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Seasonality
Description
Slab
Morning sun
West
Currently, there are three bolted slabby routes well worth the effort to get there. The crag faces south east and gets a little sun in the mornings. A strong contender for best slab in Sydney.
Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
Approach
Flat
30-45 min
Approach via Galston Gorge as Rifle Range has blocked the Quarry Trail. As of December 2016, an 800 metre section, starting about 400m past the clearing access for Top and Lower Tiers and finishing about 100m up the hill from the campground, prohibits access from the Quarry Rd end. Alternative access is now either via a foot track and fire trail from Galston Gorge (1.9klm of which the first 500m is pretty steep) or a rideable 3.7klm fire trail from Stewart Ave, Hornsby with big hills each way.
From the bottom of the concrete at the Quarry Rd end of the campground, continue for about 40m and turn right following the arching branch of the big pink gum tree into long grass and bush towards cliff line 30m ahead. When you get to the edge and look out, you’re somewhere above Vermillionaire slab with the distinctive Galston High buttress about 20m to its left.
The campground is officially ‘Tunks Ridge Rest Area’ and is part of the Great North Walk.
Descent notes
Walk off
Walk around to your left (north) and access the gully down, following near the base of the cliff around to your right until you see the right wall of Galston High buttress. Keep an eye out for the odd leach after wetter periods. Descriptions are left to right looking at the crag.
History
Found in 2013. Thanks to Niall Doherty for showing the bolting virgins which way to point the drill when we were finally ready to do something about it. Scott found a bolt plate at the base of GH during an early top rope ascent. Possibly the same person guy who put the bolt in at the Big Wall Environs?
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint
Date: 2023
With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.
Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.
Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780645299908
Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.
ⓘ
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Paul Collins at Campground - Paul Collins coming up to the cave on Duck Season (pre bolts).png
Paul Collins at Campground - Galston High 2a.jpg
Scott McManus at Campground - Scott, first ascent of Vermillionaire.jpg
Chris Perry at Campground - Galston High 1a.jpg
Tue 18 Apr
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