Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sissy Crag | |||||
V0 | ★ Graham Fairlyburly
Traverse the low ledge rightwards. Move up via a two finger pocket. Not Recommended. Please don't do this problem as the holds are getting too polished on the penis cling. Bill Smith is a much better warmup. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ The Pest
Sit start rail left of Penis Cling side pull. Use sloper with right hand and finsh out left FA: gavin portier | 2m | |||
V5 | Dan-De-Lion
Just left of 'Penis Cling' start on the juggy ledge and continues up the slopey arete. | ||||
V5 | ★ Dan-De-Lion Sit
Sit start on low rail and continue up the slopey arete finishing on a high jug. | ||||
V9 | ★★★ Penis Cling
L1, R2, L3, R4, M4 A Classic two move wonder.Knock off a grade for using your heel. Has been done going straight up and not using L3. I'm told that it was also done static by Fred Nicole during a visit at V10'ish? FA: Peter Balint, 1992 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Penis Cling (Heel Hook)
| 2m | |||
V9 | Penis Extension
Start as for 'Penis Cling' but continue from the jug and finish 4m up on the obvious ramp. | ||||
V10 | ★★ Penis Cling Low
Same as Penis Cling, but starting with right hand on the undercling to the right of the left undercling. Peter | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Gorilla Index
Start on the finish jug rail for (penis cling). Traverse right until (break to break). 1 move up to jug and jump right to span the huge bulge. Keep traversing right up high and drop down onto the finish jug of (silent bob). Finish up (for sissies). If done statically through the bulge, grade drops to V6. | ||||
V10 | The Gatekeepers
Named for the people who insist that this be a separate climb from the original because it isn’t a sit start. Exactly the same as Penis Cling, just don’t sit to start. Instead start with your left on the far foot and pull on awkwardly, crossed under with your left hand, and completely locked on your right shoulder. FA: Peter Jeavons, 15 Jun 2019 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Love Making In The Dark
Sit start with left hand on the hueco pinch and right hand underclinging, then power your way up the right hand side of the 'Penis Cling' shield. Fun. Originally done as a 'no heels' problem. | 2m | |||
V9 | ★ Summer Night City
Probably impossible to repeat as LeBrenton's exact and undoubtedly desperate sequence been lost into obscurity. It's known to be underglinged all the way to the top using the hardest method known to man and is said to be a Crag Classic. FA: Rob LeBreton, 1992 | ||||
V9 | ★★ Summer Night Extension
After the finish of SNC, link into Zac's Highball. | ||||
V6 | Zac's Highball
Start up just right of 'Summer Night City' and move right through a series of two finger pockets before finishing at an obvious jug above 'The House With No Steps' with a fern stuck in it. | ||||
V1 | ★ Break To Break
From the jug in the break right of SNC finish up to the slot. | 2m | |||
V3 | Billy Bong
Basically the sit start for 'Break to Break'. Sit start with left hand on good side pull and right hand on the polished edge. Go up and finish as for 'Break to Break' in the slot. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Traverse
Start on the far left rail and traverse all the way to the chin-up bar. Finishing with both hands matched. | 10m | |||
V4 | ★ Rigid Fist Up Bum
| 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ Rigid Fist Up Bum (HH)
M1, L2, R3, L4, M4 Kneebar/heel helps. | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ The House With No Steps
M4, R5, L6, L7 'Campus' problem. Hold the finish for a few seconds for the tick. FA: Gavin Portier | 2m | |||
V7 | ★★ High Up Over Yonder
All the way to the top jug. | ||||
V7 | ★ RFUB into HUOY
Link rigid fist into HUOY by traversing along the ledge. | ||||
V7 | Jellyair
Start as for rigid fist and link directly up into HUOY. | ||||
V10 | ★ Bowels Of The Devil
L0, R3, L4, R5, M5 Hard press move made slightly easier by starting using small foothold high and left the start hold. Just keep reaching. Looks unfeasible but works. FA: Peter Balint, 1995 | ||||
V12 | Bowels Of The Devil matched start
Start matched on the sidepull, make a hard move right into the start position of Bowels. Was thought to be the actual start of Bowels. FA: Taylor Parsons, 2004 | ||||
V10 | Lucifer’s Entrails
Bowels of the Devil finishing up For Sissies. Probably where BotD should have finished. FA: Peter Jeavons, 4 Aug 2019 | ||||
V11 | Fortuitous
Start up Bowels of the Devil, finishing up The Solution of 1993. FA: Peter Jeavons, 20 Aug 2019 | ||||
V12 | Stretch
Same handholds as for Bowels of the Devil, but starting with a high right toehook. No dynamic movements or pads to cheat the start, just strict flexibility. Hard to grade. FA: Peter Jeavons, 12 Aug 2018 | ||||
V12 | Divisive
Stretch finishing up For Sissies. No pads to cheat the start. FA: Peter Jeavons, 16 Nov 2019 | ||||
V10 | ★★ Silent Bob | ||||
V9 | ★★ Silent Bob (HH)
M1, R2, L3, M3, R4, L5, M5 'Fantastic' problem. Watch that final swing. Unfortunately the second hold (R2)is often wet. Can and has been extended. FA: Tim O'Neill, 1997 | ||||
V10/11 | ★★★ Silent Bob Extension
