Routes as trad in Cruit Island

At the seaward end of the inlet is a wide crack just left of the overhang. Climb the arete on its right to the horizontal fault. Hand-traverse back left to a large ledge. Continue up the crack line which gives fine straightforward climbing on jams and jugs to the highest point of the buttress.

Takes the wide crack directly below the upper part of 'Aquamarine'. Wriggle up into this and fight your way to the large horizontal break. Belay on ledge or continue straight up Aquamarine to the top. Check the tide times in advance unless you enjoy climbing in wellies.

Starting on the wee tidal ledge climb smooth arete on right (as for 'Aquamarine') to the horiziontal fault, continue steeply up handcrack/flake to a hand off rest. (thug crux) Continue direct up centre of slabby face through 2 roofs on increasingly difficult rock to top out at centre of slab.(tech crux)

An easier finish to 'Fresh Fruit', from hands off rest trend leftward to join 'Aquamarine' and continue up this route to top.

Yet another alternative finish to 'Fresh Fruit', from hands of rest trend/traverse right to join diagonal fault in center of 'Albatross' face, climb fault with considerable exposure to top. (carefull belay stance position on top required to ensure seconds safety)

Climb the obvious corner crack 4m left of 'Albatross', once under the monster roof swing out left and gain the horror offwidth. Thrutch the offwidth to the summit.

Start at bottom right hand side of the cave below 'Albatross', Climb the obvious diagonal crack leftwards to reach a sloping ledge below a square recess. Hand traverse left to a 2nd recess above the arete. Continue round corner towards ledge and finish straight up as for 'Aquamarine'.

3m left of 'Best Possible Taste', Start at sea level and climb the corner right up to the roof. Undercut hand traverse out to a small nose of rock. Stand on this and hand jam back up the crack to another small recess. Easier climbing to the top.

Start as for 'Best Possible Taste'. When you reach an obvious undercut on the steep left wall make a tricky move left to the base thin crack, then follow it to the top.

The crack line just left of 'Saco'. Go up, and then traverse left to the crack, which is followed to the top.

A deep cut chimney with jammed chock-stone.

Climb the excellent juggy arete to the right of 'Saco'.

Starting 2m right of 'Tom's Dinner', climb the right hand flake crack to a stance below the steep wall, climb the steep wall and continue direct jug hauling up between horizontal breaks and blank rock.

Climb the full crag height fault/crack 4 meters to the right of 'Tom's Dinner'.

A meter to the right of 'The High Tide Alternative' climb the full crag height fault/crack.

2 meters to the right of 'High and Dry' at the top of the steep ramp, climb the full crag height hand crack, direct with and excellent wee crux mid height.

Climb to mid height crux and traverse right along the wee roof. Continue to top up faultline.

As you walk in for 'Saco' et al, on the upper approach, this is the first bit of rock that gains any worthwhile height on the right. With 3 right-to-left trending breaks.

On the sea ward end of this south facing wall climb the obvious crack with a large platform on the right at 1/3 height. Climb this and either continue up the crack (a bit slimy) or climb the flake on the left hand wall and continue up the lichen-covered headwall on the left using the horizontal breaks.

Starts 4m left of 'Captain Birdseyes Reactilites' beneath a rightward trending groove which starts at half height.

Climb the steep lower wall via hidden juggy underclings to start and then reach high for good edge on the right. From here enter the main groove via good sidepulls in the small groove on left. Climb the main /cornergroove for 2m then step left and follow the 2 obvious diagonal cracks leftwards for a satisfying finish.

Climb the first obvious groove and wall above on the right side after you pass the 2 detached blocks. Sustained bouldery moves to start, in the groove either direct or coming in from the right to better handholds in higher diagonal crack. High step to diagonal crack and easier ground. Finish direct up the wall above.

Takes the overhanging arete right of 'Captain Birdseyes Reactilites' to a good hold at the base of the crack mantle this and finish easily up the slab.

On the left as you enter the zawn, climb the huge fallen block leaning against the face and continue up the centre of the slab above.

As for 'Slab Fest' climb the fallen block and follow the left trending groove on the steep wall above.

Climb the fallen block and follow the slopey breaks leading to a right trending crack high on the face. (excellent jug in slot to left just below summit)

At the Northern end of the sea wall, the cliff sweeps inland to form a large sheltered corner, access is by scramble from slightly further North. This route climbs the first steep corner.

The crack between 'Faithless' and 'Kickapoo' climbed using holds on the arête.

