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Ascents in Arapiles as various tick types by Douglas Hockly

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 900 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 25th Dec 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Mysteries Wall
24 Free Will - with Geordie Webb Mixed trad 20m, 4 Very Good
A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.

 
Wed 16th Nov 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle
22 Fine Tune - with Wendy Eden Trad 16m Average
Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.

 
Sun 13th Nov 2016 - Arapiles
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall
21 Amazing Lace Direct Start Trad 23m Good
Vaguely remember climbing is not that hard but gear is not that good

 
Fri 11th Nov 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
22 Family Food - with becca saurus Trad 20m Good
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux

 
Wed 6th Jul 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
22 Running Amok - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 15m, 1 Very Good
10 laps training in my Become Adam Demmert programme. Having the plastic surgery next week - so excited! Conditions a bit warm, had to climb shirtless by the end.

 
Thu 9th Jun 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
23 Rain Aneurysm - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 35m, 2 Good
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.

 
Sun 5th Jun 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
19 Silent Senile Running Foxes - with Wendy Eden Trad 35m Good
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.

 
16 Heart Full of Soul - with Wendy Eden, Kylie Jarrett, Kane Hendy Trad 60m Good
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.

 
21 Only Fools Eat Marmite Trad 30m Good
Thu 2nd Jun 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
18 Perpetual Standstill - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark Trad 40m Good
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!

 
13 Sundowner - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark Trad 30m Good
The start's quite good, then the rock quality falls away a bit. Take a few big cams if you want to climb the LH corner, fortunately the RH corner has good normal sized gear and ok climbing.

 
22 Cream Between - with Wendy Eden Trad 30m Good
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.

 
Sat 28th May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
23 Walking Amok Trad 15m Very Good
Mon 23rd May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
21 Meekly Unconcerned Trad 15m Good
Good climbing with some dodgy rock (gave it a good kick on second though) and some moss and dirt at the top. Great onsight lead by Wendy!

 
Sat 21st May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
23 22 Running Amok - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 15m, 1 Very Good
Might be 23. Great climbing on big holds, easier and better protected than Amok!

 
Wed 18th May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
24 23 Walking Simulator Mixed trad 12m, 2 Good
Amazing. Incredible. My whole life as a climber has culminated in this. At least today it did.

 
17 16 Guider not a climber - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Good
This is good! Needs a brush but nice rock and moves.

 
Sun 15th May 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
19 Coeur de Lion - with Wendy Eden Trad 43m Classic
Awesome in the first half, the rest is much easier and some loose rock but wow the first half is amazing. Like a harder version of Toccata, and now has a rap station.

 
Sat 14th May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
22 Under Control - with Ben Weissner Trad 30m Average
Quite fun in bottom half, then very mossy and easier

 
Sun 1st May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
17 Armchair critic - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Average
Quite fun and a good lead onsight by Wend.

 
21 Ice is Nice - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Average
Felt hard even on tr.

 
Sun 10th Apr 2016 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
15 No Space for Boxes Trad 30m Average
Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
20 Stillborn - with Wendy Eden Trad 20m Good
Pretty hard and would be a pretty goey lead. Interesting climbing for the first 10m or so.

 
Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area
17 Lou's Not 19 (Anymore) Trad 4m Don't Bother
20 Greg Will be Pleased - with Wendy Eden Trad 9m Don't Bother
Very short and bouldery at the start with no gear.

 
22 Greg will be Amused - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 10m, 2 Average
22 Lou Direct - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Good
Probably better than the original

 
24 Man on the Land - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Good
This is really quite good. Just toproped it, I think the gear would be quite tough to place on lead. Nice rock.

 
Sun 3rd Apr 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
23 Procrastinationable - with Wendy Eden Trad 26m Good
A good problem in the first half - I find the move to the roof strangely difficult to find a sequence for.

 
Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Shiralee Wall
8 Cold Episode of Influenza - with Wendy Eden Trad 25m Good
Nice!

 
15 I am a Banana Expert - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 25m, 2 Good
Nice steady climbing. Take small cams. Might be 16? We're really not sure at these grades.

 
18 Great Sleeping Weather - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 25m, 3 Good
Good fun, three interesting sections

 
17 Tallness is something Other People Suffer From - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 25m, 2 Average
Typically bold, take microcams and be prepared to run it out. Super bunched on the crux.

