Showing all 88 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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South End | |||||
V2 | Get 'Er Done!
The name of the route must always be said in a loud raspy southern American accent. Sit start in small cave; right-hand crimp and left-hand gaston start. Go directly up and end on the obvious jug, L of flake. Optional heel hook to get out of the cave FA: Chris Urbanek, Nat Colville & Douglas Robb, 17 Jul 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | Give 'Er a Crack!
Sit start lay back and follow the obvious crack all the way up to the rail. FA: Chris Urbanek, Nat Colville & Douglas Robb, 17 Jul 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Cannon Ballin'
Start 1m L of Poseidon, on the obvious 'shield'. Compression start, (crux) then straight up and top out. FFA: Tom Reid, 2014 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Poseidon
Start 2m L of The Jackdaw. Sit start in obvious crack feature on good holds. Follow crack line up and R to top out FFA: Tom Reid, 2014 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ The Claw
Start as for Poseidon, but traverse low and R straight away into The Jackdaw and finish up this. Really good climbing, currently the 'Crag Classic'. FFA: Tom Reid, 2014 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ The Jackdaw
Start 1m L of Gone Fishing . Sit start on big undercling and R sidepull move up and R to a gaston, then up and L to jug, then up to top out. FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Gone Fishing
Start 2m L of Walk the plank. Sit start with a good L hand jamb/side pull. Up and R, then straight up on jugs. Top out. FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Walk the Plank
Start 1.5m R of Shipwrecked. Sit start on low jug, move up trending slightly L, then back R and up. top out. FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Shipwrecked
Start 3.5m L of HLS. Sit start really low on the jug in the void with a sandy bottom. move up to small holds, then traverse R and up following the weakness, then over grey bulge. Top out. Set: Tom Reid, 2014 FFA: Tom Reid, 2014 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ The Black Pearl
Links Shipwrecked into HLS. Start as for Shipwrecked, but instead of finishing up the grey bulge, keep traversing R on slopers into HLS and finish up this. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Hookers, Lines and Sphincters
Start 1.5m L of Red Emperor. Sit Start low on side pulls at the bottom of the obvious feature. move up, then R onto face, up to jugs and mantle to small ledge. Highball open project. FFA: Tom Reid, 2014 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★★ The Golden Hour
Blank line Between Hookers lines and sphincter and Red Emperor. Stand start with R hand on undercling as for Red Emperor and Left in Slot-like pocket using lots of toe hooks to reach two finger pocket and dyno to mantle out. SDS yet to go, open project. FA: Tristen Meacham-Day, 5 Jun 2015 | 2m | |||
V8/9 | ★★★ Solid Gold
Gold Coasts hardest open project boulder problem that exists so far. The sit start to “The Golden Hour”. Adds a number of extremely difficult long moves. The top out is v4- do it for the full tick. | ||||
V2 | ★★ Red Emperor
On the RHS of obvious smooth red and orange panel. sit start low on underclings, move R out to rail, up to jugs and mantle. Highball top out open project. FFA: Tom Reid, 2014 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Fishermans Friend
Start 3m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on jug to the R, up to tricky rail, move left, then straight up and out on jugs. Highball top out open project. FFA: Tom Reid, 2014 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Castaway Crack
Start 1.5m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on Jug, move up and L to sharp pocket, then straight up following the crackline with some interesting holds. FFA: Tom Reid, 2014 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Sloth
left heel hook start on awesome jugs, heel hook all the way. follow the line. Top out at the very end of the flake. FA: Matt Hutton, 1990 | 5m | |||
V0 | The warm up traverse
long traverse to the right FA: Matt Hutton, 1990 | 6m | |||
V0 | ★★ Sandbag The Sandbagger
Sit- Start on jug flake LH and RH with a heel cranked up. Rock on and ascend! Nice sandy landing. FA: Jimmy Blackhall & La Noodle, Sep 2019 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Love at First Sight
Start on RH sharp under cling and LH three finger pocket, heel hook on lip and right foot under. Heel hook and slap along the lip and watch the dab! Set: Will Lee, 2015 FA: Will Lee, 23 Sep 2015 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Isha
Sit start, traverse left, Set: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Aug 2015 FA: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Aug 2015 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★★ To love
Crouch start on two jugs and make a very long move up into a blind pocket. Figure out a way to burl the top. A crag classic Set: Yulid Shorrock, 10 Sep 2015 FA: Will Lee, 23 Sep 2015 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Tefillah
Crouch start low and do a long move up into a small jug then straight up. Set: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Aug 2015 FA: WSD, 24 Aug 2015 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Tehilla
Crouch start the obvious jugs and traverse left. Climb the blunt arete. Set: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Aug 2015 FA: WSD, 24 Aug 2015 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★★ El-Olam
left heel hook start,look at photo and follow the line! Set: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Aug 2015 FA: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Aug 2015 | 5m | |||
V0 | ★ Fish Bait Alt.
