Showing all 57 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Rosa Gully Rosa Gully south side | |||||
20 | Inland sea
Right of cave, start up on metamorphic rock to ledge. Use a short draw or screwgate and a keen belayer past the 3rd bolt. FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2019 | 4 | |||
Tasman
Project right of Pacific, finishing at Pacific anchors | |||||
18 | Pacific
Middle of big cave wall, 10m R of Harold would Go. Hard start (stickclip 1st ring) then up line past scissor block. Big move to finish. Careful when lowering past the scissor block. Rethreading the rope through the ring just left of it, as a redirect (you're still lowering off the double rings up top), totally avoids this problem. FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2019 | 15m, 8 | |||
22 | Harold Would Go
Varied funkiness. Steep corner 2m R of Funky Moves then sandy moves up R to roof (hidden chip to clip high bolt after foot ledge fell on my head), L a move and up. For Eddie Aikau and Harold Holt (who I met 2 weeks before he drowned). FA: Michael Law, 2015 | 20m, 9 | |||
20 | ★★ Funky Moves
Interesting moves the whole way. This climbs the corners on the left edge of the big cave some 13m R of Matts Climb. Start up irritating slab or walk R and up into the cave and walk left to the line, step down to bolt belay. Up the line to a double U lower off (or topout to a 3 ring anchor 10m higher over the top). It replaces an old sandbag 15 (!) Jurds on Toast which probably climbed the start a bit further left then continued up the corner past 2 carrots (still rusting). Sling added after rockfall. FA: Jeff Crass, 2014 | 30m, 12 | |||
17 X | Seaside Suicide
A suicidal route with almost every hold guaranteed to break on you. On the bright side every ascent is unique! First 2 bolts as for Devils Sandpit, clip the 3rd bolt of TRAAF continue right and up the proud arete that looks great but climbs terribly, on holds that crumble beneath your fingers and toes (clip next bolt and ignore bolt on right of arete, going straight up instead). Alternatively, traverse in from the walk-in ledge on the right, clipping the bolt on right of arete and going up. FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, 21 Feb 2016 | ||||
23 | 3 roofs and a funeral
Much easier and more solid than it looks (fortunately). Start 2m R of The Devil's Sandpit and 6m L of Funky Moves (but at ground level). Follow line to lower-off below awesome breaking wave of rock. Start has good holds out left. The 2nd roof is easy, you throw a leg over a big flake on the lip, it's been jumped on but the belayer should stay off to the left till you're off it. Third roof can be done with all the good holds wet. FA: Michael Law, 2015 | 20m, 9 | |||
20 | ★ The Devil's Sandpit
2m right of Matt's climb and just left of 3 roofs and a funeral. A burly move to the 2nd bolt then up easily to ledge, leave behind the jugs for slopers up rounded cracks to anchor. Set: Chris Bennetts-Cash, 2015 | 15m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★ Pocks
Start on biggest boulder. Up the ledge and step right to crack then onwards through roofs. Better to be short or tall on this FA: mikl, 2014 | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Rosa Parks
Classic and varied. Same start as Pocks and straight up thin crack and wall above. Claudette Colvin was actually the person who wouldn't give up her seat - see drunk history . FA: Michael Law, 2015 | 20m, 10 | |||
18 | ★★ Pox
About 3m right of the arete at the mouth of the gully, opposite the ladders, on 2nd biggest boulder. Clip 1st bolt with a screwgate and step left and up past another 8 Ubolts to a loweroff. 1st pitch retrobolted and straightened out 2014 (originally traversed in from right at roof). There is the old trad 2nd pitch over roof above (17ish). FA: Michael Law & Garry Eggins, 1979 | 25m, 9 | |||
Rosa Gully Rosa Gully North Side | |||||
19 | ★★ Chicken of the Sea
Line on the left hand side (north) at the base of the steep narrow part of the gully. By car at base of steep section, 50m from the gully exit to the sea. Up on jugs (you can clip 1st bolt on Rainbow Connection and have your second unclip it later) and cross left onto ledge. up to ramp where you can pull on crimps or step right and to a hands off freakish slab. Then up easily through ledge and funkies up second ramp to anchor. FA: Patrick Burr, 3 Jun 2015 | 25m, 11 | |||
