Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 5th Jan 2024 - Tukino | ||||||
Tascmaster Wall | ||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Flight of the Condors — 3 attempts | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very crimpy, wanders around the wall which is weird as it doesn't need to. Last clip is best to extend a little to make clipping easier. A good outing and again boils down to 2 x V3 boulder problems with a jug rest in the middle.
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23 Hard | ★★★ Stinging Riccardo — 2 attempts | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing, took a decent amount of cleaning but now it's primed for summer!!! What a great line, overhanging crimp boulder leads to a no hands rest than technical face climbing on small crimps leads to a fun finish. If you are staying at Tukino nip over, it's only a 10 min walk. Probably on the hard side for 23 but maybe just sneaks under the radar. once you know the sequences its maybe 2 x V3 boulders with a rest in the middle 🤔
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Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Tukino | ||||||
Wall of Sound | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★★★ Ritual De La Habitual — 2 attempts | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant route but right from the start move this wasn't a 23 for me 😂 maybe I didn't read it very well 🤔 Extend the 6th and 7th or risk the ride of your life. Hard, Wild, Spicy and Brilliant, looking forward to coming back for the other 2 lines that start at the same spot.
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22 Hard | ★★ Harakiri — 2 attempts | 17m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent climbing, harder than most 22s but this is not a soft crag 😂
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Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Swamp Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Brave Stranger - with Raenee Wilson | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This ones a good outing if you like techy problems. Mostly easy until the bulge at the top where the holds run out, mostly cleaned though didnt put too much effort in to cleaning so could do with a bit more. a mix of boulder problems and no hands rests... I think 25 is a good estimation of difficulty though I'm sure you could justify it down to 24 when you know the moves 😂 One thing I will say is.... Bring your head game, I clipped the 4th bolt down by my ankle, took the crux fall and its not too bad if you have a soft belayer 😂 Spicy fun 🌶️
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Swamp Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ INOTIO | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
another lap... this time went direct through the hedge hog
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23 | ★★ INOTIO | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
great line... still
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Gum's Gully | ||||||
25 | ★★ Pupation — 5 attempts | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
I will never forget the time I got pupated
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Mon 6th Nov 2023 - Kinloch | ||||||
Whangamata Bay (K2) | ||||||
23 Easy | ★ Tricks of the Dad — 2 attempts | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
bouldery, good sequence... could do with being longer 😂
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
24 Hard | ★★ McFat Burnt Christmas — 3 attempts | 20m, 8 | ||||
what the heck is this thing 😂 Seemed hard but I started the day in bad shape so.... Probably on point. overhanging pocket pulling was actually fun if you are sadistic and enjoy sharp, minging pockets 🤷♂️
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★★ Hardon | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
extra lap for fun... still hard for 23 😂
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Upside Down | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
extra lap for fun
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Da Cave | ||||||
22 | ★ In the Club | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A fun "retro-flash" of this one to see if I could still remember the beta, still a nice climb even if the bolts are weird af 😂
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★★ Hardon | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Probably a little hard for 23 😂 ... At least now its fully clean, so get in while its still lichen free as its a pretty cool boulder problem 🤙
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ The Wrath of God | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
An interesting "retro flash", felt good... still a really nice line
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Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Mangorewa | ||||||
The Wall of Cheese | ||||||
24 ~25 | ★★ Sticky Fingers - with Raenee Wilson | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
🤔 This one seems to have missing holds, or maybe someone just spilt the glue 😂 not outrageously hard as some of the comments here suggest just a bit hard for 24. Should have onsighted as there is nothing cryptic about this one, just pull on sharp crimps to the top. PM me for excuses on why I didn't 😂 2nd Go
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24 Easy | ★★★ Chez Royale - with Raenee Wilson | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Felt like a lot of effort on the onsight, 2nd go a lot easier knowing where the holds were, soft for the grade but an Awesome line, would recommend 🤙
|
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Hold On To Your Face Wall | ||||||
25 Hard | ★★★ Lanky | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Can rest on almost every hold until the final 4-5 moves, conditions today better than yesterday ended up going down on the warm up with some nice friction. Not sure why this dent see more traffic, might be the ironic name 🤔
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Thu 27th Apr 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
29 Hard | ★★ Vulture culture — 2 attempts | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really good climb... I even started to enjoy the bottom crux. The top just keeps giving it to you with no rest 😂 Great power endurance line found this one harder than Coma tbh
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
29 ~29 | ★★ Them Crooked Vultures — 2 attempts | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard boulder followed by an epic thug fest to the end, I found the bottom boulder to be pretty intense, similar difficulty to coma imo, 2 more line from this start before I get to move on 😂
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
30 | ★★★ Snake Oil — 2 attempts | 14m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Started this battle long ago... Didnt give it much thought this year until last weekend when I hopped back on and realised it was ready to go... first go today froze... second go ✅ Im not quite sure how the crux stuck as I improvised new beta 😂 the rest was the battle I deserved and I finally got my draws back... Thanks for reading... the video will be up some day soon... The End.
