Herbaceous Gully Mostly Trad climbing 35 routes in cliff

Behind tree to arete and up to grassy ledge. 2). Up and around left to ledge, arete, right wall briefly, cave and arete.

Start: 6m right of the gully.

Up to ledge. 2).Corner, or nose on right. 3). Corner or nose to bush. 4).Right wall or small corner.

Has a Ds. Wide chimney 7m right.

Start: 1m right of DoG. Chimney.

Easily up to top of block to FH on the undercut wall to the left. Traverse left to a ring bolt then up the arete past another ring on the left (can confirm this will hold a fall...) to the crux just after you clip the final ring. From here easily up the arete to where it meets Tal, top out as for Tal. A 0.4 Camalot, and a set of nuts, as well as a couple of bolt plates are a must for the climbing after the last ring.

Don't forget you need a trad belay on top: 0.5, #3 Camalots and a few nuts will do nicely.

Start: Start at the block 6 or 8m left of Toll, at the ugly scratched X (not made by FA party).

Another old classic. Start up the corner that becomes the classic Toll. At the first major ledge move diagonally up and left across face, passing weird home made hanger, to arete (belay possible here), then easily up to major ledge (good belay here). Continue up easy terrain above, heading up the grey wall that has the least undercut start just left of the orange overhang..

Warning Rock: Suggestion to add loweroffs to before final choss corner

1. 15m As for Tal to the first ledge. Best combined with pitch 2.

2. 15m (16) Up awesome crack to ledge on left with questionable carrot and fixed hanger.

3. 20m (16) Corner to roof, right under this, around lip and up into the chimney on suboptimal rock. Upon topping out you can either create a bomber trad belay in the major crack between two blocks or climb on top of these blocks and belay off two carrots. The trad belay is probably easier from a rope drag perspective.

Crack and slab to tree. 2). Crack to cave. 3). Up to roof(piton?), down, across to crack, up to ledge. 4). Choss to recess, right and up. Take big pro.

Start: Corner 2m right of TF.

Up to ledge. 2). Corner on right, crack to right, back to corner, aid then left, left to stance. 3). Corner, right, under roof, around lip to metal thingy, aid chossy crack, ledge, then left to bush. Scramble off or finish as for TBoH.

Start: 6m right again. Corner.

Up to tree and bushes. 2).Cracks to bushes. 3).Corner, death traverse right to arete, to ledge. 4). Walk right, up steep corner and wall.

Start: Cracks 5m right of TPoA.

Climb tree to branch below corner, to rest, right to corner, up to ledge, choss corner to roof, right, up crack above roof then right to belay. 2).Up, right through scrub, to ledge, mantle to ledge, left & up to ledge. 3).As for EP.

Start: 18m right of EP.

Up to ledge. 2).Crack on left to slot. 3).Left,slightly up to piton(!),up to shield, across left then up,veer left to small ledge,rest,Scrubby crack to wide point, step right & up to ledge. 4).Mantle to trees, to ledge. 5). As for EP. Take Care!!

Start: 25m right of the previous. Short corner.

Arete 15m right of the Spider 1. 20m(20) Wall (cams) tending left to ledge. Left and up to horizontal break (medium to large cams). Left past bolt (crux), around into corner (place gear for second) and left and up to arête HDBB. Second can unclip the bolt after passing the crux. 2. 20m(17) Up to flake (cam) then arête (bolts on right wall). Left to stance DBB. 3. 25m(17) Right to arête (bolt). Over bulge then wall tending left (bolts) to ledge. Belay on good piton and cams. 4. 10m(12) Up to big ledge under overhang. DBB on back wall. Walk off right, up gully, right to track and up to Golden Stairs carpark.

M Payens C McGown 1996

Up wall - safer on the arete 3m right! - traverse to arete, up to big ledge. 2).Corner to roof, hand traverse left, mantle, up crack onto grassy ledge. 3).Corner, chimney, up to ledge, left under roof, corner.

Start: 50m right of N near fallen tree.

As for D to arete, up slightly,traverse right to corner and tree. 2). Slab to below corner, up to ledge beneath overhang,Left, over bulge and up to tree. 3).Up, right to QD anchor 2. Up.

Start: As for D.

First pitch supposedly reasonable.

Start: On left side of large corner containing "Big Willis's Chimney"

1. 13m Wall to RB then left to BB.

2. 30m A few delicate moves then more easily up.

3. 30m Broken rock to top.

"A very classical chimney struggle"[JME]

Start: Below thin black chimney facing south.

1. 12m Easily up to base of chimney.

2. 25m "Uncomfortably" up chimney to past chockstone to another chockstone belay.

3. 10m "Worm up slanting chimney, aim for the sunlight, exit out of hole." [JME]

4. 10m Easily left and off.

Start: At dark corner about 50m right of Pawn Capture. Scramble up to tree anchor.

1. 12m Traverse right to historic 1962 Bloodwood stump, then hand traverse right and mantle to knob anchor.

2. 19m Steep wall to tree belay on wide ledge.

3. 15m Easy slab to top.

Perchance one of the examplars of the Neck 70's aid renaissance, both in quality and name.

Start: At overhanging right leaning crack about 30m left of Diamond Spray waterfall.

1. 27m Blades, Arrows and bolts to narrow scrub ledge below open book corner. Rap off, or ...

2. 15m Traverse right through scrub to finish just left of waterfall.

Start: About 70m right of Diamond Spray waterfall (across narrow shale ledge to wider ledge, and back left to open book corner...)

1. 25m Chimney and face to ledge.

2. 34m Up and left through small overhang on right. Wall climbing diagonally left to to bushy ledge.

3. 30m Easily trending right.

Start past waterfall at corner under overhang.

"I feel I must rate Crud Climb as .. the most worthless climb in this [1967] guide .. the firm favorite, certain to win by a lead of 1 furlong, 80 yds." [JME]

1. 12m Up corner to below overhang.

2. Scramble left then right to up to main ledge.

3. Walk right for 300 yards, almost to next waterfall, then scramble up short grassy gully to top.