Routes as trad in Western Bluff

L of Sne, the goes straight up slab veering L slightly towards the top.

The first route on the Funky Slabs. Starts 20m R of the gully and is faintly marked. Head up the nice-looking orange slab between two black streaks. Believed to be finish by walking off left down the major gully between the eastern and western bluff. Possibly no pro.

Starts 2m right of Sne at base of the R-curving mini-corner on clean slab. Faintly marked. Climbs up the slab just L of mini-corner to the first bolt at about 10m, then more slab. May be some protectable pockets on the slab. Probably finishes as per FF.

A fairly scary lead and hugely run out on very thin rusty bolts. Starts 2m R of DI. Faintly marked but extremely hard to see the paint. Up orange slab to tiny curving mini corner (pro possible) then straight over the overlap and up the slab up a few metres on flexing flakes to a thin rusty bolt. Up slab (cams) for about 8m to a bolt and then onto a big break below the headwall. Through the easiest section of this to a big ledge and natural pro belay. Walk off down major gully.

An ANZAC day memorial climb. Starts 5m R of FF.

Well protected with a full rack of cams and some small wires. Up slab for 2.5m to single pocket. Run it out easily to stance and first FH. A couple of tricky slab moves lead up to the second FH then up and slightly R to pocket (small wire). Up another few metres to pocket. Now big runout up easy slab to below overhang. Traverse L about 3m below overhang until it eases and finishes as for FF past a big cam in a horizontal (through the easiest section of overhang to a big ledge with a natural pro belay).

Starts approximately 10m R of UWF on far R of detached block, just L of the chimney. Faintly marked but hard to see the paint. Possibly no pro and look like it fully blanks out on the top section.

As you look at the RH face of Castle Hill you'll notice a big traversing bite shaped crack across the lower section. Start on the LHS of The Big Bite.

1. 40m 8. Up face slab on minimal gear, avoiding the tree & widow maker in crack, till you reach a fig tree root with an old sling on it.

2. 40m 14. Across tricky section on choss (fun) to easier but run-out section which leads to some great rock, then a long ledge. (Remember to protect 2nd.) Belay at end of ledge.

3. 30m 6. At last, heaps of gear & absolutely no stress. DBB on ledge.

4. 40m 16. Down-climb crack & slab back-clipping all the way so the 2nd, who will effectively be on lead, will be protected. If this doesn't appeal, then rap off DBB.

The Overhang provides shade all day.

Starts 3m R of detached block which forms a chimney. Faintly marked but hard to see the paint. Ascends pockets (protectable) and then an unprotected slab. Looks like it finishes on a grassy ledge below the overhang - uncertain finish & descent.

Starts 3m R of DBV. Faintly marked. Ascends the clean, low-angled orange slab on lovely flakes and pockets 7m R of large detached block. Possibly no pro or bolts - uncertain finish & descent.

Starts 4m R of Fembot. Faintly marked but extremely hard to see the paint. Slab route up nice-looking crystally rock. May have some gear a few metres off the deck, but then nothing until right up the top. Uncertain finish & descent (Maybe a walk off L and then a tree rap).

Under the far, far R-hand side of the main roof. Look up to locate the crack-corner (obvious line). Starts below and R of this. Easy slab up to the corner. The 5m corner would be the crux, on bomber med-large hexes and cams. Set of FH's at the end.

To the R of "The Big Bite" is a lump of rock which vaguely resembles Tasmania.

1. 43m 18. Start on the easy slab below this block, just L of some boulders which provide shade for the belayer. Up slab to the small headwall, aiming for the RHS of Tas. Over the wall and through some light foliage to the RH arete where you'll find a great hand crack. Up crack and step R to chains.

2. 50m 9. Up a steep bit on jugs to a slab. Traverse L up loose ramp to a ledge with DBB. Keep traversing L through the tree to chains under the chute.

3. 25m 20. Through chute and step L to greyish shallow trough (crux & peanut). Follow through, avoiding loose rock to LH slab which leads to a red slab. Finish up a red slab to triple bolt belay on small ledge.

4. 41m 9. Up little face and follow gear on a slab to top out through short gully.

(1) Rik Wittkopp, Phil Williams, Nathan Walmsley 25/10/02. (2) Rik Wittkopp, Craig Matthews, Nathan Walmsley 22/04/03. (3, 4) Rik Wittkopp, Nathan Walmsley (alt) 07/09/03

10m R of Beyond, there is a fairly obvious blocky weakness with grass growing out of it (looks like it would take gear). It is not marked with letters, but there is a very, very faint arrow pointing up. Looks like it would be okay if it wasn't vegetated. 25+m?

10m R of Arrow, there is a nice little line the follows a groove/crack up the rock. Up the crack and around a block and then up and R following the line. It would take some gear. Probably a scramble off R. Possibly hasn't been climbed before.

On the far R, there is a detached pillar that forms an offwidth corner with the main buttress.

1. Up off-width crack and avoid large loose chockstone. Continue to follow degrading crack to natural anchor belay.

2. Up grass and loos rocks. To next off-width section near the top. Up slab or crack to fig tree belay.