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Access: Climbing Access in Dairy Farm

Latest update about discussions with NParks can be found here - https://www.change.org/p/national-parks-board-singapore-protect-rock-climbing-at-dairy-farm/u/30873370

If you are considering going climbing here, please understand, appreciate and accept the following -

  1. Dairy Farm (DFQ) is a defunct granite quarry that was blast-mined when it was active. As such, the internal integrity of the walls is unknown and rock fall has been observed by climbers through the years.

  2. DFQ is NOT a playground or a gym, where risks are minimised for you. Please ensure that you possess adequate outdoor climbing skills and are able to protect yourself.

  3. There is a chance that you might be fined by NParks for going "off-trail" under park regulations.

  4. Please practice good stewardship of the area and educate yourself on "Leave No Trace principles.

See warning details and discuss

Created 3 years ago - Edited about two years ago

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Description

Safety note
- If belaying from the ledge below "And Justice for all" or "Perverting the course of Justice" consider anchoring yourself to a tree or some solid rock - otherwise if the climber falls before the first clip they could stumble off the ledge and bring you both down. It may be easier and safer to belay from the ground rather than the ledge. Note that both of these routes have a lot of loose rock, a helmet should be considered essential for those on the ground here.

Routes

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Grade Route

Warning Flora and Fauna: Overgrown / Unclimbable

FA: Lawrence Lee & Anthony Seah, 1987

Warning Rock: Loose / Unstable Rock

FA: Peter Terbush, 1994

Warning Rock: Loose / Unstable Rock

Starts 2m to the right of the And Justice for all crack, taking in the face all the way to the top. Follow the line of the bolts. Loose rock abounds. A serious proposition for a sport climb that is not reflected in the grade.

FA: Hamish

Set: Al Bear & Hamish, 14 Jun 2019

A Dairy Farm classic comprising technical face climbing.

Set: Chiew Sien Chew, K.F. Tham & Benny Kuan

FA: Chiew Sien Chew, 2001

Scramble start to a line that follows two parallel weaknesses in the rock. Work up to a natural break with two obvious (suspiciously perfect) handholds. Move right and mount the protrusion. Staying left, insecure moves bring you a large ledge. From here some powerful moves to reach the anchor.

Set: Chiew Sien Chew & KF. Tham

FA: Jeffrey Neo, 2001

Feb 2021 update:-
static sling thread protection is no longer there. A cam can be used to protect the last move to the anchor. A BD Camalot #2 (Gold) size fits well.

Set: Chiew Sien Chew & K.F. Tham

FA: You Rui

The first half follows the same line as 'Living Water', at the 5th bolt stay right and climb to the anchor on the vertical wall.

Route shares the first 5 bolts as 'Take it Easy' and then traverses to the left. Details originally posted here.

FA: Andy Popeye, 2012

Set: Chiew Sien Chew & K.F. Tham

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Mon 24 Apr
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