Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lone star | ||||||
5.6 ~5.5 | ★ Highball | Don't Bother | ||||
Gear isn't the most confidence inspiring, but I don't think the climbing is harder than 5.5.
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Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Wabun Lake | ||||||
Lake Cliff aka Ant Hill | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Juicy Ass | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Fun chimney climbing to a touch finish. Gear is generally good, though I had to do a bit of gardening for a placement at one point.
Might be 5.8+ if clean. |
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5.6 ~5.5 | Detour | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Dirty, like all almost all the trad routes.
Wasn't 5.6, though, but probably harder than 5.4, so likely 5.5. |
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Lake Cliff Right Side | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ Marcus' Route | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
If not for the bird shit, would get an extra *.
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Manuels | ||||||
German Face | ||||||
5.5 | ★ (wandering trad line) | 30m | ★ Good | |||
An enjoyable trad ramble.
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Fri 11th Aug 2023 - Manuels | ||||||
Baby Face | ||||||
5.7 Hard | ★ (left-leaning crack) | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Takes decent gear. More engaging than I expected looking at it from the ground -- negotiating the way the right side of the crack leans out over the face makes it feel a lot steeper than it actually is.
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - Flatrock | ||||||
Main Face | ||||||
5.7 PG13 | ★ Arms Race | 20m | ||||
5.6 ~5.6 | ★★ Noggin' | 25m | ||||
Solid gear and good stances all the time. No harder than 5.6, I'd say.
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Swift Current | ||||||
Tiger Slabs | ||||||
5.6 ~5.5 | ★★ Tiger Woods | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun little trade route, with generally good gear. Was told 5.7 (and that local trad grades were stiff), so kept placing gear in case things got hard, but they never did. Probably 5.5, but I'll leave it with the 5.6 down-grade on here.
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5.10c ~5.10b | ★★ Served By Destiny | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A lot of fun to TR. Looks like it probably takes good gear, too, but that might cost some holds, unclear. I haven't done a leaning crack like this, with toe-hooking, in ages.
5.10c seems very soft, I don't climb 5.10c anymore, and got this clean. Felt more like 10b. |
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Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Lone star | ||||||
5.3 | ★★ Mécanique non-autorisé | ★ Good | ||||
First protection is a touch high, but fall isn't too intimidating.
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Red Rock: Pet Wall | ||||||
Main Wall The Laboratory | ||||||
5.5 ~5.7 | ★ The Mute | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Paroi Laurin - La Macaza | ||||||
5.6 Hard | Le Couloir | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Quite dirty, which detracted from the experience, if cleaned up, I think would deserve a second star.
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5.8 Easy | ★ Salut Québec | 19m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Lone star | ||||||
5.6 Easy | Pile poil | 2 | Don't Bother | |||
5.5 Hard | ★ La vieille | 1 | Average | |||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Métaphysique de Descartes | 20m, 3 | Average | |||
5.6 | ★★ No Pain, No Gain | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Mont Ste-Marie | ||||||
Rock Area | ||||||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Parnoosh Paradox | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 Easy | ★★★ Brown Bomber | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Others had trouble at different parts of this, but I found it easy going (for 5.9) the whole way.
I need to lead this on my next visit. |
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Sat 27th May 2023 - Lone star | ||||||
5.9 ~5.8 | ★★ 4 à 6 | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
It might be size dependent, but I'm not sure this is 5.9, or if it is, it is only to pull onto the rock, and once you're established the rest isn't.
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5.6 Easy | ★★ Haute en couleur | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Perhaps the best route at the crag - and an all-Tricam lead.
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5.6 | ★★ La voie normale | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★ Rencontre au sommet | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Thin/PG at the start.
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5.5 | ★★ Trois fois rien | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.5 | ★★ La quatre voies | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Also a bit PG/runout in places, but not at the grade.
|
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5.8 | ★ Sans mes varappes | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Thin at the start and the gear is a bit PG.