Climb the steeper corner immediately to the right of "Faithless". Jug hauling up excellent steep ground.

Climb the obvious corner ramp, up into and through the exit chimney. Much easier than it looks!

Climb the roof crack to the right of "Middle Aged Groper". very strenuous!

Climb the steep cracks immediately to the left of "Magical Mystery Tour".

From the start of the previous 3 Routes, Traverse out seaward along the superb horizontal hand crack and out onto the main seaward wall. Ascend the first and easiest way to the summit on monster jugs and gear up a huge chimney/groove.

From the starting belay at North end of crag, traverse the obvious horizontal break (as for 'Magical Mystery Tour') and continue along break, (foot traverse) out southward along main sea face, finaly ascend the hand crack between 'Magical Mystery Tour' and 'Rain Stopped Play' to the summit.

Rain Stopped Play HS 4B 30m * FA I. Miller, E. Wallace, M. Bonner 16/06/09 From the starting belay at North end of crag, traverse the obvious horizontal break (as for 'Magical Mystery Tour') and continue along break, (foot traverse) out southward along main sea face, finaly ascend the hand crack 2 mtr left of 'Noble Steed' to the summit.

Climb the steep hand crack and groove 2 mtr left/North of 'Good Ship Calabar'.

Abseil to the wee tidal stance at the southern end of the sea wall, immediately before it steps down to the lower platform. From this restricted wee stance climb direct to the summit through the roof on superb rock and holds.

Climb the wide groove 2 metre to the right of 'Good Ship Calabar' to arrive on the stepped down platform. Scramble up excellent rock to the summit.

Approach by abseil. Jam the pleasant fluted cracks two metres right of 'Legavallon Grooves', walk across the huge half crag height platform then climb the middle of the easier wall above via a large tooth.

Approx. 8m to the right of 'Legavallon Grooves', climb the excellent juggy groove.

At the far right of 'Albatross Seawall' the crag turns 90 degrees into 'Albatross Zawn', climb this excellent corner at the junction of the two crags.

Starting from the 'Faithless' & 'Kickapoo' ledge continue to traverse along the central break of the sea face of this wall until forced to ascend onto the summit at the southern end of the crag. (approx 15m beyond 'Legavallon Grooves') With a very distinct crux and it involves a bear hug!

Far West Buttress GR. 728206 200m further west, just left of a cave. Up a rib on the left of the buttress proper. Step awkwardly onto the headwall and on up to the top.

Climb "Splits" to half height, stretch across to main wall on your right to gain a deep right trending crack. Follow the crack steeply to summit.

Climb 'Splits' for a few meters and make an airy wee move rightwards to gain the jugs immediately above the roof below. Traverse right just above the roof on superb rock and jugs. Follow the natural fault line to summit. Excellent exposure!

At the back of the overhung recess, 8 mtr left of the "flop." Climb boldly upto the jammed white bouy to a good ledge. Continue steeply up right following the flakes and jugs to and excellent crux at half hieght to a further smaller ledge. Climb direct to summit on slightly poorer rock.

Flop, then escape left out of the groove into the crack at 3m (crux). Follow the cracks near the arete to the top.

Flop over the chasm guarding the left-hand side of the buttress. Climb the groove, then the rightward-trending crack to the top.

Flop, then traverse high and diagonally right and up until forced to climb straight up (crux) to gain a fault and step right onto the arete. Follow this and the headwall to the top.

Flop, then traverse low and right to gain the foot of a prominent right-facing corner, go up this with increasing difficulty, on the right, to the top.

Same approach as for 'Average Contents'. Traverse in to middle of slab and then proceed up to meet shallow crackline.

Approach the crag from the right, go down a ramp and traverse left to reach a cave low in the centre and belay. Escape dramatically up left over the overhang and then follow the crack directly above.

Escape right of the overhang and follow the overhang to the top slab.

The continuous off-width crack just right of the cave.

The obvious left-curving chimney on the right of the crag.

The arete on the left edge of the buttress.

Approaching the wall from the West, descending a ramp, there are 3 deep clean parallel cracks on the right, two of which reach the top. Choose your route.

At its Western end, the 'Far west Buttress' terminates into a big daddy of a sea cave/tunnel. On the seaward wall of the cave, climb the inverted ridge with considerable atmosphere.

1. 6m From sea level climb the left trending hand crack to the right hand end of a superb non tidal ledge.

2. 4a 25m Traverse out left along the ledge until you are overlooking the void. Circumnavigate the void on jugs and superb rock/gear, keep overlooking the void as you ascend for full effect. A superb pitch.

