Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago - Edited about two years ago




Beware of some bolts on the Pocketed Wall that have started to loosen. Take a spanner to tighten.

Access issues inherited from Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice:

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

A long way from anywhere.

Start: Takes the crack 40m left of 'Country Mile', with a steep start and finish. Identifiable as the only continuous line out of several in the area and is rather vegetated.

FA: Stuart Willis & James McIntosh, 1987

James and Melanie were far from civilization when they found this line!

Start: Starts 10m left of 'Hogadelics Anonymous'. There is a slab above an overhanging wall. Initialled. Start below left end of slab at a large gum tree.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1986

Just your regular crazy gramps stone.

FA: kp

10m left of 'Murder Psalm' is a flake crack which leads to a beautiful slab. Originally bolted by Roland Foster. Grade was guessed by BA in his northern Grampians update. (the update is a must read for paying out on Matt Brooks and co!)

Strangely this was one of the first routes bolted here. Why they walked all this way for one climb is pretty strange. Overhung blocky corner with two FH's on the blank slab above.

Start: Starts 10m left of 'Physical Graffiti'.

FA: Roland Foster & Dave Vass, 1989

Controversial bolted corner crack, with plenty of suss rock. Not a bad warm-up but far from a classic.

Start: Rusty-coloured corner 20m left of base of Pocketed Wall and 10m right of 'Murder Psalm'. Scramble up to a DBB at base of corner.

FA: Chris Rubecet, 1992

Logical 2 bolt finish to top of cliff

Up off-width groove 2m right of 'Physical Graffiti' and swing right to ledge. Diagonally up wall to elegant flake. Up.

FA: Peter Stebbins, Dave Langley & Neil Mahunt, 1992

Left leaning line of FHs 10m left of 'Terminal Insomnia'. Either stickclip first bolt or lean over from pinnacle. Burly traverse leads to technical climbing on gritty pockets. Motor up short corner to a climatic finish. Upgraded

Start as Ocean Rain for a few bolts then go directly up thin grey wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff

Shares a couple of moves with TI

FA: The Yerba's, Oct 2012

One of the best sport route of this grade in the 'Grampians'. Brilliant, but unfortunately it seeps very heavily after rain.

Starts just left of black streak on far left end of the Pocketed Wall. Scramble up and place a sling thread for safety before the first bolt and belay from there or else directly from the bottom.

FA: Neil Mahant, David Langley & Peter Stebbins

A mega link-up of the entire Pocketed Wall starting from 'Terminal Insomnia' and finishing up 'Sisters of Mercy'.

Start: Start as for 'Terminal Insomnia'.

FA: Kent Paterson & Al Robertson, 2006


First bolt is loose. Fourth bolt is loose but can be backed up with 0.5 camalot just above. I'd guess if you check the rest of the bolts they'll be loose too. Skinny, presumably short dynabolts in soft sandstone = danger.

Fantastic 'limestone style' pocket climbing up central black streak on the left side of orange wall. It's just beside a heavy seepage line, but only one hold seems to get wet.

Start: Belay as for 'Terminal Insomnia'.

FA: John Miller, 1992

Excellent long moves through great pockets with an exciting finish.

Start: Scramble up as for Warped Spasm, but start from the single BR on the right on the ledge.

FA: John Miller, 1992

A worthwhile link-up with a few metres of new climbing.

Start: Start as for 'Cosmic Psycho'.

FA: Peter Stebbins, 1992

Loose bolts, take a spanner to tighten

Fantastic sustained climbing up the centre of the Pocketed Wall. The finish seeps after a good rainfall, but not as badly as 'Motley Crue' or 'Terminal Insomnia'.

Start: Start 3m left of Sisters Of 'Mercy' at a BR belay.

FA: Peter Stebbins, 1992

Brilliant with a pumpy and demoralising finish.

Start: The right most route on the ledge. Start 5m right of Blonde Ambition at a DBB.

FA: Scott Maloney, 1992

Not very inviting and has a reputation for a blisteringly hard crux. Seeps after rain.

Start: Start as for Billy Ray Syrus.

FA: Martin Lama, 1993

Good route spoilt by ledge and nasty arete finish. Seeps after rain.

FA: John Miller, 1993

Seeps like a waterfall, except during long dry spells. Great moves though.

Outstanding trad line that thankfully (or unfortunately, depending on your point of view) didn't get grid-bolted by the young guns in the early 90's. Climbers with arm-spans under 1.8m need not apply as the crux move is incredibly reachy.

Start: Takes the corner just left of 'De La Soul' and starts a few metres further left at left facing steep flake.

