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Description
A popular cliff featuring a collection of easier climbs in the 10 - 18 range. Good access from above and below.
Access issues inherited from Tasmania
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!
http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania
Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website
Approach
<5 min
Take the zig-zag track from Pennyroyal - past Trackside Buttress (first major cliff above the track) and part way up the next staircase. There is (usually) a small cairn on the other side of the small fence. Jump the fence, and follow the climbers track down and upstream about for about 20m (French Ethics & Pygmy Possum Buttress) and then downstream about 10m along a narrow ledge. Here there are 2 sets of bolts to rap in from.
Alternatively, the climbs can be accessed from below. Jump the stile at Trackside, and descend halfway down the upstream side of Offal Buttress. Follow a contouring minor pad to Nighthawks, scramble through slot to Trench-Foot Face, then sidle around pillar using new chain (take care!).
Ethic inherited from Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
Crag Stewards
Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (eskriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.
Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
Other
• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted
• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.
• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.
• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn
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theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question
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Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780646841946
Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.
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Thu 20 Apr
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