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Summary
Big time adventure feel single + multipitch routes at more moderate grades - over the back of Falcon Crag.
Description
Mostly easier sport routes up to 30m. Bolted + developed by Bill Baxter no earlier than 2015, with good quality hardware. Most routes are labelled with a small metal name plate at their base, for ease of identification.
Although the grades and bolting here are quite user friendly, consider this a more remote + slightly more advanced destination than The Chessboard etc. The routes here are still relatively new without much traffic, so loose rock is always a possibility. Wear a helmet!
Access issues inherited from Hillwood (private land)
Private
Hillwood climbing has finally reopened (11th March, ‘24) after many years of closure. Exciting times!!
Georgetown Council has negotiated a lease agreement with the land owner, but it remains PRIVATE PROPERTY - so please adhere to best behaviour, so we do not once again lose access!!
**Access is currently "tentative", and could be scrapped within the year if we do not respect the handful of site rules + regulations when we visit. Please be mindful of this!!
A carpark has been built well-off the main road to facilitate approx. 25 cars - DO NOT park along Craigburn Road at the old parking space if the new carpark is full on arrival. Carpooling from home or a nearby location (eg. Hillwood Football Oval) is encouraged to manage current carpark capacity. Please attempt to park as tightly as possible to maximise vehicle space.
There is now a toilet located at the carpark. Please use it as priority - and adhere to "Leave No Trace" principals if elsewhere on the property. Dig a 20cm hole, and bury poop and paper. Even better - carry a poo tube and pack it out after your session. Do not burn your toilet paper!
CragCare has conducted track/regrowth clearing works across the site to get it ready for climbing, and as such many old access routes could have changed since your last visit. Refer to the updated online guide here for any new approach details. Major junctions are now signposted, and all tracks have been flagged with tape - many routes have also had their hardware inspected or rebolted by the CCT.
The campaign to have Hillwood reopened to the public was lengthy, and complex. Many people have donated much time, effort and money to the cause - and even now it is not guaranteed forever. Please understand that climbing at Hillwood is a privilege, and not a right. As a community - we thank both the landowner, and the Georgetown Council for this amazing outcome, and contribution to Tasmanian climbing.
With any luck, and ongoing respect/compliance - access will be continued for many more years to come!! Happy climbing!!
Any concerns or general feedback can be directed to the CCT's new crag stewards program via hillwood@climbersclubtas.org.au
Approach
<5 min
Updated March '24. From the carpark follow signs straight past the old quarry junction, then swinging left continuing along the rough vehicle track until you reach a signposted junction to The Far Side. Follow the track up and over the hill, passing the signposted junction to Falcon Crag.
Ethic inherited from Hillwood (private land)
Crag Stewards
Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (hillwood@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.
Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
Other
• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted
• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.
• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.
• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn
History
Developed by Bill Baxter
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theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780646841946
Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.
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