Routes as boulder in Plunkett Conservation Park

Same obvious Start holds as Dawn Caller but head leftish and punch your way through the pockets, spooky top out.

Start on the obvious juggy holds, one move straight up before heading out right into mono territory. very committing line with less than perfect landing bring a couple of pads.

Corey Batten

start two hands on the sloping jug then bust out left before heading back right through pockets and crimps straight up the middle

Sit start on the pocket and high LH crimp. committing top

Could be harder than v3, stick just right of seam

The line following the juggy break in the middle

Squat start in the break on the big rock, and blast up the crimp line over a sketchy landing. At least two attentive spotters required to catch the fall in the space.

Sit start far right under I.V on LH sloping jug and RH small rail. Move across left, on breaks and jugs, aiming for Spacing out. Finish up this.

Harder than it looks. Stick to the scoop/arête on the left side of the boulder.

Crimp line on the right of the boulder. It's punchy.

Start on Sputnik, blasting LH into the first crimp, but then cut right for a big move to a bucket. Trickey mid section gains an easy top out.

Small bloc behind Escape velocity. Sit-start right, on two good holds over lip and very high right foot. Traverse the lip for a series of slopey moves to mantle out about 1/2 metre from the far left of the bloc out.

start left hand on arete with left toe hook, trend rightwards up through jug. tricky mantle

start two hand in jugga. excellent problem with a committing finishing move

Start low on big rail at the back of the boulder, follow the rails and top out on the left

Start right hand side as for pussy direct, but head left along the lip and mantle through the middle.

The easier, less scary and way less cool variant

Super crimper! Start right hand and heel on the sandy flake and left hand on the good crimp. Punch your way up through some bad crimps and spring into a glory jug to finish. Please don’t brush the sandy right start self to much it needs to be sealed. it’s endlessly sandy and with out it the problem may be impossible. Update: An attempt has been made to preserve the flake, as it was crumbling a little more with every attempt.

Corey Batten

Sit start with left hand under cling and right hand low on arete. Right detached boulder is out.

Sit start on two sloping crimps and up to the grassy jug. Immediately traverse left and up from the obvious crimp rail. Bring brushes to assist...

Stand-start this beautiful arete problem. Mantle at the largest point of the boulder and don't escape right to F.U.C.K

Stand Start to the right of C.I.T.C with a choice of good holds. Up you go to a no-fall-zone mantle out.

What goes around, comes back around down this way to- literally this is the down climb for this bloc. The furtherest left line, stand start hands matched on right tending mini corner and straight up the ledges to a easy mantle.

Stand start in front of the wide grass tree in the white rock. RH flat hold and LH in crack pocket- move left and then big move up into black rock. Water your Zen garden moving right to a tall, committing top out- straight up the tallest part of this bloc.

Kiddies problem or the down climb

Stand start with slopey holds and move up.

Start in the deep back left on crimp rail and join on the second hold of made to stray

A yesteryears classic. Sit start towards the centre back of cave with long grey undercling rail. Very cool sequence gains the small right trending corner, tough mantle out

Start on Made to Stray but instead of going straight up bust out left along the obvious crimp rails, head up once the crimps start turning slopey, finishing up on the big round hold over the lip. Keep your feet OFF the cave floor and boulder to the left. Feet above vegetation line. Starting on Pray to Stay is an unsent pumpers dream line

Beta: https://youtu.be/IGYyt1fR_A4

Stand start on the right side of the lip of the cave. Moving up and left for the same mantle finish as MTS.

Start on rail inside left side of the cave and bust out to top of “Made to Stray”.

Left side easy wall out.

Left side of the cave, punching out

Start on the left inside rail as for Easily Amoose'd and staying on the outside rails join into I Oink, Therefore I Ham

The insane, thin, finger crack that splits the whole cave in half, straight down the middle. Sit start the start of the crack at the very back of the cave and figure out the insanity. Very possible

Best line in the cave. Sit start middle back of cave on big undercling flake. Big move followed by tension induced climbing to a contrived lip escape. Gain the lip and move left and then straight up the middle of the face out.

Same sit start as I.O.T.I.H , lurching out of the cave on the right side. At the contrived lip encounter, traverse hard left along the whole lip of the cave on slopes and jugs to finish up the far left side mantling out. Watch the terrifying fall on the cut down tree stump.

Same as Oink, at the lip encounter, move lookers right up the flake and out. Grade needs confirming- could be a 7.

To the right of the cave the big bulge on the silver wall. Crouch start in horizontal break and pull hard on crimps upwards to a easier finish

Right of Pigs Dinner. Start left of the bush in the middle of the rock. Use the crack where the bush is to pull up to a nice jug 3/4 way up the slab. Top out for send

Right side of the bush from Get Ya Hands Dirty. Straight up the slab behind the tree in the photo. Nice pinchy holds told to the top. Top out for send. Leonardo was the name we gave to the goana on the tree in the topo photo.

Straight rail ladder, lunge for the top. Has been done before, let someone know if it was you!

Sit start low right end of the wall, foot on the stub underneath start hold. Trend up and left using any holds including lip. Reach the zenith just before the mid crack feature of the wall and top out here.

Sit start on lowest rail, head straight up for a not so easy mantle. Lower rock stub is out.

Up the hill, 10m right of Following Leonardo. SS on the slab. Nice leaning line up to the top of the rock. top out for send

Start as for Spider Pig, but stay low and continue right along the lip. Top out round the bend.

Up 20ms above LPC sits this little roof Bloc. Sit start in the cobble rock left and blast out of the roof on jugs to a mantle right.

