nice little trad-venture. *massive walk-in (1hr!).
from the carpark, walk to gate and down onto the fortress ridge walking track (clear track; no bushbashing) for about 1hr. you'll reach a massive rock outcrop on your left, look for a cairn and turn left onto a track here. go down the obvious track and you'll eventually (~10min?) reach the abseil chains.
3 abseils. *bring 2 ropes for this.
gear used: 1 standard set of nuts, 1 set of cams from #0.3 through to #3 camalots (do not bring more gear), 8-10 bolt plates.
beginning of the climb is clearly marked with large 'TT' in chalk.
pitch 1: once you reach the top of the bulge and clip the first bolt plate, look very carefully to find the other carrot - it is ~50cm behind it (both are at ground level). belay from here.
pitch 2: starts with a fun boulder move. easy if you are flexible enough to get a high right toe or heel. was able to place a #4 camalot but not worth the size/weight as there is a bolt nearby.
once you move right after the bolt, i could not fit a size #0.3 in the horizontal crack so used a yellow(#5) bd nut instead.
pitch 3: really short pitch. you'll reach 1 carrot bolt and need to build a trad belay to back it up. i used a #0.4 silver camalot and a yellow(#5) bd nut.
pitch 4: basically all on carrot bolts so grab all the plates.
pitch 5: basically all on carrot bolts so grab all the plates. i only found 1 placement (#1 red camalot). total sport pitch.
pitch 6: few bolts here but lots of cam placements available if you prefer.
walk back out the same way you came in. too much walking vs climbing time imo. but a good trad/mixed multi for a beginner. total climb time was ~3h45m
Keith Davison started this discussion 6 years ago.
nice write up. saves me doing it. haha