Ascents as Onsight, Onsight solo or Greenpoint onsight as sport by Dean

Linked both pitches, though I took my shoes off to rest my toes at the belay ledge.

Maybe I didn't get the full sustained crimp experience since I clipped off plenty of jugs on the left side of the line. Wasn't really in the mood for contrived moves - my right arm was cramping and my toes hurt.

Pitch 2 is only "thought provoking" in the sense of "I wonder which holds are going to snap off".

linked both pitches. Very similar to 'My way or the highway', and lots of bolts.

linked both pitches

typical blueys crimps and throws, but with an atypical lack of chalk

gear already on (and Luke told me to go right at the top - so maybe only a flash?). I ended up going up with high feet rather than using the microcrimps (already bleeding everywhere). The sidepull in the crack was too thin to get my tips in too, but I used it as a LH sidepull and tenuously moved my feet up.

my toes were very sore.

The blank section around the second bolt went easier than (Jess) expected! Enough undercling/scum options + there are actually holds above the left slope.

Moving above the cave I think I pinched the chossy flake on the left and threw up my right hand which somehow stuck. On the higher traverse line I stayed low until the next bolt; the vertical line up the thin face ends in a jug of guano.

Good flow, best route of the day.

Okay so I can still climb jugs hooray.

Got a bit freaked out about the mono but found the appropriate foot placements to reach over it.

Stick clipped first bolt.

Crux was the thumb press move past the glued on flake

The first pitch is much more interesting climbing and NGL I took some decent breathers in the break under the roof while finding the jugs. Went once I committed to moving the left foot up.

Went direct from there as one long pitch with 60m doubles (with plenty of rope to spare). The second pitch makes a sharp left around the ironstone plates so worth extending the runners below these.

pink-sight. generous bolting. good delicate slab climbing at the grade. crux was climbing around the wet patch at the end of the first pitch.

I hauled on the flake a few moves below the top anchors but apparently it was crossed? Didn't fall off for me...

pink-sight. bad sign when you're getting flash pumped on your warmup

I thought the crux was the second last move to the anchors - just hauled on one of the unchalked crimps.

wandered through 'Ole Biscuit Barrel' then traversed left to finish on low anchors to avoid traffic on 'Cardinal Fang'.

Highlight of the climb is the boulder problem at the start (I went with the jump start, campus, heel hook; Ollie traversed in). Congratulations, drop back down to your boulder pad and be on your merry way.

Alternatively, thrutch up the crack (I used a thin-hand jam, which made things really awkward), then gingerly traverse right. If you don't like the sandy hand holds, it only gets worse, but at least here there are less-sandy side-pulls/underclings. Reach up for a sand-free jug (hope you're not short!) and mantle. P1 done.

Now get ready to climb a flake that is made out of lightly packed sand. Rest assured: the simplest (layback) moves are the moves that are most likely to rip it off the wall. Practise "silent feet" as you swing into the cave: the flake doesn't need any unnecessary shocks. Once you're awkwardly crouched in the cave you can take a moment to relax knowing that you're holding on to a solid* wall again. Everything up to this point should have conditioned you for grabbing on to generously sand-lubricated holds, but if you get in quick you may benefit from my efforts to push sand off the critical ones with my fingers. Find the next flake-jug (* then question whether the solid wall was an illusion) and make your way up to the anchors.

The world won't be worse off if this climb fades into Obscurity.

it's got some moves. I went left round the bulge. relatively good rock quality for Rosa, didn't find it slippery either (though some avoidable holds on the right were obviously wet).

cheeky jam made the start easier

pinkpoint onsight (someone else's draws).

crux around the last bolt where you get a crimp instead of a jug while you rearrange feet... nearly didn't notice the bolt there but it was appreciated once I'd clipped it and depumped a little

Stick clipped first bolt. Inefficient technique on the earlier climbs started to catch up to me on this one. Wandered right at one point when the direct line looked a bit thin.

Stick clipped first bolt. Found the start quite easy but had to get my grunt on later, especially for the awkward balance when getting out from under the rooflet.

Soft for 22.

what a relief to haul on some jugs after the trauma of 'Electric Blue'! Soft for a 20.

First climb of the day, I struggled a bit on the thin slab sections, esp. where the route split right. The hollow-sounding flake wasn't awe-inspiring either.

Used Walnuts #4 and #6 for the bottom.

Stoked to finally go climbing outdoors with Ev! While the guide claims the approach "keeps the hordes away", on a Sunday we still managed to meet another party on the trail heading to the same climb. Seems like none of us could see where the trail split off from the saddle, but we managed to bash through to the ledge anyway (I feel bad about the erosion though, the gully soil was very soft presumably after everything burned).

P1: the eroded/honeycomb chute to the right of the bolts offers plentiful jugs (not all of which threaten to break off), though I generally kept something on the face to the left (because that's where the bolts are). The moves only felt 17 but are sustained at that grade.

P2: Nice flowing climbing. Characterised by the many thin ironstone edges, again there are lots of holds though not all are trustworthy. The blunt, bulging arete threatens to add some pump, but rests can be easily found with a shift in body position and a handy jug.

P3: after a small ledge the holds thin out a bit, but there are some side pull things and small crimps at the crux, and when things are getting a bit desperate at the slopey break, there are some pockets at the back of that too. Admittedly I was feeling pumped as I topped out!

Fun climbing; hopefully not too many of the holds crumble away for future ascensionists.

warmup. start seems nails for 14?

pinkpoint-onsight

funnest climb of the day. anchors are widely-spaced so bring single-length slings.

bad-memory onsight? stick-clipped first bolt, spicy start... pockets are better than they look.

pretty proud to onsight this since I'm relatively bad at roofs. the plentiful jugs helped. did have a scare when my calf slipped off a shelf I was using as a lazy heel hook

tried to stay on the dry streak on the right of the arete as much as possible, but eventually had to grab the soaking wet jugs on the left of the arete

direct start. hidden jug to clip off near the end.

climb changes style as the rock changes to orange, last move is the crux

This route wasn't classic, but it was certainly typical for Blueys 17 sport - the sometimes-desperate search for jugs was reminiscent of learning to climb at Barden's.

took the corner start, first bolt stick-clipped. found some of these moves stiff for a 19 - one part after the route splits right I had to crank on a R fingerlock (nice place to drop a wire) because the feet were pretty blank and apparently I crimp wrong

fun laybacks and a few avoidable hollow-sounding holds

nice little kneebar in the cave. tried moving up direct from there but eventually wandered a bit right for the better holds

stick clipped first bolt. tried to start directly up pockets, which felt possible but instead I traversed a little left to make use of the flake. the climbing from there felt strenuous but the holds were actually very good (good handholds under flake and even the shallow pockets are great for feet).

Re: grading it felt maybe 18 but I was pouring sweat (30C & in the sun) so it's probably 16 in ideal conditions.

well the solo to the first bolt was fun, i guess the cave messed up the gridbolting pattern huh? interesting moves thereon up. the slopers above the anchors get hot in the sun!

most interesting climb I did all day, with some stemming and thought provocation but few moves

starting pockets full of spiderwebs, started a bit right