail left for 3 m, pull into the bushy crack and up to finish. There is a belay bolt at the top.

Step thru the tree and onto the ledge that houses the corner crack. You might want to rope up for this. Climb the corner to the roof. Clip the bolt and pull thru onto the face. Follow the thinner right-hand crack to finish just right of the block. The top is technical and on small gear, your belayer can't see you. There is a belay bolt at the top.