 
17 17 R The Crumpet Didn't Front - with Wendy Eden Trad 25m Good
I thought this was quite good. The rock's not perfect and it's quite bold - there is no gear for the crux and you'll hit a ledge, and maybe the ground later. The climbing is interesting though and varied and feels like a bit of an adventure.

 
Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Arapiles
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
17 Ed's Super Sarnie - with Ben Weissner Trad 15m Average
While it feels like every hold will snap off and the gear is behind the holds I had a good wobble up this. I don't think the climbing's that great but it's an exciting adventure. Both Ben and I thought it was tricky for the grade, but we were both having a tired day.

 
Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
17 The Nile - with Kieran Lawton Trad 110m Very Good
Great climbing on the middle pitch.

 
Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Shiralee Wall
20 The Shiralee Direct - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 20m, 1 Very Good
This is really good - slabby start, interesting corner then a steep bulge with a crack.

 
14 Dingbats - with Wendy Eden Trad 50m Crap
This is really not good. Poor rock, poor gear, don't bother.

 
17 Banshee - with Wendy Eden Trad 50m Don't Bother
A small amount of ok rock, didn't seem worth a star

 
Sat 19th Mar 2016 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
19 Grand Design - with Gareth Llewellin Mixed trad 54m, 1 Very Good
Remarkably good - great rock in first section, a bit contrived at the start (but that doesn't bother me), technical and good gear. The only thing I thought was odd was that there isn't good gear before the first bolt, and it's quite high up. Maybe another bolt would be a good idea? Nice 50m pitch.

 
Wed 16th Mar 2016 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
10 The Serpent's Venom - with Wendy Eden Trad 60m Good
Quite good but I like Fall of Man into Bishop better as a grade 11 linkup

 
Sun 13th Mar 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
15 Is It About A Bicycle? - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Good
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.

 
6 Jack-a-Dandy - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Average
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner

 
Thu 3rd Mar 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
20 Eye Spy Trad 30m Good
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.

 
Thu 4th Feb 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Mysteries Wall
17 A Night to Remember - with Kate Dooley Trad 15m Good
Nice but all too short. Great position. Gear is poor in the first 5m or so.

 
Mon 18th Jan 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
18 Puggle Burrow Trad 26m Average
Maybe easier if you're tall?

 
20 Indecisivity Mixed trad 15m, 5 Good
Turned out better than originally thought. Maybe 19?

 
23 Misunderestimated Mixed trad 15m, 1 Very Good
One of those that would be much harder placing the gear. Very tenuous with no actual footholds. Flashed by Lou on TR - impressive!

 
Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
18 19 No Turning Back Trad 20m Good
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.

 
22 Totally Foxed! Trad 20m Good
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.

 
19 Unemploid - with Kate Dooley Trad 15m Don't Bother
Just one move then suss rock and gear.

 
Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
18 19 Frontispiece - with Wendy Eden Trad 30m Don't Bother
There probably is ok climbing under all the vegetation and loose rock, but I won't be rushing back

 
Sun 10th Jan 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
18 Pritchard's Neuralgia Trad 26m Good
At least 18 - more if you plug up the crucial jam with gear! Beware large loose block in the middle.

 
12 Eat Your Greens - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Good
Would be better finishing up and right to Wild Mountain Thyme's chains. A little stiff for 10 Nod!

 
Sun 13th Dec 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
18 Pet Parsley Mixed trad 30m, 1 Good
Nice rock and climbing. Wanders a little and gets progressively easier but well worthwhile

 
Sat 12th Dec 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
13 Blue Toes Trad 15m Good
Thin on gear in upper half.

 
13 15 Greenfingers Trad 15m Good
Thin on gear in upper half.

 
18 Brown Thumb - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 15m, 2 Good
Take care with the start which is fairly hard and tricky to find the gear. A mid size hex or #12 Rock would go well, but a Yellow Camalot and #3 RP work too.

 
19 I Am Not A Pork Chop Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
Wendy finds this 20ish and I find it about 18 so it might be a little reachy.

 
Sat 5th Dec 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
14 Pitchfork - with Wendy Eden Trad 40m Average
OK climbing but has two large loose blocks. Be ware.