22 | ★★ Rainbow connection
Start a metre right of Chicken of the Sea, head up and rightwards to finish up a thin crack. Varied and slightly wonky climbing on good rock FA: Michael Law, 2015 | 25m, 11 | |||
22 | ★★ Hourglass
About 12m R of Rainbow Connection etc, and 10m L of pornflakes. Up tricky slab, ditto bulge, then easy corner to top FA: Michael Law, 2019 | 30m, 12 | |||
18 | ★★ Pornflakes - The second coming
Pumpy! Extended with 20m of new climbing. About 40m back up the gully from the sea and 20m R of Rainbow Connection, below a chossy left tending flake. Up the flake moving left past 2 ledges. At top go right to hidden flake at anchor. Careful lowering and cleaning as it's very diagonal (leave 1st draw clipped then climb up and remove it) First crack was done as easy, scary trad (13!), extended by Eugene. Long draws will cut drag. Originally called 'Pornflakes' - Mikl's old rusted carrot can be seen on the first obvious ledge. FA: Michael Law, 1976 FA: Eugene Mak, 4 Jul 2015 | 30m, 14 | |||
20 | ★ Vril
"A ficticious natural force". Originally a trad 18! Retrobolted and much saner. Awkward moves all the way. About 12m right of Pornflakes, and about 18m left of the ladder, on the left edge of an obvious orange wall with a crack running up the centre (SS). Follow the cracks to a small roof, then head right and up to the top. heading left after the roof is easier and has its own bolt now. FA: mikl law, 1980 | 12m, 5 | |||
Open Project
This route (working title "The Frelling Wall") was abandoned when a large chunk of rock fell off and nearly brained the belayer (and made the route significantly harder - 24/25). It also seeps a lot. If you want to have go before the rest falls into the sea, all yours. Up the flake to the roof, then blast out right onto great rock aiming for a rail, then up to meet the Tourist Route. Bolted | 15m | ||||
19 | ★★ Unfurnished Sympathy
Follow bolts right of ladder up arete, funky off the ledge. belay on anchor post and crappy fixed hangers. P2 is an unfinished project. Set: Michael Law FA: Michael Law & Jeffrey Crass, 2019 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Obscurity
Full scale multipitch, seacliff atmosphere with modern protection. Originally done as a 4 pitch trad route, the top pitch is a chossy mess, and pitch one (described separately) is a good trad problem, so this is the middle 2 pitches. It climbs a slightly suspect flake, gear in the flake will tend to loosen it, so bolts on the left keep you and the rope out of the way if big edges come off the flake (I used double ropes). If the flake decides to go for a walk you're all dead anyway. Start by climbing the ladder and walking past the first arete (Posturing). After another 12m you scramble over a boulder and there's a small corner.
To descend do a 30m rap back to the ledge. The rap overhangs the ledge slightly so you can bounce wildy and hope for the best, but better if the first person down clips the rap rope into the top 2 runners down P2 so they can get left and down to the walk round ledge. Next down takes the draws off and gets pulled (or bounces) onto the ledge. FA: Michael Law, 1984 | 30m, 2, 11 | |||
20 | ★★ The Last Wave
1
19
28m
2
18
12m
3
20
10m
Fun sea sport cliffing with the usual mix of choss and pleasure. Loses the sun in summer by 11am. Retrobolts half of the first pitch of Karen's Climb then does a long direct finish. Take about 11 draws and 2 slings for belays. Several climbers has been threatened with fines by police for climbing this route (September 2019). The police are called out because locals think climbers are suicidal people ready to jump. Police deal with over 50 suicides a year along this coastline. Wear climbing helmets and try and look like a climber as much as possible. When belaying at the top be friendly to people walking past. It's best to rap back down the route rather than climb the fence and walk off. Down Rosa Gully and up the ladder, then walk along the ledge 15m above the sea for 100m to a small honeycombed ramp about 40m R of Obscurity (ringbolted corner).
