Routes as trad in Outer Space Buttress

Start: The right most butress. Left hand route.

1. 15m (20) Wall and corner (right of the main vegetated corner). Move left to main corner.

2. 30m (22) Corner, left to ledge.

3. 20m (20) Hard start then the seam. Take RP's!

"Life without meaning".

An old-school outing. Obsessively climbs the arête between Big Red and It Came From Outer Space for the entire length of the buttress, sharing about 20m of climbing with ICFOS.

Can be climbed as anywhere from 1 to 4 pitches, with the First Ascent being climbed as a 15m pitch and a 55m pitch, belayed from the ground the entire time.

1. 15m (21) - Committing. Start up Big Red for a few moves (wires) until you can clip the carrot out right. Traverse hard right across the face to hanging-arête, then up this trending right (to follow the arête) with committing moves above gear to gain carrot, and eventually 2 x carrot bolt belay. (2 x carrots, Wires, BD #0.4, #3, #4).

2. 25m (26) - Up the arête with a very hard start past 2 x U-bolts, then intimidating and sustained climbing directly up the arête on carrots and gear to 3 x carrot bolt belay. Be very careful with how the rope runs on this pitch to avoid wear/cutting. (3 x carrots, 2 x U-Bolts, 2 x BD #0.5, #0.3).

3. 15m (23) - As for It Came From Outer Space: up insecure arête with a rather demanding crux section to 2 x carrot bolt belay. (6 x carrots).

4. 15m (21) - Directly up the arête with a few tricky moves to top-out and belay chain. 3 x carrots, 1 x U-bolt, BD #1).

Amazing, sustained, old-school-demanding mixed climbing up an eye-catching face and arete, with two desperate mantles to make you realise how weak you really are.

Start: 'Small' flake right of undercut arete. 10m right of IMaMfOS.

Recommended rack: 12 bolt plates, small-medium wires, single cams #1 and #2, double cams #0.3, #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #3.

1. 35m (25) 'Flake', mantle, then left above the undercut past 2 carrots. Up to below the footledge. Left to arete and bolt. Up via hellish mantle to another bolt, then face and arete past 4 more carrots and gear to hanging belay on carrots. 8 carrot bolts.

2. 20m (23) Shale ledge to steep arete. To break then left side of arete. Wall and arete to ledge belay. 5 carrot bolts, no supplemental gear.

3. 15m (19) 'Small' bulge on bad rock and flakes right of the belay. Up past 2 carrots and gear, trending left to arete and topout (1 carrot + bollard). 2 carrot bolts.