Ascents of Mother Earth

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Showing all 78 ascents.

	Grade	Route	Gear style	Quality	Climber
Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth - with Anton Korsun	Trad 24m	★★★ Mega Classic	Jacques Beaudoin
First Free Ascent without pre-placed gear (redpoint). I have no words, it has been a long journey. Well worth it. I can't thank my belayers enough. Shot #1000000
Wed 12th May 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth	Trad 24m	★★★ Mega Classic	Jacques Beaudoin
First Redpoint attempt. It was really scary as I was not really sure if I would be able to place next piece on lead and it's quite runout. I have worked out placements all on lead, now 5 group placements in 24m of climbing from batman anchor. 1st before crux (triple Yellow Z4), 2nd through crux (BD std med nut), at rest (Grey, Blue, Yellow Z4), Mid Bulge (Purple C4), Mid Roof (Red C4). If this wasn't of the batman start, most of the climb would be in groundfall territory. Luckily, it starts 7m from ground. As far as climbing goes, I find quite easy now, conditions are great and I'm thinking gr31 is not accurate and it could well be easier.
Sun 2nd May 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	FA ★★★ Mother Earth Project - with Ben Cadwelladder	Trad 24m	★★★ Mega Classic	Jacques Beaudoin
FFA. First Free Ascent, pink point style. 76 shots over 7 months. This is a stunning line open for business.
Wed 28th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Warmup burn was as per previous highpoints, no more struggle through the finger locks, just have to get more than one pad in that pocket...
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Freak event, second lock didn't get in properly, not to worry...
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
OMG that was it, I had the pocket solid but for some reasons my body was sagging too much to reset and wedge my pinky on the left side to proceed with the easy Glory Dyno. This should have been the one, I should have fought more. New high point at least.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
I can do easily four shot a session now. Fell off one pad in pocket. Shot 75
Sun 25th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Foot popped at pinch, does this counts as an attempt?...
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
High point again at pocket, kind of latched but not quite enough
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
High point again at pocket, latched on tips but fell off trying the one arm chinup wiggle trying to get them deeper. Then did few times the crux sequence but had to stop at shuffle, it's just too hard when gased. I reconsidered going for a small dyno skipping the shuffle and it worked straight away, I did it like 10x and I was so tired towards the end and it still worked. Major progress. Going through the 2nd&3rd jam seems now to be a formality, just have to latch the pocket and that's it. Shot 71
Wed 21st Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Great conditions, almost fell off gaston again, 2nd lock not good, fell off going for 3rd
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
High Point!!! Cruised through gaston at last, 2nd lock perfect, 3rd lock not great, crimp, chinup foot up, dyno to pocket first pads in but didn't latch. With retrospective I knew the 3rd lock wasn't good but knew I could chin-up foot up but it seems like I need 3rd lock to be good to pull my body in enough to stick the dyno. Next time I'll try to reset 3rd lock from crimp before progressing further.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Not bad, fell off touching crimp
Sat 17th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Spoogy today, no chances, only good point is I'm getting a hold on that start that was bothering me, def pinkie on top at gaston. 2nd lock was so bad that I didn't even try going for the third.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Spoogy, still got better at start and gaston move will hopefully compromise the crux section anymore. At least try to ge 3rd lock but didn't even touch it. Decided that was it for the day and added some milleage going from Entry crimps through crux locks up to hand shuffle about 4x in a row without too much fuss
Wed 14th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
RH34% Still struggling with start Gaston, tape overlaps too close, need 2mm between layers, fell off and lock
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
RH30% Almost fell off start Gaston slipping, fell off tips in 3rd lock desperately going for crimp
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
RH30% Got back to pinkie on top of Gaston and gained some traction, still not cruisy, I was so in control on that one, perfect 2nd lock, took my time to reach up for 3rd but one split second before locking, 2nd failed. Did multiple overlaps from entry crimps to crux crimp to warm down.
Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Shot #60
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Perfect conditions, perfect execution until I didn't dropknee enough and 2nd lock not deep, there goes down the dominos.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Wed 7th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Conditions felt quite good despite a shocking 99% RH, I probably ignore relative humidity from now on... Felt strong on all moves, forgot to clip crux nut than reassessed/realised and clipped, too much tape... index didn't get in 2nd lock... feels like the goldilocks story too much/not enough ;-)
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Felt super strong unreal, botched 2nd lock didn't get third
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Total control, 2nd lock perfect, not enough juice to pull to establish 3rd perfect, still kept going, didn't stick crimp, lowered to crux entry crimps and climbed effortlessly through all locks, struggled at shuffle but kept going then topout is a formality. This is happening soon.