Silent Bob into High Up Over Yonder. | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Silent Bob Low
Start with one hand on the round blob in roof 1.5m back from jug and one hand on the jug. Smear hard and climb into Silent Bob. FA: Damien Alexander, 13 Sep 2015 | ||||
V11/12 | ★ Eye of the Beholder
Start as for Silent Bob Low, and climb directly out via the micro crimp, skipping the wet rail from Silent Bob. Once on the soccer ball sloper after the lip go directly to the jug. The other holds further right on the ledge are out. FA: Damien Alexander, 27 Oct 2015 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ World War III
Traverse leftwards from the sloper next to the chin up bar and finish in the break above the 'Bowels Of The Devil' layaway. Stay below the good holds. Originally done as a 'no heels' problem. FA: Mike Myers, 1995 | ||||
V5 | ★ For Sissies
Up Not for Sissies via the undercling. Easy if you’re tall, nails if you’re not. | 2m | |||
V9 | ★★ Not for Sissies
Dyno - Either double or one handed. From the chin up bar (9) hurl yourself to the obvious flat hold 7ft up. Get a good spot and watch the landing zone. The undercling is out. | 2m | |||
V1 | Blame 1
No-foot. From a good slopey hold to the jug. | 2m | |||
V2 | Blame 2
Same as for 'Blame 1' but using the left hand in the pocket. | 2m | |||
V3 | Blame 3
Same as for 'Blame 2' except that the right hand is in the pocket instead of the left. | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Souvalaki
Same as the 'Blame' trio but you start one hold lower matched on the undercling and can you use your feet. M6, R7, M7, R8, L9, M9. | 3m | |||
V9 | ★★ The Solution of 1993
Start on the pull-up jug and reverse The Problem of 1993. Once you reach the Dentalectomy holds, move up to the top of the seam (on the holds that are off for Dentalectomy) and traverse through the last 2 metres, finishing on the hold above the Dentalectomy slopers and start hold. | ||||
V9 | ★★ The Problem of 1993
Start as for Dentalectomy and traverse left on pinches and slopers to finish on the chin up bar. | ||||
V6 | ★★ Dentalectomy Original Finish
As for 'Dentalectomy' but traverse left across the whole sloper rail and finish at the next jug. Originally done as a 'no heels' problem. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Dentalectomy
M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L4, R5, M5 A classic. Harder for shorties. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Directolectomy
One move wonder Start on dentalectomy undercling and dyno abound bulge to finish hold of solution of 1993 FA: Joey aquilina, 12 Jan | ||||
V0 | ★ Bubbles
Start as for WAIDH but go straight up to jug. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Bubbles Sit Start
Sit start to bubbles on low slopers. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ I’m Here?
Same as for WAIDH but finishing on higher rail. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ I’m Here? Sit Start
Sit start on slopers low down. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ What Am I Doing Here?
From the pocket, traverse right for a somewhat fun (but short) warm up. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ What Am I Doing Here? Sit Start
Sit Start low down on slopers. | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Slope Master Sit
Start as for Bubbles Sit Start and traverse to the right along the slopers to finish on last hold of Bill Smith. | ||||
V4 | ★ Wet Willy
From the Start jug of WAIDH, drop down onto the slopers and traverse right to the start holds of JOF. Reach up to the slopey pinch and then to the highest obvious finish hold directly above that. Alternatively, finish up JOF, but without an extra gold star for your refrigerator. | ||||
V5 | ★★ Just One Fix
Up the slopey features, past the two finger pocket to finish above the warm up start holds. Plenty of eliminates. | ||||
V2 | ★★ Zoom zoom
Start on the juggy pocket, traverse across finishing on the starting hold of ‘What Am I Doing Here’ FA: Milly Lewis, 20 Sep 2021 | 2m | |||
V6 | ★★ Gladheateher
From a jug down low, go right and up the short arete. | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ Gladheateher variant
Same as for 'Gladheateher' but skip the arete and dyno instead. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Jerk Off
1,2,7,3,4. Start on the low jug at the bottom of the little arete, head right through the underclings and into 'Bill Smith'. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Tell Someone Who Cares
1,2,3,4 A variant of 'Jerk Off'. From the underclings, go directly to 'Bill Smith' second to last hold. Easier for the tall. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Dry Reachin'
2, 7 (on previous topo) | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ Bill Smith
M5, R6, M6, R7, L3, R4, M4 Nice, juggy warm up. | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★ Buffallo Bill
Start as for 'Bill Smith' but from the huge jug (7) Dyno rightwards to the hold left of Mr Smiley's finish (with the little fern poking out) FA: Joe Hodgson, 1997 | 6m | |||
V1 | ★★ Blinky Bill
From the elliptical hold in the back of the roof, move left into and finish up 'Bill Smith'. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Jacko
