Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
7a | ★★ Las uñas de Dori - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin | 13m, 8 | ||||
No way. Even on top rope later one no clue how to climb this.
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6b+ | ★★★ Scoop left - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin | 18m, 9 | ||||
Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
6a ~5a | ★★ Sapporo - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mega super soft
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6a/a+ | ★★ Al Capone - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice & technical, not that obvious.
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6c+/7a | ★★★ La marmita - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Much better second try on top rope. 2 hangers, again in the lower crux and then just too pumped.
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6c+/7a | ★★★ La marmita - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow, what a great line, long, varied and a lot of air under the ass. After messing up the lower crux I was too impressed and basically clipsticked my way up...
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Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
7a | ★ Something — 2 attempts - with Arvin, Jarno | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Quick after shopping visit of the old project: A sleepy teen belayer left me no other choice than to pull through the trick is really to find the right beta through the upper void
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Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers - with LFF, Jarno | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - with LFF, Jarno | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Shit, should have led it. Was still too impressed from this shitty 6a slab before. This one is much better.
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6a | ★★ Pena negra - with LFF, Jarno | 20m, 12 | ||||
Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6b/b+ | ★★ Princesa Mara - with Muster, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | |||||
6b | ★★ ORC - with Muster, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Muster, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Man, I got fat, weak, whatever
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Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Radio 3 | ||||||
NN2 - with Muster, Jarno, Giggler | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
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NN1 - with Muster, Jarno, Giggler | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
5 | ★★ Moretti - with Muster, Jarno, Giggler | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a | ★★ Ladri di Arange - with Muster, Jarno, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ||||
Nice and juggy. Very soft, somehow missed the 6a part.
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5c | ★★ Lucas - with Muster, Jarno, Giggler | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not that easy versus the end.
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6a | ★★ Tierra doy una / Sutra - with Muster, Jarno, Giggler | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice! Both pitches in one go. The second 6a pitch felt easier than the 5c before...
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Fri 24th Feb 2023 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
7a | ★ Something - with LFF | 12m | ★ Good | |||
And failing seriously. Too tired already, and too painful crimping. A reason to come back!
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7a | ★ Something - with LFF | 12m | ||||
Short, hard & tricky. Working out a doable sequence.
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Wed 22nd Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5c |
Jarribaras P1
- with
LFF
1
5c
| 40m | ||||
Kid-falls-into-his-own-poo-while-making-poo emergency retreat
|
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6b |
★★ Relaja la Raja P1
- with
LFF
1
6b
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
An excellent climb! Quite scary over the bulge and then keep your shit together through the upper tufa. The clip after the first bulge is very hard to reach, a panic sling comes in handy.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben
|
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6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Altes Projekt, endlich darf ich mal Aufwärmen & kalibrieren.
|
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Tue 21st Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Las Margaritas - with LFF, Giggler | 66m | ||||
Die lieben Kollegen wollten mal eine "leichte" MSL machen, und wer darf dann Vorsteigen weil sich keiner traut? Zwei schwere Stellen, die am Ende ziemlich stillos mit viel Gebastel, Gelächter und dummen Sprüchen gelöst werden mussten
|
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Mon 20th Feb 2023 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Unknown | ||||||
6c | Unknown - with LFF | |||||
Directly right of the prior route. Nice & not too hard climbing until the last bolt, then very hard to the (slightly rusty) anchor. Grade unclear.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Unknown 6a+ - with LFF | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Above the static rope, looked too nice to not try it. Very cool upper half - keep your body positions sorted. 6a+ as grade is a guess.
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - with LFF, Giggler | 24m | ||||
Much easier if you know what to do
|
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5b | ★ Rompesuelos - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 9 | ||||
Pretty hard very direct version to avoid all the wet tufas.
|
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6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - with LFF, Giggler | 24m | ||||
Short cruxy section before the overhang
|
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6a | ★★ Pena negra - with LFF, Giggler | 20m, 12 | ||||
5c | ★★ DJ's Club - with LFF, Giggler | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Checking out the moves
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7a | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Definitely an error to try again toprope, once again getting too late and dark and windy and rainy for a real try. Far from at the limit, most likely easier than 7a. Note to self: Get on your projects at the beginning of the day
|
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6b | ★★ Day of the Reflection - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and long line with several distinct sections, the crux is to get over the slightly overhanging crimpy wall at the top with a few hard pulls. 2nd go, unluckily too stupid for onsighting this...
|
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6a+ | ★★ La Princesa del Pueblo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5b 5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers (Via des vombers) - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 5th Nov 2021 - Torre d'en Bèu | ||||||
5c | ★★ Placa - with Giggler | 22m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Warm-up before unluckily rain came in, quite easy for a 5+. Checking out this crag which is not described in any guide - very nice, but seems to require significant editing...
