Ascents of Meat Puppets

Top slap felt fine, just need a clean beta between second and third bolts

butched this on rope solo - i remember it feeling easier on lead!

All moves except the final dyno which is bonkers

Burly!

That last move is rough

First bolt is quite high, bring clip stick or climb from left.

Can’t get last moves to top, come back!

Last move was very committing. Went left hand big slap to the top

How I learned to love the slap.

Took 4 tries going for the last move up to hold the sloper on the top. Will have to come back for the redpoint

Stuffed around too long and couldn't get the top move.

Hooray!

I’ve had some idea of where the holds are for ‘Meat Puppets’ from watching other people give this a crack as well as climbing both ‘Warm It Up’ and ‘Whistling In The Dark’. I only used the left side of the flake and some thin crimps on the face just slightly to the left of it to get up to the second and third ring-bolts. Very pumpy last section - I managed to get a left heel-hook on one of the shelves and rest before slapping out far left to finish the route. There is a really nice jug on the right side of the chains a little further back which is optimal for clipping the anchors. Awesome route! Great to flash this directly after pink pointing ‘Kaos’ (23).

Somehow in the 4 weekends I climbed here I've seen some epics on this 8m route..

Had to take a rest before launching to top.

This felt about as hard as I remembered it. The last move remains a committing little thing.

Got it this time... Just had to slap the right spot at the top.

Cool climb with nice start and big slap to slopper at the top.

Cool climb with nice start and big slap to slopper at the top.

Found the top a bit throwy but missed a good hold lower down I could have used. Two fun moves. Worth doing once.

i think ended up too far right, recall going more direct last time. one fall one clean run

Found a better foot position. I think when I'm not scared I can concentrate on how to stick it instead of subconsciously getting ready for a safe fall

With a long loooong draw on the anchor because I just wanted to finish the thing, might do it in better style one day

Just repeatedly slapping the lip and falling off

Actually stuck to the sloper on top today, but only from the hang. Still it might go now I've worked the top out

Still trying to work out the top move! Fun roofy stuff

Had a huge session today with Ed, ChrisO and Arlo; 8am till 1pm and got heaps of climbs in. Practiced setting up multipitch anchors, Re-did SOIS ledge start variation, re-did Claw away, and a few others. First time trying Meat Puppets - didn’t get the red point but a good project to come back to. Need to hone in on some good beta, and need to not use too many of the ‘Warm It Up’ holds and not muck around at the third clip. This was really more like a mash up climb of both routes. A fantastic day out at the crag over all