Showing all 5 routes.
|23 M1||★★ I Scream and Grapple Sky
1 23 35m
2 23 45m
3 27 32m
4 20 13m
Four varied pitches - and one stopper move on pitch three which has yet to be climbed free.
Start: Rap in from sling around bollard above 'End of Days'. All raps are diagonally rightwards (looking in), and will require some "redirection" to reach the start of the route. Best to fix 100m rope, and redirect it through several bolts to ensure you don't end up stranded in space, to the belay at the end of Pitch 1. From here, rap 30m on the lead rope to the left edge of the starting ledge (keep up a swing to ensure you land on the ledge!).
Alternatively use double ropes and rap down 35m, 15m, 40m, 30m.
It is highly recommended that you bring Cams #0.4 - #1 for the starting crack (and belay), as the first bolt is REALLY high.
FA: Neil Monteith, Jesse Lomas (P1, P2 & P3), 31 Oct 2008
FA: Neil Monteith & Jesse Lomas (P4), 31 Dec 2008
A big arete.
Start: Locate the top of the Lost Pillar. Scramble down and abseil off 3BB below cairn 10m west of Lost Pillar. Take about 16 bolt plates and 2 ropes, rap down 50m and pull ropes, rap bottom pitch on single fixed to vegetated ledge about 15m from the ground.
FA: FA: Mikl Law, Fronkie Huster & Ness Peterson, 2000
FFA: Mikl & Ness, 2002
|19 M1||★ Welsh Dragon
2 16 15m
3 18 25m
4 19 28m
Face climbing up large black wall opposite the Lost Pillar. Bolted with spaced glue-in carrots - you will need at least 11 bolt plates. Total shade until very late in the day.
From Dalpura Head, locate 2 x Ringbolts on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate this!). It's 120m abseil straight down the wall (joining ropes is an option), or you can do 2 x 50m abseils by swinging left (looking in) and re-belaying at an interim set of rap anchors (at almost the same height as the summit of the Pillar). Rap straight down the notch between the pillar and the Main Wall and scramble up the gully to the start of the route.
FA: Tony Williams, Nora Adam & Josh Dodson (P2-4), 2003
FA: Tony Williams (P1), 2006
|23||★ The Opposition
Gripping arete which offers a good three pitch escape when finished with the Lost Pillar. This is technically a sport route, but there are some runouts (especially off the belays) and chossy rock in sections which means you want to be solid at this grade to attempt this route. The one repeat of this route has also suggested an upgrade to grade 24. This route gets sun after 1pm so slip, slop and slap. 14 draws and 8 brackets.
Start: First major arete 50m to right (north) of the Lost Pillar and 5m left of Crankenstien. To get to the start either rap down 'Welsh Dragon' and trash through the thick bush or rap direct down the route. The top of the climb is at the bottom of a major gully 50m right of the double bolts above 'Welsh Dragon'. There is a set of double BRs on a ledge at the top, rig a couple of slings and rap into the unknown.
FFA: Neil Monteith (all leads) & Ben Van Balen, 28 Feb 2009
1 25 35m
2 24 40m
3 24 35m
Classic big sport cranker. This route is bolted with old-school bash-in carrots. Take care and bring plenty of bolt plates.
Start: Down to gully and out left. Locate lunch cave and scramble down to the R (facing out) to ledge and DBB (this is the 3rd belay).
FA: Mike Stacey & Steve Moon, 1999
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