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Kirkwood Lake / Caples Creek

  • Grade context: US

Flora and Fauna: Burnt in the Caldor Fire

Although this area reopened April 1st, 2022 (as per Forest Order No. 03-22-06), it was extensively burned by the southern lobe of the Caldor Fire, and there is a substantial amount of standing dead timber throughout. Caution is advised.

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Created about two years ago
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Description

A large and complex area of domes, slabs, and walls up to about 100m in height (though mostly much shorter than that).

While the area has been climbed on for many decades and has some fixed gear here and there, information is (deliberately) very scant as there is a desire amongst the local climbing community to preserve this area as somewhere that can provide a first-ascent-esque adventure experience.

If you know what you're doing and are after that experience, this is a wonderful place to visit. Just please don't publish what you find, so that others may also have that same experience.

Access issues inherited from Carson Pass

Note: within the Eldorado National Forest you may park anywhere beside highway 88, provided your car is fully off the pavement. Obviously this rule no longer applies once snow season starts.

Approach

Kirkwood Lake parking lot is the single best place to park for this area, though it can be exceptionally busy on weekends, and some of the cliffs are better accessed from the Lake Margaret parking lot and trail, or various parking lots along Caples Lake.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 19 Apr
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