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Ascent: The Stolen Generation

Ascent details
rdiddy
The Stolen Generation
The Stolen Generation
Sport 39m, 18
2018-03-31
2018-03-31
-- Inherits from route --
23
23
Don't Bother

Caution! I pulled a good part of a ledge off this soon after the crux and took a large whipper. Three large blocks and lots of small rocks rained down on my belayer who just managed to jump hard and swing with my whipper up and out of the way. Could have been a bad accident. And had anyone else been below at the time it very likely would have. Helmets would not have helped against those blocks.

I don't agree with the description about this route or this crag generally that there are a few small rocks that will clear up with more activity. There is a whole band of rotten rock on this wall that will keep shearing off. It is not a matter of kicking off a few loose rocks to find hard rock underneath. The holds have formed as sharp side pulls and flakes because that is how the rock here is fracturing. This is not your average Grampians rock.

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Climber Performance Rating
eligible
Sport
2767
1727 (-1040 point)
1059 (-668 point)

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Discussion

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7 comments

adam demmert started this discussion 5 years ago.

Totally agree with your comment here there are a lot of routes that are not cleaned properly or are continued to bolt up in to bad rock just to get extra length

Heath Black replied 5 years ago.

Still pulling large blocks off 10 years after the first ascent is a bit of a worry!

Jimmy replied 5 years ago.

This place is continuously having near misses with rock fall. It really is a concern that so many new to outdoor climbing get drawn into the easy graded sport routes here, it is a terrible accident waiting to happen.

Jimmy replied 5 years ago.

Also, wouldn't be surprised if this is one of the upcoming future banned areas.

Eww replied 5 years ago.

Not if climbers are getting stoned.

Heath Black replied 5 years ago.

The naming theme to crag would be ironic if it got banned

Jimmy replied 5 years ago.

Heath Black That was sort of the gag I was aiming at ha

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