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5.4 | ★ Gourgandine | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Nice warm-up.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Bolton | ||||||
Upper West Upper Tier | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Ledangier | 34m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 20th May 2023 - Bolton | ||||||
Upper West Lower Tier | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Erica's Ass Crack | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ The Bookend | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some technical climbing, at times above thin gear.
|
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Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Mont Ste-Marie | ||||||
Rock Area | ||||||
★★ Parnoosh Peach | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hand-jamming goodness; but steep.
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Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Rocher du Capitaine | ||||||
Les voies | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Relampago | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ DragonFly | 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Zenith | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Variante Relampago | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Since I'd already climbed Relampago, instead of finishing up the crack, I finished directly up. Probably a 5.9 finish.
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5.7 | ★ La Centrale | ★ Good | ||||
5.5 | ★★ Menhir’ai pas en Ukraine | ★ Good | ||||
5.6 | ★ Petit Stuart | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Saint-Alph | ||||||
Hestia | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Hellboy | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★ Mycologie Grecque | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 30th Jul 2022 - La montagne du Tranchant | ||||||
Secteur du Centre | ||||||
5.7 |
★★ Météorites (Météorites P1)
1
5.7
25m
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The steep corner that is the second half of this pitch is excellent climbing, and takes good gear.
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Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Vallée Perdue (center left) | ||||||
5.6 5.6 G | ★★ (zig-zag cracks) | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Vallée Perdue (Farthest Left) | ||||||
5.6 | ★ (groove and crack) | 22m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing to the first anchor; slab would have been more interesting if left with just the first bolt for the transfer to the cracks.
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Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur Cathédrale | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Metal Cheetah strikes again | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun trad climb -- worth the couple minutes walk over. There was good gear everywhere I wanted it. Maybe a bit soft in the grade, too.
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Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
Mur de l'Université | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Chasseur de primes | 9 | ★ Good | |||
Did it as pure sport -- just committed to the run-out at the finger-crack near the end. Would be far more comfortable with a piece in the crack.
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Sun 8th May 2022 - Mont Ste-Marie | ||||||
Rock Area | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Furry Tractor | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good gear and good climbing.
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5.8 5.8 PG | ★ Harvard | ★ Good | ||||
Borrowed and place a #6 on this. But, probably ok with a #4, then smaller gear at the back of the ledge, rather than the #6 in the wide crack.
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Mon 26th Jul 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) North End | ||||||
5.3 | ★ Crack and Jugs | 12m | ||||
In sandals
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Sat 1st May 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
5.6 | ★ You Can't Judge a Book by its Cover | 28m | ★ Good | |||
It was an adventure.
Some of it was wet -- dunno if overnight rain, or still seeping from the winter melt. And, it felt like winter may have washed some more dirt and grit onto the climb, too. Gear was... interesting... but usually there when you wanted it. (Except, maybe, the crux.) It didn't feel like 5.6 on lead... but I climbed it again on TR and... ok... stiff 5.6. |
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Tue 27th Apr 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) North End | ||||||
5.4 | ★ Nameless | 18m | Average | |||
This was a fun trad adventure, even anchored on a tree at the end!
Hard to judge quality... if cleaned up, would like rate good->very good, but currently really dirty, mossy, and with some loose blocks. |
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Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) North End | ||||||
5.2 | ★ Another Stroll | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Takes good gear.
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5.6 | ★ (Another trad route) | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Harder and with not as good gear compare to "Another Stroll".
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Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Good Intentions | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Was planning to re-climb Stairway to Hell, but after pulling the initial section, instead of heading right, I spotted a lovely hand-crack to the left, so I decided to head up to it and climb it. I had...
And the road to hell is paved with... |
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Thu 3rd Sep 2020 - West Kootenays | ||||||
Castlegar Kinnaird Bluffs Whirlwind Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Invisible Crack | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The WKRG update describes this as a "gear-eating crack" -- but it isn't my idea of a such. To me, that means, anywhere you stop, you've got at least a couple good placements within easy reach. Not so on this. The gear isn't bad... but it isn't "gear-eating crack" quality of good.
