Routes as trad in Flatrock

Description Starts on 4 bolts of face climbing through small holds and crimps, might feel like 5.10 around 3rd bolt (crux) until you figure out the beta. Top section contains easier climbing following a widening crack from wide hands to offwidth. Two very different styles of climbing but enjoyable throughout. I found a perfect rack to be 2x #3 and a #4, but could definitely safely climb without a #4, or sew the top section up with a #5, #6.

There is lots of loose rock above this climb, I trundled all the large stuff I could, and rock shouldn't be disturbed if the rap anchor is used, but caution is always advised.

Location At the beginning of Main Face in the blasted section. on the left face of a corner, often shaded when other routes are sunny.

Protection 4 bolts, gear 2"-4", rappel anchor

Description Start in thin cracks on blocks before stepping right into the wide crack. A variety of jams and / or face holds in and around the crack can be used to reach the top.

Location The obvious wide crack around 20ft left of MC Hammer.

Protection Standard rack with bigger gear. Probably want a #5 if it's at your limit. Bolt anchor.

Scramble up a block to start and then up a finger crack to a rappel anchor at the top. Standard rack <1",

Start left of the corner and climb in the corner past the bolt until a ledge on the right. Then follow a hand crack to the top. Two-bolt rappel anchor suitable for top-roping. Standard rack <3"

Start under the first bolt and go diagonally right into the corner. Climb through the roof while avoiding the ledge to the left. The ledge is good for a rest but it makes your next few moves more difficult. Finish at rappel anchor. Standard rack <2".

Start in the flaring crack until the first roof, traverse right and up onto a small ledge. Move left and through another roof section past a bolt to the top. Two-bolt rappel anchor. Standard rack <3"

Climb starts in the middle of the face at a small left-facing nub. Leads up through a small crack past the first bolt. That crack closes just below the second bolt, follow through it to the two-bolt rappel. Standard rack <3"

Start just to the right of Nubbin under the first bolt and follow the right-facing feature past the second bolt. Go straight up to the third bolt and finish left at the same rappel anchor as Nubbin.

This route follows the left-facing corner. Recently the bottom has fallen away which makes the route from what was 5.8 (in NCG, 2007) to a 5.10d. No rappel Anchor although you can lower off chains from Iron Hand.

Best to use a stick clip for the first bolt as it's above the roof section. Climb through the roof section up to the second bolt and upwards to a small ledge with a two-bolt rappel anchor.

A very popular route. Start in the corner and move left through big holds. Sometimes worth placing a piece of gear between bolts 4/5. Uses same rappel anchor as Ass Master.

Note: A 075 camelot or similar goes very well. Anchor can be made out of one 12M cordalette tied by a double fisherman's knot & four locking carabiners, or similar.

Start to the right of Candy on the right-facing corner. Stay in the corner all the way to the ledge at the top, then move left to the rappel anchors for Ass Master.

Start in the middle of the face with good holds. Move left through the roof section and continue through the bolts up to the top. Good gear placement in between the 4th bolt and rappel anchor if required.

Start at the left side of Flaccid Ledge, small crimpy holds until the crux past the second bolt. Possibly use gear here as a fall could be messy. Tops out at rappel anchor.

Start in the middle of the ledge up some small horizontal cracks. Towards the top holds get bigger and better. If required, use gear between the third bolt and the rappel anchors.

Start on the far right of Flaccid ledge. Climb up the arete through the first bolt and up the crack to the right topping out at rappel anchors. Standard rack <2"

Starts to the right of "Wet Chalk", there's a good double crack system that is more competent than it seems. Climb towards the dark patch to the top left and proceed about 5m past all the other climbs to the rappel anchor. Shares a top. Standard rack <4" (mostly 1"-4")

Starts just to the right of Noggin' and follows a dark streak right to the top. Starts easy and gets a little harder towards the top. Double rappel anchor as well as shared top-belay anchor with Noggin'. Standard rack <4". Gear is good at the bottom but the top section is a little run out.

Description Climb the dark streak between Noggin and Spray Down with some interesting moves around flakes and blocks at the bottom before getting a little trickier towards the top.

