Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 25th Dec 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Free Will - with Geordie Webb | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.
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Wed 16th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
22 | Fine Tune - with Wendy Eden | 16m | Average | |||
Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.
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Sun 13th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
21 | Amazing Lace Direct Start | 23m | ★ Good | |||
Vaguely remember climbing is not that hard but gear is not that good
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Fri 11th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Family Food - with becca saurus | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux
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Wed 6th Jul 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Running Amok - with Wendy Eden | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
10 laps training in my Become Adam Demmert programme. Having the plastic surgery next week - so excited! Conditions a bit warm, had to climb shirtless by the end.
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Thu 9th Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
23 | ★ Rain Aneurysm - with Wendy Eden | 35m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.
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Sun 5th Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
19 | ★ Silent Senile Running Foxes - with Wendy Eden | 35m | ★ Good | |||
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.
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16 | Heart Full of Soul - with Wendy Eden, Kylie Jarrett, Kane Hendy | 60m | ★ Good | |||
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.
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21 | ★★ Only Fools Eat Marmite | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 2nd Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
18 | ★ Perpetual Standstill - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 40m | ★ Good | |||
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!
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13 | ★ Sundowner - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 30m | ★ Good | |||
The start's quite good, then the rock quality falls away a bit. Take a few big cams if you want to climb the LH corner, fortunately the RH corner has good normal sized gear and ok climbing.
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22 | ★ Cream Between - with Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ Good | |||
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.
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Sat 28th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Walking Amok | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 23rd May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Meekly Unconcerned | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing with some dodgy rock (gave it a good kick on second though) and some moss and dirt at the top. Great onsight lead by Wendy!
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Sat 21st May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ Running Amok - with Wendy Eden | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Might be 23. Great climbing on big holds, easier and better protected than Amok!
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Wed 18th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
24 23 | ★ Walking Simulator | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Amazing. Incredible. My whole life as a climber has culminated in this. At least today it did.
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17 16 | ★ Guider not a climber - with Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Good | |||
This is good! Needs a brush but nice rock and moves.
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Sun 15th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion - with Wendy Eden | 43m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome in the first half, the rest is much easier and some loose rock but wow the first half is amazing. Like a harder version of Toccata, and now has a rap station.
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Sat 14th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 | Under Control - with Ben Weissner | 30m | Average | |||
Quite fun in bottom half, then very mossy and easier
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Sun 1st May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
17 | Armchair critic - with Wendy Eden | 15m | Average | |||
Quite fun and a good lead onsight by Wend.
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21 | ★ Ice is Nice - with Wendy Eden | 12m | Average | |||
Felt hard even on tr.
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Sun 10th Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ No Space for Boxes | 30m | Average | |||
Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Stillborn - with Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty hard and would be a pretty goey lead. Interesting climbing for the first 10m or so.
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Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area | ||||||
17 | Lou's Not 19 (Anymore) | 4m | Don't Bother | |||
20 | Greg Will be Pleased - with Wendy Eden | 9m | Don't Bother | |||
Very short and bouldery at the start with no gear.
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22 | Greg will be Amused - with Wendy Eden | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
22 | ★ Lou Direct - with Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Probably better than the original
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24 | ★ Man on the Land - with Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Good | |||
This is really quite good. Just toproped it, I think the gear would be quite tough to place on lead. Nice rock.
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Sun 3rd Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
23 | Procrastinationable - with Wendy Eden | 26m | ★ Good | |||
A good problem in the first half - I find the move to the roof strangely difficult to find a sequence for.
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Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Shiralee Wall | ||||||
8 | ★ Cold Episode of Influenza - with Wendy Eden | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Nice!
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15 | ★ I am a Banana Expert - with Wendy Eden | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Nice steady climbing. Take small cams. Might be 16? We're really not sure at these grades.
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18 | Great Sleeping Weather - with Wendy Eden | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, three interesting sections
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17 | Tallness is something Other People Suffer From - with Wendy Eden | 25m, 2 | Average | |||
Typically bold, take microcams and be prepared to run it out. Super bunched on the crux.
