Showing all 15 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The 80 Minute Hour - with Sonya | 30m, 4 | ||||
This is going to be controversial, but this route is just not very good. It's super difficult to protect, has mega reachy carrots, and loads of ledge-fall potential. It also just doesn't have very fun movement. I honestly can't understand why it gets as many stars as it does. If you want a good 18, just go
climb Interstate.
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Wed 15th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Megalong Valley Crags The Phoenix | ||||||
20 | ★★★ The Phoenix - with Hugh Sutton | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I don't know if it was just the way I was feeling or the extremely spoogey conditions, but this thing felt absolutely desperate today. The entire crack and wall was damp, muddy, and coated in dirt, despite that I thought it barely rained the last few days. I rapped down this thinking, this is gonna be amazing and was astounded at how slippery and insecure the entire climb felt. I know it's grade 20, but it literally felt every bit of grade 23 at least in today's conditions. It would be interesting to revisit this when it is totally dry, but it felt like a joke at grade 20 today. I got the onsight in the end, but not really sure how.
As far as gear goes, I didn't have a 5, but that would have been nice. Instead, I had 2 4's,a 3, doubles of 2-.75, 3 .5s, 4 .4s, 3 .3s, and a red and green C3. I also had a random offset alien that may have been close to a .2. I probably could have left the nuts at home but did manage to place 2 overall. I had 19 draws which seemed crazy, but I used them all in the end. This thing was epic and would be worth a revisit when dry to see if I was smoking crack today or not.
All in all, a great arvo!
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Wed 11th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Zipper - with Bridie Campbell | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Despite bailing off of Auntie Jack onto this, it was actually a pretty great route. You need minimal gear for it in reality. The crux is figuring out what to use as an anchor to bring your second up.
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Mon 12th Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Jezebel | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This route was wild. I def could have brought a hell of a lot more gear (2s and 3s for the first pitch). We only did about half of pitch 2, but it was nails and could use a bit of gardening. I will def come back and try the second pitch again.
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Tue 22nd Jun 2021 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★★★ The Knuckle - with Bridie Campbell | 52m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Only the first pitch.
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Mon 14th Jun 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - with Hugh Sutton | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This route was as other-worldly as everyone said. I found a #6 worth bringing for the second pitch, but you should still expect a huge runnout even with it.
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Fri 4th Jun 2021 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★★★ The Knuckle - with Bridie Campbell | 52m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Only had time for the first pitch, but it was great! I can't wait to come back and do the whole thing.
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18 | ★★ Decline and Fall - with Bridie Campbell | 99m | ★★★ Classic | |||
18 | ★★ Decline and Fall - with Bridie Campbell | 99m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 31st May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Vincent HRD - with Flint | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This line was awesome! It was amazing to do as the sun was setting. There was a def a bit of faffing with gear choices, but I still got the onsight in the end!
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Tue 10th Mar 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Hornes Point | ||||||
14 | ★ Yellow Crack - with Bob Miller | 25m | Don't Bother | |||
This route no longer has an anchor at the top, so be prepared use gear to make one at the top a fair way back from the edge. You can also sling the tree a few meters behind the crack up there to back it up if you like. It looks like previous bolts were removed from this for the anchor, but I'm not sure when this happened. In general, this route is pretty chossy and way shittier than the several routes lower down at Piddo.
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Mon 9th Sep 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Tex Arcana Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Tex Arcana - with Charles Keene | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Takes a good 3 or 4 above the first carrot. The moves below the first carrot are hard but you can stick clip a wire onto the carrot if you want to be protected while doing them. Quite fun!
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Mon 9th Sep 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Fargoid Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gibberish - with Charles Keene | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
So pumpy!!! Bring plenty of 1’s and .75’s.
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Tue 27th Aug 2019 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
- with
hugh sutherland
1
| 78m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Only pitch 1.
Holy shit this route is nails for 18! In true Wolgan fashion I reckon' it would be a 20 in the Bluies (similar to Solomon perhaps). This commentary is only for the first pitch since that's all we did, but yeah, quite hard. I probably could have used 3 .5's as well...
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with hugh sutherland | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I definitely sandbagged the crap out of myself by not having even close to enough 2's and 3's. I never took, but essentially climbed and down-climbed several cruxes in order to retrieve 2's and 3's so I could walk them. I think I had 4 pieces in this whole route besides a couple in the bottom horizontals. Note to self: Take 3's of 2's and 3's next time.
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Showing all 15 ascents.