Ascents of Nemesis

Punted once on the crux pitch, sent all others. Four great pitches, all presenting a challenge and one mandatory quest through choss and lichen.

This is a more accurate topo than in the guidebook

Very good. Pitch 3 is scrappy but the other pitches are excellent. Interesting old-school crux pitch involving nifty fingerlocks and some thrutching on poor feet.

Andy lead P1, P2 and P5. I did P3 and P4. Pitch 1 felt hard for 19!

Do you know what the term 'nemesis' means? Climbed as a giant 40m pitch from the ground with disgusting ropedrag despite running it out on P1 and enormous slings trying to alleviate it. P1 has to be a monster sandbag cranking through roofs on gear. P2 is super old school, gnarly dihedrals, thrutching, Y-groove climbing and a touch of off width. Awesome! But ill admit that I wimpered a bit as I thrutched away.

Lead 1st and third. Whipped at the roof . beware of rope drag at the roof on 1st pitch

Unreal route, starting with an improbably horizontal roof at grade 19, the crux 22 moves are desperate and slick , the grade 20 pitch has amazing jamming on it and some wild steep climbing. All round top route!