Ascents as Red point or Greenpoint by Dave Scarlett

Varied and interesting climbing, with plenty of surprise jugs.

Juggy and well protected the whole way.

Finally got it clean. An extra-long quickdraw on bolt 2 (to minimise how much rope had to pulled up during that tenuous clip) and a micro cam in the mini roof above the triangular hole between bolts 2 and 3 helped a lot.

Very easy, with the hole probably being the crux. Bring a long sling for a big thread in the hole.

Hard moves pulling through the roof, and then again after the last bolt. A couple of hand to thin hand size cams will adequately project the easy middle section. Bring an extra long draw for the second bolt (under the roof).

Fell on the third bolt when a foot slipped pulling past the roof. Came down and got it second try.

Consistent, easy jug hauling. 23 minutes from bottom to top.

Mainly easy slab climbing, venturing into the chimney crack and over a couple of big chockstones (bring long slings!) to finish.

Committing. From the rest jugs, pulled up to place a good small nut, retreated back down to test, and then motored though the crux and traverse without stopping. Much better than my previous attempt of stopping to place gear mid-crux.

Finally ticked it. A long quickdraw for the 3rd bolt definitely made that clip a lot more comfortable.

Misread the climb around the third (?) bolt and went right of the bolt when I should have gone left. Rested first attempt, got it clean second attempt. Steep but juggy, excellent climbing.

Tried this a year ago and fell on the top bolt. Felt easier this time. Tricky at the start and the finish.

Great jamming, and packs incredible value into its short length.

It's on from the moment you leave the ground. A very reachy start, then seriously steep and pumpy until it eases off around half height. Beware the first good horizontal slot at around 4m height - it opens up on the inside and so cams that can fit through the opening are likely to open fully once inside. A BD #0.4 seemed to work well on the far right side of the slot, where the slot is much shallower.

On my first try, rested on gear (as it turned out, just below where a rest was available!) after too much stuffing around with pro, and then got it clean second try.

Just spectacular. Continuously difficult the whole way, but with plenty of rest stances, and an increbile variety of climbing. Pumpy, overhanging crux start (figure out where you want to go before leaving the ground!), then delicate, balancy slabbing, then a final, committing bouldery move getting around the bulge past the final bolt.

Definitely take a BD C4 #1 size cam, as it is quite runout from the final bolt to the anchors. (The placement, about 3m above the final bolt, tapers down perfectly, so a large nut would also work.) Micro nuts are also very useful for a thin crack after bolt 7, which will take a large RP or small aluminium nut.

Bouldery, undercut start (hard ask for a 10!) and then jugs the rest of the way.

Jugs all the way.

Tough. Crux finger crack start leads to good underclings with poor feet, then a steep pocketed wall before becoming juggy. A final difficult finish up the right-leaning layback crack. Protection is fiddly through the pocketed wall, but a small nut can be placed in the flake crack on the right, just over the roof at the start of the pockets. Took two falls and lowered off before getting it cleanly.

Got it first attempt after bolting. Very tough and sequency start!

No individual moves were particularly hard, but finding them is another matter.

Surprisingly nice. Very bouldery crux moves past the first bolt, then thin, slabby and crimpy moves to finish. Consensus of 6 climbers who attempted it was that it was grade 22, or 23 if you're short.

Much easier this time. Realised that on previous attempts I was going way too far left. Fun and easy jug hauling through the roof, though perhaps more of a novelty than a proper climb. Was able to place all required protection before leaving the ground.

I'd say this is probably the worst way to get up the cliff, but then I haven't tried Locris yet...

Easy slab, broken up by several big flakes.

A runout section just after the start, but it's quite easy through that section (especially if you stay left). Fun moves around the upper flake and crack. I probably wouldn't send an inexperienced or non-confident leader up it though. Fairly lichenous.

Had unsuccessfully attempted it a couple of years ago, and got it first try this time. Easy start with fun moves to 2nd bolt, becoming harder after that, then a difficult, reachy crux finish. Very well-positioned bolts.

Fell on the first attempt, above the last bolt, just before the finish. There were good holds there, but I managed to get stuck on two desperate ones. In fact, good holds the entire climb, it's just that sometimes you need to search for them.

Bouldery start with crux (poor hands) around 3rd bolt, then plenty of rest once the left facing corner is gained.

Brutally hard (though very well protected) crux for a 17! Found myself laybacking on a hand jam, trying to get a foot up on the ledge. A BD #3 size cam was very handy immediately after the crux.

Gets a bit exposed/scary when you reach the chimney and find yourself suddenly over a very large drop!

Felt like grade 11-12. Perhaps only graded 14 because there's no protection?

Some nice hand jams, but really not much else going for it.

Think I managed to get a BD #.75 cam in above the roof in a poor placement, but other than that, only had protection in the Overachiever crack.

Extremely short, steep jug-hauling. Had to come down from the first bolt and take a look at the route from the ground as the afternoon sun was blinding me to the point where I couldn't see the second bolt!

Brittle, sandy rock, spiders, and a rubbish dump down the bottom. Just what you want in a climb.

With a low, bouldery crux and an even (albeit sloping) landing, it is possible to treat this as a highball boulder problem, though I would not recommend this. With the crux having juggy handholds and poor feet, it is possible to climb in hiking boots. I would not recommend that either.

Thought it was only slightly easier than Sze, but with much better protection opportunities.

Nice moves, but no protection until near the top. Definitely not recommended for uncertain leaders!

Surprisingly decent for the area, aside from a chossy start (avoidable by walking up the ramp to the right) and a bit of plant growth in the crack. Well protected and enjoyable.