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Left Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 16

Seasonality

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Description

The attractive short cliff just beyond the Quarry Wall. Mix of bold climbing, and well protected sport climbs.

Routes

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Grade Route

Steep, sustained and tough for the grade. The rising rightward line at the far left end of the cliff. Fingery moves to start before gaining first FH, trend rightward to second FH, then straight up

FA: Krish Seewraj & Pat Spiers, 2002

Super thin climbing up 4 FH's on the small buttress at the left end of the crag.

FFA: Paul Deacon, 2001

Wild line on natural pro, taking the mot prominent crack line immediately left of OFTG. Hard, technical start to gain crack at 4m

FA: Krish Seerwaj & Pat Spiers, 2002

The line of four FH's in the middle of the wall. Clipping the first bolt is advisable as the thin crux is right off the ground. Powerful boulder problem to gain ledge before climbing eases to DBB

FFA: Mark Rewi, 2001

Excellent naturally protected route up the steep wall between OFTG and SBM. The route was originally intended to be bolted the week before the first natural ascent - hence the name! Start 2m right of OFTG, bold moves up the lower wall lead to ledge and gear, then follow the ragged crack until it trends right to the finish

FA: Mark Rewi & Krish Seewraj, 2001

The as yet unclimbed direct finish to TFTBF. As for that route until the crack trends right near the top. Instead climb the much harder direct line straight to the top

Another excellent, sustained mixed route taking a direct line up the highest section of the cliff. Start 3m right of TFTBF below a small dish. Balance up and clip FH, before ticky moves lead to good holds up high. Continue past second FH, finishing up a small vertical crack

FA: Pat Spiers, 2002

As for SBM to just below the second FH, then step right and follow the ragged, rightward trending crack

FA: Pat Spiers, 2002

Start at the left hand arete just right of The Mr T Variant. Climb up and right into the crack and on to the top.

FFA: 2001

Start just right of Borrowed Time, crossing that route and climbing the left arete.

FA: 2001

The easier of Paul's new sport climbs, just L of Shades of Blue

FA: Paul Deacon

FFA: Paul Deacon, 2001

Fun climbing with just enough protection. Start 1m right of guano streak below twin caves at the right end of the cliff. Up committing face (small wires can be found) to ledge and cave. Ignore the ancient carrot and continue up and right, around the arete and up slab, passing another carrot to SBB

A Brilliant mix of technical and strenuous climbing. As for SOB to the cave, then straight up the sustained crack system above (beware potential loose rock)

FA: Mark Rewi, 1998

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Mon 24 Apr
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