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Routes as trad in Helvetestinden

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Showing all 11 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
6- Left Approximation

FA: Ole Klingeman & Eggert Keller, 1997

Trad 18
7- AID:A0 PROT:R - X Terrs i mar

A serious and sandbagged line with a death pitch up high and some difficult route finding. Not recommended. Topo here

Some images here:

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More images and brief desription

FA: Jordi Esteve & Gerber Cucurell, 2015

Trad 630m, 16
6+ AID:A3 Thirst in the clouds

An abandoned Arild Meyer line completed by a Russian team with some aid in 2009. Topo here

FA: Orujov Alex & et al, 2009

Trad 16
7- Noensfoten

Topo here

FA: Salvador Llorens & Guillermo Cuadrado, 2015

Trad 570m, 14
6+ PROT:R Ticket to Greenland

A serious and sandbagged line with some difficult route finding and very loose rock from pitch 5 upwards. Not recommended. Topo here

Images here:

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FA: Lukas Marecek & Jiří Švihálek

Trad 12
6+ The Next Best Thing
1 6 60m
2 6+ 40m
3 6+ 50m
4 6+ 30m
5 5 40m
6 5 50m
7 5 50m
8 4 55m
  1. Up the corner on jugs then slabs to a grassy crack. Belay at a good stance below grassy ledges. A long pitch with some short runouts at the beginning.

  2. Out left from the grassy ledge & into the base of a left to right corner system. 5/10m of easy stuff then head out onto the arête where there´s a short sequence of hard moves. Continue until reaching a band of darker rock. Step right here to a small stance at the base of a dihedral.

  3. Steep finger jamming up the diherdral. Belay at good stance in a corner. An excellent pitch

  4. Straight up (loose) then out right where a short steep section gains the terrace.

  5. Ignore the guidebook and go straight up the clean crack to a good ledge.

  6. Rock quality deteriorates from here. There´s a comfy belay ledge 20m past the roof.

  7. More of the same to another big ledge on the corner.

  8. Og igjen..

> A short with Katie Lambert & Caroline George on NBT

Some images-

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FA: Odd-Roar Wiik & Adam Stack, 2005

Trad 380m, 8
7 PROT:R Norwegian Sheep Ranch

One of the routes with better rock on Helvetestinden. The first pitch is softer than 7 (6+) but long (60m+) & bold. Double 3s & a 4 recommended for P3 (7-). Pitch 4 is long but closer to N6.

FA: Tommy Caldwell & Beth Rodden, 2005

Trad 6
6- Highway to hell
1 4+ 40m
2 5 55m
3 6- 60m
4 4+ 90m

Perhaps the most popular route to the summit

FA: Åsmund Vaage & Steinar Holden, 2016

Trad 250m, 5
7- Tradicionarius
1 5+
2 6-
3 6
4 6
5 7-
6 5

FA: Salvador Llorens & Guillermo Cuadrado, 2015

Trad 250m, 6
7+ Första approximationen
1 5 10m
2 6 30m
3 7+ 20m
4 3+ 70m

FA: Joakim Söderström & Jonas Wiklund, 2010

Trad 130m, 4
6+ Första approximationen direkt

The direct finish to Första approximationen

Trad 20m

Showing all 11 routes.

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