Routes

ATTENTION: There can be a Bee Hive on this route, take care.

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.

The crack.

Start: 3.5m right of CC.

Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above.

Try to stay out of the chimney, then finish up the crack on the R. The direct finish has also been done by Peter Lindorff.

Start just R of the descent chimney.

Another awesomely steep line.

Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp.

A link-up of the first part of 'Bandwagon' into the finish of 'Passionate Tips'.

Start: Start as for B.

Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots. Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.

1. 15m (15) Excellent finger layback crack on right wall of gully. Gear is excellent but pumped desperate leaders have run it out in the past and taken large falls.

2. 35m (15) Up the widening crack and left across the sickle into Holpyp. Up over the roof and carry on.

Start at a crack just right of the second pitch of Conifer Crack. This looks ordinary but it makes for a good continuation from Horn Piece or the other single pitches that lead to the big ledge.

The rounded arete to the ledge, then a poorly protected grey slab and orange overlap. If you want a boring but better protected finish try the crack on the right.

Start: Start at the arete just R of F.

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others! A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, continue following the crack veering left to find a belay stance and natural anchor.

Start 3m L of a gumtree at R end of the wall. Up the intermittent L line of the faint twin lines then featured slab to anchor. Hard and tricky to protect start. 30m abseil.

The first and third pitches are good. It's best to run pitches 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 together, then you get two good, long pitches followed by an easy pitch off.

Start below and L of the big overhangs, on the lower section of Dunes Buttress, at a layback crack.

1. 35m (16) Up the corner for 6m, then swing up L past overhang onto slab. Trend L into bushy territory, then R into dirty groove to Arab's 3rd belay.

2. 12m (-) Step L and up to small stance. Best to keep going up the next pitch rather than belay here.

3. 33m (16) Go 2m R then up excellent grey crack. (A grade 8 variant established by the three Gledhills on 14/1/68 goes straight up the deep crack into the chimney on pitch 4).

4. 34m (-) Ramble onwards, veering left at spacious sloping ledge

3m up Lennox, then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams. Start as for L.

Worth doing? Yes. Worth a star? hmm...

Start: Start in the middle of the slim S face of 'Fang Buttress'.

Up then traverse L across lip.

Start: Start 4m R of ALM.

Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle. Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

Start down R from Recent Theft.

1. 30m (13) Short wall to ledge, and step R. The next section, up the peapod corner and then some face moves rightwards, is great. Easy ground leads 15m up and left to a large ledge. This pitch is actually borrowed from Lock-Up; Bulger originally started further up left, 5m R of Unrequited, and traversed in to climb the not-as-good rambly pedestal.

2. 30m (15) The steep corner crack, with airy hand jamming.

Great first pitch up face left of Skylark. Second pitch is a bit scrappy until a good finishing headwall.

1. 55m (16) Start just left of Skylark and make your way up and left to left side of bulge. Continue up face more easily but with a couple of runouts to good ledge and ring-bolts..

2. 33m (16) Easy face up left to bolt rap anchors, go left a bit then up and back right under bulge then up right side of bulge and up towards left side of headwall. Committing moves up onto headwall until able to traverse right and eventually to rap anchor at Flinders Lane,

In the shade for most of the day, so a good one to do when's it's hot. Oh, and the good bit may be short but it's feisty. Originally graded 12! Below the L-facing grey corner at the R end of the wall. Wander up to the corner, and jam it until it eases, then continue up to the arete. Rap anchor (30m) on finishing ledge (to the R).

Start: 3m R of 'Chinese Algebra' at dog-leg crack.

1. 35m (18) Up smooth bulgy rock, past some old pins, then take RH crack to ledge (rap-anchor - 30m).

2. 20m (16) Easy short wall to ledge.

3. 10m (18) Crack through summit overhang. Rap slings - 60m to ground or 30m to P1 anchors.

The lovely water-streak 5 metres right of 'Happy Balance' has a hard, poorly protected start.

Great climbing up the green crack 3 metres right of 'Hand Job'.

Layback corner then L into the "condemned cell", which takes some escaping! Great moves continue above, trending slightly L. Top anchor is several bits of rope/tat with a mallion. Walk over the top of the pinnacle, with a short down-climb to a rap anchor behind boulder.

Start: Start at the L-facing corner at the R end of the main face.