Sit start on small crimps then work left onto the large crack. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ South Easterlies
Traverse from Left side to highest point on the Right. Start sit started on a shelf. Probably the best problem here. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jan 2020 | ||||
V0 | ★★ Port
Far left problem. Start on two flat shelve jugs sit started. Up to a funky pocket jug and ascend. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jan 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ It’s Easier To Go Down, Then Up
Second line from the left. Sit start on very cool telephone jug. Long move RH to side pull (in the crack) and straight up for jugs. Brush the top on inspection first. Walk off descent. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jan 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ DHL
Middle problem - Left of PAQ. This one has a little more thinking involved. Start sit-started and power up. The crack on the Left is out. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jan 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Peace and Quiet
Tallest line on the boulder, 2nd from the right. Start at the bottom of a little pit at the base of a left trending crack. Start as low as possible on jugs and figure out a way to drop knee and not wreck your knee caps on a long move to a good edge in the midway break. Keep focused for the mantle. Set: Jimmy Blackhall, Jan 2020 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Starboard
Far Right (Starboard) problem. Start on the boulder with both hands matched on the horizontal break. A long move up then jugs. Inspect the top for Glass first FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jan 2020 | ||||
V1 | ★ Heel Hook
The lonely Big rock on the beach 5 meters from the little cave. Heel hook all the way mental finish. Set: 10 Mar 2016 FFA: 10 Mar 2016 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Particle Wave
Start at the low LHS on good holds, and follow the weakness traversing diagonally right on strong sloped holds, find knee bar rest. Push through matching undercling into sharp quartz rock with long moves, keeping feet on soild rock, hug the last big blocks being cautious of the last one. rock over mantle. 8m boulder Video is on the net, v4 holds gets a v5 as conditions are rarely bomber this close to the coast. There are 3 alternate finishes all of them are quality and stay at v5. FFA: Matt Hutton, 1990 | 8m | |||
V2 | ★★ Bobs Your Uncle Or Your Aunty
Furtherest left route before choss. Sit start in a cross on good holds and move up positive holds above to a high top. Get down moving left. FA: unknown | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Groundhog day
2nd last line. To the right of BYUOYA- starting on a grey bulge in a pocket. FA: unknown | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ outNback
Previously established classic long traverse going left from the side pull left of Miami Slicer around bulge (Crux) and along easy jug line staying low for full value to corner - V2 for the round trip. Underclings only version an open project. Set: Pete Stebbins, Mar 2019 | 10m | |||
V2 | ★★ Finger Killer
Start at Bobs your Uncle, head up to the chalky ledge then traverse right across to the other chalky ledge. Start to descend before Maimi Slicer and use the "finger killer" undercling crimp to descend into the start of sandy toes under the roof. Finish in the sit start position. Set: Ava Williams, 18 Apr 2022 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Sandy Toes
Sit start at the far left of the lower ledge and work your way all the way right the the last obvious hold along the lower traverse. Great warm up boulder... easier for kids. FA: Ava Williams, 7 Aug 2021 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ Miami Slicer
Sit start from undercling then follow the three big holds up. SHARP jug up top. FA: Matt Hutton, 1990 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Placebo
Start this gym like problem with a large bucket in the break and a RH undercling. Big move LH bring your feet up and driveby RH to slopper jug. Great fun | ||||
V3 | ★★ Dude looks like a lady
Hanging start, reach around bulge to slot and sloper, dyno to jug mantle over to left side pull. Up you go. Traverse left to get down. FA: Matt Hutton, 1990 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Tan Line
Start cross handed, move right, up, then diagonally left to sloper edge. FFA: Matt Hutton | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ All The Gear And No Idea
Link up. Start SIAS move left and slightly up- and then up into Placebo, finishing with its drive-by move. Traverse left to get down. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Sep 2019 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Suck it and see