Fri 2nd Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Conditions quite good. Had to fight through lower section, I thought this was sorted, not. Too much tape again index didn't get in ok, well I thought this was sorted too... sta down at crux trying all combinations of taping until chunks of skin started to peel off at 1st knuckle, So I decided to cover the now bloddy first knuckle with one layer and 4 between knuckles, that worked marginally. I figured out that even though I was torquing a lot so the fingers are locking, well that wasn't enough. So latest beta is torque as much as you can, then torque more.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Sounded like I had the winning recipe... Fell off "before" 2nd lock oh dear. Started from crimps and this time it worked really well, fell off at hand shuffle
Tue 30th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
After two weeks, can't expect too much. Conditions ordinary but not bad, after all that rain the crack isn't seeping at all like if nothing happened. Struggled again at beginning gaston to wedge pocket, need to sort this out, should be easy. Got a bit too excited with the tape on first knuckle and it just didn't get in 2nd lock. Removed one layer (3tot) and was better but nothing like last session, need 4 towards 1st knuckle but not onto it... finally got through to the hand shuffle but couldn't cross under, need to work on crimp/pinch strength.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Sorted out gaston to wedge pocket. I was trying to get vertical push with two fingers on top of gaston but it's pointless; better full gaston and get the lift from footwork, back to easy... that's good. Tape was as best latest beta 4 layers towards 1st knuckle, felt ok but not cruisy and didn't stick 3rd lock. Then struggled at cross under on hand shuffle fell off there too. Aided back to RH in pocket and cruised to topout. Top part is unreal just too good.
Mon 15th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Conditions ok, 72%RH. Bad 1st lock, bad 2nd lock, foot popped at reset
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
2nd lock felt quite good but could not progress from it. Repeated reach to 3rd lock with disconcerting ease about 7 times to find that the RH index tape creeped towards the first knuckle and this might be the key to the crux. Next try I'll tape towards 1st knuckle. Shot 50.
Wed 10th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Great conditions. Skipping gear at the start makes me somehow nervous and is counterproductive atm. Fell off going for 3rd jam. More micro details: 2nd jam reset works very well with left foot up and drop knee. Tape beta was most probably wrong for the last few sessions, needs to be closer to second knuckle. When going for 3rd jam keep right leg straight down instead of flagging, left foot pointing rather than edging
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Fell off going for 3rd jam.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Fell off going for 3rd jam.
Fri 5th Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Great condos 17deg 50%H. Was weak on start at gaston, fell off at 2nd jam not touching 3rd
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Wow felt so strong, still not enough, 2nd jam perfect fell with one pad in 3rd jam
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Solid as, still had to reset 2nd jam, two pads in 3rd jam very marginal, fell next move with the crimp didn't quite latch.
Mon 1st Mar 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Felt even more slimy as %H goes down, gave up at pinch, it's pointless.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Managed my way to crux, fell off 2nd jam again. Only positive is I felt two major fine tuning differences: drop the knee deep before 2nd jam, with imperfect 2nd jam, reposition LH foot up whilst keeping drop knee solid, that's the exact position where the 2nd jam becomes solid enough to progress and bring body inline with crack.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Felt a tad slippery despite 20deg and sub 60%H. Fell off second jam.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Felt totally slimy and now 45%H and only 23deg, fell off at beginning after RH gaston. What is going on?
Sat 20th Feb 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Humidity over 95%. Ultra efficient on the start: the start is now becoming a formality and takes a mere 30s to get through. Got up to third jam but on tips.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Humidity dropping to a crispy 84%. Got 2nd jam perfect but got all uncoordinated on getting the third.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
failed at third jam, lowered to crux entry crimps and without too much rest went through the complete crux section then topped out, this is a major overlapped one sitter. By this time, sun was shinning down the creek and licking the overhang angle, I had the sun in my eyes at the last move of the crux. Humidity was down to an amazing sub 60% and I could see the difference in the colour of the rock. Bring on the friction! Oh I measured the angle of the crux section at 60deg overhanging, pfff no wonder why finger locks don't feel that great!
Wed 17th Feb 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Humidity 92%, good shot though, didn't get second jam perfect, still went for third without success
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Highpoint! Second jam was quite good, still, kept pushing fingers in further, got third jam, then crimp, left foot up, botch the trow for the pocket. I never fell for the pocket before, I had still plenty left in the tank I think I was just too surprised! Once I have the pocket, there's still the hand shuffle and wrist kneebar to do but these moves are nowhere as hard as the 2nd jam.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
good shot, didn't get second jam perfect, third jam just tips in, not a chance
Sun 14th Feb 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Belayer had no harness so just played safe with the tree belay and aided to TR crux. From Entry crimps all the way to pocket twice in a row, even did the hand shuffle at the second go. This is the first time I linked through the crux from entry. I did several other tries focussing on moving from 2nd to 3rd jam and noticed going from 3 layers to 4 layers on RH index made an amazing difference. Humidity was 67% and crack was showing some white chalk instead the usual brown. Shot 32.