FA: Mikl Law, Vanessa Peterson, Warwick Payten & Jeff Crass, 2014 | 50m, 3, 11 | |||
Diamond Bay Northern Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ What'll the Neighbours Think
Up TC to the first break, then step right to the shallow corner (BR). Follow this (BRs) to the top. 6 BRs in total. Belay as for TC. FA: Giles Bradbury, 1980 | 18m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★★ Violet Town
Popular. Start as for TC. Blast straight up and over the small roof (BRs) to the obvious "eye". Continue straight up the wall (BRs) to double bolt belay. 8 BRs in total. FA: M. Myers, 1990 | 18m, 8 | |||
24 M1 | Punch the Clock
Still awaiting a free ascent. Start as for VT. Up to the roof as for VT, then trend right, following the line of BRs up the left side of the black streak. FA: Mikl Law, 1980 | 18m, 8 | |||
26 | ★★ Ordeal by Fur
2m right of PtC. Heads up the right hand edge of the black streak. Traverse right to line (BR) then blast straight up the wall passing BRs. FA: Mikl Law, 1984 | 18m, 8 | |||
27 | Moore
2m right of ObF, hard pull onto wall. Follow the line of manky BRs straight up the wall FA: Mikl Law, 1980 | 18m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★ Acute What
3m right of M, on large white sloping boulder below chossy arete. Step onto wall then dangle left around the arete. Head up the wall, trending right to stay near the arete. Rebolted with 8 U bolts and new anchors. (June 2012) FA: Mikl Law, 1980 | 18m, 8 | |||
25 | Spurting Wildly
Multipitch climb with ancient protection and even less natural protection. Start about 25 m R of Acute What on white choss wall. Below and just left of the corner in the middle of the east facing wall.
FA: mikl law, 1984 | 20m | |||
Diamond Bay Diamond Bay Southside | |||||
25 | Rabies
6m left of Wag's Effort, below jug on lip. A major thrash through 4 roofs and a mid-life crisis. Muscle up and leftward past bird crap, glued on holds and 9 RBs. FA: Mikl Law, 1988 | 20m, 9 | |||
26 | Fade
2m right of Wag's Effort. Swarm up arete, balancy over roof with unique suction move, then up wall past a thin crux. 6 RBs to double RB lower off. FA: Mikl Law, 1990 | 20m, 6 | |||
18 | ★ Honeycomb Arete
Start up easy wall left of corner through 3 RBs to ledge. Then up chossy, sandy, arete. Clip high Ubolt with lockiong biner to keep you off the ledge. 2 RBs through the honeycomb to a double RB lower. Take a hold home as a souvenir. At the rate the holds break off no 2 ascents will never be the same! FA: Ness, 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Two Succulent Young Men With a Taste for the Bizarre
Two meters right of 'Iron Lady' Strenuous start, then straight up through 6 RBs. Awkward layaway to to double RB belay. FA: Paul Hoskins & Nic Collyer, 1984 | 18m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ Redneck Brother
Nice climbing with one sandy move. Use U bolts. Warning: The last bolt before the anchors is loose. FA: Dave Wagland, 1980 | 18m, 6 | |||
24 | ★ Mompox
Marked and 1m right of 'Redneck Brother'. Reachy start past first 2 RBs, then interesting moves through pocketed area, past 2 more RBs then straight up to final RB and to lower off. Triple BB anchors above for top roping. FA: mike law, 1996 | 12m, 5 | |||
20 | ★★ Gloucester Buckets
Crag classic. Marked, 1m right of 'Mompox' "Perfectly" chipped holds leading up to left of the grassy pocket, past 4 BRs, then left of the seam through the crux, passing final BR to lower off. Double BB anchor for top roping. Seeps for a week after heavy rain. FA: Mikl Myers, 1990 | 12m, 5 | |||
24 | Bringing a Blush to the Snow
