Instant PDF
Directions in Google Maps
Seasonality
Summary
Granite
One of the best and most famous bouldering areas in the world. Countless granite blocs scattered in a mystical pine forest next to a rushing river. It is hard to find anything more beautiful.
Description
Magic Wood is famous for many hard ascents, being a place where standards have been and are constantly being pushed. That being said, there is something for everyone and the sheer countless number of blocs will make it hard for anyone to run out of problems, no matter what grade you climb.
Some of the blocs are small but most are big, with treacherous landings and tricky approaches. So be sure to have good and preferably more than one spotter and plenty of crash pads.
The granite is rough and of exceptional quality and often with positive sharp holds. The rock dries surprisingly quickly and typically you are able to find dry lines even during a down pour.
The best season is from May to November. In summer Magic Wood is known to be one of the coolest bouldering areas in Europe. Be aware that during high-season in summer it can be very crowded and it can become quite challenging to find a spot for your tent on the campsite.
Next to the info available here the following topos of Magic Wood are available:
A free topo from http://sloper.climbing.nl/ ! Big thanks to the maker of this.
Approach
Magic Wood is located in the canton Graubünden in south eastern Switzerland near the village Ausserferrera. Make your way to Thusis by train or car where you may also stock up on supplies. From Thusis take the bus to Andeer where you may have to switch to the bus to Juf. Get off at Schmelzi, which is directly across from the camping.
Parking fee: 5 CHF per day
Besides using public transportation, there are two parking areas:
The main parking area at the at the Bodhi Camping
From the upper parking area at the Gasthaus Edelweis
Where to stay
You can camp at the Bodhi Camping or rent a room at the Gasthaus Edelweis.
Camp in the wild is strictly prohibited! Please respect the nature and the locals.
Plan your Trip
Hello!
First time here?
theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Ulrich Röker & Harald Röker
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9783938680506
A comprehensive guidebook describing the wonderful bouldering at Magic Wood in southern Switzerland, covering over 1,450 routes.
ⓘ
Author(s): Florian Wenter & Lorenz Delago
Date: 2017
ISBN: 9783956110733
A selective guidebook covers the best bouldering areas in the central Alps across Switzerland, Germany, Austria and Italy, including Magic Wood and Mello.
ⓘ
Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9783938680513
All important bouldering areas of northern Switzerland, including the high passes, are presented in detail / 17 bouldering hot spots with over 4150 boulder problems between Schaffhausen and the main ridge of the Alps. It covers Kesslerloch, Magic Wood, Engelberg, Blattiswald, Morschach, Schöllenen, Göschenen, Gotthardpass, Nufenenpass, Minstigertal, Furkapass, Sustenpass, Steingletscher, Grimselpass, Fuxenstein, Kandersteg, Goppenstein.
ⓘ
Accommodations nearby more Hide
Share this
Nearby Icons
| 5B | ★★★ Mänteli | ||
| 6A+ | ★★★ Blue Sky of Mine | ||
| 6C | ★★★ U-Boot | ||
| 6C+ | ★★★ Flirscher Baum | ||
| 7A | ★★★ Enterprise | ||
| 7A+ | ★★★ Grit de Luxe | ||
| 7B | ★★★ Marathonman | ||
| 7B+ | ★★★ Fast Heat | ||
| 7C | ★★★ Small Jack | ||
| 7C+ to 8A | ★★★ Schnee Sturm | ||
| 8A to 8A+ | ★★★ Pura Vida | ||
| 8A+ | ★★★ Unendliche Geschichte 1 | ||
| 8B | ★★★ Steppenwolf | ||
| 8B+ | ★★★ Mystic Stylez | ||
| 8C | ★★★ La Force Tranquille direct |
Photos Browse all photos
Peter Szemraj on ★ Traumfänger 6C+ - traumfanger
Jakob Schubert on ★★★ La Force Tranquille direct 8C - First Ascent
★★ Beach Easy 5B - 2014-05-19 13.23.30.jpg
Jakob Schubert on ★★★ Unendliche Geschichte 8B+ - Near the top on the flash...