Wed 10th Feb 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Warming up, felt slippery (85% humidity), destroyed another yellow X4
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Although I was a smidge under the highpoint this was my best shot at it. I felt that was it. Felt strong at every moves until I botched the backstep reaching crux 2nd jam, it popped and down I went.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Went straight down to start anchor from shot #2 and rested few minutes and went for it. Not bad got to 2nd jam on tips only and desperately leaped for third jam. Worked on the crux several times but I guess I was too tired. Did the rest of the climb with difficulty and topped out. Just measured the rope length between the start anchor and topout where you can untie the rope is 24m.
Sun 31st Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Dreadful conditions, building up muscle memory. Climbed up to the roof, just fantastic climbing. Shot #28
Wed 27th Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Friction ok as the mist doesn't seem to reach under the roof with easterlies. Low pocket proved useful at resetting the start pinch. Found new footwork at double crimp so I can now breath and chalk prior to crux entry. Extended crux nut so not much rope to pull out to clip. High point hopping for third jam with second jam half way in, then did triple jam sequence 5 times working on details falling only once. Understand now better the first jam is now almost a side pull high Left foot Drop knee right and bring shoulders more in line with the crack so the cross over RH to second jam thumb down can be established properly. Then feet straight under I need to work on my RH scapular pull to reach LH third jam. Stopped at crux crimp avoiding wearing myself out doing pocket hand shuffle etc. Shot#27
Thu 21st Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Skipped the pocket clip which is not only saving the strenuous clip itself but all the footwork shuffle related. No longer need to use the pocket. Although the crack isn't wet at crux, colour is brown which means sub-optimal, anything sub-optimal makes the whole thing impossible for me. Strategy now is to warmup climbing to crux and lower off. Rest and jug back up the rope to crux with blower and ISO Alcohol, bring it back to white bone dry and tram back to start anchor, rethread and fire up within 10min otherwise condos go back to sub-optimal brown. Tried with tape on RH middle finger 2nd pad but finger won't get in, tried crux again with no tape at all, not working without RH index 2nd pad taped. Felt really strong at crux entry reaching high with minimal effort. Climbed up to hand shuffle and stopped to save my elbow tendons, took the fall there, nice clean fall onto mid-crux nut. Shot 26
Mon 11th Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Warming up, although the crack looks dry you can feel the water table pushing through the rock pores.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Slipping off the triple jam every single move, cruised trough the crux end and the top, this is easy now no real need to rest, stopped at roof cause it's a pain in the ass to walk back down.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Trying triple jam multiple times, it's just not working today, didn't make it through the hand shuffle either, nice fall at least... OMG shot #25... this is becoming a real siege.
Wed 23rd Dec 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
No improvements today, friction good on crimps/pockets but average in crack. Felt weak as a rag, at least I did the roof exit again which is just tricky enough, it's a great feeling to top out, I managed rope drag better this time staying left and out on easy ground. Shot#22
Sun 20th Dec 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Conditions improved greatly to spoogy. Worked out a way to consolidate second jam by progressively pushing fingers in while moving body leftward. Keeping pinky out helps.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Took several falls from mid-crux ending up touching the rock face at start anchor. I felt quite uncomfortable to progress further without being able to clip extra gear. I never contemplated clipping the mid crux nut before but I progressed so much on the start moves that I could clip it with ease! It breaks the flow a bit but frees my mind for the remainder of the crux. I took several falls from the crux end onto the mid-crux nut and the falls are beautiful. Just need my dodgy elbow to hold up and good friction to come back, this was my 21st shot.
Tue 15th Dec 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
100% humidity with the light drizzle creeping under the 15m overhang, not the best condos. Still worked out few important details.
Thu 10th Dec 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) - with Pedro V	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Another highpoint to the third jam but the jam wasn't set well enough to progress to the crimp. Sat down and did some fine tuning on the finger jams as they have to be absolutely perfect, then with first jam established did all the way through the crux and section III then through the roof for the first time and exited GR23ish with horrendous rope drag on very easy ground, untied the rope and walked off. GOLD!!!
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) - with Pedro V	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Felt a bit tired but went for it anyways. Another breakthrough, from crimps at crux entry went all the way to the third jam fully established and ready to hop for the crimp. I backed off there as the next bit would have been a compromise on my elbow rehab.
Sun 6th Dec 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Friction was amazing today. did all moves again and linked most sections. The top section goes down casually now.
