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Ascents in Mount Buffalo as various tick types by Elias

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Showing all 13 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Tue 2nd Jan 2018 - Mount Buffalo
Mackeys Lookout
11 13 Noblesse Oblige - with Dan Marshman Mixed trad 420m, 6
Cool! Never climbed such a tall slab before. We had a lot of fun. Got along quite quickly, once we were on the right route (tipp: start as it says in the description at the left leaning bushy crack and not the right leaning one 20m left of it! This is Good luck and Managment and a bit harder and longer).

Took us about 35min to get from the car to the start of the climb. Yellow tape and a few cairns help. Stash a bike at the top or walk for a bit over 1h back to the car.

You could basically leave your complete rack at the car and just take a hand full of draws and some slings with you. There are fixed hangers (no carrots!), but not too many of them. One or two per pitch, if even. I oftentimes thought I might as well have left the rope in the car. So if you don't feel very confident going up easy (but still exposed and serious) slabs without having anything to hold on to, don't do it. Take comfortable climbing shoes (I climbed with runners, which I would NOT do again). The route finding is pretty ovious and straight forward, if you read the description. Sun-exposure is quite high (it was at least when we did it before midday). What else is there to say? It's good fun and you make many climbing metres very quickly. Enjoy and take care!

 
Mon 1st Jan 2018 - Mount Buffalo
The Cathedral
17 Bloodnok - with Dan Marshman Trad 27m Very Good
found the roofy bit awkward and quite hard for a 17, but maybe that was just me climbing it wrong. The finger-/handcrack afterwards is awesome!!

 
Mon 1st Jan 2018 - Mount Buffalo
The Horn Area The Horn
20 Peroxide Blonde - with Dan Marshman Sport 18m, 5
something special! Very nice!!

 
Mon 1st Jan 2018 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
21 Bannister's Rush - with Dan Marshman Trad 55m
That one looked really daunting and intimidating to me on the rappel. I almost wanted to ascend back up on the rope. Glad I didn't, because once I started climbing it was perfectly fine and much easier than excpected (not easy though!). Dirty and mossy. An adventure

 
Mon 1st Jan 2018 - Mount Buffalo
The Hump Area The Hump
18 The Initiation - with Dan Marshman Mixed trad 90m, 1
Great climb and the first one in 2018! You get down with a single fixed 60m rope. We linked the first two pitches together. Interesting and fun 3rd pitch. Very enjoyable jamming in pitch 4, unfortunately only a few meters.

 
Sun 31st Dec 2017 - Mount Buffalo
The Horn Area Dreamworld
18 Spaceman Spiff - with Dan Marshman Sport 15m, 6
nice! Broke off a foothold at the top though, very unexpected

 
20 This Is Not Our Land - with Dan Marshman Sport 15m, 3
Really good and quite tricky up there

 
21 21 to 23 Injustice - with Dan Marshman Mixed trad 15m, 4
'21 to 23' is indeed true I guess. For me (180cm on a good day) it was a 21, but I wouldn't know how to climb it if I was shorter.

 
Sun 31st Dec 2017 - Mount Buffalo
The Horn Area The Horn
14 The Pintle - with Dan Marshman Trad 70m
rapped down with a fixed 60m rope. Did the left hand variant and instead of pitch 3 Peroxide Blonde.

 
16 The Pintle Left Hand Variant - with Dan Marshman Mixed trad 70m, 1
Great!

 
Sun 31st Dec 2017 - Mount Buffalo
The Cathedral
20 Sultan - with Dan Marshman Trad 65m
Awesome! Tricky in parts. Great rock formation

 
Sat 30th Dec 2017 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim
20 Home James - with Dan Marshman Mixed trad 30m, 4
Awesome fun!! A bit balancy in parts. The dyke is a great feature. Bolt plates and you might want to take some small (0.5ish) cams.

 
16 Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé - with Dan Marshman Trad 30m
very nice little climb

 

Showing all 13 ascents.

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