FA: Goshen Watts & Daniel Reve, 1997

Sustained and technical with some powerful moves. The route is badly scarred by several aid bolts used to place the 'real' bolts.

Start: Line of flakes up very steep wall in the centre of the crag about 10m left of 'The Dope Man' and just L of a solitary pine tree against the cliff.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1992

Links DLS into TVG

Start as dope man.... punch left at ceiling campussing on pockets.

aka The Dopeman 'Extension'. An excellent line across a prominent feature. A modern classic that was somehow overlooked in the first VD Land onslaught.

Start: Start on ledge at finish of 'The Dope Man'.

FA: Matt Brooks

"Please can I have another hit?". A classic sandbag for the belay slave. The scene of many failures.

Start: Chalked up mini route that finishes on ledge 5m left of 'Body Count'.

FA: Julian Oldmeadow & Matthew Brooks, 1992

One of the best mid grade sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Consistently steep, with amazing pockets and cracks.

Start: The severely overhanging corner on the right side of the crag, about 2m right of the well chalked mini route of 'The Dope Man'. This is also the start for several other routes that split off to the right.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1992

Just what VD Land needs - another grade 24!

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2009

Some powerful pocket pulling down low and a delightful flake up high. It's written up as three pitches but you just link them all together into one long pitch of climbing. One star if you only climb the first pitch. Pitches 1 and 2 need rebolting. A 60m rope should be enough to lower off but a 50m won't be.

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

  1. 15m (24) Jam up 'Body Count' corner past UB, then step right onto sloping ledge. Up technical pockets then diagonally right on excellent incuts to rap chain. Five FH's in all. Used to be soft at 25, let's see if it's better as a solid 24.

  2. 9m (24) A touch easier than pitch 1...but not easy! Clip first FH, then step left and up the left facing flake line on the best rock around, past 2 more FHs to ledge and rap chain. It is exactly 25m back to the ground from this rap chain.

  3. 8m (25) From the 2nd anchor bouldery exposed moves head up right past two bolts to finish at top anchor on 'Happiness in Magazines' (30m to ground).

FA: Matthew Brooks & John Miller (pitch 3 added by American Elliott), 2009

A bit sharp and strange in places and wanders around a bit. Quite good though, and rather steep!

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

FA: Ross Meffin, 1993

Bails around the crux of 'Suicidal Tendencies' via a nice hand crack. Originally graded 23! The crux is the first few moves on 'Body Count'. Linking this into 'Happiness in Magazines' pitch 2 is one of the best warm-ups at this whole crag (provided you bring a number of long slings to reduce rope drag). Bring a #1 BD Cam to protect the start to the first bolt if you want.

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1992

Brilliant pumper.

Start: Start as for TBJM.

  1. 20m (25) First 6 bolts of 'The Brian Jonestown Massacre' then traverse left on pockets past two bolts until joining 'My Bloody Valentine'. 9 bolts.

  2. 15m (22) Really good in its own right - although some early repeats missed the 2 bolt face sequence off the ledge (look right!) and tradded up the fragile fat flake on the L instead, which is reportedly not much fun. Four U-bolts lead up a delightfully exposed flake on fantastic buckets. Mantle ledge then swing wildly out left (FH) for an orange jug. A couple more steep moves lead to lower-off. This pitch can also be approached via 'Crime Wave' (excellent warm up if you brought trad for CW) or via 'My Bloody Valentine'. Whichever first pitch you do, a 60m rope lets you belay from the ground and lower off the top of the 2nd pitch to the ground.

FA: kp

Up the flake on big holds, with some steep moves at the top to a DBB

FA: KP & Mike Boniwell, 2006

30 degree overhung handcrack with bolts!

Start: Starts on ground level directly below Jane's Addiction and about 10m R of 'Body Count'. Upgraded.

FA: kp, 2006

Bouldery and powerful climbing up the black streak high up on right side of amphitheatre (above Brian 'Jonestown' Massacre). Seeps badly after rain.

Start: To get to the start scramble with care onto ledge at the base from the right to belay at single rusty BR.

FA: Matthew Brooks, 1993

Awesome looking thin hand crack through 4m horizontal roof above viewing platform directly across from De La Soul. Start sitting on back ledge. Easy lipped jugs to good jam then harder move to lip. Up easily. Could be a bit easier for those with gun crack technique. Either way great line and fun climbing.

On next tier down from the very obvious VD Roof Crack. Start back in cave on slopers with obvious foot pocket. Core intensive moves to lip then more easily up left via jugs.

As for TVDSRL to lip then a few more technical moves up right to gain slopes on upper lip and mantle. Could be easier... we were pretty baked. These have clearly been done before so feel free to edit.

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