Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 11th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Rhum Dhu | ||||||
8 |
★★ Shandy
- with
Daniel Bush
1
8
33
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
Cruisy and fun, well worth doing. THe position is fantastic — photos of climbers on this pitch from the other side look awesome.
3
6
14
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
Ok, this felt like grade 12-14... Was pretty sandy and little to no pro at top. Cool start though. Worth doing, but don't expect grade 6. It's much harder than the previous two pitches. | 73m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better than expected! The approach is almost the same for DRP, and an adventure in itself. In Shandy the scramble out after P2 is also another adventure! We did the first 3 pitches, absailed down back to the top of 2 and scrambled out left. Gave P4 (or 3b as per book) a miss given the warnings here in The Crag. Also looked pretty weird to get into the chimney — would have been a challenge!
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Lassie's Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Road To Ruin - with Emily Hoffmann | 25m | ★ Good | |||
great moves on this, but thin and fiddly gear for most of it (not to mention zero pro for the first ~5m). I somehow pulled an "Andreas" and didn't clip my last piece (which was a very questionable small cam). Quite liked the top though, despite being very poorly protected...
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Apline - with Emily Hoffmann, Timothy Tan, Sarah Jessop | 70m | ★★★ Classic | |||
awesome and pleasant cruisy climb. First tassie tiger for Em and I Slightly tainted by this french dude who absailed over our rope and kept top roping stuff between us, haha... We did it at the same time as Tim and Sarah tackled the corner route on the right!
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Thu 21st Mar 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
14 |
★★ Fiddlesticks
- with
Emily Hoffmann
1
35m
2
30m
| 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful and classic! What an intro to the pipes. But Em and I only did pitch 1 as it was her 're-introduction' to trad multi-pitch after a long hiatus, and pitch 1 delivered enough adrenalin, after which we were happy to come down, haha... Looking forward to come back to do the top pitch.
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Fortescue Bay | ||||||
The Moai | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Sacred Site - with Emma | 30m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sensational, will so happily come back! We scrambled the first 'pitch' before roping up. Glorious to have done this as my first climb in Tassie!
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Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 |
★★★ Lamplighter
- with
Patrick
1
10
30m
lead by
Patrick
2
14
30m
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
cool, long and interesting climbing. Not that easy, but not hard.
3
13
18m
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
Holy crap, what is that ending?! Will never forget it. Managed to protect it pretty well with a big nut though. | 78m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 26th Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Muldoon - with Andrew Dolan | 42m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sensational, can't wait to come back. Such a spooky step around the corner in pitch 1, but so good, jug street. And I ended up linking pitches because there were people in the belay (doing something on the left that shared the belay). Not sure I recommend linking, as the rope drag was horrendous.
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Fri 26th Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari - with Tristan Walker, Vera | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sensational, great gear. What a good start of the trip. Looks easy from the ground, but feels more interesting while climbing!
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Devil's Peak | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Sooky Sooky La La - with Emily Hoffmann | 22m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is absolutely sensational! A bit of everything, but the step right onto the blank wall is the EPIC part. Find those underclings that make the impossible possible and go for glory (I used a slightly over cammed #4 there) the bolts at the top are ok , but the fixies were not. I managed to open the gates on one of them (when the screw part of the gate split in two) and I left an aluminium screw gate biner of mine to replace that one, but couldn’t open or replace the others by hand - need pliers next time.
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
16 | ★★ Plexas - with Emily Hoffmann | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really great and very well protected. The big block seems somewhat dettached, so imagining it moving gives the climb more spice for sure! Em crushed this on second!!
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Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Raetjen's Gap | ||||||
The Main Cliff | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Paradigm - with Hugh Edwards | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This route really makes the drive here pay off! A sunny but WINDY AS HELL (I honestly reckon 40+ knots) day while it was pretty wet in Adelaide, so pretty awesome. One of the bolts of the neighbouring grade 23 route is well in reach after the crux, so I clipped it as I didn't have good enough reasons to give the paramedics Plus the gale was making me barndoor heaps here. Possibly my windiest ascent ever! I'm ok with the critics coming hard on my ascent because of that — if I lead it again I'll try to avoid that bolt (no promises though). Especially if it's not windy.
The gear is actually great (except for some meters before the top), and the following are my own personal notes for next time (SPOILER ALERT, you only read the below if you want, and if you are reading this you are not planning a purist onsight anyway I guess): mid to small cams for the start, then #4 (extend heaps) and #3 (extend a bit) under the roof, and a #5 at the crux make it all ultra safe. A #1 after the crux is the first bomber piece, and a #2 in a flaring crack after is probably good enough. Then there is section with no gear. Small cams and nuts at the top. |
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Mon 12th Jun 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Great Wall Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Buckley's - with Hugh Edwards | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This was better than I expected and well protected — good gear is useful!
|
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Callitris Corner | ||||||
15 |
★★★ Hangover Layback
- with
Hugh Edwards
1
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
Move off the ground a bit tricky, then some cool slab. Cool pitch, but probably not as cool as the next epic ones.