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Sat 4th Mar 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
27 | ★ Infinite Monkey Theorem — 4 attempts | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Enjoyed this line more than the spider and more than I thought I would. a great no hands knee bar in the middle then powerful climbing with a cool finish. overall I thin it took 4 go's over 2 days... Would have been second go if I could learn how to put knee pads on properly 😂
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Sat 11th Feb 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
29 ~29 | ★★★ The Coriolis Effect — 2 attempts | 10m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
On a wet hung over day I decided to do the real version with the coma crux... Far better than the weak sauce knee bars, I feel like a real boy now 😂
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
30 ~30 | ★★★ Civil Unrest — 2 attempts | 12m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
An awesome line!!! Harder than coma with the start adding to the power endurance... I got both pumped and powered out and nearly dropped it a few times
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Mon 9th Jan 2023 - Maratoto | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
22 | ★ Taste The Rainbow - with Dan Head | 20m, 7 | ||||
Great climbing for the grade, lots of mantels and technical climbing with the hardest move being just before the anchors... Might feel slightly run out but the holds are all good for clipping
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26/27 | ★★ The Great Skittles Tragedy of 2023 — 2 attempts - with Dan Head | 38m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
couldn't decide on a difficulty so 26 will do till it gets a 2nd ascent (just like the rest 😂) first half is great climbing with plenty of rest, get ready for a crux through the steep part on tiny crimps and a dead point or lock off to the big jug, the rest is pretty cruisey with a little technical stuff but nothing harder than 23/24ish... overall a great and looooooong line!!! 🤙
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Tue 3rd Jan 2023 - White Falls | ||||||
29 Hard | ★★★ First Breath after a Coma — 2 attempts | 12m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
great line except that first hold 😂
|
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Thu 29th Dec 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
22 | ★★ Atreyu | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
The Lost Sector | ||||||
20 19 - 21 | ★ Axis | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Some good rock quality some not so good, mostly this is just access to the other lines.
|
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19 | ★★★ The Unknown | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Better quality rock than its right hand counterpart, great moves and great views
|
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Sat 22nd Oct 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
26 | ★★ Climb This You Peach - with Raenee Wilson | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyed this more than the last few gos, lots of weird climbing and the top crux is awesome... bottom crux is a bit harder imo 🤔 not sure what the grade is, I really had to want this one today. needs a second ascent, some anchors and a quick scrub down after my scrub downs... possibly just traffic.
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ Climb this you Bastard - with Ryan Yang | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This one prob needs an upgrade, I have seen a few people who can easily climb 22 spat off by it and having repeated it now a few years later its definitely up there... Or... I need new beta 😂 epic line once you are past the bottom weak rock. Take your head game!!!!
|
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Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
24 24/25 | ★★ The Odyssey | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still great climbing!!! laps for filming and fun
|
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27 26/27 | ★★ Save The Human Babies | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I wanted this one to start differently but it didnt seem logical to bolt the boulder. up the ramp, grade 17 climbing to the roof... Boulder problem on a rope, big dynamic span for this move and nearly exploded my forearm pulling on a shallow pocket. some crimpy overhanging climbing then its over and another 17/18 to the anchors. Grade... don't ask me... felt like the hardest individual move of the climbs I have done in the bottom tier so far, but thats all it was really... followed by some cool crimpy moves.
