Ascents as Send, Red point, Tick, Repeat or First ascent as boulder by Sergey Komarov

Sit start

Send.

Foot slipped but recovered.

Repeat with new heel hook beta. Feels less marginal.

Repeat with old beta.

Four tries today. Each was good - the first three went from the ground to dyno, but couldn't latch the edge.

The last go almost felt easy - everything just fell into place for a smooth send. Wasn't even out of breath at the top.

Working first couple moves to warm up for Loadies Zen.

downclimb

Unclear exactly where it starts... I may have made it more difficult by starting further right, almost on the face.

Tricky, until it worked. Pulling off the ground is the crux.

Finally sent this one after working it a bit more.

Beta:

• start on obvious hands hand small right foot, back-flagging left
• left hand to upper portion of first hold on arete
• left foot to crimp left of arete
• dynamically shift weight to left foot and right hand. almost a drive-by.
• flag/smear right foot while inching to lip

Very much a skin-of-the-teeth send. But a send.

The thin flake next to broken foothold works to layback.

Was V3 before two key holds broke. Seems harder than that now.

Down climb

Down climb

Up climb

Downclimb

Downclimb

I could barely pull on to this in previous sessions and am not sure I even touched the second hold.

It was surprisingly straightforward today: just 4 attempts. Made the second move on my first attempt of the day. Third move on second attempt.

A beta spraydown helped. Probably also all the rest I've had the last few weeks.

#beta:

Started with right hand on the top/worse crimp, left hand on better crimp, left heel on nub on rail. Pull on and smear right foot just off ground.

Left hand to crimp. Right foot up to rail, hips open. Flag left foot. Pull hips close to wall. Right hand to good crimp.

Left foot to starting crimp. Shift weight under right hand. Cross left hand to poor crimp and use thumb catch. Right hand to crimp in dish. Right foot to nub on face.

Big move with right hand to ledgey jug. Cut feet and match.

Find feet on face and make big dead point. Climb to top.

#downclimb

#downclimb

Everything I hoped and dreamed.

Big first move with left hand. Right foot to nub between right hand and left foot. Left foot wide to level of starting crimps. Right hand to lip, bump to jug. Mantle.

#morpho

Nice to come back to this one I struggled on a long time ago and send first try.

Made a bunch of attempts on the dyno beta first. Didn't go.

Went first try with static beta.

Nice to return after quite a while and tick this one.

Pretty good for an eliminate!

#1

Easy. Locked off hard enough to pause and contemplate.

Felt easy once I went for the send. I have improved significantly since I last tried this.

No problem keeping my feet on those glassy nubs.

Went on first real try of the day.

Felt easy on the first try at the end of a long session.

Big lock off strength improvements since a year ago?

Sandbag? Or I just can't mantle?

Took a few tries to sort out good feet sequence.

#polished feet