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Routes as sport in Candy Mountain

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Showing all 20 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
13 Kind To Be Cruel

Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. (First bolt missing) start up blocky overhanging start to second bolt then links into cruel to be kind shares anchors with DITR.

Set:

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014

Sport 12m, 5
11 Cruel To Be Kind

Easy climbing up blocky ledges. Shares anchors with DITR.

Set: Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014

Sport 12m, 5
12 Dancing In The Rain

Easy climbing up blocky moves to anchors.

Set: Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014

Sport 12m, 5
14 The Magical Liopleurodon

Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

Sport 12m, 4
17 This Mountain Tastes Nothing Like Candy

Tricky start on slopers. Climbs right hand side of bolts. It's best to stick clip the first bolt (crux is getting to 1st bolt) then a one move wonder to the second. Clip third FH passing loose blocks to final FH and anchors.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

Sport 12m, 4
17 Charlie

Contrived, shares last bolt and anchors with TMTNLC.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

Sport 12m, 4
15 More Smart More Safe

This climb starts roughly where the track meets the wall, marked "MSMS"

A nice route that follows a line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with After Dinner Delight. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

Sport 12m, 5
14 After Dinner Delight

Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD”

Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014

Sport 12m, 6
17 Critter Christmas

Start 2m R of After Dinner Delight, marked “CC”

Follow the line of 5 FHs before trending R to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Banana King. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

Sport 12m, 5
14 Banana King

Start 1m R of Critter Christmas, marked “BK”

Jug hauling past 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Critter Christmas. A high first bolt may warrant a stick clip.

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013

Sport 12m, 5
18 Cookie Monster

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013

Sport 18m, 5
17 Lichen The Candy

Start 2m R of Cookie Monster, unmarked.

Follow the line of 6 FHs to a DBB.

FFA: Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 2013

Sport 18m, 6
16 The Real Rainbow Unicorn

Start 2m R of 'Lichen the Candy'. Unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a dedicated DBB. The crux sequence will definitely keep you interested at the grade.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 2013

Sport 18m, 5
15 Glove Slap

Start 3m R of The Real Rainbow Unicorn, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with One Eyed Wanderer. Gently trend L after the 3rd bolt to find the 4th bolt (hidden from the ground) just over the ledge. Moving R here will push you onto One Eyed Wanderer and away from this bolt.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

Sport 17m, 5
18 One Eyed Wanderer

Start 1m R of Glove Slap, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Glove Slap.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

Sport 17m, 5
17 Old Elvis

Start 2m R of One Eyed Wanderer, unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs before trending R to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Papa Smurf.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

Sport 18m, 5
19 Papa Smurf

Start 2m R of Old Elvis, unmarked.

A popular line that follows 5 FHs before trending L to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Old Elvis.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

Sport 18m, 5
16 Fairy Floss

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

Sport 18m, 6
20 Happy Pants

10/15m left of Sideshow Bob. One hard move. Shares anchors with Fairy Floss.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

Sport 18m, 6
17 Charlie And The Candy Factory

Traverse the crag from left to right. Fun, easy climb with a few crimpy/compression moves to add spice. Use as many extenders as you have to minimise rope drag. Have another friend/a mobile to communicate with your belayer if it's windy!

Follow the line of least resistance: start at Kind to be cruel's first bolt. Then Dancing in the rain's 2nd bolt. Clip next climb, then the bolt hidden under the grass. Move down to Charlie's 2nd bolt. Continue at this level for the next 5 climbs. Head up to Lichen the candy's 3rd bolt, and The real rainbow unicorn's 3rd. Down to Glove slap's 2nd bolt. Down to One eyed wanderer's 1st, and Old Elvis' 1st. Up to the 2nd bolts on Papa smurf, Fairy floss and Happy pants. To finish, either climb Happy Pants to the anchor or traverse a few metres unprotected until you reach the end of the rock.

FA: Lauren Hunter, Iain Hunter & Big Steve, 6 Feb 2022

Sport 50m, 22

Showing all 20 routes.

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