|
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Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Crimps | 28m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I have no idea how to grade this line... crimps through the overhang range from 10-15mm and require some good footwork to be able to hold, as you get further through the crux the crimps get a bit more in-cut. After the crux its not over, you get decent holds through a couple of bolts and then a long lock off to another small hold then more jugs after that to the top. The route stays overhanging and I couldn't find a no hands rest till the end!!!! Great line if you like small crimps 😂
|
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Sat 10th Sep 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
26 | ★★ Pneumothorax | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a few gos to work out the crux and then a few more attempts to get it, should come out about 26 but could possibly be harder to easier 🤷♂️ holding the tension on small crimps through the bulge was hard but then its not over there. The top section is awesome on slopey holds and a final bulge is blind but the holds are good when you find them. Id give this one 1-2 stars and well worth doing.
|
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24 24/25 | ★★ The Odyssey | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This line has everything you could hope for, excellent moves at the start laying back jugs (if the corner is wet just transfer onto the boulder) extend any draws that take the rope into the overhangs or unclip after the next draw is in and I found no rope drag, without extensions the rope drag is noticeable at the top. the roof is the crux with one huge move(jugs to jugs), hard to grade prob a grade 22 with hard crux. I'd give this one at least 2 stars!!!
|
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Thu 8th Sep 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
No Fly Zone | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Falkor | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Best line at the crag so far!!! steep and thuggy!!!
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Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Kinloch | ||||||
Whangamata Bay (K2) | ||||||
21 | ★★ Dealers Choice | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wish it was 20m longer... nice juggy overhanging climbing, probably a good warm up for some of the harder stuff
|
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25 | ★★★ Mo’ Mojo - with Marnus | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
JP you have done it again!!! This line is so much more betterer than the other start, got some tricky moves in the bottom section too. Cleaned the route from top to bottom so anyone wanting to jump on you'll have a lichen free line for the next 2 weeks!!!
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Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Whanganui Bay | ||||||
The Plateau | ||||||
21 | ★★ Shneiderburner - with Marnus | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Blew the onsight on the moss... should have taken marnus up on the cleaning he offered for the top 😂 cleaned top to bottom then sent next go, brilliant moves.
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Whanganui Bay | ||||||
Whekenui | ||||||
24 | ★★ Jim Takes A Tumble | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another banger... jumped on this thinking it was a 19... it soon became apparent it was a tad hard... 60 mins of cleaning the moss of later and this one turned out to be a techy master piece!!! #secondgo
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Whanganui Bay | ||||||
The Plateau | ||||||
23 24 | ★★ Childhood's End | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
An incredible line and felt just as difficult as Kefunka. ... Either way its an incredible route with a funky top out, well bolted and actually has a decent anchor 😃 #secondgo
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24 | ★★★ Kafunkafunkafunkapteschew! | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
An outrageously awesome line with an equally outrageous run out to the anchor 😂 #secondgo
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Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
24 | ★ Rumble in the Jungle | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Not a bad route, not a great one. weird bolt placements but some of the moves are cool.
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Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
24 | ★ The Big Bad Mouse | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Thanks Dan for letting me jump on this one, one for people who like wedging themselves into things.
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Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Jungle Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ The Crow King | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First attempt got confused at the top and tried to go direct on blind holds 🤦♂️ second go much easier knowing where the good holds were. A great route with a bit of everything.
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25 | ★★★ Bagheera | 7m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd go, dropped the dyno with a solid hand on it 😂 the key to the jump is really to stick it with both hands... just leap!!!
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Fri 1st Jul 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
27 | ★★ The Creature Within (The Creature Within (project)) - with Marco Lefebvre | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
actually an awesome techy little boulder on a rope, thanks for the catches today Marco 🤙
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Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
27 | ★★★ El Bon Wombat | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Probably the best route at Maratoto. Climb the steepness on small to medium size holds and some funky moves. has a bit of everything couldn't decide on a grade between 26/27 so would be great to get some more perspectives, this one definitely suited me, happy to have another project done and closer to wrapping up the top tier.
