Crags
Map
Climbers
Forum
Photos
Logbook
Guidebooks
Help
Favorite 6
Downloads
Request editor permission
Discuss area

Iris Moore Park Rock climbing 21 routes in area

21
AU
1471013151719212325

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

A small zawn with easy access. Most climbs are top rope though there are several bolted routes. You'll still need to bring some bolt plates for the anchors at the top. Some moderate graded routes for beginners. Numbers refer to the top rope bolt station when this is still the best anchor. Climbs described from access ramp clockwise. A couple of routes are bolted requiring hangers. Best to rap down and place these especially dead albatross, which needs a 0.75 cam still to back up old bolt for anchor.

Access issues

Theheavy rains in 2015 have caused some instability with several blocks having fallen. Be very careful of trusting any block. A refrigerator size block has fallen off between wabbits and animal experiments

Approach

From Anna Bay drive turn down Morna Point road and at the coast turn left into Iris Moore Park. Walk north east for 40 seconds and you are at the top of the crag.

© (vlw)

Tags

Plan your Trip

Check Weather
Find Accommodation
Guidebooks

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
Hide
Legend
Edit
1
1 ★ Access ramp / no 1 Top rope 8m
2
20 - 22 ★ First Buttress 1a / No.2 Top rope 14m

Commence at base of slab. Straight up the blunt arete split by a thin crack with increasing difficulty.

3
19 ★ 1b Top rope 14m

Start as for 1a but at about half height traverse right and then up easier line

4
17 1c Top rope 14m

Up left of the basalt seam on the orange rock. Do not climb the basalt as it will crumble and kill your belayer.

5
14 Basalt Top rope 13m

The dangerous basalt chimney. Not recommended.

6
24 The Pining Parrot Top rope 14m

Start as for The Dead Albatross to first bolt, then left to stay left side of arete . Continue up past two little triangular rooflettes. No basalt or bridging to be left. Set up as toprope for now - use fixed hangers backed up with trad, or bolt plates at top of Bicycle Graveyard, or both.

Set: John Hollott

7
24 ★★ The Dead Albatross Sport 14m, 5

The blunt arete on bolts to the right of the basalt seam. Undercut start. Need nonPFH bolt plates and 2 cams for anchor + 1 FH

Set: Vanessa Wills

8
20 ★ Bicycle graveyard Sport 17m

The crack with the undercut start. Boulder in from right. Rock a little friable in crack, and tends to seep. Straight up crack, veering left and then back at top. Can be led on bolts from 'Petes route' which heads right, and cams at top, but has DBB straight above for easy Top rope.

Set: Pete Morris

9
21 ★ The Bicycle Graveyard (alt) Sport 18m

Start as for bicycle graveyard - up crack- but head right at the top following bolts

FA: P Morris

10
25/26 ★★ Wilde Times Trad 20m

Up corner to roof. From roof head out left on U bolts to shared anchor with Pete's route, may need some small cams after the roof to avoid a bad fall.

11
22 ★★ Cracked It Trad 20m

Up corner to roof then step right and continue up crack to top out. Bolts on block above. Often wet under roof.

Set: John Wilde, 1998

12
20 Cracked Monkey Top rope 18m

Essentially the easier mix-tape variant of Cracked It and Cocky Monkey. Start left up the corner to stepped arete left of CM, continuing up the corner crack once past the roof. Good as a toprope off the hex bolt anchor.

13
20 ★★ Cocky Monkey Sport 18m, 5

Follow U bolts just to right of trad climb up slightly overhung wall. Bolts spaced so be careful off ledge.

FA: Peter Morris, 2004

14
22 ★★ Wabbits Sport 17m, 6

To right of Cocky Monkey. Follow carrots up hand crack and over roof to last RB on CM and up to anchors. PFH 45 degree plates dont fit.. Refrigerator size block has come off to the right of the bolts in mid 2015. Likely to have more loose blocks.

FA: V Wills, 2000

15
21 ★ Animal experiments Sport 20m, 5

Up narrow corner to letterbox hold in small roof. Cams help supplement the lower two bolts. Step around roof onto face and into finger crack, then thin past bolts. Traverse a short distance right to DBB (as for next two routes) a large refrigerator size block has come off to the left of this route in mid 2015.

FA: V Wills, 2004

16
20 ★ 5 / No.8 Top rope 16m

Up to ledge then up face - many variants, difficulty increases away from corner

17
18/19 ★ Cracked Corner / Corner flake / No.9 Trad 16m

Up to ledge and into corner/flake. Take care with flake, these features have a habit of breaking of without warning

18
24 ★★ 6a Top rope 16m

Up to ledge head straight up on layaway to pockets and then crimps and long moves to top

19
16 ★ Seaweed / 6b / No.10 Top rope 15m

Up to ledge traverse right 1.5m and then up on good holds to undercling and top

Start: As for 6a

20
15 ★ Rolled Stoned / No. 7 / 11 Top rope 14m

Up wide chimney near tide line, on often wet holds, taking care of block near top

21
13 Salt Spray / No. 12 / 12 Top rope 14m

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Top editors by karma

See all contributors | Karma

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing Guide

Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

-5% Buy
ⓘ

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Nearby Icons

20 ★★ Cocky Monkey
24 ★★ The Dead Albatross

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of area

★ Bicycle graveyard 20 - BG setup

★★ Cocky Monkey 20 - Ro before CM

Iris Moore Park - Perfect day for a coastal climb

★ Animal experiments 21 - AE setup

Wed 19 Apr
Check out what is happening in Iris Moore Park.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文