Start on same hold as 'Blinky Bill', move straight out to smaller slot and then left into the giant slot and finish as for 'Bill Smith'. M8 9 7 3 M4 | 3m | |||
V10/11 | ★★★ Bubble O'Bill
Start on Elliptical jug of Blinky Bill, move directly out to the slot jug, grab any pocket and go big to the letterbox jug of Mr Smiley to finish as for Mr Smiley. Never done a move quite like this outside so hard to grade. Could be harder? FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jul 2020 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Short Circuit
Start as for 'Bill Smith', reverse 'Blinky Bill', make a hard move from the start of Blinky Bill to the large slot in the roof, then move back left into the end of Bill Smith. | 6m | |||
V3 | ★★ Circuit Jerk
Link Jerk Off into Short Circuit. A warm up pumper for the longer link ups. | 7m | |||
V10 | ★★★ The Curse Into I've Got My Tie On
Link Bill Smith into Mr Smiley then climb up I've Got My Tie On | ||||
V8 | ★★★ The Curse
Start up Bill Smith, into Mr Smiley, into Foam and finish up Vitamin C or Vitamin X. | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Bill Smith into Mr Smiley
Start up Bill Smith and finish up Mr Smiley | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Mr Smiley
M1, R2, L3, R4, L5, M5, R6, M6 Start low and left with your right in the 3/4 finger pocket and lunge for the first hold. A classic although the start holds are often wet. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Dr Smiley
Campus Mr Smiley | ||||
V7 | ★★ Mr Smiley into Vitamin C
Climb Mr Smiley across into Vitamin C or Vitamin X. | ||||
V4 | ★★ Foam
Start in the couple of pockets in the roof, explode out for the slope lip, up the prow and then continue on to finish - one of Sissy's highest problems. Classic! | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Foam (variant)
Start as for Foam, and from slopey lip move left into Mr Smiley and then back right to the jug. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Millie
Link 'Mr Smiley' into Foam - the big jug is out (use 3 finger pocket next to it). | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Vitamin C
M1, R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4, R5, M5 Good problem! Hold that last swing. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Vitamin C var
As for Vitamin C but go RH to the triangle instead of matching the high rail. No heels. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Vitamin X
Same as Vitamin C, but eliminate hold 3. | ||||
V6 | ★★ I've Got My Tie On
Just like 'Hands Off My Detonator' except that you start with a heel hook over left. FA: Mike Myers, 1995 | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Hands Off My Detonator
L6, R7, R8, L9, R10, L4, R5, M5 Classic Sissy toughie. Wait for a cold day. Many ways of doing it. No heels (or it becomes I've Got My Tie On V6) FA: Rob LeBreton, 1992 | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Re-Detonated
Start from the crimpy underclings (as for 'Spooged') and link into 'Hands Off My Detonator' | ||||
V10 | Detonator Foot Free
Hands Off My Detonator. Campussing. 2 known ascents. Sharik Walker 2nd ascent. | ||||
V11 | ★★ Sisstamatic | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Redetonate the Roof Mix
Low start to Hands Off My Detonator. FA: Matt Wrigley | ||||
V8 | Clancy
FA: Matt Gugel | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Travis
M11, L12, L10, R4, L13, M13 Another classic. Everyone has their own favourite beta, but good footwork is the key. (Becomes 'Mavis' V8 if both pinches are held before gaining edge 10- 'Contrived' and hard) FA: Peter Balint, 1992 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Mavis
The same as 'Travis' except both slopey pinches must be held before gaining the edge. Contrived but good. | 4m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Spooged
Sit start to Travis starting from a matched crimpy undercling under the roof (same as for 'Re-Detonated'). | ||||
V9 | ★★ Foam Party
Climb the start of Redetonated finishing up Foam. | 5m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Spooged Into Vitamin C
Link the start of Spooged Into Vitamin C | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Mr. Mo
| ||||
V11 | ★★ Spooge Makes Mr Bill Travis Foam And Smile Backwards
Start up Spooged, reverse Foam, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith. FA: Neil Wallace, 16 May 2015 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Buge
From the big flat hold just right of Travis Start move to the undercut just left of the Havana Pinch and pop to the sloper just right of the Detonator finish. FA: Aaron Liu | ||||
V10 | Regurgitating Buge with Cheese
FA: Sharik Walker | ||||
V9 | ★★ Havana Low
Start as for Spooged and finish up Our Man From Havana. | ||||
V7 | ★★ Our Man From Havana
M1, R2, R3, L4, M4 A classic but nasty shoulder press - You'll either find it too easy or bloody desperate. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ The Pillar
M5, R6, L3, R7, L8, M8 A nice warm up. | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ The Mind Is A Terrible Thing To Taste
A variant of 'The Pillar' but without using feet. Start on the two positive crimps on the lip and then 1,6,3,7,8 | 3m |