Routes in Lake Cliff

Climb the short wall between the two trees. Gain the dihedral ramp and follow it until you can work your way through the crux to reach the hand sized crack that splits the main face. Plug bomber gear until you reach the big rest ledge. Step back onto the face and clip the bolt. A few easy moves lead to the top ledge with a bolted anchor on the half wall.

About 20 m left of sport routes on big slab. Start at the lowest point on the left corner of the slab. Make a series of moves trending left requiring good balance and slab technique until you can gain a small ledge with a horizontal seam of black rock and a small roof above. Use the black rock to pull up to and go left around the roof into a dihedral. Use the lip of the sloping ledge on your right and pull over it to find the bolted anchor (or option to step left and clip lone bolt on BrOkleys and carry on to that anchor).

Leftmost climb in this grouping, about 2 m left of "Steady as she goes". Up the large slab with a weakness trending left. Climb past a ledge and through the chimney to the bolted anchor. Decent protection throughout.

Recleaned September 2022 but could use another pass.

Start on the built dirt platform and head the low angle slab on the left. No real hard moves. The crux will be finding all the gear placements to keep your head cool. The route mostly takes nuts, including offsets, and will test your IQ on using them.

There were doubts about needing to bolt this climb. However, on the FA, 9 pieces of gear went in...

Leftmost bolted line on this slab.

Second bolted line from the left on this slab, just left of YDB. Start up a steep face at the very base of this big slab. Crux is at the bottom.

Gain the right trending blocks and then up past the piton and two bolts. Continue into the distinct crack and pull onto the large ledge near the top. Finish with a couple of moves up the crack to the bolted anchor just below the trees.

[Closed Project]

Start a few meters left of the dihedral. Follow the rightward trending cracks and step into the dihedral when they run out. Once on top of the dihedral, do some nifty moves to gain the bulge above by going just a bit left (two bolts here). Then traverse back right to get to the exit crack and the bolted anchor. Guessing that most the route goes around 5.8 but the bit that is bolted is likely 10-.

[Closed project]

Start in the dihedral left of "From Kingston with Love". Up and left to the big ledge. Then move right onto the face and continue ever upward to a wide ledge and a bolted anchor. Might be around 5.9.

[Closed Project]

Potential route through face just right of the new bolted route. Depending on the exact line could be around 5.10b?

Needs to be bolted and cleaned a lot more.

Direct technical line up to anchors of From Kingston with Love. Looking for consensus on a letter grade.

Start on Brokedown Palace. At the fifth bolt, cut left across the roof then head up a technical, crimpy crux before mantling onto a large ledge. Look left and finish up the inside corner.

Hardware provided through a climbing community fundraiser.

Follow the line of bolts up to the right of a small roof, then start plugging gear as you make your way up a diagonal of right facing flakes. At the large horizontal crack, look for the weakness that’ll take you straight up the steep face above.

Originally led ground-up with a pin or two – which were then replaced by bolts (the existing second and fourth). Additional bolts were added to the start in 2022 with the FA’s permission.

Start at a tree beneath the overhanging wall about 5m left of Termagant Dihedral. Climb the dead tree until you can step across onto the slab. Climb the nice slab on good rock until it is possible to escape right before the roof. Better protection and easier climbing to the right may be possible if slab is cleaned.

Start at the tree grouping about 30 feet left of the obvious arrete. Make your way up and right to reach the crack system. From here, the climbing gets gradually harder. The original FA went through the roof, but escaping right is possible making it a number grade easier. Beautiful movement on beautiful rock!

Modern free variation of Training for the Alpine

Not a sport route! Recommend stick clipping first bolt. Start on the right side of this very distinct aréte, delicately dance to the left and up past another bolt. Step left into a small groove from which some stellar crack climbing starts. Follow the crack up and then left to finish on a pedestal, bolted anchor. Single rack.

Accessible from the top by lowering from the rap-in anchor (see decription for Termagant Dihedral) and aiming climbers left.

Just right of a very distinct arete. Start up the crack in the dihedral and eventually escape the big overhang to the left and to the bolted anchor. Historically rated 5.8, but is comparable to 5.10b climbs in the area.

As of October 2022 there is a rapel anchor to lower to the top of this climb. Follow the trail all the way past the right end of the cliff, then head up and back along the top until you find a rope leading down a drop onto a good ledge and to that anchor. Termagant Dihedral's anchor is straight down, about 15 m. You can also easily access the anchor for Open Book / Hanging Dihedral, slight climbers right, and much higher than Termagant's.

Climb Termagant Dihedral and instead of exiting left, do a tricky traverse to the right below the roof, to a stance at the base of the open book. Climb the aesthetic finger crack that eases higher up and ends at the ledges with a 2 bolt anchor shared with the Hanging Dihedral. Bring a few long slings for the traverse.

Recleaned December 2022.

This climb starts at the base of the huge boulder that divides the "Left Side" and "Right Side". The first climbs at "Right Side" are right next to this one, but start on top of the huge boulder right of this climb.

