Showing all 47 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 2nd Jun 2016 - Grand Morne | ||||||
Les Toits | ||||||
5.6 | ★★★ Le Dromadaire - with Kapwe | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Incroyable. L'exposition est intense, les pieds rares, mais le plaisir assuré!
|
||||||
Thu 2nd Jun 2016 - Grand Morne | ||||||
Le Grand Dièdre | ||||||
5.5 | ★★★ La Voie du cèdre | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 29th May 2016 - Grand Morne | ||||||
Les Voies de la Grotte | ||||||
5.3 | ★ L'initiation express | 90m | Average | |||
Les premiers mouvements sont définitivement plus difficile que 5.3, donc attention si vous initiez des débutants en lead. La première longueur n'est pas si intéressante, mais très facile par la suite.
|
||||||
5.4 | ★★ La Première | 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sale. Quand la saison est avancée, les framboisiers dans le début rendent ça pas mal moins amusant. Attention au MÉGA DRAG qui peut se créer si vous protégez à droite au départ... très facile de se couper tout le plaisir de la grimpe dans cette voie si on n'y porte pas attention.
|
||||||
5.6 | ★★ Agréable surprise - with isabelle, Émilie D-B | 90m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Voie très agréable. Le départ se protège plus ou moins bien, mais il est facile de continuer jusqu'à une vire un peu plus haut pour débuter les protections. Attention au drag qui peut se créer vers la fin, quand on traverse à gauche vers le relais. Le rappel est long... prévoir 2 cordes dans un monde idéal, sinon il faut dégrimper la fin (facile, mais sale)
|
||||||
Sun 29th May 2016 - Grand Morne | ||||||
La Grande Face | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ P'tit coco d'Pâques | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Très belle voie bien protégée.
|
||||||
5.5 | ★ La Mocassin | 120m | ★ Good | |||
Cette voie est très sale, mais tout de même amusante. Serait sans doute un classique intéressant si elle était nettoyée de ses blocs instables et des champignons qui l'envahissent.
|
||||||
5.7 | ★★ Cracker Jack | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
L'une des plus belles voies que j'ai faites. Un excellent moyen d'atteindre un sentiment d'extase en grimpant. Bien protégé, juste assez demandant. Et de belles surprises
|
||||||
5.6 | ★★★ La Piquette | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Le mouvement de départ est en bloc. Un peu engageant et intimidant jusqu'à la sortie de la première face, mais toute la voie est incroyablement belle. Un incontournable, même si vous grimpez plus fort.
|
||||||
Sun 29th May 2016 - Grand Morne | ||||||
Les Voies de la Vire | ||||||
5.5 | ★★★ La Surprenante | 95m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.6 | ★★ Plein-air Plus | 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Belle roche magmatique sur la fin.
|
||||||
Sun 29th May 2016 - Grand Morne | ||||||
Le Grand Dièdre | ||||||
5.6 | ★★★ Variante Flèche brisée - with Émilie D-B, JP Gautro | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Grimpe de nuit, très amusant. Un peu runout par bouts, mais facile. Je recommande d'aller rejoindre le relais de La Voie du cèdre pour plus de plaisir en groupe!
|
||||||
5.5 5.5 PG | ★★★ Le Grand Dièdre - with isabelle, Émilie D-B | 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Vraiment amusant. Je recommande de prendre le relais intermédiaire pour faciliter la communication et éliminer un peu de drag (bien que la voie soit assez linéaire). Pas toujours évident à protéger partout, mais en général tout est solide et les positions sont bonnes.
|
||||||
Tue 3rd May 2016 - Cathedral Ledge | ||||||
Lower Left Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Bombardment - with Kapwe | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
The first pitch (5.6 R) is a scary start for the leader, but fun all and all. The second pitch (the crack itself) is a megaclassic that must be done if you're in the area. Well protected crack, full of painful but strong finger/hand/fist/toe jams, slanting over a polished slab. The finish is a relief for your calf, but a reminder that crack and slab are very different
|
||||||
5.7 | ★★ Fun House - with Kapwe | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice and diverse climb. Both pitchs are great, and a good testpiece for the grade, with good pros and fun crux.
|
||||||
Tue 3rd May 2016 - Cathedral Ledge | ||||||
Thin Air Face | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ Thin Air - with Kapwe | 91m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Superb climb, definitely a mega classic. Pitch 1&2 can be easily linked. Pitch 4&5 could be too, but take into account that communication will be very difficult. There is a runnout at the top of pitch 5.
|
||||||
Wed 26th Aug 2015 - Whitehorse Ledge | ||||||
The Slabs | ||||||
5.5 5.5 II R | ★★ Standard Route | 350m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Although very easy, this climb is still very fun to do, simply for the adventure and long climb feeling. Perfect to initiate people to trad and multipitch.
Beware of rope drag, though. Bring many long slings. We actually did two variations to the route; we added a pitch by using the original route in the diedre on the left (superb), and we switched the 7th pitch traverse for the 5.7 slab coming up from Slab Direct I think. |
||||||
Wed 26th Aug 2015 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Le fou | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Diagonale du fou | 60m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The protections are not easy to place, but seem very good once in the rock. The climb is sustained, but amazing!
|
||||||
5.8 | ★ La petite Delphine | 50m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Really dirty route.
Awkward fun moves at the start, and very nice moves over the first ledge.
