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Kingdom Boulders

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Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Approach

The Kingdom Boulders is on the right side of Joseph Young drive between Artful Dodger area and the summit. It is obvious by the road near an old quarry. Park thoughtfully by the side of the road.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Upper Kingdom boulder field
22
460
3m
2

Routes

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Grade Route

Aptly named after the long red ant which waged war upon my sandals. Stand start and ascend left side of slab.

FA: Jamie

Excellent handholds, some crumbly feet, and nice moves. Stand start as for "Long Red Ant" and move left around the arete. Top out once hands are at highest point with left heel hook.

FA: Jamie

Ascend right side of slab - up and over. Don't escape right.

FA: Jamie

Stand start using sloper and climb up to Horizontal break. Continue up short slab above and committing mantle to finish.

FA: Cameron MacLeman, 24 Sep 2023

A bit committing slab problem.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 25 Oct 2014

Stand start and climb the ramp.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Feb 2015

To the right of step up left.

FA: Ash Sankey, 4 Feb 2015

Climb the wide crack

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2009

Climb the slab.

FA: Ash Sankey, 4 Feb 2015

Stand start on the edge of the slab and make a big rockover. Finish up Slurpee Chucker.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Feb 2015

Climb the obvious slab on the boulder to the right of the Her Majesty boulder.

FA: Ash Sankey, 4 Feb 2015

sitstart and make the low traverse leftwards on the overhanging arête on coarse holds until the end of the arete and then make a big move up and right to jugs. Finish there.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2012

Stand-start about half way up with a good crimp for the right hand on the face and left hand on/near the arete. Climb the arete. Don't step on the adjacent boulder at the top.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2013

Sit-start and climb the arete left of Scar Issue. Start straddled and then rock around to the right-hand side after a few moves.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 15 Aug 2018

Sit-start to Dark Scar but really it's a different problem - only one of the handholds and footholds is shared between the two problems. Start on the left-hand sidepull and right crimp. Move up to the obvious crimp with the right hand, nice footwork then allows the higher left-hand crimp to be reached. From here launch up and right with the right hand to where the lip flattens out (where the water bottle is in the photo). You could cheat and grab the left arete - don't do that! You can use the big foothold near the arete though - that's fine. A nice addition.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 15 Aug 2018

Stand-start at left hand end of the smooth overhanging wall. Pull off ground with your right foot on the wall, hold the position stable and then move directly to top and mantle over. One move wonder.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2012

Deep Wounds leads (in)to Dark Scars. Sit-start on the right side with right hand on jug, traverse left, and mantel.

FA: Dave C, 2019

Traverse left to right.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2012

Sit start and climb arete. A great climb.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2012

The sister climb to Coronation Day. Stand start with left hand on arete, and right in sloped crack. Climb the arete and slab with delicate footwork.

FA: Cameron MacLeman, 22 Jun 2023

Stand-start.

FA: Jamie

Stand start and move around arete to a precarious finish.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2009

Sitstart and move up to top out on the right arete. Hard.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014

Stand start and climb Parallel Lives but top out to the left not right,

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2013

Step off boulder at the finishing arete of Parallel Lives. Traverse across while squeezing past the small tree. Continue along Mossy ramp and up right arete.

FA: Cameron MacLeman, 22 Jun 2023

Sit start with slopey Right hand, and good undercling. Fun sequence gains high feet, then top out at pinnacle of boulder.

FA: Cameron MacLeman & Austin M, 3 Aug 2023

Fun fact: Parallel analysis is a statistical tool used to identify the quantity of latent higher-order factors or components to retain in an exploratory factor analysis or principal components analysis, respectively.

Sit start. Swing around right and over - finish once on the ledge. To the top of the boulder is possible, but it is mossy.

FA: Jamie

Sit start. Straight up.

Sit start layback on and then up the questionable flake

When your route gets lost between the lichen and the moss. Stand start on two edges. Then delicately up on crimps to the left.

Sit start on manky flake. Up to large sidepull traverse right then mantle. Don't step on the boulder to the right of the finish while mantleing.

Sit start hands on large ledge to left of arete. Up to large jug then some delicate moves for the mantle.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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