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Routes as sport in Dalpura Wall

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Showing all 5 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 M1 I Scream and Grapple Sky
1 23 35m
2 23 45m
3 27 32m
4 20 13m

Four varied pitches - and one stopper move on pitch three which has yet to be climbed free.

Start: Rap in from sling around bollard above 'End of Days'. All raps are diagonally rightwards (looking in), and will require some "redirection" to reach the start of the route. Best to fix 100m rope, and redirect it through several bolts to ensure you don't end up stranded in space, to the belay at the end of Pitch 1. From here, rap 30m on the lead rope to the left edge of the starting ledge (keep up a swing to ensure you land on the ledge!).

Alternatively use double ropes and rap down 35m, 15m, 40m, 30m.

It is highly recommended that you bring Cams #0.4 - #1 for the starting crack (and belay), as the first bolt is REALLY high.

  1. 35m (23) Long and sustained face climbing. Easy sandy corner crack to roof, undercling left and across face which thins alarmingly near the end.

  2. 45m (23) Long and exposed fused flake just right of arete to top of pillar. Up and left across short orange face to shale break. Past this on jugs to belay in slabby corner stance at triple bolt belay. Sustained!

  3. 32m (23M1 or 27) Yet to be led clean. Pull on crux bolt (tricky to clip!) to knock this pitch down from grade 27 to grade 23. Left onto arete then left again to short juggy face. Thin moves to horizontal, left along this to reachy move over rooflet (glued-up hold). Up very exposed left facing corner to juggy finish and comfy bivi ledge under huge roof.

  4. 13m (20) Short, steep and exposed. Up and left on ironstone jugs to hit roof at mossy crack. Jugs to top. Double ring belay.

FA: Neil Monteith, Jesse Lomas (P1, P2 & P3), 31 Oct 2008

FA: Neil Monteith & Jesse Lomas (P4), 31 Dec 2008

Sport 130m, 4
27 Jocation

A big arete.

Start: Locate the top of the Lost Pillar. Scramble down and abseil off 3BB below cairn 10m west of Lost Pillar. Take about 16 bolt plates and 2 ropes, rap down 50m and pull ropes, rap bottom pitch on single fixed to vegetated ledge about 15m from the ground.

  1. 50m (27) Rounded arete past bolts to ledge, 2nd bolt needs a sling to ease clip-fear.

  2. 50m (18) Loose arete past bolts. Mike thought this was going to be grade 8 when he bolted it.

FA: FA: Mikl Law, Fronkie Huster & Ness Peterson, 2000

FFA: Mikl & Ness, 2002

Sport 100m, 2
19 M1 Welsh Dragon
1 20m
2 16 15m
3 18 25m
4 19 28m

Face climbing up large black wall opposite the Lost Pillar. Bolted with spaced glue-in carrots - you will need at least 11 bolt plates. Total shade until very late in the day.

From Dalpura Head, locate 2 x Ringbolts on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate this!). It's 120m abseil straight down the wall (joining ropes is an option), or you can do 2 x 50m abseils by swinging left (looking in) and re-belaying at an interim set of rap anchors (at almost the same height as the summit of the Pillar). Rap straight down the notch between the pillar and the Main Wall and scramble up the gully to the start of the route.

  1. 20m (M1) Ring-bolt aid ladder from notch between Lost Pillar and main wall and up to ledge. Scramble carefully right along ledge to DBB.

  2. 15m (16) Delicate moves on a rising traverse right past four BR to triple bolt belay. Good warm up for next pitch.

  3. 25m (18) Great pitch through some scary bits. Dangerous runout to the 1st and 2nd BR. 6 BRs in total and a #3 camalot could be helpful to calm the nerves. Finish by picking your way through 1 foot shale ledge to bushes and DBB.

  4. 28m (19) Great exposure and positions up the vertical wall on many good and not-so good holds. Belay at initial rap point. 11 BRs.

FA: Tony Williams, Nora Adam & Josh Dodson (P2-4), 2003

FA: Tony Williams (P1), 2006

Sport 88m, 4
23 The Opposition

Gripping arete which offers a good three pitch escape when finished with the Lost Pillar. This is technically a sport route, but there are some runouts (especially off the belays) and chossy rock in sections which means you want to be solid at this grade to attempt this route. The one repeat of this route has also suggested an upgrade to grade 24. This route gets sun after 1pm so slip, slop and slap. 14 draws and 8 brackets.

Start: First major arete 50m to right (north) of the Lost Pillar and 5m left of Crankenstien. To get to the start either rap down 'Welsh Dragon' and trash through the thick bush or rap direct down the route. The top of the climb is at the bottom of a major gully 50m right of the double bolts above 'Welsh Dragon'. There is a set of double BRs on a ledge at the top, rig a couple of slings and rap into the unknown.

  1. 15m (22) From tiny ledge with no anchors climb leftwards to high first ubolt (try and stick-clip this with a 5m stick so you don't die) then left again to arete. Ponder the lack of holds, find a solution and scuttle up to belay below steep orange arete.

  2. 40m (23) Steeply up right side of arete with a few long moves. Cross a minor choss band then continue up the ladder of jugs. Finish with a few techy crimp moves on the left then right side of arete.

  3. 40m (18) Jugs to big break, over this then up techy black arete on little ironstone edges. Ramble up ledgy stuff to finish. Bolt plates needed for this pitch. Belay off double BRs.

FFA: Neil Monteith (all leads) & Ben Van Balen, 28 Feb 2009

Sport 95m, 3
25 Crankenstein
1 25 35m
2 24 40m
3 24 35m

Classic big sport cranker. This route is bolted with old-school bash-in carrots. Take care and bring plenty of bolt plates.

Start: Down to gully and out left. Locate lunch cave and scramble down to the R (facing out) to ledge and DBB (this is the 3rd belay).

  1. 35m (25) Up leaning L side of arete until obvious move around to R side. Up to small footledge and semi-hanging DBB. About 11 BRs.

  2. 40m (24) Follow the amazing steep line of scoops for miles until it blanks out on a black wall. Thin moves then up to Balderstone Point and DBB. Scramble up to the other DBB on Balderstone Point.

  3. 35m (24) Out L then crank onto arete (desperate). Up arete which looks easy to top.

FA: Mike Stacey & Steve Moon, 1999

Sport 110m, 3

Showing all 5 routes.