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Thu 3rd Sep 2020 - West Kootenays | ||||||
Castlegar Kinnaird Bluffs Yellow Sling Wall | ||||||
5.4 | ★★ Exfoliation | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climbing up exfoliating flakes and slabs above the ledge.
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5.5 | ★★★ Broken Corner | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good gear and good climbing throughout.
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5.9 5.8 | ★★★ Fine Line | 27m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 1st Sep 2020 - West Kootenays | ||||||
Castlegar Kinnaird Bluffs Polished Wall | ||||||
5.6 5.7 | ★ Son of a Birch | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Far easier than "Reluctant Gardner". I' not sure it is harder than 5.5 -- but I might call it 5.6 for one move.
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5.7 | ★★ Reluctant Gardner | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is NOT the same 5.7 trad climbing as "Son of a Birch".
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Mon 31st Aug 2020 - West Kootenays | ||||||
Slocan Valley Slocan Bluffs Roadside | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Sahara | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Getting off the ledge and established in the corner crack was an interesting challenge. Takes good gear once at the crack.
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5.6 | ★ Sunny Side Up | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Early gear is a bit iffy, but otherwise pretty good.
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Tue 4th Aug 2020 - La montagne du Tranchant | ||||||
Secteur du Centre | ||||||
5.5 | Babylone/Bagdad | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 | Requiem pour un Camionneur | 31m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
It was still a bit to quite wet in places from the rain -- so dirty, too. But quite climbable.
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Sun 6th Oct 2019 - Weir | ||||||
Adagio | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ (Crack in the Corner) | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lead P1, followed P2.
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Thu 5th Sep 2019 - Banff | ||||||
Tunnel Mountain | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Gooseberry | 250m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lead all the pitches -- lots of fun climbing.
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Thu 2nd May 2019 - Peñón de Ifach | ||||||
South Face | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Valencianos | 260m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
I climbed this with Kate & Simon -- lead pitches 3 (crux), 5, and linked 7+8 (scramble) at the end -- wasn't going to belay at P7 belay as I was being dive-bombed by a sea gull who's nest was nearby.
Why I'm glad I did the route, the climbing was mostly lack-luster. Pitches 1 & 2 are dirty, polished, and easy. Pitch 3 is an unpleasant polished off-width. Pitch 4, after the badly polished start is ok climbing. Only pitches 5 and 6 have truly good climbing. And pitches 7 & 8 are mostly hiking/scrambling rather than really climbing. On the flip side, the ridge position at the end of pitch 5 is stunning, and the formation itself calls out to be climbed, and this is one of the few moderate routes to the summit. |
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Sun 21st Apr 2019 - Shawangunks | ||||||
The Trapps South Brat End | ||||||
5.4 |
Short Job (Short Job P1)
1
5.4
130 ft
| 40m | ★ Good | |||
5.3 5.3 PG | ★ 69 | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 18th Aug 2018 - Salt Lake City | ||||||
Big Cottonwood Canyon Strone Crag | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Starstruck | 67m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gear wasn't as good as on "Outside Corner".
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Sat 18th Aug 2018 - Salt Lake City | ||||||
Big Cottonwood Canyon JHCOB wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Outside Corner | 91m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 7th Aug 2018 - Laramie | ||||||
Vedauwoo Nautilus Northwest End | ||||||
5.5 | ★ Cornelius | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 6th Aug 2018 - Laramie | ||||||
Vedauwoo West Central Walt's Wall Area | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Edward's Crack | 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Followed P1, lead P2.
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5.4 | ★ Walt's Wall Route | 76m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lead P1 & P3, followed P2.
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Tue 31st Jul 2018 - Devils Tower National Monument | ||||||
South Face | ||||||
5.8 5.7 | ★★ Durrance | 200m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Swung pitches, starting with p1. (Nobody lead meadows traverse.)