Description Face climb past three slightly spaced bolts to a rest ledge, then climb the overhanging face above with some good but small gear. Pull the small roof on the right to a large ledge and top out via the wide easy crack to a three bolt anchor.

Protection three bolts, standard rack with micro cams, bolt anchor

Description A very exciting climb; while all the hard moves are protected this is not bolted like a modern sport route and some falls off easier sections may be dangerous. Start as per Good Country Lovin', but at the third bolt make a long, runout traverse left and continue up to the fourth bolt. Tricky and engaging face climbing leads past two more bolts, then 20 feet of gear protected climbing with a memorable mantle leads to the top.

Protection 6 bolts, 2.5 - 5" cam for the first horizontal, 0.5 - 1.5" cams for the easy top section. Three bolt anchor

Description A harder direct start for Gabe. Hard, thin climbing similar to Screaming Life past three spaced bolts, then join the fourth bolt of Gabe and continue as per that route.

Protection Bolts, couple cams for the top of Gabe

A very classic route. 5 sport bolts, trad section, one more bolt, option to use the right bolt of the "Ledge Dweller" anchor as the last piece on the route, and new toprope glue-in bolts installed September 2020.

Top HANGERS are on the top of the ledge for creating an anchor from the top access - note that the hike down is quite the scramble, and it is not possible to rappel nor thread & lower off the higher anchor bolts.

Check the hangers to see if they are spinning. They can be tightened with an adjustable wrench.

Trad gear: Cams 2''-0.75''

Description Probably the most famous/well-known route on the island. Classic! Start in thin cracks on blocks before stepping right into the wide crack. A variety of jams and / or face holds in and around the crack can be used to reach the top.

Location The route to the right of "Maggie", and left of "Seascape" and "Fifth Element". The obvious wide crack around 20ft left of MC Hammer.

Protection Standard rack with bigger gear. Probably want a #5 if it's at your limit. Bolted anchor with rounded edges glue-ins. One bolt. Anchor set up is 2x two foot slings and four locking carabiners, or similar.

Note this route shares a top ledge with Maggie. It is possible to set up a toprope on this route from a scramble down from the top... There are loose rocks on this scramble so it is possible to knock down rocks onto climbers below. It is also a sketchy scramble.

It is possible to set up a toprope on this route after having clipped the higher anchor (the one with two hangers) on the ledge on Maggie while still on belay. NOTE: This really really takes a lot of time, is sketchy, and actually sort of sucks because the ropes get all tangled up.

Neither of these is convenient, setting up a toprope might be best done by leading the route on gear.

Description Start in the same place as Yellow fever and then traverse right onto the arete and follow the bolts up using both sides of the arete until you hit the crux right before the end.

Protection Gear to 1" for the start then 5 bolts. Bolted anchor on top.

Description Start in the same place as Yellow fever and after the start traverse right past a large flake. Go up the face to the right of the flake past a small roof and straight to the top.

There is a large traverse at the start of this so long slings are recommended to avoid rope drag. Also care must be taken when top roping because of the potential swing.

Protection 1 bolt and gear to 2". Rappel anchor on top.

Description Start in the corner under the roof to the right of the Yellow Fever start and climb out around the right side to follow the bolts left and join back up with the main Seascape route.

Protection 4 bolts and gear to 2". Rappel anchor on top.

Description An excellent alpine-like climb that brings you over varied terrain with a thrilling, airy finish. Don't forget to take in the view.

The crux is right after the "thank-god bolt" as you transition out of the corner.

The route is most often cleaned by a second. The route requires a 70m rope to rappel (tie rappel knots!), however, this is not recommended. A 4th class scramble (a very reasonable party may elect to rope up) brings you to Yellow Fever ledge, where a rappel is straightforward.

Location Starts at the obvious crack just right of "A Fine Line Between Fear and Flying."

Protection Standard rack up to #3, bolted anchor at 35m.

From memory (change if updated): To set up a toprope after having lead the route, a lot of anchor gear is required. 3x 10M cordalette loops, maybe slings? & 6+ locking carabiners... or maybe even a rope. As the bolts are far from each other, there is a slight scramble to get to one from the other.