Mon 30th Nov 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Forgot to tape the RH index critical for the 2nd crux jam. Tried different combinations of fingers but none are solid enough. Friction was very ordinary today. Linked again from crux end pocket to roof exit for the first time. The roof is good fun as expected with heel hooks but the exit looks trickier. I stopped there as it needs more cleaning.
Tue 17th Nov 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
No striking progress today, have to accept the slow process
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Man that crux is intense, shot #14 right?, that thing has got to be more than gr29
Tue 10th Nov 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Warming up and not trying too hard this time. This allowed me to fine tune everything before and after the crux
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Break through. Climbed from start anchor to crux entry. From crux jams 2&3 established from rest climbed the remaining 7 moves of the crux then all the way up to under roof. Getting closer to pinkpoint! Major linkups!
Fri 6th Nov 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) - with nathaniel glavurdic, Luke Hef	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Not feeling as strong today perhaps need a full week between sessions
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) - with nathaniel glavurdic, Luke Hef	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
did good progress linking from crux 1st & 2nd jam established sitting on the rope did 3rd jam, crimp, pocket LH, shuffle 1, shuffle 2, pocket RH, crack sidepull, jug. Found some very useful taping beta right index second pad helps tremendously on ironstone pinch and 2nd jam. Subsequently Nathaniel skipped the shuffle and the crack sidepull to go directly for from pocket LH to jug which makes more sense than the horrible shuffle. I just never contemplated trying, next time.
Tue 3rd Nov 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) - with nathaniel glavurdic	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Best session so far. The crux is dry despite the recent rain, very good news indeed.
Tue 27th Oct 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) - with nathaniel glavurdic	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Drying the triple overhanging finger jam with isopropyl alcohol and blower, a real promising technique. So the current beta is from double crimp, reach high with RH thumb down pinching an tiny ironstone then reach LH very high bad jam thumb up focussing on wedging pinkie down (and it's so thin you have to hammer this home) then drop knee right leg keeping hips in crossing with RH thumb down proper jam (still bad) reaching up with LH thumb up side pull go for crimp right with RH leaning hard right reaching LH on good pocket straight up then you stuffed you have to match so reach out right RH bad crimp no feet move LH out of pocket on that shitty crimp thumb catch so you can cross RH in that pocket finally. Then do what you can with no feet but reach high LH left good jam side pull, left foot up then boom magic knee bar off your left forearm and reach up glory jug RH. This is like 2m of climbing and I didn't describ too much the footwork.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) - with nathaniel glavurdic	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Drying the triple overhanging finger jam with isopropyl alcohol and blower, a real promising technique. So the current beta is from double crimp, reach high with RH thumb down pinching an tiny ironstone then reach LH very high bad jam thumb up focussing on wedging pinkie down (and it's so thin you have to hammer this home) then drop knee right leg keeping hips in crossing with RH thumb down proper jam (still bad) reaching up with LH thumb up side pull go for crimp right with RH leaning hard right reaching LH on good pocket straight up then you stuffed you have to match so reach out right RH bad crimp no feet move LH out of pocket on that shitty crimp thumb catch so you can cross RH in that pocket finally. Then do what you can with no feet but reach high LH left good jam side pull, left foot up then boom magic knee bar off your left forearm and reach up glory jug RH. This is like 2m of climbing and I didn't describ too much the footwork.
Thu 22nd Oct 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
The crux was rather moist today. Hopefully it will get dryer with warmer weather. Good flow on the easier sections.
Tue 20th Oct 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Top progress, the crack is very clean now and doesn't hurt too bad. No need for tape, lucky cause that'd wouldn't fit!2 moves I still have to work out how to do.
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project)	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Could finally do several moves without grabbing the gear
Wed 14th Oct 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) - with nathaniel glavurdic	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
Second try starting this time at the Section 2. Oh so much nicer than section 1, it climbs soooo well! There are 3-4 moves I have to figure out but looks definitely possible and not too painful for a finger crack. My guess is around grade 30 but could well be easier. Did section 3 to the roof, it felt like salsa dancing, this is a real gem possibly grade 25. Roof is probably approx gr22. Still need to solidify a rattly critical footwork and clean up some broken ironstone but it's getting there. I'm learning to trust the gear as it's mostly yellow Z4. WOW!
Mon 28th Sep 2020 - Blue Mountains
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Mother Earth
	31	★★★ Mother Earth (Mother Earth Project) - with Will Vidler	Trad 24m		Jacques Beaudoin
First attempt to sus out if the first section is somehow possible. My impression is a plain no. No feet, bad jams and wildly steep. So I'll leave this to some kind of mutan and I won't clean it further. This is the shortest and the least attractive part of the line and I'll just fix a rope and jumar up to section two which looks more in the grade 30 range followed by section three looking like gr26.

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