Lovely enjoyable -- but get on it early to avoid the crowds. |
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Thu 26th Jul 2018 - Needles | ||||||
The Cathedral Spires | ||||||
5.3 |
★★ Spire Two, East Face
1
5.3
2
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
Linked P1 and P2. Then had to retreat due to incoming thunderstorm -- pouring rain and hail by the time we'd finish rappelling.
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Sat 21st Jul 2018 - Whitehorse Ledge | ||||||
The Slabs | ||||||
5.7 5.7 II | ★ Wedge | ★ Good | ||||
Lead all pitches except 3, 6, 9.
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Tue 26th Jun 2018 - Eagle's Nest | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
5.5 5.9 | ★ Lichen It | 55m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The opening slab, until just past the first bolt is nothing like 5.5 (at least 5.8, maybe 5.9). After that, everything was reasonable for a slightly-stiff 5.5.
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5.6 | ★★ Perspective | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent climbing, though wide in places. I got to place a couple big tri-cams, a C4 #4, and a Camalot #5.
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Sun 17th Jun 2018 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) The Far End | ||||||
5.6 5.6 G | ★★ Addition to Tradition ((unknown trad route)) | 20m | ||||
A lovely traverse with great gear the whole way.
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Mon 21st May 2018 - Val-David | ||||||
Mont Césaire Valse | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ La Valse | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First pitch is 3***, second pitch is meh.
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Mon 21st May 2018 - Val-David | ||||||
Mont Césaire Chico | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Muchacho | 23m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 21st May 2018 - Val-David | ||||||
Mont Césaire L'Arabesque | ||||||
5.6 5.4 | ★★ La Grande Envolée (La Grand Envolee) | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start was wet, so climbed right of it, making the start a bit harder.
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5.5 | ★ Sortie Lavallée (Sortie Lavallee) | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 20th May 2018 - La montagne du Tranchant | ||||||
Secteur du Centre | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Mésopotamie | 18m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mostly easy blocky climbing, but one thinner (5.6) section. Takes gear well.
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Mon 26th Mar 2018 - Red Rock | ||||||
Oak Creek Canyon Solar Slab Area | ||||||
5.3 | ★ Solar Slab Gully | 150m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun at the grade.
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Sun 1st Oct 2017 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
Secteur les Escaliers | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Le Diedre | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just an absolutely excellent climb. Great gear throughout, many interesting problems, but, assuming you have the climbing vocabulary, never harder than 5.8.
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Sat 16th Sep 2017 - Alice Roadside | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Easy Way Up | 7m | ★ Good | |||
Soaking wet slab at the start -- but ok once established on the climb.
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Tue 5th Sep 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Shannon Falls Shannon Falls Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Klahanie Crack | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lovely easy crack up the slab.
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5.10a | ★★ Split Decision | 30m, 4 | ||||
Easier than I expected.
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5.8 | ★★★ Skywalker | 140m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 4th Sep 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Baldwin Crack Area | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Beginner's Luck | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 4th Sep 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Bog Wall | ||||||
5.8 5.9 | ★★ Up From the Bog | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Stiff for its grade, and getting polished.
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Mon 4th Sep 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Lakeside-in-the-Woods & Commonwealth | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Smells Like Fir | 15m | Average | |||
Felt harder than "Tastes Like Chicken", the 5.9 to the right of it.
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5.8 | ★★ Stihl Cleaning | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 4th Sep 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Valley of the Lost Tribe | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ 50 Lashes With a Wet Noodle | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Mixed up the finish.
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5.7 | Top Ramen | 8m | Average | |||
5.6 | All You Can Eat Pasta Buffet | 15m | Average | |||
Mixed up the finish.
|
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Sat 2nd Sep 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Lakeside-in-the-Woods & Commonwealth | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Ancient Squamish Secret | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thin crack in the upper face was easier than it looked from the ground -- bonus horizontals.
|
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5.8 | ★ Partners in Grime | 22m | ★ Good |