Start behind a large arrowhead shaped block that threatens to turn you into a hand puppet the higher you climb past it. Climb atop the block, then up the thin flakes to the first bolt, then pull onto the face to reach a stance. Continue past a large hollow looking flake then make delicate face moves to reach the first overlap. A few thrilling moves with bolts take you up and right to the base of the right-facing hanging dihedral. Continue up dihedral and make awkward exit to the left onto the large ledge shared with Open Book. Climb ledges to the shared 2-bolt anchor (30m rap).

Can be top-roped with some rope-drag by accessing the anchor from above using the rap-in anchor. Recleaned December 2022.

The left-most of three climbs start on top of the huge boulder. Start by going up the boulders on the left side of this area. Then follow cracks up and left to skirt the left edge of the roof. Then finish up a nice crack to the bolted anchor. Likely harder than modern 5.8.

Recleaned (Nov 23).

Climb up the very obvious right-facing flake, toward a small roof. Step right before you get to the roof, then up toward a large roof. Escape leftwards past the roof. Continue up and left to the bolted anchor. Good protection throughout. Historical grade of 5.4.

From the anchor you can follow a rope out (can be used for top-rope access as well - access cliff top on the far right) or to a rapel anchor to lower into Termagant Dihedral, Hanging Dihedral, and the Falcon Strikes Back. Recleaned Fall 2022.

Needs to be recleaned.

Climb Marcus’ route to a ledge capped by roofs and traverse right to a short left - facing dihedral capped by another roof. Aid through the roofs to a sloping ledge at the base of a longer left - facing dihedral and continue to the top. Thin.

This route has a bit of everything, with an outstanding view!

Stick clip a high first bolt and work through a techy slab boulder before you mantle onto the ledge. Climb through another crux to progressively easier climbing until you reach the no hands rest. Find the your way through the bulges to a pumpy crux where the anchor is in your face but you can’t clip it.

The ledges around the no hands rest are used by the falcons to clean their kills before feeding them to their young. In years where falcons are using the nest don’t be surprised if you’re climbing through the remains of their kills in fall.

Long climb that leads into the big roof above. Route is closed due to Big death blocks that need to be removed, 1 bolt missing and cleaning needs to be done. Equip by Joe Skopec

Climb up a very narrow short ramp (or the thin half - moon cracks to its right), then up past the one bolt, traverse right and then up the left-facing corner crack. Climb past the anchor for "Fast Dreams" (on your right) and continue to the bolted anchor. Good protection throughout. Historically rated 5.8.

Recleaned 2023.

Start below an obvious flake at the left edge of the steep, clean wall. Climb the flake then move right to a short left - facing corner/seam. Climb through a hard and reachy boulder problem up and right before moving back left. Continue up the vertical wall to the lower off.

Start just right of Fast Dreams, just left of a ramp (often wet). Climb straight up the face, staying just left of the wet ramp. A series of underclings leads to a very hard boulder crux. Continue up and left through tricky 5.11 climbing to the lower off.

Shares the same start of Piton Route but then follows the bolt line up the centre of the wall.

Extended draws for the first three bolts recommended.

(Please note this route can't be bolted direct due to the massive detached block)

Follow a clear ramp up and right. Protection is decent, but bring small gear for the last section before the bolted anchor. Recleaned September 2022.

Starts just before the base rises up sharply. Start at the right trending crack, gain first shelf. Aim up and right to the next shelf and then up along the dihedral. Keep following bolts through the steep finish to the shared anchor with Piton Route.

Keep your eye out for some old pitons, but this is now bolted for sport. Be careful in the dihedral about 3 bolts up. There is still some loose stuff in the crack behind the block that should be removed.

Shares the first 6 bolts with Illuminati. After bolt 6 follow the diagonal crack up and left. Clip the first sleeve bolt (no nut/thread) and use some citizen science creativity to get through the crux. Power through the small holds and NASA propaganda to clip the anchor. Congratulations, the earth is still not flat.

For bonus points, at bolt 5 use the undercling/side pull out left to stay on the face.

Start in the little gully under the first bolt. Work the v0 boulder problem start and gain the slab. Cruse straight up to the crystal filled crack. Crimp up the crack until it runs out then head right a bit. Head up the pink face to the chains. Stick clip recommend.

Start in the small dihedral. Head up the slab into a larger dihedral. Avoid the temptation to head left out of the dihedral or you will end up on "Illuminati" and have a harder finish. Exit the top of the dihedral heading right and up to the chains.

Start directly under the first bolt. Climb though the sweet slab and mantle you way to the headwall. Find the crystal filled diagonal crack and work your way up into the shallow, broken dihedral on the right and up to the anchors.

Start between the two trees. Go up the friendly slab, then make your way through the delicious jugs. Gain the ledge and contemplate your choices in life. Believe in yourself, find the crimps and sidepulls. You got this! Send it!

Work though low overhang bulge onto the ledge and work your way though the crimpy face and quartz filled crack.

Jam though the nice hand crack right of the overhanging bulge to gain the ledge. Work up the flake and crimps into easier ledges. Removal of a leaning flake has increased the difficulty of this route and made the moves above the ledge a bit sketchy. Another bolt may be added between 3 and 4 to make it safer.

Climb onto the ledge, then the block. From there, enjoy an easy boulder problem to the finish.