I could not find a clear anchor/second pitch, so we did the whole thing in a single push...
|
||||||
Wed 26th Aug 2015 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.5 | ★★ Le Marchand de Sable | 16m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Les Acrobates de l'Espace | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy climb, lots of variations possible. Great to learn how to place a wide variety of gear. In my opinion, you don't need the two blots in the middle (there is very good placement near).
|
||||||
5.6 | ★ Madame la Marquise | 20m | ★ Good | |||
5.8 5.7 | ★★ Le Castor Bricoleur | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The climb is mainly around 5.6/5.7, but I found the diedre at the top to be sustained and steep, bringing the grade up to 5.8 (5.7+...) in my opinion.
Nice climb! |
||||||
Thu 20th Aug 2015 - Cannon Cliff | ||||||
Whitney-Gilman Area | ||||||
5.7 5.7 II | ★★★ Whitney-Gilman Ridge | 180m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The two last pitchs are filled with huge unstable rocks... beware. The climb is still amazing!
|
||||||
Wed 20th May 2015 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Hippocampe | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ Juliette & Romeo | 40m | ||||
Belle route. J'ai trouvé difficile de trouver un bon rappel au sommet.
|
||||||
5.5 | ★★ Morticia & Gomez | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Belle route d'initiation. J'ai trouvé difficile de trouver un bon rappel au sommet.
|
||||||
Wed 20th May 2015 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
La Petite Folie | ||||||
5.5 | Dulfer Loufoque | 18m | Average | |||
5.5 | ★ Diedre Maboul | 17m | Average | |||
Wed 20th May 2015 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Le fou | ||||||
5.9 | ★ La valse des retraités | 45m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Superbe voie. Première longueur assez technique, mais très protégée (sport). Seconde longueur technique, positionnement unique formant un beau casse-tête (mixte). Très difficile à nettoyer en rappel, beaucoup plus facile en second. Attention, la station de rappel indiquée dans le guide n'existe plus, mais il y a beaucoup de gros arbres sur la vire.
|
||||||
Wed 20th May 2015 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Controverse | ||||||
5.5 | ★ hiroshima | 30m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Beaux mouvements, bonnes protections. Le relais est par contre très mal positionné; Prévoyez une longue sangle pour éviter une friction terrible, et pour équilibrer les plaquettes.
|
||||||
Fri 15th May 2015 - Mont Pinacle | ||||||
Variante Côté-Codère | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Variante Côté-Codère | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Absolutely wonderful!
|
||||||
Fri 15th May 2015 - Mont Pinacle | ||||||
Major Plumpudding | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Major Plumpudding | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 15th May 2015 - Mont Pinacle | ||||||
Le Grand Dièdre | ||||||
5.5 | ★★★ Directissime | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.5 | ★★★ Classique | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fri 15th May 2015 - Mont Pinacle | ||||||
Rocher École | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Supercrack | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very dirty at the moment, and clearly not the 5.7+ announced in the topo, but a very nice route with two demanding/rewarding crux. Beware the top, which is (really) hard to protect and often (very) dirty, which makes things a bit more spicy...
|
||||||
Thu 24th Jul 2014 - Lac Larouche | ||||||
Tall Man's Misery | ||||||
5.5 | ★ Tall Man's Misery | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 24th Jul 2014 - Lac Larouche | ||||||
Mur de Freud | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Inconscience | 25m | Average | |||
5.8 | ★★ Amitié | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 24th Jul 2014 - Lac Larouche | ||||||
Hayfever | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Hayfever | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 24th Jul 2014 - Lac Larouche | ||||||
Bing-Bang-Bong | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ La Bong | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 3rd Jun 2014 - Mont Pinacle | ||||||
Le Grand Dièdre | ||||||
5.6 | ★★★ Camay | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 3rd Jun 2014 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Controverse | ||||||
5.8 5.7 PG | ★★ Serpent referendaire | 25m | ★ Good | |||
While most of the route is 5.7, the first and the last moves are way harder, and not that well protected. Delicate positioning!
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Jun 2014 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Antre du Dragon | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ L'Ecaille du Dragon | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The first section, in the scale itself, is superb. Good idea to bring big cams (2-3 x #3 C4).
|
||||||
5.8 | ★ La Gaillarde | 25m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Well protected, perfect for initiations. Beware the first move if you go straight and the bottom!
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Jun 2014 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
M & M | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ M&M | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Superb, wonderfuly protected and varied crack.
|
||||||
5.7 | ★★ Krakabra | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Not as well protected as mentionned, but still nice!
|
||||||
Sat 14th Sep 2013 - Mont Pinacle | ||||||
Longues voies | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Pixie (Pixie Linkup Anneau de Saturne)
1
5.9
linkup Anneau de Saturne
, lead by
Kapwe
2
5.8
linkup Pitch 1
, lead by
Horizen
3
5.9
linkup Pitch 2
, lead by
Horizen
4
5.7
linkup Pitch 3
, lead by
Horizen
5
5.7
linkup Unknown
, lead by
Kapwe
| 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very nice route, a long adventure!
We started from "Anneau de Saturne" or "Saturne", not sure... but I would recommand neither with a backpack.
We finished with a direct line of sport climbing in "La boîte à surprises". Don't know the climb's name, but I'd grade it 5.7 We experimented a very wet face on the third pitch, making the easy flake much harder (especially since it is hard to protect). Beware! |
Showing all 47 ascents.