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17 17 R | ★ The Crumpet Didn't Front - with Wendy Eden | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I thought this was quite good. The rock's not perfect and it's quite bold - there is no gear for the crux and you'll hit a ledge, and maybe the ground later. The climbing is interesting though and varied and feels like a bit of an adventure.
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Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
17 | Ed's Super Sarnie - with Ben Weissner | 15m | Average | |||
While it feels like every hold will snap off and the gear is behind the holds I had a good wobble up this. I don't think the climbing's that great but it's an exciting adventure. Both Ben and I thought it was tricky for the grade, but we were both having a tired day.
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Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Nile - with Kieran Lawton | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing on the middle pitch.
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Sun 20th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Shiralee Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ The Shiralee Direct - with Wendy Eden | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is really good - slabby start, interesting corner then a steep bulge with a crack.
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14 | Dingbats - with Wendy Eden | 50m | Crap | |||
This is really not good. Poor rock, poor gear, don't bother.
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17 | Banshee - with Wendy Eden | 50m | Don't Bother | |||
A small amount of ok rock, didn't seem worth a star
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Sat 19th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Grand Design - with Gareth Llewellin | 54m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Remarkably good - great rock in first section, a bit contrived at the start (but that doesn't bother me), technical and good gear. The only thing I thought was odd was that there isn't good gear before the first bolt, and it's quite high up. Maybe another bolt would be a good idea? Nice 50m pitch.
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Wed 16th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
10 | ★ The Serpent's Venom - with Wendy Eden | 60m | ★ Good | |||
Quite good but I like Fall of Man into Bishop better as a grade 11 linkup
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Sun 13th Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Is It About A Bicycle? - with Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Good | |||
A bit grubbly getting around the traverse, over the loose looking block and past the tree, but then I really enjoyed the top bit. It's in a great position.
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6 | Jack-a-Dandy - with Wendy Eden | 12m | Average | |||
Surprisingly OK, despite looking like a dirt filled rubbly corner
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Thu 3rd Mar 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Eye Spy | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Start seemed hard and not well protected. The rest is a good variant to AO.
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Thu 4th Feb 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
17 | A Night to Remember - with Kate Dooley | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Nice but all too short. Great position. Gear is poor in the first 5m or so.
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Mon 18th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | Puggle Burrow | 26m | Average | |||
Maybe easier if you're tall?
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20 | ★ Indecisivity | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Turned out better than originally thought. Maybe 19?
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23 | ★★ Misunderestimated | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One of those that would be much harder placing the gear. Very tenuous with no actual footholds. Flashed by Lou on TR - impressive!
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Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | ||||||
18 19 | ★★ No Turning Back | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Easy if you're tall. Quite fun.
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22 | ★ Totally Foxed! | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.
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19 | Unemploid - with Kate Dooley | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Just one move then suss rock and gear.
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Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
18 19 | Frontispiece - with Wendy Eden | 30m | Don't Bother | |||
There probably is ok climbing under all the vegetation and loose rock, but I won't be rushing back
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Sun 10th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | Pritchard's Neuralgia | 26m | ★ Good | |||
At least 18 - more if you plug up the crucial jam with gear! Beware large loose block in the middle.
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12 | ★ Eat Your Greens - with Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Would be better finishing up and right to Wild Mountain Thyme's chains. A little stiff for 10 Nod!
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Sun 13th Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Pet Parsley | 30m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Nice rock and climbing. Wanders a little and gets progressively easier but well worthwhile
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Sat 12th Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
13 | Blue Toes | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Thin on gear in upper half.
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13 15 | ★ Greenfingers | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Thin on gear in upper half.
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18 | ★ Brown Thumb - with Wendy Eden | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Take care with the start which is fairly hard and tricky to find the gear. A mid size hex or #12 Rock would go well, but a Yellow Camalot and #3 RP work too.
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19 | ★ I Am Not A Pork Chop | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wendy finds this 20ish and I find it about 18 so it might be a little reachy.
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Sat 5th Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
14 | Pitchfork - with Wendy Eden | 40m | Average | |||
OK climbing but has two large loose blocks. Be ware.