 
15 A Weed in the Garden - with Wendy Eden Trad 26m Good
Good climbing all the way. Fun.

 
16 Babylon - with Wendy Eden Trad 25m Very Good
Take a #2 RP for the start, and a single rack of cams. Great climbing and rock. And gear - lots of great wires. Just did the first pitch. If you want to avoid the slightly exciting start crux past the #2 RP you can traverse in from left or right.

 
16 John Thomas - with Wendy Eden Trad 30m Average
Pretty hard and not very protected start. Not as good as the others.

 
15 14 Wild Mountain Thyme - with Wendy Eden Trad 30m Good
Worth a star - worthwhile

 
18 Access - with Wendy Eden Trad 30m Good
Fri 4th Dec 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
10 Eskimo Nell Trad 130m Very Good
I find the start greasy and horrible - and not that well protected. I much prefer the LH start - which is not well protected, but not greasy or horrible.

 
10 10 R Eskimo Nell LH start Trad 110m Classic
21 Live Footage - with Callum Dougal Trad 35m Don't Bother
Looks good but isn't, Scarecrow is the route to do.

 
Thu 3rd Dec 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully Parsley Area
21 Parsley Trad 12m Very Good
This is excellent. Start is technical on great rock, finish is a bit easier. Looks like 23, even when you're on it! Might be a bit scary to lead in the bottom half. Top half would be fine.

 
21 Sage - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Good
Good climbing, would be a bit worrying to lead in the lower third I think. And maybe a touch runout at the top.

 
18 Rosemary - with Wendy Eden Trad 10m Good
Good fun, plenty of gear.

 
Thu 3rd Dec 2015 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
15 No Place for Foxes Trad 30m Average
Thu 3rd Dec 2015 - Arapiles
Bluffs John's Pinnacle
18 Shanghai - with Suzan Hobbs Trad 30m Average
Same unprotected bouldery start as Shalimar. Take a big cam for the pocket. Rock's probably not great.

 
Wed 2nd Dec 2015 - Arapiles
Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall
18 Limp - with Wendy Eden Trad 20m Good
Mon 30th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall
23 Myself - with adam demmert Mixed trad 10m, 2 Very Good
Nice climbing with all the hard moves in the top third. Easier than BM, might be 22?

 
Sun 29th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
22 20 They Eat Pigeons Don't They - with Lou Mixed trad 30m, 1 Very Good
I thought this was a really good route. Thought provoking all the way, I was a bit suspicious of some of the gear on the top half, but I think there's enough good stuff to keep you safe. For me the crux was definitely the bottom crack.

 
16 Absolutely Fabulous Trad 88m Very Good
Great! As good as Skylark but maybe easier.

 
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
9 The Parson's Nose Trad 35m Good
17 Beelzebub Trad 27m Average
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock Deacon Area
15 Deacons Dilemma Trad 16m Good
Harder than it looks

 
9 Gloop Trad 16m Average
9 The Priest Trad 20m Good
15 Hollingworth and the Little Boy Trad 10m Good
Remarkably worthwhile, looks like nothing.

 
18 Prelate Trad 14m Good
A very hard crank after the overhang

 
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock Hells Bells Area
9 Hell's Bells Trad 13m Good
11 Armageddon Trad 13m Good
Techo

 
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
19 Mum's the Word Trad 8m Average
17 Behemoth - with Louis Pavlin Trad 45m Good
Good climbing but the rock is really a worry.

 
19 Renunciation Mixed trad 30m, 2 Average
14 13 Sky Pilot - with Wendy Eden Trad 35m Good
Pretty tough off the ledge

 
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Werewolf Area
21 Red Zinger Trad 27m Average
17 16 Full Moon Trad 85m Good
Fun multi pitch, you can finish up something at Cliche Wall for 4 pitches.

 
22 Goodbye Trad 30m Very Good
Keep traversing! Excitement plus.

 
25 Colour Scheme Trad 25m Good
Not quite as good as it looks sadly. Still good, but it looks like it's going to be great.

 
26 Tribulation Mixed trad 25m, 1 Don't Bother
Not that great

 
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Cliche Wall
11 Redback Trad 15m Average
20 Top Gear Trad 15m Good
19 Left, Right and Centre - with Paul Deacon Trad 15m Good
19 Left, Right and Centre - with Paul Deacon Trad 15m Good
19 Middle of the Road - with Paul Deacon Trad 15m Good

Showing 1 - 100 out of 900 ascents.

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