|
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Wed 3rd Nov 2021 - Caimari | ||||||
Hairpin Wall | ||||||
5 | ★ Right - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 22m | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ Pocket - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Until after the crux, but lockdown made me have sissy fingers and sissy feet, just too painful to go on. Otherwise a really nice long and homogeneous climb, stays interesting even in the less steep sections.
|
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5 | ★ Curving Groove - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 21m | Average | |||
Tue 2nd Nov 2021 - Sa Font | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Quatre dents i un nas - with Sandra †, Giggler | ★ Good | ||||
Felt pretty easy. But definitely too hot here - kids went on strike. Switching to the beach...
|
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5c | ★★ Quatre dents - with Sandra †, Giggler | Average | ||||
Almost tropical conditions, 25deg, 100% humidity and no shadow, very hard to get motivated . Wow, 3 tries for grade 5 route, short tricky sequence to leave the overhanging part, big jugs otherwise.
|
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Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
To pa ti | ||||||
6b | ★★ The Lion Slayer - with Jarno, Giggler, Yue | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice varied route, the crux ist to leave the big overhanging holes low down. Thermal overload even in toprope after the sun came around, sooo hot and damp today.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Skidmark - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | ★ Good | ||||
Some pretty comitting moves before the anchor if you follow directly the bolts. Might be challenging for the short, but can be escaped to the right.
|
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6a | ★ Itchy feet - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | ★ Good | ||||
Route #2 of the year short & crimpy, not a present especially in the first half. The muddy holds before the anchor added some spice, too.
|
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Fri 28th Feb 2020 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b | ★ Enanismo emocional - with LFF | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Unplanned support ascent to LFF. One hard pull incl. clip, then it's over.
|
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7a | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One hanger, missed a foothold in the beginning dusk. Should be no problem after optimising a bit the middle section - maybe next time. Incredibly high density of bolts, take all quickdraws you have!
|
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6b+ |
★★ Las bolas del chino
- with
Sandra †, Jarno
1
6b+
20m
| 20m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky passage in the middle, it's not really over when you grab the balls. With some beta from below, but since this was what I decided for anyway, I still consider this as onsight. Probably more like 6b?
|
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6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - with Sandra † | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
If you have a slow team, do your project as warm-up! Very smooth go, not even pumped thanks to a new much better beta for the finish
|
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Thu 27th Feb 2020 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained fingery technical wall climbing & a very hard sequence at the very top, when you already spend all your juice. Still not sure how to exactly clip the chain.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Corrich - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice introduction to tufa climbing. Competition style, gets gradually harder vs. the top. The last metres are really not a present, had to fight a bit!
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Wed 26th Feb 2020 - Tazmania | ||||||
6c | ★★ Madame Déficit - with Sandra †, LFF | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Excellent short & super hard slab, very technical. Should be doable, but definetly would require some runs to find the best sequence. The team requests a trip to the next café instead...
|
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6a+ | ★★ Lucas - with Sandra †, LFF | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Excellent line with a cool layback / crack sequence in the upper part (possibly the only non-slab climb here). Would be classic if a bit longer.
|
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5+ | ★★ Kulunguele - with Sandra †, LFF | ★ Good | ||||
Freaking stormy today, not easy to find a climbable place. Shocked the team by just passing the super crimpy crux with pure reach.
|
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Tue 25th Feb 2020 - Cala Bota | ||||||
5c | ★ El vals del obero - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
No motivation. Let's say: rest day!
|
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5c | ★★ Elmo Love - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Too hot to climb seriously
|
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Mon 24th Feb 2020 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
5c | ★★ Dali - with LFF, Sandra † | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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6c+ | ★★★ Sostre den burotet - with LFF, Sandra † | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Stopped on the way home to have a quick sunset try. Great fun, but needs some more work to figure out a more efficient selection of jugs. Epic fight together with LFF to get down the quickdraws.
|
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Mon 24th Feb 2020 - Es Torrent | ||||||
6c | ★★ Happy Starting - with LFF, Sandra †, Jarno | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice athletic route, but the upper bolts are in pretty bad condition. Got super scared because I really didn't wanted to fall; finally reached an anchor which was too rusty for abseiling - continued to the other (good) one higher to the left...
