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The Left Wings Rock climbing 20 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 50
20
SA
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Description

For some peace and quiet and some quality climbing head here. Some of the routes that were opened on trad could be retro-bolted to make this a more popular crag..just ask the first ascentionist first! There are some routes that will remain trad.

Access issues inherited from Wonderland Area

Climbing Permits Wonderland The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including MCSA, 'The Mayhem Crags' and 'Tranquilitas'. The MCSA has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit. Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the MCSA or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs: Day Permits R 60 Day permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R30 Weekend Permits R100 Weekend permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R50 Month permits R 600 Month permits for MCSA / Tranquilitas R300 Annual R1600 Annual for MCSA / Tranquilitas R1 200 By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers. Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

Approach

A. From 'The Superbowl', walk pass all the climbs then past some wet ground, up a bit, past a gully that leads to the top of the cliffline (the other approach) then the path leads down again, after 50m or so the climbs are reached.

B. Approach as for the right-hand end of 'The Superbowl', down the gully, then keep left and after 50m or so the climbs are reached.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 ★ Why Trad

Climbs the easy break left of 'Herman the German' up to a tree.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

2
26 ★ Herman the German Sport 10

Climb up the next route to the recess, rail 2m left and then up the headwall.

FA: Adam, 1994

3
22 ★★ Skelmpoes Sport 8

Climb the arête but mostly stay on the pretty face right of 'Herman the German'. Avoid fondling the jugs of the neighbour around the corner and enjoy the secret crack!

Set: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2019

FA: Tony dos Ramos, 2019

4
24 Herman's Route Mixed trad 5

Stick clip the 1st bolt or place friends. Move up wall to gain recess. Climb right and up to a tree. There are no anchors.

FA: Herman du Plessis, 1992

5
18 ★★ Green Machine Sport

Start up the crack near the arête left of 'True Blue'. A puzzling crux leads to an easier slab.

Set: Clive Curson, 2018

FA: Thulani Mazibuko, 2018

6
16 ★ True Blue Mixed trad 12

Takes the red corner left of 'Wysiwyg', about 25-30m right of the descent gully. Route has been retro-bolted - see "Wysiwyg" description.

FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992

Set: 2018

7
9 ★★ Red Under the Bed Sport 12

The alpine arête between 'True Blue' and 'Wysiwyg', starting just left of and below 'Mellow Yellow' - smaller U-bolts. Go diagonally left towards the arête then up to a ledge at half height. Lower from here (8 bolts) or continue up to the 'Mellow Yellow' anchors

Set: Clive Curson, 2018

FA: 2018

8
10 ★★ Mellow Yellow Sport 10

The face just left of the 'Wysiwyg' corner, via a sickle feature about 5m up.

Set: Clive Curson, 2018

FA: Clive Curson, 2018

9
12 ★ Wysiwyg Mixed trad 11

Climbs the obvious corner to the left of the large stacked roofs, 5m right of 'True Blue'. Watch the blocks near the top.

FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992

Set: Clive Curson, 2018

10
23 ★★ Chacma Sport 13

Moves rightwards out of the Wysiwyg corner onto the beautiful face at half height.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2018

11
27 ★★ Chunky Monkey Sport 9

The route climbs a really obvious square arête then rails out rightwards wildy!

FA: Mark Seuring, 1998

12
25 ★★ Hounds Mousse Sport 11

Through the groove 8m right of 'Chunky Monkey'.

FA: Axel Wachter, 2000

13
18 ★ New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch Sport 10

This route takes the next arête right of 'Chunky Monkey'. The lower offs are too small to fit both rope & draws through when cleaning.

FA: Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000

14
19 ★★★ Lo and Behold Sport 12

Starts between two trees. Climb 5m right of 'New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch', at a fig tree. Looks way too steep and blank for this grade, but be assured that excellent holds appear - especially just after the crux, where there seems to be a bit of a run-out. When the going gets tough, just keep cranking! Anchors are 2 large glue ins without chains, large enough to fit easily rope and biners.

FA: Clive Curson & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2018

15
19 ★ Home Alone Trad

Climb the corner and up a short v-groove to the top. Route may be retrobolted.

FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992

16
19 ★★★ Puppet on a String Trad

About 50-60m along right from the descent gulley is a shallow corner. Just left is a fine looking crack. Climb the crack.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991

17
19 ★★ Through The Looking Glass Mixed trad 11

The shallow corner. Route has been retro-bolted - see 'Wysiwyg' description.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991

Set: Clive Curson, 2018

18
25 ★ Balrog Sport 9

The line left of 'Transmogrifier'.

FA: Tessa Little, 2001

19
26 ★★ Transmogrifier Sport 9

Start on the block below the obvious V-groove. Name written at base of the climb

FA: Mark Seuring, 2001

20
21 PROT:R ★ Uiters Tors Trad

Trad route between 'Transmogrifier' & 'Endless October'. Climbs a gnarly thin seam & trends up & left. Poor gear.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, Clive Curson & Chris Lomax, 1992

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19 ★★★ Lo and Behold

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Tue 25 Apr
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