Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Tue 27th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Kraken - with JD | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
p1, cleaning after JDs awesome lead, heady laybacking crux. Finger didn't seem to mind
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Wed 8th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
14 |
★★★ Sweet Dreams
- with
5*
1
14
20m
2
10
20m
3
13
28m
4
13
25m
5
14
40m
| 130m, 20 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
last pitch middle bolted into gear finish.
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Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Abseil Gully | ||||||
14 | ★★ Set, Piece, Battle - with 5 star | 50m, 8 | ||||
15 ~17 | ★★ Another Man's Juliet - with 5 star | 48m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Feels much more placid on the blunt end in approachies. Definately recommend the ~#1 cam slot out left rather than the nut behind marginal flake at the steepness.
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Mon 30th Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Abseil Gully | ||||||
14 | ★★ Set, Piece, Battle - with 5star crew, Lliam gabe | 50m, 8 | ||||
P1 - usual slabbing with spaced bolts/gear essentially P1 of Juliet, to right of the two DBB on the slab.
P2 - out left and up following spaced bolts supplemented by gear through steepness, followed by some more lower angle climbing with less gear than would be ideal. Felt easier than AMJ, but was seconding so hard to say. grAId calls this 16/17. |
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12 Easy | ★★ The Eyrie - with 5star crew, Lliam gabe | 45m, 3 | ||||
The usual mix of average to middling gear in the horizontal wander of the first pitch to the cave (many carrot inc. stainless GIMB with fixed hanger belay anchor) - probably worth keeping seconds low to ease rope mx.
Short second pitch out left of cave past dragons head, modern glue in bolt protected crux and up to top. Note - accessed via abseil gully - anchor massive non-stainless industrial eye bolt and some non-stainless carrots. |
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Fri 20th Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
11 | ★ Angular Crack | 25m | ||||
Loose block/flake at 2/3 could prolly go a trundle
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Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 ~16 | ★★ S.S.C.C.1 | 25m | ||||
Bolt protected crux
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15 | ★★ The Carthaginian | 33m | ||||
Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ The Obituary - with 5-star crew | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally actually climbed the route, by which I mean on TR.
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Tue 11th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
11 |
★ Prologue P1
- with
bridie
1
11
8m
| 8m | ||||
15 | ★★ Hope - with bridie | 15m | ||||
Decided to change it up and not wear approachies and fall off. Used as access to P2 flake
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity - with pat | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
yoyo I guess ?? Cleaning up pats 3/4 lead
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Wed 14th Sep 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts - with Michael Moore, Sarah | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Piddo day - star chasing
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Sat 16th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Black Bart | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 13th Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
So much funsies
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18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Woop woop, climbs even better then it looks.
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Sun 13th Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
8 | ★ Faith - with Nathan Eager | 52m | ||||
13 | ★ Charity - with Nathan Eager | 14m | ||||
Would welcome an explanation of how these climbs managed to score an anchor of about 15 bolts past and present...and it still looks jank. Two well placed stainless glue ins and some cammo chopped bolts anyone ???
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17 | ★★★ Flake Crack - with Nathan Eager | 53m | ||||
First pitch only
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Fri 15th Jan 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Windjammer - with infamous_snapgate | 30m | Average | |||
Approachies send
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Thu 14th Jan 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Jaws - with snapgate | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
16 | ★★ Man Overboard - with snapgate | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Approachies
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Sat 19th Dec 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ When the Levee Breaks - with Match | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sat 3rd Oct 2020 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Gibraltar Peak Summit Boulders | ||||||
12 | ★ Get Your Motors Running | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 2nd Sep 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ Joseph - with mikey mike | 46m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm ups
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17 | ★★★ Psychopath - with mikey mike | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Second in approachies, was a bit relucant to get back on it but feels like a must for each trip
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Thu 16th Jul 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Juggernaut - with snapgate, Sean Kelly | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Resigned myself to a mixed face and crack approach with good results. Will have to lead next time- few large cams, with a 5 and 2 sixes.
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Wed 15th Jul 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Following the hectic 2 pitch, 2 day siege self-yoyo approach by snapgate. Mega classic with a lovely finish !
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Wed 15th Jul 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Erg - with snapgate | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Snapgate tells me the tree anchor is a bit stuffed, recommends CIT bolted anchors.
Aided up a meter or two to check the gear for snapgates ascents given the routes history, all seemed fine. Beautiful route, awesome climbing. Paper book gives no stars, it can go get stuffed. |
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Tue 14th Jul 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice | 30m | ||||
18 | ★★ Elastic RURP | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Jam school with sean, felt a bit loose in approachies.
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Mon 13th Jul 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
good to have big gear for the opening moves
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19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ||||
Sat 11th Jul 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Warlock | 26m | ||||
That move right is wild on lead and seccond.
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Tue 7th Jul 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Icebird | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Quick second before the rain.
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Sat 20th Jun 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Superliner Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Superliner | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Recent rebolt - from upper stance fresh looking U bolts, single rack of cams +120 cm sling for thread.
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Sun 23rd Feb 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully | ||||||
14 | ★★ Gently Mine | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
No stuck cams today
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Fri 21st Feb 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully | ||||||
16 |
★★★ The Gates of Janus P1
1
16
20m
| 20m | ||||
Sun 1st Dec 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | ||||
So wild
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Sun 24th Nov 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 1st Aug 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Rickety Kate | 15m | ||||
Thu 1st Aug 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
So good, thin ?fradgile corner leads to glory hands
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19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ||||
Needed to lower after hanging to clean gear. The top crack is sooo good
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Wed 31st Jul 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible | 24m | ★ Good | |||
Three star crack, minus 2 for the poorly protected face climbing start.