2m right of 'Gloucester Buckets' Almost always found seeping and wet. Follow the streak FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 20m, 5 | |||
20 | Gravel Pit Road
Start in the middle of wild cactus. Straight up past manky BR's FA: Geoff Weigand, 1980 | 16m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Sleazy Mission
The following five routes are all on the north facing black wall that disappears into the chasm. The wall can be quite greasy and the base can be flooded after prolonged rain. Funky and desperate. 3m right of LP, at the undercut arete. Delicate moves up the arete (2 RBs), then finish up the corner above. 2 RBs anchor. (Solo on F/A, then retrobolted) FA: Mikl Law, 1985 | 10m, 2 | |||
23 | Small Pox
1m right of K. Boulder past BR to ledge, then up as you will. (solo on F/A) FA: Mikl Law, 1985 | 10m, 1 | |||
Bow Wall | |||||
26 | Rupture of the Deep
Big, feels like El Cap after the other sports climbs in the area. Climb up with increasing difficulty to a bridging session then a pair of rooflets and finish at the 8th ring, a 50m rope just reaches. FA: Mike Law, 1992 | 26m, 8 | |||
22 | ★ Hot Axis
The classic of the crag. After the initial loose session in 'The Devil's sandpit" the climbing is excellent and reachy. Start some 60m L of Rupture of the Deep at a flake / corner about 10 m up. Move up R and back left to base of route, then follow a flake line over bulge and slab to rap ring, 7 rings en route. FA: Mike Law, 1992 | 24m, 7 | |||
25 | Honey, I Shrunk my Dick
A short double roof crux. Start 10 L of Hot Axis up high, head up leftwards, thru roofs and up, 6 rings. FA: Mike Law, 1992 | 20m, 6 | |||
25 | Something Wild
Maximum pump for the grade.Also sandy and scary at times. Start at the R end of the wall, up wall past 3 rings to ledge, up past another and into cave. Clip ring on lip and move R 1m and up overhung line to top. FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 24m, 6 | |||
26 | My Left Sheep
FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 10m, 3 | |||
25 | White Skin
FA: Mike Myers, 1990 | 12m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Bottom Gun
FA: Mike Myers, 1990 | 12m, 3 | |||
22 | Make Believe
A great little pump, start up small corner in the middle of the wall, 4 rings. FA: Mike Myers, 1990 | 12m, 4 | |||
24 | Sweet Times
FA: Mike Myers, 1990 | 12m, 4 | |||
27 | Black Tuesday
Steep climbing up the wall above Sea Kwarry Wall, with a big roof move. Start; on the ledge above Make Believe etc, go R and up wall and roof, 7 rings. FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 15m, 7 | |||
24 | ★ Occasional
Venus' finest hour, 3 m L of MB, 4 rings, L at top FA: Venus Kondos, 1992 | 12m, 4 | |||
26 | ★ John Cooper Clarke
FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 12m, 3 | |||
26 | Rubberman
FA: Mike Myers, 1990 | 13m | |||
25 | ★ Drowning by Numbers
Eventual exhaustion, Start, 1m L of R, cave to start. FA: Mike Myers, 1990 | 13m | |||
28 | ★ Gluckstern
"Lucky Star" left side of wall the only route not chipped. FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 12m, 4 | |||
24 | Nipples to Play With
FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 12m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Cossack Corner
FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 10m, 3 | |||
20 | Wuss Corner
Escape route. From belay below Prowess, right and up to exciting stretched out move under roof. About 16 with one aid. FA: Michael Law, 2011 | 15m | |||
23 | Chipped ★★ Prowess
Stunning positions. I was hit by a wave on the lip while bolting in big seas. Either 1) approach 20m left of Bow Wall and climb roped up access rings (16); or
FFA: Michael Law, 2012 | 15m |
Showing all 57 routes.