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6a+ | ★★★ Andritxoleta - with LFF, Sandra †, Jarno | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super nice tufa fun
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Sun 23rd Feb 2020 - La Vall Verda | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lucas forever - with LFF | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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6b+ | ★ Relaja el hojete - with LFF | 25m, 9 | ||||
Top rope service for LFF Still too wrecked from the fight before.
|
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7a | ★ La puerta - with Sandra † | 15m | ||||
Same procedure as every year, James. Felt strong, climbed well and failed seriously. Basically it goes, but with my sequence I just can't clip the 4th bolt - not because I'm out of the line, but because of barndoor troubles. Maybe there are some possibilities more to the right, but I give up now, finally removed this one from the list of projects.
|
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5+ 5c | ★★ Gorrinos.com - with Sandra † | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Salto | ||||||
6a | ★★ Chicharra loca - with LFF | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good bye route in the evening sun.
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4c | ★ Fluffy - with LFF | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Colmena | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Ella ya no vive aqui - with LFF | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Too hot, no motivation, time for some chilling around.
|
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Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Corral | ||||||
4 | ★★ Aprendizaje por tercios - with LFF | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice & hard for the grade.
|
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Fri 8th Mar 2019 - Cala Bota | ||||||
3c | ★★ Schnurzelpurzel - with Sandra † | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The planned hands-free Jonny Dawes memorial ascent didn't work out, but at least the one-hand memorial ascent for 'Ms. broken-hand' Sandra †...
|
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7a | ★★ Todo bene - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Yeah Some warmup in the route and on the 2nd or 3rd serious attempt it went! 25 years from 6a to 7a - if I continue with this pace I'll reach 9a at the age of 99 Probably a bit soft for 7a, but who cares, nice climbing!
|
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6b | ★★ Kalki - with Giggler | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Committing move at the end, be tall or fly.
|
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6a | ★★ Touch the sky - with LFF | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Huii,, technically 6a only at the beginning, but mentally 6a after. Touching the sky over the sea!
|
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5c | ★★ Edelweiß (Right dihedral) - with Giggler | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 7th Mar 2019 - Cala Bota | ||||||
7a | ★★ Todo bene - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ||||
7a | ★★ Todo bene - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ||||
Almost, almost, just one hanger due to a not entirely nailed beta. And then it was getting dark, once again
|
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6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Missed a bolt, attack was the best form of defense
|
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6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just to try the correct sequence -easier like that.
|
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5c | ★★ Maria - with Norima | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice laybacking, totally different style and rock than the routes before.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Wonder Woman - with LFF | 10m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sport / boulder cocktail mix through the roof. Powerful, if you do it so stupidly as I did it
|
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5b+ | ★★★ Banita - with LFF | 10m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Super fun climb with rock features all around yourself. Why can't it be 3 times longer?
|
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Wed 6th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Giggler | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Somehow fought down the crux. Getting dark, no time for redpointing, made this one anyway already some years ago.
|
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6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Giggler | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finger crack jamming with a bad finger - not a good idea!
|
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6b | ★★ ORC - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | ★★ ORC - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This time a very smooth go. Just for the start boulder a 6b is deserved imho, and the top arete is not obvious neither.
|
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6b | ★★ ORC - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
So painful!
|
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5b 5a | ★ Fup - with Giggler | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 5th Mar 2019 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5c | ★★ Pa Torrat - with Jarno, Giggler | 23m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
No permission of the team to lead this beauty
|
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6c | ★★ Via morito - with LFF | 22m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 hangs, the first in the lower slab of course
|
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6c | ★★ Via morito - with LFF | 22m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Totally messed up the upper crux.
|
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6c | ★★ Via morito - with LFF | 22m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yes! Zitat Arvin: "Am schönsten ist der Sieg wenn man von der Niederlage gekostet hat" P.S.: Clip the last bolt so late that you don't need it anymore...
|
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6a | ★ La matate chorrea - with Norima | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice, but an awful and thin runout to the anchor.
|
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Mon 4th Mar 2019 - La Vall Verda | ||||||
5b 5a | ★ Comando pastillero - with LFF | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a | ★ La puerta - with Sandra † | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Forgot everything...
|
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7a | ★ La puerta - with Sandra † | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty close, but unluckily one silly foot error. Stupid 4th bolt!
|
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7a | ★ La puerta - with Sandra † | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Slowly this is getting my nemesis, but just not enough fuel left. And a huge bee's nest next to the anchor - not clear if I should go back on it...
|
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Sun 3rd Mar 2019 - Puig St. Martí | ||||||
6a | ★ Atila - with Sandra † | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5+ | ★★ Alzheimer - with LFF | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
4+ | ★ Pedorretas - with LFF | 20m | ★ Good | |||
In sneakers and without chalk. Not exactly easy like that.
|