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Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

FA: Hiro Nishikwa, 7 Dec 2014

Start as Moss Side Story. From the lip traverse left to finish up Alex Hipster.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014

Stand-start and climb the arete on the right hand side. Mantle over arete to finish.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014

Sit-start and climb the obvious crackline.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 17 Aug 2019

Sit-start and climb the crack and wall.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 17 Aug 2019

Stand-start and climb the obvious groove and arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 17 Aug 2019

Sit-start and climb the arete on the right-hand side.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 17 Aug 2019

Right left to traverse along the bottom of a cliff. Stand-start at the right end of the obvious feature. Traverse leftwards easily on big holds until you get to loose holds/crack in the corner. Make a hard left hand gaston on the vertical feature on the headwall above the roof, match on this feature and then get the left arete. Matching the feature and getting the arete is the crux. Finish in the chimney. Rock is crumbly in places.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 22 Aug 2019

FA: Hiro Nishikawa, 7 Dec 2014

Immediately left of Alex Highrise. Balance up to rail, mantle and top out.

FA: Nick Moore, 30 Aug 2019

Start at rock against the boulder, just left of TEoG. Delicately up to good crimp then slightly right and top out.

FA: Anthony Williams, 30 Aug 2019

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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