Routes as sport in Whakapapa Gorge

Thuggy moves on geometrical blocks through the slightly overhanging face in the middle of the wall. DBB.

Follows the line through the cave to the top of the wall. No bolted anchor. Sling large boulders at the top of the crag.

P1: (15) Start below the big round cave in the middle of the wall and climb straight up to it. DBB. (6 bolts)

P2: (17) Climb out right of the cave and continue upwards, generally right of the vague crack system. DBB. (8 bolts)

Start up the slab and navigate your way through the first overhang before continuing upwards and left to a second overhang. DBB at 9th bolt can make this two pitches, but better as one if you manage rope drag well.

P1: (26) Goes up the steep overhang directly on the left hand side of Golden wall, moving left after the third bolt. DBB. (5 bolts)

P2: (17) Second pitch as for Electric Earth.

P1: (23) Start on the left hand side of Golden Wall as for Sous Le Monde, but continue straight up. Awkward moves will bring you through the slight overhang on your left. DBB. (7 bolts)

P2: (17) Continues to the top of the wall on trad gear. (0 bolts)

Link up of electric earth into ape to angel. Start as per electric earth then go direct at the 4th bolt into ape to angel. More sustained than either of the other 2 routes and incorporates the cruxes of both, could be 25 but felt 24, however I have climbed all of these routes numerous times this week. I’ll let others decide

Immensely satisfying climbing up the middle of the styly orange face and through the bulge slightly left before charging up the face.

The central line of Golden Wall. Start as for Ape to Angel but tackles the roof directly with a crushing finish. DBB as for Arturism.

The right hand line of Golden Wall. Up the lower slab and through the roof, grappling your way around the fridge-sized block to the anchor. DBB.

Tackles the overlapping waves of overhang with thought provoking movements.

Left of Electronomicon

Climbs up the left hand side of the bulge with funky movements.

Easy (but often wet) slab leads to a steep boulder on a rope. Juggy fun to finish.

The clean pillar left of the water streak, move right at the top.

Climb on the left of the small cave.

An extra bolt was added at the bottom when it was rebolted. The old bolts are still protruding with hangers removed.

Start up the slab into the slippery V groove.

Climb the steepening slab with a sting in the tail.

Starting up left in the scoops, move up onto the slabs and finish with a tricky move to the anchor. Any guesses for who sang this song? 5 bolts, DRB (double ring bolt) anchor.

Starting in the lowest/right scoop, move right onto good holds then climb up onto slab (crux). The head wall has some good holds and moves. 5 bolts, DRB anchor.

Up the smooth lower wall (crux) which leads to the nice headwall. 5 bolts, DRB anchor.

Starting just left of the practice anchor bolts, move up the steep wall for a brief rest on the slab. Like a good movie, the climax/crux is at the very end; try not to use your belly or knees, instead use style and grace. 5 bolts, DRB anchor.

Up the clean stairway of solid blocks. Great first lead. 5 bolts, DRB anchor.

Same grade as its namesake, but about 120m shorter, although this one has 4 more bolts than the Ozzie version. 4 bolts, DRB anchor.

Named after an 80s space film. The thoughtful crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Its a little run out after that (but on easy ground) and veer slightly right to join the last 2 bolts of Moonraker. Finish on Moonraker anchor.

Have you seen the movie? Classic James Bond. And just like Bond, this climb is classy with an edge. Start by stepping right onto the slopey ledge, arrange your quickdraws, then launch up the delicate face. Finish up the tricky flaring thin double cracks and onwards to the summit and glory. 6 bolts, DRB (double ring bolt) anchor.

Another good movie, though more realistic than the last. Start at the edge of the big cave (as for Sputnik), though there is a harder direct start. Veer left onto slab then up through some thoughtful moves, finishing with mantle onto the big ledge. 4 bolts, DRB anchor.

Not a movie, but a fine piece of Russian titanium. Start at the edge of the big cave and straight up into aretes, small corners, some cool moves, and bonus free hand jams! 4 bolts, DRB anchor.

Bonus points if you can name the band who sang this song (extra bonus points if you can sing the song while climbing). Start up solid red rock, move right then up steeper finish. 5 bolts, DRB anchor.

Moon in Te Reo Maori. Up the vertical section of the wall, with some good holds and moves. A grade easier if you bail left on the top half. 5 bolts, DRB anchor.

Moon in Latin. Start by the left facing corner, blast straight up, keep your foo foo valve on while you clip the fourth bolt, then finish in the groove. 4 bolts, DRB anchor.

“That’s no moon” (Kenobi, O.W.). But it is a dyno past the first bolt, and you’ll need to overcome the tractor beam of earth to do it. Wild. Still not over after that, keep it together as you move delicately up to clip the second and third bolts. 3 bolts, DRB anchor (shares a bolt with Luna anchor).

“That’s one small step for Halfmoon crag, one giant leap for learn-to-lead crags in the CNI”. Great training for mantles, bridging, delicate footwork, and strong arms. 5 bolts, DRB anchor.