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19 19/20 | ★ Following The Sun | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 15th May 2022 - Ti Point | ||||||
Whiskey Delta Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Appendix | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Peritonitis | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 15th May 2022 - Ti Point | ||||||
Sam Bullock Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Slapping Down | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
20 | ★★ Richard | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 14th May 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
22 | ★★ Equanimity | 23m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really enjoy repeating this one. A great warm up
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26 | ★★ Triple Horn | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyed this one, great climbing up to the roof then a heel hooking powerful problem, once you hit the jug easier few moves to the top.
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Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Wye Creek | ||||||
South Side Main Wall | ||||||
23 24 | ★★ Red Curry Pot Climb - with Ryan Yang | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
tried this one a life time ago, felt good today but average climbing compared to the rest and too short
|
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Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Wye Creek | ||||||
North Side Project Wall | ||||||
27 | ★ Mac Attack | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Took 5 gos in all, should have been 2 or 3. Butchered the last move being powered out 😂
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25 | ★★★ Xenalasia | 27m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
3rd go should have been 2nd. Fingers freezing up and bicep cramps are a good excuse right? Other than the cold Connies this line is one of the best 25s Ive done in NZ had to battle for it at the end of the long day!!! Mint line, would recommend to techy face climbers!!!
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Fri 22nd Apr 2022 - Wye Creek | ||||||
North Side Project Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Eat Yourself Fitter | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Cant believe I dropped the last move on the onsight 😂 absolute punter missed the good undercling and went to a bad one 🤦♂️ ah well... second go #soft
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Sun 13th Mar 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Upper Bluff | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Immaculate Conception (Imaculate Conception) | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
One of the good ones!!! 5th tie in this weekend, didn't expect it but pulled through with the breeze on them slopers. Would recommend.
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Sun 6th Mar 2022 - Whakapapa Gorge | ||||||
23 | ★★ Sculpin - with Alex Popinga | 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A very funky outing, weird climbing but really good. be careful of the 3rd bolt, using standard length quick draw today the rope is in position to be cut between draw and sharp edge, extend this draw or don't fall 😂
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25 | ★★★ Arturism | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jumped on this because the draws were on and it was the end of the weekend, got the retro flash and did it the fridge hugging way that everyone talks about. Just proving to myself that inverted knee bar beta for this one is still king... fridge slaps are still fun though.
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Sat 5th Mar 2022 - White Falls | ||||||
28 29 | ★★★ The Coriolis Effect | 10m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Second day working on this one, Got it 4th try today with a decent amount of animal noises
|
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Wed 23rd Feb 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Hold On To Your Face Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Hold On To Your Face | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat for filming and fun... Was great to climb it with a bit more wind and no pressure, thanks for the catches Marnus
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26 | ★★★ Hold On To Your Face | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great line, took me more go's than it should have. The key is not climbing it in the sun 😂 Evening session was the go!!!
|
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26 | ★★ Vroom Vroom Mentality | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat for pleasure... Still a great line, felt so much easier than 3 years ago too 😂
|
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Sat 5th Feb 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Swamp Wall | ||||||
24 | ★ Honeytrap | 13m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a lot of cleaning but it's in mint condition now and ready for more ascents
|
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22 | ★★ Hung, Dogged, and Quartered - with Alex Popinga | 10m, 4 | ||||
Some decent scrubbing required on the first go, second it go felt easy.
|
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Sat 5th Feb 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Owairaka Buttress | ||||||
19 18 | ★★ Winterlude (Unknown #4) - with Alex Popinga | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Just the best warm up and still the most awesome 19 Ive done in a long time!!!
|
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Mon 31st Jan 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Frighteners Rock | ||||||
24 | ★★ Mirror Mirror (New Climb) | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to grovel through the overhang and broke/cleaned a few holds to get this one. primo climbing to the top
|
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Sat 29th Jan 2022 - Maratoto | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
23 | ★★ The Kraken | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Extra lap to check the grade
|
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21 20/21 | ★★ Memento Mori | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Extra lap to check the grade
|
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23 | ★★ Cronos | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing to the slab then heading right is the easiest version, heading left will be just as cool once its cleaned
|
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Sun 23rd Jan 2022 - Kinloch | ||||||
Whangamata Bay (K2) | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Priapism. | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
warm up... sick line!!!
|
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25 24/25 | ★★★ Arm-aggedon - with Marnus | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent sustained climbing probably 25 might be easier due to no "hard" moves or harder if you don't have any endurance 🤔 Would be happy to get some different perspectives on the grade, great route!!!