This route cimbs the right trending chimney in the centre of the face.

1. 6m As for 'Cave Rave'.

2. 15m. At the right hand end of the non tidal ledge, back & foot the right trending chimney until forced into grassy shenanigans at its summit.

From the same ledge at 5m from sea level, (as for 'Cave Rave' & 'Gadaboot Chimney') climb the right trending fault to the right of 'Gadaboot Chimney'.

Starting on the first step at the left end of the crag, climb the vertical crack.

Starting on the ground at the bottom of the first step, clinb the deep vertical crack.

Starting a metre to the right of 'Straight Cut' climb the right trending fault and continue direct up the horizontal breaks.

The deep full crag height crack left of Centre.

Climb the right trending crack immediately right of 'Deep Cut Crack'.

Climb the right trending shallow groove, a metre to the right of 'Exit Stage Right'. The first 5 metres is "protected" by a cluster of small wires and the chance of bouncing off the ground is high in the event of a fall.

Climb the deep black groove 2m left of 'Autumn Groove', at half height pull out left onto the steep face and follow the superb left trending jug crack to the summit.

Climb the deepest, darkest and widest crack/chimney on the crag.

Climb the thin & fingery Quartz vein between the ‘Autumn Groove’ & ‘Seriously Good Craic’ Grooves.

Climb the last wide crack/groove at the right end of the crag.

Climb the arete/corner at the far right end of the crag.

The S shaped fault around the corner and 3m right of the ‘Steady as She Goes’ arete.

On the sea ward facing wall climb the left facing corner direct to the superb central crack high on the wall, climb the crack to summit.

The deep full crag height groove to the right of ‘Laughing Crack’ wall is climbed at Mild Severe.

At the left side of the bulging arete that forms the juncture of the Sea ward and South Facing wall, climb the right trending ramp of immaculate blockiness and up the steep head wall above.

At the end of the sea level platform, make a burly sea level traverse into the steep left facing corner at the sea ward end of the South wall. Climb the steep corner to the platform and up the wall to the summit.

Climb the deep chimney at the land ward end of the south face, pulling out left and follow the left trending crack to the summit.

From the wee non tidal recess climb direct to the summit.

From the wee non tidal sea level recess ascend the right trending fault for a few meters and climb the cracks up the centre of the slab.

From the wee sea level recess climb the edge of the slab with increasing air and interest, crux at very top.

Running behind the steep left wall of this crag is a very deep & thin chasm with a huge chock stone at the top and another below it in the depths. Climb into this chasm from sea level and grunt your way to the lower chock stone, (harder for the chunky) continue more easily to day light.

At the sea ward end of the superb horizontally grooved wall, climb the shallow left facing corner.

Climb the left Arete which makes the left wall of ‘Subterranean Innovation’. Finish by bridging to the chockstone, a direct finish awaits the steely fingered.

The crag is split by a deep chimney with a capping chock stone. Walk into and squirm up into the depth, continue thrutching until daylight.

Climb the superb Arete which makes the right wall of ‘Subterranean Innovation’.

2 metres to the right of the ‘Subteranean Innovation’ chasm, climb the obvious V groove to a good stance and continue direct to top. Strenuous start!

A metre to the left of ‘Howling Chimney’ climb the superb jugs to a small stance and continue direct to top.

Climb the deep full crag height chimney to the left of ‘Deceptively Groovy'.

Climb the Arete on the right side of ‘Howling Chimney'.

At the far right or Southern end of the crag climb the shallow chimney with a tricky exit.

Climb up diagonally L, finishing up just R of a large overhang.

Mid way between ‘The Last Hurrah’ capping roof and the ‘An Graine’ arete, climb the superb hand crack though a mid height roof and direct to top.

From the small ledge climb the arete on the R.

Climb the centre of the black slab 2 metres to the right of the ‘An Graine’ arete.

Climb the groove 2 metres to the right of ‘Black Gold,’ with a cheeky steep crux.

Climb the wide left trending groove up the Arete, 5m right of ‘An Graine’ Arete.

Climb the thinner/steeper left trending hand crack, 3m right of and parallel to ‘Left Hand Path'.

Climb the arete 2nd left from ‘The Vice’ groove, steeper than it looks.

Climb the steep, deep black V Groove. 5m to the right of the ‘Left Hand Path’ arete

The arete 2m R of a wide, broken corner.

Climb the narrow chimney to the right of the ‘Bran’ arete.

Climb the crack 1m right of ‘The Chimney’.