Description Follow a very obvious large feature crack / flake to a small ledge. Great place to rappel into spanky's. Starts on and belay from boulder underneath climb. Easiest climb out of spanky's.

Location About 1/5 of the way from the far left of spanky's to the far right.

Protection No bolts. Trad with bolts at the ledge for an anchor.

Description Starts just to the right of 'Kiddy Crack' under the small roof sector. Navigate a couple tricky but light moves and follow the diagonal feature until you join 'Kiddy Crack'. Location 1/5 of the way from the far left to the far right of 'Spanky's Playground'

Lots of medium size scramble boulders in this area. Protection No bolts. Trad or Top Rope. Bolts at the ledge for anchor.

Description Fun but short climb. Good placements for beginning trad climbers. Follow crack up and top out to finish. Location Just to the left of the approach scramble, and to the right of the large boulders near the usual rappel spot. Protection Single rack for climb and anchor

Description Follow the hand crack straight up to a 2-bolt anchor. Also serves as a good rappel access to the bottom of the climbs.

Location North end near a series of other climbs. To the left of Insomnia corner.

Protection Rappel bolts accessible from the top.

Description Start by climbing up a thin seam (RP's) to the edge of the first roof about 20 feet up. Climb the corner above this roof then traverse under the second roof via the slab on the right until it is possible to top out the climb.

The route is trickier than it looks, and doesn't really let up until you're standing on top. Location This climb goes up the big roof at the far right side of Spankies. Protection RP's & Ballnuts + Standard rack to 2". I also used a crash pad on the (assumed) FA. Gear Anchor - same belay as "Retreat".

Description This is a fun route, with unique and interesting climbing. It climbs the giant roof to the climbers right of the Breech Boulder. It is made even more fun by the fact that the beginning of the route is underwater even at low tide.

Wait until the waves draw back enough, then quickly run to the base and perform a few slippery crack and layback moves (crux). Getting to the base may take few attempts. Dry your feet and climb this quickly widening crack into the slot to the ceiling. Take the path of least resistance right and up through the chimney/roof to the top. Remember to back-clean some pieces to protect your second. Location To the right of the Breech Boulder, starts in a right facing corner. Protection Standard rack from 0 mastercam to #6 camalot. Make sure you have a #5 and 6 or two #5's. Long slings to alleviate rope drag. Gear belay.

Description Follow the sharp crack straight up. Connect to a large hand ledge and two horizontal cracks. Continue up the vertical crack until the bolt anchor is just to your left. Very short but very easy to access with quick scramble to the anchor. A great climb for beginners who haven't climbed outside. This is one of the shortest and least intimidating crags I've been at.

Protection 2 bolts at the anchor. Trad rack or Top Rope only. Toprope anchor: Two 2 foot slings or 1 240cm sling.

Follow the easy crack in between the two cracks which have bolted anchors , "Sharp Teeth" and "Unnamed Dihedral". No bolted anchor at the top. Not a convenient toprope.

Description Climb up a a 10 foot face with a hand crack to your right. Reach a series of small ledges leaning rightward into a sloping dihedral. There are some alternate starts that finish at the same anchor that will be added later. To the left a series of jugs heading up and to the right, meeting the ledges. To the right, a series of smaller features goes up and to the left meeting a horizontal ledge and crack. Finish along the ledges, or stay right and lean off the arete on small careful footing.

Protection 2 bolts at the anchor. Trad or Top Rope only. Toprope anchor: Two 2 foot slings or 1 240cm sling.

Description Climb the balancy, shallow crack next to the corner

Protection Top rope only. The anchors are a long way back from the edge so long cord or slings are needed. Suggested sample anchor is two 10M slings, a 240cm sling, and a 120cm sling.

Description Overhanging face climbing past flaring horizontal cracks. Probably not a safe trad lead, better to rappel down it first unless you can confidently downclimb or solo 5.11.

Protection Toprope Anchor. Shared bolts with "Here's Johnny" and "Blood and Guts"

Description More overhanging face climbing past flaring horizontal cracks. Not a safe trad lead, at least one person has decked and broken bones after a lead attempt. A good candidate for bolting.