One of the three Stuck cams has been cleaned. |
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Thu 18th Jul 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
17 |
★★★ Smoked Banana
1
| 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A no4 at the first chockstone and a no5 for the last move keeps it pg. Superclassic, don't walk past it.
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Tue 16th Jul 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible | 24m | ||||
still don't like that low face climbing section, lovely upper.
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17 | ★★ Neon Philharmonic | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Mon 19th Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites | ||||||
18 | ★★ Huey | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
What a line. Stiff start.
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Mon 19th Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Cheops | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First moves seemed stiff for a book 18, started at tree - seemed a bit stiff.
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Sat 17th Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Kinkaid | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 23rd Aug 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
Shannon Falls Shannon Falls Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Cardhu Crack | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much more comfy in approach shoes today..
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Sun 19th Aug 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | ||||||
5.10a | ★ The Ugly American | 25m | Average | |||
Weird climb, spicy moves down low with difficult pro leading to persistently awkward moves. Pro mostly odd pockets, would have preferred more stoppers and totems.
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Fri 17th Aug 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief Dihedrals | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Arrowroot | 33m | ||||
Stunning line, longer then it looks at about 33m. Upper half brings the crux as a he finger locks get less secure
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Fri 10th Aug 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Burgers and Fries | ||||||
5.4 | ★ Dusty Eyes | 30m | ||||
Someone has installed some fries on the route....but couldn't find the burger
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Wed 8th Aug 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Corn Flakes | 25m | ||||
Worth it, stays in shade a bit longer then the others
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Thu 12th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
15 | ★ Bad Company | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Such quality rock at lower grade. Tree with Mallion lower off.
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17 | ★★ Micron | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 10th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Doesn't work with a sprained ankle.
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Sun 8th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ||||
Soo good. Can use small gear out left to avoid large gear.
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Sat 7th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Chocolate Watch Band | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 | ★★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 30m | ||||
19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ||||
Mon 2nd Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ||||
20 | ★★★ Short Order | 30m | ||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ||||
Sun 1st Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Cock Crack | 38m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Feels at least a grade easier then jugganaught, lovely hands and fist leasing to the wide, with great rests and features to keep things reasonable. As the crack widens Craig used ball nuts and a no3 c4 before launching up the arete and over the smokestack to the chains. Three stars for sure.
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Wed 27th Jun 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Mega classic. Excellent gear, excellent climbing. Can rap with a 65m rope from the bolts above.
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Tue 26th Jun 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Plume | 25m | ||||
A bit thin and commuting in parts.
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Sat 23rd Jun 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
14 | ★ Orchid Alley | 20m | ||||
Sat 16th Jun 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★ Horse-drawn Zeppelin - with kat, terry | 12m | ||||
Felt a little sketchy in approach shoes. Had a crack at getting the stuck small black cam out. It's moving, just needs a bit more attention to liberate.
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16 | ★ Mainliner - with kat, terry | 20m | ||||
Difficult to protect early wide sections leads to pleasant jamming on the face, all over too soon.
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Thu 14th Jun 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Resurrection Corner | 25m | ||||
Stiff, insecure start leading to beautify cormer with a crack system on each. Kal regretted not bringing more 3/4 Camelot's.
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16 | ★ Forked Tongue | 15m | ||||
Favourite of the day, fun vari d climbing with good gear. Extra star if getting off was easier.
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19 | ★★ Southern Comfort | 15m | ||||
What a line. Gear looked good. What's the go with the lower off ? Two bolt hangers connected to chain with snaplink allow biners ? Works I guess.
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Fri 8th Jun 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
11 | ★★ Pedro - with Ben | 36m | ||||
Ben chose the right hand start to keep it spicy . Just as enjoyabe the second time around, fitting last climb for the trip, sullied only by Ben shunning the bountiful cowbell placements.
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Wed 23rd May 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ Necrophilliac | 25m | ||||
Wed 23rd May 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wed 23rd May 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 26th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ King Rat | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Lovely little climb
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Thu 26th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ||||
Wed 25th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Eurydice - with timbo | 65m, 2 | ||||
Wed 25th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Discord Direct - with timbo | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 22nd Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Devoid | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thin moves down low lead to very reasonable climbing.
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Sat 21st Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Followed Jacob up the chimney for the first time. Gear not totally unreasonable but excellent climbing
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Sat 21st Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Kaiser - Resignation | 99m | ||||
Traverse a bit goey for a 15. Probably accidentally went high and found only limited gear.
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Fri 20th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 19th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Crucifixion | 12m | ||||
Wed 18th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
14 | ★★ D Minor | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 18th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Dirge | 85m | ||||
P1 only
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18 | ★★ Jens roof | 30m, 1 | ||||
Tue 17th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
9 | ★★ Conifer Crack | 80m | ||||
P1 only, rap off digareedoo
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Mon 16th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
11 | ★★ Piccolo | 33m | ||||
Mon 16th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon - with adam | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 15th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Turquoise | 25m | ||||
Ended up on mix green shit and turquoise
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Fri 13th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ King Rat | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Lumpy on jugs and good jams. Great 3d moves. Gear looked good.
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Fri 13th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur - with timbo | 25m | ||||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Asteroid - with timbo | 25m | ||||
Thu 12th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Rosy Shy | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 30th Mar 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Lead P1,3, mark P2, 4-5 with arete p5
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