Start on good hold at back of roof, work out to pocket, then crimps. Straight up to top, top out and traverse LEFTto descend FA: Matt Hutton, 1990 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Lick It and Slip It
Sit start as for Particle wave but punch up Suck It and See. Classic. Definitely traverse left to get down FA: Cal, 2015 | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Palmy Army
"Squeezed in" But done as its own line. Starts to the right of SIAS. Start in a sit start on a broken rail and blast up. | ||||
V4 | ★★ squeezed in
The last alternate finish, squeezed in but uses all her own holds. Exit out just above double under cling rail, cutting feet is always fun. FA: Matt Hutton, 1990 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Alt finish
Alt finish to particle wave, enter sharp quartz area. Throw out and left to black rail. Right side pull in quartz area assists mantle. Traverse right to get down FA: Matt Hutton, 1990 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Groundbreaking Offwidth Ascent
There is a small cave made between two boulders resting upon each other roughly between the Luxury of Isolation boulder and the Particle Wave wall. starts on the south side of the block and climbs through the cave out the other side. Looked like a shit fight! But maybe if you like that kinda thing, this is the problem for you FA: Andrew Rogers, 12 Nov 2022 | ||||
V0 | ★ The Luxury Of Isolation
Around the corner from Hodu, facing the ocean. Sit start on the far left side of the salty slab on good holds. Move up and right traversing across the face. Finish up far right. Can be slippery at high tide and in the sun. Add a grade for No-Hands. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Feb 2020 | ||||
V8/9 | ★★ Déjà View
Sit start on jugs formed by the crack. Traverse right on tough holds into the start of “Déjà Hues” and top out as this. Was sent by a visiting comp climber at V8/9, 5 years ago- sand height dependant. | 4m | |||
V1 | Ish
Sit start straight up. Very sharp rock. FA: WSD Set: WSD, 17 Aug 2015 FFA: 17 Aug 2015 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Ruach
Sit start, traverse left follow the line. Top out on the highest point. FFA: Leighton Smith Set: Pedro & Yulid Shorrock, 17 Aug 2015 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★★ Kadosh
Sit start follow the crack, keep moving left, top out at the end of the crack. Set: Yulid Shorrock, 17 Aug 2015 FA: Yulid Shorrock, 17 Aug 2015 | 7m | |||
V2 | Mike's mischief
So called because Mike told us this was Kadosh. It wasn't. Sit start hands matched on big jug. Bust straight out to mantle. There is also potentially good novelty value if you start reversed with hands on the same jug and feet out near the lip. Get the feet to the lip then turn and mantle. Much harder this way though. Set: Michael Williams, 14 Nov 2021 FA: Jack Mullaly, 14 Nov 2021 | ||||
V2 | Sky Prophet
Sit start low (requires erosion, refer to topo). Right hand sidepull/ pinch. Left hand on good crimp. Follow the bulge up and top out slightly right. FA: 3 Jan 2022 | ||||
V3/4 | With nice words
Start matched on good jug. Traverse left without using the lip or anything above it. Top out as for Mike's Mischief. Set: 3 Jan 2022 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Hodu
Start on the under-cling and shoot for the lip, mental in to it. Set: WSD, 17 Aug 2015 FA: WSD, 17 Aug 2015 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Brazzo’s Day Out
The bloc to the right of Ish. Start in a sit with high LH and low RH crimp. Straight up FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 2020 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Laugh Hard At The Absurdly Evil
Follow No fear and instead of topping out climb down, through cave and finish at Mayim. Mantle finish. Should be graded 24 with that many moves. Set: Yulid Shorrock FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 2020 | 9m | |||
V2 | ★★ No Fear
start on huge 2 hand jug, make your way along the outside of boulder. only using hold on the outside. make your way around the outside of the boulder staying low and top out on the high point.(don't use the hold on top until top out.same finish as Torah. Set: Yulid Shorrock, 3 Jul 2015 FA: WSD, 25 Sep 2015 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Princess Fingers
Start on “No Fear”s jug ledge, moving left through “Don’t Fall” (don’t use Don’t Falls jugs on the lip) powering over to the crack feature. Tackle a fingery bulge involving a sharp pocket, blasting upwards. Set: Yulid Shorrock, 1 Jul 2015 FA: Yulid Shorrock, 7 Oct 2015 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Don't Fall
Sit start on two small jugs, then move up and slightly left through the roof to mount. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Old School Direct
Sit-start on small red rock, strong pull on leads to crux throw over bulge then straight up. Keep the hips in. FA: unknown, 1990 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Déjà Hue
