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Routes as trad in Lower Tier

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Showing all 34 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 White Lie

Start 10 metres left of 'Random Route' on a ledge six metres up. Climb the wall to some wire placements, then awkward moves to the bolt. Pass this with difficult, then up the short diagonal crack.

FA: Richard Watts & Mike Law-Smith, 1983

Mixed trad 10m, 1
13 Random Route

An obvious, marked corner with a bulging right wall, when walking down left from 'Bile'. The name says it all.

  1. 20 metres - Up the short corner, follow the ramp leftwards to a vertical corner.

  2. 12 metres - Climb the corner crack to a ledge.

  3. 20 metres - Walk right along the ledge for about five metres and then follow a weakness to a tree belay.

  4. 12 metres - Traverse left around the nose, and finish up the crack.

FA: Neil Anderson & Peter Aitchison, 1969

Trad 64m, 4
14 Random Route Variant

A good alternative second pitch is the steep corner crack four metres to the right.

FA: Mike Todd & Tony Wood, 1969

Trad 12m
16 Random Route Direct Finish

The direct finish!

Trad 12m
17 Randy Route

Harder and slightly more direct. Start after pitch two of 'Random Route'.

  1. 20 metres - Move up and left onto a ledge, then up the corner to a belay at some blocks.

  2. 12 metres - Move left and up the short yellow wall and then finish as for Random Route.

FA: Ian Lewis & Lincoln Hall, 1974

Trad 32m, 2
19 Dropkick

Start about four metres left of the second pitch of 'Random Route' at an obvious corner. Up the corner past a bolt and continue up to a short crack. Move left to a second bolt and up the water-streaked wall to an overhang and thread runner. Pull onto the ledge and traverse left to belay.

FA: Mike Peck & Joe Lynch, 1987

Mixed trad 15m, 2
22 Dropkick Direct Finish

A steep finish which is a considerable improvement on the original. Instead of traversing left below the overhang, continue straight up past a fixed wire and two bolts. Move left and up the arete after the second bolt.

FA: David Jenkins & Simon Carter, 1990

Mixed trad 18m, 2
19 Mirage

A good companion route to 'Morning Thunder'. The belay shimmers 10 metres over the horizon. Start three metres right of 'Random Route' in a corner to the right of a loose column. Up the blocky corner, then more difficult moves up the wall above following the incipient cracks. Move right at the top (or harder, straight up) and then easy moves up the slab.

FA: John Smart, 1982

Trad 25m
23 Thermovision

Start on a bushy ledge five metres right of 'Mirage'. Up a brushed streak with two bolts; take some small wires and RPs.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Mike Peck & Ken Luck, 1987

Mixed trad 30m, 2
15 Eavesdropper

A mediocre traverse. Start five metres left of 'Pelican Punch'.

  1. 20 metres - Climb the crack, moving right to a block belay.

  2. 24 metres - Move down to the right, then traverse across a steep lichenous wall. Climb a slab and crack on the right to belay on 'Singularity'.

  3. 36 metres - Climb a slab on the right to a ledge and continue right beneath the overhang to finish on a ramp. Walk off right into 'Cocker's Gully'.

FA: John Hoskins & Tony Wood, 1970

Trad 80m, 3
22 Wes' Birthday

The thin bolted wall left of 'Pelican Punch'. Two bolts on the first wall, and two on the top wall.

FA: Tallis Didcott & Wes Smith, 1990

Mixed trad 30m, 4
16 Pelican Punch

The prominent crack line on the wall left of the first pitch of 'Hurricane Cracks'. Up the wide flake crack then a ramp to a diagonal line which takes you to a ledge on 'Hurricane Cracks'.

FA: Phil Cullen, 1970

Trad 20m
15 Hurricane Cracks

Popular, with an excellent second pitch. Start at a short slab eight metres right of 'Eavesdropper'.

  1. 35 metres - Up the slab and corner (crux) to a ledge. Climb a dirty wall and a ramp trending left to the huge bushy ledge.

  2. 20 metres - A fine wall. Ascends the flaky crack in the centre of the wall. It is awkward to start but good holds then appear.

FA: Peter Aitchison & Neil Anderson, 1968

Trad 55m, 2
16 Singularity

Uninspiring and dirty in appearance, but the climbing isn't too bad. Start 12 metres to the right of 'Hurricane Cracks'.

  1. 30 metres - Up the crack and slab. Continue up the off-width corner, moving right at half height and belay beneath the overhang.

  2. 22 metres - Climb a corner and the narrow exposed chimney.

FA: Peter Aitchison & John Price, 1968

Trad 52m, 2
22 Lust in the Dust

The thin brushed wall right of 'Singularity' with four bolts. A dirty finish leads to a bolt belay on a mossy ledge. Rap off.

FA: Mike Peck, 1989

Mixed trad 15m, 4
14 Lichen to Love

Aptly named and a fine companion to other routes in the vicinity. Start at the lichenous pillar right of 'Singularity'. Up the pillar and flakes before moving right across the moss to a corner. Up this and more moss to a large bushy ledge.

FA: Phil Cullen & Peter Mills, 1970

Trad
17 Dratsab

Another moss and dirt special. Start at an obvious corner crack 20 metres to the right of and below 'Singularity'. The first pitch is worthwhile.