Left version of Spider Pig

Amoozing without the overhang start. Climb up the slab. Put your mat on the rock behind you

start right heel on the sloppers, hands on to crips. travers left along the front of the boulder on sloppy crips, till you get to the corner, keep traversing till you get one hand on the amazing pinch on the end of the boulder then mantle up. trying not to dab on the rock under the lip

Sit start back to wall. RH arete and Lh on crimp rail, pull up into bat hang and mantle. Lower boulder is out!

Sit start on sloppers and good right heel traversing along the boulder till you reach the half way point, nice crip ladder to finish off the climb and mantle out.

Sit start as for free Cashews, traversing along the whole way of the boulder till you reach the end and cant continue. nice mantle finish.

Stand start left hand side pull right hand slopey edge, climbs straight up

Stand start on the crimpy flake and blast straight up making your way to the crimp rail about halfway up. Staying about 1.5m left to the hueco gain a near vertical crimp rail that flattens out on your way to the top.

Left hand sidepull flake right hand sloper, climbs up and slightly veers left out of hueco

Stand start on obvious holds climb up and right to join onto 'out on bail'

Sit start on obvious jugs in the scoop and climb straight up

Same start as 'out on bail' head up and traverse through the centre of 'the vault' to link up and finish at 'criminals ladder'

Start on lower left arete. Move right and up to crimp rail, gain some high feet and go out for the sloper or the crimps above (if you have the reach). Move to the crimp rail up and left of hueco and mantle top

Start on low right, sharp jug and left on crimp pocket with a high right heel/ heel-toe cam. Use the right jug or go straight up for the sloper, than into horizontal crack. Head up using the right vertical crimp rail and crimps on left, mantle top

Located about 10m from insecurity boulder, start holding a small crimp and jug, reach up and use a small but surprisingly strong nub/pinch, work way up to top using jug and crack (first time uploading climb, any advice appreciated)

Crouch start LH side pull slopey pocket RH on obvious jug, decent moves on jugs veering right then back left to mantle avoiding vegetation.

Spoiler alert. Beta video link https://youtu.be/GGp3aZ91lic

Crouch start right hand good pinch left hand higher crimp using good feet underneath face. Moving slightly left to establish for powerful moves directly up through odd crimps, slopey break, dish crimps and devil horn jugs to the very pinnacle of the boulder resting above, ascending with highly immoral behaviour.

Spoiler alert Beta video of first ascent for those that want the assistance. Good way to see starting position. https://youtu.be/I0RGlU686WA

Stand start and obvious right hand jug into chicken winging off-width Boulder problem in between the two boulders

Straight up through cuboid feature.

sit start on rock with right hand on ledge under roof, left hand on crimp on face, climb straight up to hueco to top out

Start on obvious flake feet on slab, move hands to slopers and head straight up on the left hand side of the green streak

Same start as 'Embrace the Insecurity' move through the roof on jugs and head straight up the right side of the arete

Stand start on obvious jug horn and climb directly up and mantle over the overhanging rock

Stand Start left hand low in pebbly dish face side of arete right hand high in pockety edge right side of arete. Boulder to the right is out. Climb straight up.

Bear hug start on bottom bulge good crimps. Up over bulge, veer right first then straight up.

Standing at the base of the slab left hand good edge hop up right hand good edge to start. Ascend slab on good holds to roof. Find courage as you establish a high right heel-hook then mantle over lip. Very exposed top out.

Same start as 'Some Have It' but instead of mantling over the roof traverse right out on good holds to top out

Start standing in back of cave, through undercling, out to big jug, and up.

Start hands matched on the rail, feed find a good heal hook near hands, bust out left to good edge and travers left along lip, keeping feet above the seem of the rock till you get to the white hold and bust up with a tricky mantle straight up to finish

start in the centre of the wall on the lowest part on the black hand holds feed off the ground super bunched, hold body tension and reach out hand to gain the edge of the lip, mantle straight up

start on the good edge, same start as Flakosaurus V3, pump straight up and mantle out most direct way

Start hands matched on the rail, as for Flakosaurus V3 feed find a good heal hook near hands, bust out left to good edge and travers left along lip, keeping feet above the seem of the rock till you get to the white hold to finish no mantle required

Sit start with hands on the lowest holds either side of arete and feet pressed on block underneath. Stay on arete line for glory.

Stand start goes at about V2

Start Matched on the crimpy flat hold on the bottom left of the boulder near the detached rock (watch your head) stay along the arete and finish on the top jug rail before mantleing over.

There may be another line possible that mantles earlier. but for Hammer Head climb all the out right.

Beta for clarity: https://youtu.be/BNXb8dtM5IQ

Start matched in obvious crack on left side of the boulder, bust straight up to top out on jugs

Note - There is a low flake to the right that could be used as a start, but it doesn’t add to the difficulty or aesthetic of the line, and could easily rip off with too much use

Climb the long crack furtherst to the left of the wall. Hope you can hand jam! The Goliath boulder is out -- only pure crack climbing here.

Start any way you can at the two broken flakes stacked on one another. Get to a nice R crimp then pocket jug, and mantle up. Start move would make the climb a classic if it wasn't so chossy... the upper R flake flexes so be careful not to yank it off.

Start at arete, on obvious big jug side pull. up arete and top out.

Left line.

Link up the wall with some good ol Squirmin’. Sit start A.P and move right across on an assortment of crimps to finish up R.F.R, with the very nice slab finish. Worth doing

Sit Start on huge gaping underclings throw up for crimps, tricky slab-tastic top out

Sit-start straight up the crack to finish on the ledge.

Stand start balancing on big footer left side. A hard series of crimpy and technical slabbing up the bomber orange wall finishing on the juggy mid way break. Don’t use your feet properly and say goodbye. It is to go with out saying all holds on the V4 right and the easy crack left are out.

Classic Slabbin! Start right hand on the right ledge just as the orange rock turns to rooflet. Head up leftwards with under-clings and finish on jugs.