Cute little thing starting 20m up right from 'Death Row'. Crack to ledge, then seam up grey face.

A route on this pinnacle for the mere mortal. A fun climb!

The lovely thin crack.

Quite a nice, subtle climb. Start up the flake on the left wall of the chimney-gully right of I Can't Breathe for 3 metres then go diagonally left to finish up I Can't Breathe

Good, sustained jam crack up left wall of 'Heckle'. Take a few large cams or hexes.

Graded 15 by Mentz & Tempest, Arapiles Selected Climbs Guide Book.

The very technical, bouldery start was always a bit of a shock to people expecting a grade 14! The rest of the route is substantially easier.

Not quite but you can't blame them for trying. Take the right-left diagonal all the way. Be careful at the end where the tendency is to run it out a little but the ground below is not all that far away.

A neat route featuring a classy and thought-provoking first pitch.

Start: Start just right of the chimney splitting this face (sundance).

1. 40m (19) Up the slab to the crack and good gear and a funky mantle to bolt (2nd bolt spins in the hole but can be backed up with a pink Camp tricam). Step right (pocket, small profile cam or tricam) and slabby moves lead to more good climbing and another bolt and on to ledge and belay bolt.

2. 27m (17) Move right to the prominent nose, bridge past its left side and up to ledge. Move 6 metres right to belay below tiny, right-facing corner.

3. 22m (17 R) Up the little corner with marginal gear until it fades and continue boldly up wall. Technical bulge leads to 'Rotten Row'.

4. 48m (14) Up easy flake behind conifer then steeply up to horizontal break at 20 metres. Short left-leading corner then veer left and up.

A good easy route on a great wall deserves a star. Pitch 2 is really good and eats cams. Great on a warm day.

Start: Down and right of the other routes is a prominent crack leading to a bottomless chimney.

1. 13m (17) Crack and chimney to terrace.

2. 29m (16) Easily up on right for 3 metres to the big diagonal ledge/break. Traverse down left to the end of the break and step left onto the wall. Continue up steep, juggy wall right of "Going For The One".

Tenuous climbing into the orange scoops that would have been very scary before microcams. Deserves to be climbed more often and might be now that the abseil anchor has gone in

Put up in a rainstorm during which a child almost drowned in Central Gully!

Start: Start below line of orange scoops.

1. 25m (15) Climb easily up just left of the smooth face to orange rock and up into the line to the overhang. Traverse right and then back left above the overhang to rap-anchor.

2. 30m (9) Abseil off of follow jugs up the line.

Great flake line which can be escaped at half-height but why would you?

Follow left weakness through bulge (as for Honeycomb) then up flake-line above until it rejoins arete. Continue to top, taking care with some hollow rock.

Absorbing climbing on immaculate rock. Originally the second pitch of a 2-pitch route; the first pitch is now The First Affinity. Start 5 metres down and right of large conifer.

An enjoyable pitch with an exciting crux. Start 4m R of Affinity.

Up weakness to the right of Side Show following left-facing flake system to the roof. Head left along under this until an exit can be made straight up to rap station. For a more exciting finish (still grade 18), go straight through the weakness in the roof

Start: Two metres right of Side Show, a vague "E" can be found scratched on the rock

Two good pitches with quite a hard start.

1. 40m (16) There are two ways to reach the layback flake, either head up left from the base of the wide crack or climb directly up the pocketed slab. Follow the layback flake to face above on right and now up and right to main corner. A good ledge at 18 metres can be a good belay. The corner gives easy climbing to a ledge where it ends.

2. 35m (12) Straight up steeply for 5 metres then up wall above, starting on right.

Dramatic route but the rock can be quite alarming. The route originally only had the top pitch. They scrambled up the gully to the first belay. The first pitch was originally part of Youth In Asia. The climb is often done as a single long pitch.

Start about 3 metres right of the initial C, but there's no good reason not to start a few metres further right directly below the box-chimney.

1. 20m (14) Follow right-ward arching line that leads to box-chimney. Up left side of this (careful of loose flakes on right) then exit right to ledge.

2. 25m (17) Follow v-groove up wildly-steep arete.

Face left of "Armageddon" to orange bulge which is turned on right. The bulge has been taken direct at 20 via a line half a metre left of this one.