Stand start (or sit if the sand is high). LH on sloper at lip, RH pinch. Traverse right using slopes, pinches and crimps to top out at the high point. Sharp | 3m | |||
V4 | AKH
Start just below direct and make your way to the left passing Torah finishing at YAHUSHUA | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Torah
Sit start on the far left of the boulder. RH small undercling, LH on slopper jug or undercling right next to slopper jug. Figure out a way to blast out. Top out on the highest point. FA: Pedro WSD, 26 Aug 2015 Set: Yulid Shorrock, 26 Aug 2015 | 4m | |||
V0 | Welcome to Miami
Starts low on obvious jugs, traverses the lip, then rocks over to top out. Short and sweet but nothing special. | 1m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Free Willy
Start on MB on two good jugs then traverse right get heel on good jug right hand to sloper then bump to good crimp heel hook the sloppy edge left hand to good jug. Linked and finishes on Torah V2 problem. use only white crack, don't use the black jug. (that's Cheating) Set: Will Lee, 23 Sep 2015 FA: Will Lee, 23 Sep 2015 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★★ Miami Break
Starts low on obvious jugs at the base of the break. Pretty nice. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Miami Break Away
Starts as for MB, but heads out right along shelf-like feature, before rocking up to huge jug and rejoining MB at it's top. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Hypodermic
start under roof, on 2 poor underclings, move out over lip and up face past 3 finger right hand pocket FA: Jack Nicholls, 10 Aug 2015 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★★ MAYIM
Start from YAHUSHUA pass Hypodermic, MB pass through the cave, pass Torah make your way right and finish at Toqeph. It'so long if it was vertical it would have bolt. Bring your stamina with you. Set: Yulid Shorrock, 3 Jul 2015 FA: Yulid Shorrock, 2 Apr 2016 | 12m | |||
V1 | ★★★ YAHUSHUA
Same boulder as Miami break on the left, Sit start heel hook, Set: Yulid Shorrock, 10 Feb 2015 FFA: Yulid Shorrock, 10 Feb 2015 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★★ It’s All About Confidence, Baby
To the left of Salty arete. Start in a sit start on excellent holds and move straight up the nice weaknesses to a easy top out overlooking the the lovely ladies in bikinis. | ||||
VB | ★ Salty Arete
The arete to the left of Sunset Boulevard. Start in a sit start on great holds and flow upwards. Stunning for sunsets! | ||||
V3 | ★★★ You Can’t Blag a Blagger
The bloc to the left of hypodermic.Sit-Start with LH on low grip and high RH in Gaston. Trickery into the jug on the lip and start manteling to get out of the steep. Move straight up and slightly left continuing a tenuous mantle. It is to go without saying- the small rocks and boulders around the main solid wall- are NOT in. FA: Jimmy Blackhall & but most likely was done before- so please come to me with details | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Sunset Boulevard
The picturesque spot and must do. Same sit-Start as YCBAB with LH on low grip and high RH in Gaston. Trickery into the jug on the lip and get inventive blasting right. Squeeze and move straight up the razor crack to a difficult mantle. The large pedestal on the left is not in and neither is the bloc to the right. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Miami Marketta
Come to the markets, have a bit of fun. Starts opposite MB on the obvious holds and heel hook. Up the feature to slab finish. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Början
Start right hand side pull, left hand on jug. Right hand up to jug, left hand goes to sloper. Left hand then goes to good pinch and then dyno left hand for the lip. Match and mantle over for top out. It's usually a sit start but depends on the sand levels. Fun little sequence FA: Harley Dawes, 2 Jan 2021 | ||||
V1 | ★ Fish Bait
Sit start on small crimps then move straight up and over the lip. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Grasshopper's Rock
Start both hands on side pull then move up to crimps and mantle. Don't use arete. | 3m | |||
V3 | Mystery man
Start towards the left of the boulder (can't remember if its a sit or stand, but it's probably stand). Traverse the face then top out as per Grasshoppers Rock. FA: Jack Mullaly | ||||
V0+ | Miami Flake
Sit start below lower flake, move up to lower flake and follow. Move up to upper flake and top out on the far right with mantle. If possible, start at the lowest point of boulder as sand can affect the starting point. Located on the other side of Grasshopper's Rock and starts on the bottom of the two flakes that run up from left to right. Set: Sammy Stevo, 24 Jan 2016 FA: Sammy Stevo, 24 Jan 2016 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Done Tastefully
FA: Jimmy Blackhall | ||||
V1 | ★★ Adventures Before Dementia
FA: Jimmy Blackhall | ||||
V0 | ★ Jimbourghini High Traverse
FA: Jimmy Blackhall |
Showing all 88 routes.