|
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Sat 22nd Jan 2022 - Kinloch | ||||||
Whangamata Bay (K2) | ||||||
22 | ★★★ White Rose Whinging | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
dont do it in full sun is all I can say 😂 still grunted through it though
|
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26 | ★★★ Climb Against Humanity | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Actually a really good line, solid rock and power endurance after the awkward start of chapel.
|
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Upper Bluff | ||||||
23 | ★★ Squeedily Spooch | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jumped down from the first boulder problem a couple of times trying to work it out then on-sighted the rest, really nice climbing but maybe hard for the grade due to that first little bit, the rest is standard 23.
|
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
25 | ★★ The Incredible Hulk | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
1 move away from the flash 🤦♂️ 2nd go. Great climbing on pockets then crimpy crux
|
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21 | ★★★ Aliens | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tried this 5 years ago, was nice to finally get the tick, some may say it was a 5 year project 😂 Great warm up this trip and an awesome climb.
|
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Thu 6th Jan 2022 - White Falls | ||||||
26 | ★ Krakatoa | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Got better with the meat wrap gone, harder bottom section.
|
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Thu 18th Nov 2021 - Ti Point | ||||||
Whiskey Delta Area | ||||||
25 | ★★ The Troll | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat for filming
|
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25 | ★★ The Troll | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great line
|
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Thu 4th Nov 2021 - Ti Point | ||||||
The Arch | ||||||
24 | ★★ Two Blue Birds | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
#2nd go. Went direct with a right hand low side pull then a long lock off left hand on the crimp. seems pretty direct without traversing right. not sure what anyone else is doing to make this 25/26 🤷♂️ Grade aside this is a quality route... bolting is a bit odd with a committing move to put that 4th draw in ground up but when "pink" pointing wasn't an issue.
|
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Thu 4th Nov 2021 - Ti Point | ||||||
The Preamble | ||||||
24 | ★★ Skin Thicker than Leather | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
repeat today for warm ups... still feels hard end 24... especially if you do the dyno at the top 😂
|
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Sun 4th Jul 2021 - Maratoto | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
25 24/25 | ★★ Reckless Abandon | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Easy start, 19/20ish to the ledge then balancey on the face through to 2 boulder problems, one technical one powerful got it on the 4th go. would like some more input on the grade but the route is excellent!!!
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Tue 29th Jun 2021 - Maratoto | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
24 | ★★ The Land Before Crime | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant route, keeps you guessing till the end.
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Sat 22nd May 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
25 | ★ Summer Time | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Anticlimactic to say the least, I wanted this thing to be as hard as people say... beta up the centre felt nails but doable, changed beta and cruised it... could be 24 but still fairly powerful, techy and one small sharp pocket 🤷♂️
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Sun 16th May 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ The King Of Thieves - with Alex Popinga | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
19 | Hairdresser On Fire - with Alex Popinga | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 16th May 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Upper Tier | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Dionysus - with Alex Popinga | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go... good route, I was also lacking skin and tired so happy to get it.
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Sat 15th May 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★★ Wicked - with Alex Popinga | 19m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
bummed I went for the wrong hold on this one, end of the day so dropped the onsight. got it next go, top move was a little spicy too.
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19 | ★★ Speedy Gonzales - with Alex Popinga | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
retro flash of this one, felt harder than any of the 20-21s 😂
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Sat 8th May 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
26 | ★ Torquemada | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
hmm... 3rd go today, 4th overall... sharp with many betas... im not sure this is 26 though 🤔 reminded me of totalling dads car or a roof too far... one move wonder then very nice climbing to the top.
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Sat 1st May 2021 - Kinloch | ||||||
Whangamata Bay (K2) | ||||||
28 27/28 | ★★ Monologue | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great line.
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Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Louder | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty happy this ones done... only 4 days of effort though so not toooooo bad... Not that hard when its dialled
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Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
27 26 | ★★ Rubble | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great outing, used to feel hard, today felt easy 🤷♂️ excellent moves
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Mon 29th Mar 2021 - White Falls | ||||||
26 | ★ The Spider | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
sharp and awkward... some good moves in it after the crux.
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