Protection Top anchor. Shared bolts with "Here's Johnny" and "Hang Ten"

Description Climb the crack in the corner past a low crux to easier climbing near the top.

Protection Rack up to 3". Bolted anchors at the top but they are very far back so you need a lot of cord. 10M cordalette and slings.

Description Start by reaching to the back of a body sized crack for a good hold and climb up into the double crack system. Hug the two cracks, lay back or use your crack climbing skills to get to the top.

Location Immediately to the right of the Blood Bath dihedral

Protection Rack up to 4". Bolted anchor on top are very far back so you need a lot of cord.

Description Climb side pulls and crimps up the face to some reachy moves from the mid point up to a good hold before the finish.

Location A few feet to the right of Shake 'n' Bake starting under a good flake for your right hand.

Protection Top rope only. Bolted anchors very close to the edge. Can be set up with two one-foot slings.

Description Climb the corner crack starting from the big, elevated ledge. A decent beginner lead.

Protection Standard Rack, top bolts for toproping. Can bet set up with two 2ft slings or 1 240cm sling.

Description The double crack system just right of the large ledge. The start can consist of a left sidepull for the left hand leaning the body with the right hip to the wall, a right jug on the horizontal crack, and feet on some of the features underneath. The climb then proceeds to the anchor, following the right crack as the holds get slightly bigger at the end, with pebbly footholds on the way up.

Location Start to the right of the ledge of "Little Jack's Corner" and to the left of the start for "Grunt".

Protection There is currently a two-bolt anchor at the top for top-roping/anchor set up. This anchor can be set with two one-foot slings and four (locking) carabiners, or a similar configuration with other gear such as a cordelette and/or sling webbing.

To lead the route, standard trad rack, with an emphasis on small cams.

Pull through the roof from the ground on the left hand side and either go up a little before trending right or traversing immediately. Use the cracks and tension to work your way to the top. Super strenuous for the grade but no particularly hard moves.

Protection Rack to 3" with an optional bigger piece at the top. Glue-in 2 bolt anchor installed in fall 2020. Can be set up with two 2 ft slings. Previously, a gear anchor was used.

Description This climb is mostly the same as the toprope route "Jump Start" 5.11a in the Newfoundland Climbing Guide. From the FA:

"From the topo, and from my recollection, The Art of Body Karate looks to be around where Jump Start is. Or slightly to the left? I think it’s the thin seam just to the left of Jump Start. I recall it involves some thin finger jamming and some very cool high-kick body karate moves (hence the name)"

-Greg Foote

Protection Glue-in bolted anchor installed Fall 2020. Can be set up with one 240cm sling. Shares an anchor with "Jump Start"

Standard rack with an emphasis on small cams, if leading.

On the same bolted anchor as "The Art of Body Karate.

This climb starts with a 'jump start,' to the features and crack above.

Description Thrash up the flared chimney, which becomes easier as you approach the top. Crux to start the route. Caution that getting to this route on the ground from the left might be slippery.

Protection Bolted anchor set back over the edge, with another bolt for top-belaying. Likely a well protected lead with a standard rack. Can be set up with two two-foot slings or one 240cm sling.

Bolted anchor on the corner to the right of "Sue Be Doo". Glue-in anchor bolts installed Fall 2020. Caution that getting to this route from the ground from the left might be slippery. Can be set up with two 2ft slings or one 240 cm sling.

Description Climb the series of sharp pockets trending left before topping out either left using the last pocket or with a big move straight up.

Protection For a toprope anchor, this can be set from the top using two two-foot slings and four locking carabiners, or similar.

For leading it on gear, "Small gear in the crystal pockets".

Climb the parallel finger cracks.

In an otherwise underwhelming area this is a little gem of a route. Just a shame it isn't longer or it could be a classic.

Climb the obvious crack feature starting off with laybacking before hitting a slot that takes everything from finger locks to fists. From the slot climb up through a jug to a thin hand crack leading to the top.

Protection

For toprope, Bolt anchor on top. Can be set up with two two foot slings and four locking carabiners, or similar.

For trad, Extremely bomber protection. Could easily be climbed with a rack to 1" but also takes gear up to 4".

Climb the obvious crack to the top.