  1. 35 metres - Up a corner for seven metres and exit left up a thin crack, over a bulge and continue up to a large ledge and then move left to a flake pinnacle.

  2. 28 metres - Up the pinnacle and wall, before moving left to belay beneath an overhanging chimney.

  3. 12 metres - Climb to a tree, then grovel desperately up the gross thrutch chimney.

FA: Peter Aitchison & Tony Wood, 1968

Trad 75m, 3
17 Bluetongue

Very dirty. The crack three metres to the right of 'Dratsab'. Climb the crack to a ledge, up left to another crack and then leftwards up a diagonal crack. Done in two pitches.

FA: Peter Mills & Lincoln Hall, 1974

Trad 35m
15 Felix

Start (marked) two metres right of 'Bluetongue' in a niche. Up the open corner, right then back left up a sloping ramp and corner to a ledge. Up the V-split cracks to finish. Done in two pitches.

FA: Tony Wood & Graham Horrocks, 1967

Trad 34m
22 Lager Frenzy

The obvious brushed line left of 'Derision'. A hard start leads to sustained slab climbing past two bolts. Follow the brushed line left to a third bolt and up past this on flakes. Scramble up the choss to belay.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard & Craig Kentwell, 1987

Mixed trad 30m, 3
15 Derision

The dirty crack 30 metres right of 'Felix'. Climb the corner crack, scramble up the choss, then step right into a crack. Originally two pitches.

FA: Graham Still & Tony Wood, 1967

Trad 38m
14 Flying Tortoise

The curving chimney eight metres right of 'Derision'.

  1. 15 metres - Up the chimney and filth, onto the left arete and follow this to join 'Derision'.

  2. 35 metres - Up 'Derision' and then up the left-hand of two cracks. Climb the crack behind the tree then diagonally right.

FA: Joe Friend, 1973

Trad 50m, 2
15 No Wucking Forries

More choss. The obvious chimney two metres right of 'Flying Tortoise'.

  1. 25 metres - Up the chimneys and then the vegetated ramp and wall to a ledge.

  2. 20 metres - Down the ledge, traverse left to crack. Up the cracks and corner.

FA: Gary Scott & Simon Parker, 1975

Trad 45m, 2
17 The Bleeder

"Horrible and harder than 17 for a human being." - Chris Larque. The obvious corner crack and chimney at the bottom of 'Cocker's Gully' (50 metres right of 'Flying Tortoise').

  1. 20 metres - Up the crack and chimney and around the overhang.

  2. 30 metres - Scramble up a short wall, then left up a split rock.

FA: Bryden Allen † & Ray Lassman, 1971

Trad 50m, 2
13 Red Strides Gully

Another poxy gully route. Start four metres right of 'The Bleeder'. Up the buttress to a platform, into the gully, then right and over the boulder. Up to a large ledge and finish up the crack on the left.

FA: Tony Wood & John Hoskins, 1971

Trad 28m
10 The Lace Face

Start at the gully right of 'Red Strides Gully'. Climb the groove in the right wall.

FA: Bill Wilson & C. Claridge, 1975

Trad 20m
18 Crack left of Tea Bag

FA: Unknown

Trad
18 Tea Bag

Start beneath the clean line five metres left of 'Passionfruit Crack'. A bouldery start leads to a crack. Up this, through the bulge, and up the wall above.

FA: John Stone & Bill Begg, 1979

Trad 25m
19 Ratbag

Between 'Fleabag' and 'Tea Bag' with one bolt and RP placements.

FA: Ed Garnett & Noel Ward, 1996

Mixed trad 20m, 1
19 Fleabag

White fleapowder has cleaned up the originally friable holds and dirt - quite popular and well worthwhile. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts about three metres left of 'Passionfruit Crack'. Take some RPs and wires.

FA: Dave McGregor, Mike Peck & Simon Carter, 1985

Mixed trad 20m, 3
7 Passionfruit Crack

The garbage gully 20 metres below and right of 'Red Strides Gully'. Walk up the gully with a bit of chimneying at the top for variety.

FA: John Hoskins & C. Douglas, 1970

Trad 28m
19 Scumbag

No Bolts! The thin crack and flake just right of 'Passionfruit Crack'. Getting to the first protection is somewhat perilous.

FA: Joe Lynch & Mike Peck, 1985

Trad 25m
25 Candy Samples

Technical and fingery climbing on a deceptive wall. Takes the brushed waterstreak 10 metres right of 'Scumbag'. Up the flake to a bolt. Climb past this and a couple of wire placements to a second bolt and the crux. Struggle up this into the easy groove and up to a tree belay.

FA: Mike Peck & Joe Lynch (yo-yo), 1986

FFA: Steve Mayers & Scott Camps, 1986

Mixed trad 25m, 2
24 Mudshark

Fairly sustained with a hard finish up into the groove. Start about four metres right of 'Candy Samples' at the incipient corner. Thin moves up the slab to the flake then continue up the wall past three bolts into the easy groove. Walk up this to the top and a tree belay.

FA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch & Mike Peck, 1986

Mixed trad 25m, 3

Showing all 34 routes.

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