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15 | ★ A Weed in the Garden - with Wendy Eden | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing all the way. Fun.
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16 | ★ Babylon - with Wendy Eden | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Take a #2 RP for the start, and a single rack of cams. Great climbing and rock. And gear - lots of great wires. Just did the first pitch. If you want to avoid the slightly exciting start crux past the #2 RP you can traverse in from left or right.
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16 | ★ John Thomas - with Wendy Eden | 30m | Average | |||
Pretty hard and not very protected start. Not as good as the others.
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15 14 | ★ Wild Mountain Thyme - with Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Worth a star - worthwhile
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18 | ★ Access - with Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 4th Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell | 130m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I find the start greasy and horrible - and not that well protected. I much prefer the LH start - which is not well protected, but not greasy or horrible.
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10 10 R | ★★★ Eskimo Nell LH start | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
21 | Live Footage - with Callum Dougal | 35m | Don't Bother | |||
Looks good but isn't, Scarecrow is the route to do.
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Thu 3rd Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully Parsley Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Parsley | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is excellent. Start is technical on great rock, finish is a bit easier. Looks like 23, even when you're on it! Might be a bit scary to lead in the bottom half. Top half would be fine.
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21 | ★ Sage - with Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing, would be a bit worrying to lead in the lower third I think. And maybe a touch runout at the top.
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18 | ★ Rosemary - with Wendy Eden | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, plenty of gear.
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Thu 3rd Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
15 | No Place for Foxes | 30m | Average | |||
Thu 3rd Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs John's Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★ Shanghai - with Suzan Hobbs | 30m | Average | |||
Same unprotected bouldery start as Shalimar. Take a big cam for the pocket. Rock's probably not great.
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Wed 2nd Dec 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Limp - with Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 30th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Myself - with adam demmert | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climbing with all the hard moves in the top third. Easier than BM, might be 22?
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Sun 29th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
22 20 | ★★ They Eat Pigeons Don't They - with Lou | 30m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought this was a really good route. Thought provoking all the way, I was a bit suspicious of some of the gear on the top half, but I think there's enough good stuff to keep you safe. For me the crux was definitely the bottom crack.
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16 | ★★ Absolutely Fabulous | 88m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great! As good as Skylark but maybe easier.
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Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
9 | ★ The Parson's Nose | 35m | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★ Beelzebub | 27m | Average | |||
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock Deacon Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Deacons Dilemma | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Harder than it looks
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9 | Gloop | 16m | Average | |||
9 | ★ The Priest | 20m | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★ Hollingworth and the Little Boy | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Remarkably worthwhile, looks like nothing.
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18 | ★ Prelate | 14m | ★ Good | |||
A very hard crank after the overhang
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Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock Hells Bells Area | ||||||
9 | ★ Hell's Bells | 13m | ★ Good | |||
11 | ★ Armageddon | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Techo
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Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
19 | Mum's the Word | 8m | Average | |||
17 | ★★ Behemoth - with Louis Pavlin | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing but the rock is really a worry.
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19 | Renunciation | 30m, 2 | Average | |||
14 13 | Sky Pilot - with Wendy Eden | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty tough off the ledge
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Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Werewolf Area | ||||||
21 | Red Zinger | 27m | Average | |||
17 16 | ★ Full Moon | 85m | ★ Good | |||
Fun multi pitch, you can finish up something at Cliche Wall for 4 pitches.
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22 | ★★ Goodbye | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Keep traversing! Excitement plus.
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25 | ★ Colour Scheme | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Not quite as good as it looks sadly. Still good, but it looks like it's going to be great.
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26 | Tribulation | 25m, 1 | Don't Bother | |||
Not that great
|
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Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Cliche Wall | ||||||
11 | Redback | 15m | Average | |||
20 | ★ Top Gear | 15m | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★ Left, Right and Centre - with Paul Deacon | 15m | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★ Left, Right and Centre - with Paul Deacon | 15m | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★ Middle of the Road - with Paul Deacon | 15m | ★ Good |