2
lead by
Hugh Edwards
Awesome lead by Hugh — this felt harder than the other pitches I thought! Or at least more committing/exposed.
3
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
The money move is here – such a cool little hand traverse. Easier than it looks though, and good pro if you stop to place it. Epic. And then lots of interesting climbing after that part! | 90m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Flying Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct Finish - with Hugh Edwards | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This was an epic adventure. Hugh lead the first and third (with the second roof) pitches, and I led the second (with the first roof) and fourth (with the direct epic finish) pitches. We kind of added a pitch to get to the real start and another one to leave the buttress, so it was a long day... I was quite scared at that first roof, and it felt tricky. The direct finish felt easier than the middle pitches. Good to have some big gear. We put the belays according to the verbal description in the book, but that doesn't match the topo so well. Epic climb, too bad I was quite cold the whole time.
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Fri 9th Jun 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Checkers Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ triple hot and skink - with Hugh Edwards | 20m | ★ Good | |||
A decent option if you want to warm up for crack climbing or have little time at the end of the day (rings on top), like we had. In Adelaide it could have more starts, but at Moonarie I think 1 star is very generous really...
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Sat 27th May 2023 - Raetjen's Gap | ||||||
The Main Cliff | ||||||
17 | ★ Lead Break - with Emily Hoffmann, Hugh Edwards | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Wow, makes you think to get through the crux. Well protected though, so a nice intro to the crag!
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Great Wall Area | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Outside Chance - with Chelsea Cook | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The climbing is easier than it looks, but the gear at the top very thin, fiddly and basically terrible. Don't fall after half way! Still, epic position and exposure, and starting is the spice you need. We finished in the grade 12 original second pitch, which is pretty average, so will try Buckley next time.
|
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Great Wall Area | ||||||
13 |
★★ Chocolate Ripple
- with
cec
1
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
2
lead by
cec
| 60m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is very cool actually. Some fun laybacking early and then the slab is super fun and much easier and better protected than it looks. Second pitch reminded me of Raven in the Porongurups! 4 bolts, but small to medium pieces good for in between them!
|
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Gargoyle Wall | ||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle - with Uday Sharma | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very cool if you don't mind some mantles. The end is commiting and exciting actually!
|
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
The Ramparts | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Nervine - with Chelsea Cook | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just absolutely epic. Airy and great atmosphere for the grade. Had to hang my backpack from the harness to get through pitch 2! A few more chimneys in this than I expected. I had a quick go at the direct start and found it hard... Pitch 3 is the money pitch, but it's well worth doing pitch 4. Nothing to write home about in pitch 5, but then you just need to get out!
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Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Lower Tiers Goat Crag | ||||||
17 | ★ Kentucky Fried Goat - with Chelsea Cook | 20m | ★ Good | |||
This is not bad and would be a classic in Adelaide! Getting through the bulge at the start is the fun bit, where I found a left hand jam to get up. Fiddly gear in the middle, but not too bad. Great intro to the Moon - only worth coming here if you have very limited time, like for us in the first day startig at 3pm.
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Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
18 | ★★ Illequipt - with Chelsea, Uday, Gioele | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is quite good, but the gear at the start does not feel very good. Make sure to bring small stuff up... At least a bomber 0.5 before the crux (and after!) makes you feel happy to run that section out a bit. Stoked to onsight it!
|
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15 | ★★ Shedidit - with Chelsea, Uday | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice and well protected. Feels like you still need a bit of good technique.
|
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Siren Area | ||||||
10 |
★★ Xena
- with
Daniel Bush
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Daniel's birthday climb, and how glad I am we did it. That last pitch was probably one of my favourite pitches in araps ever. How dare people only give this 2 stars Shout out to Zorba (probably butchered that spelling, sorry!) for lending us his 80m rope, with which we managed to do 2 raps back down to the ground on rope stretch.
|
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Sat 28th Jan 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
11 |
★★ Piccolo
- with
Daniel Bush
| 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
We combined pitches. Lots of fun, but spooky at times (I am just too scared to climb trad apparently). Also, grade 11? Great holds and all, but 11? Araps is such a special place!
|
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Sat 28th Jan 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
- with
Daniel Bush
1
35m
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
2
40m
lead by
Daniel Bush
3
15m
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
4
40m
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
| 130m | ★★★ Classic | |||
SO EPIC! A small challenge at the start, a bit of rope drag to join pitches 1 and 2, but worth it. Then so cool to sit on 'the jetty',then an epic pitch to the Oasis (scary start!), and to finish off you walk behind the huge block to start an awkward chimney and an impressive last pitch! We also combined the last 2 pitches, so did it all in 3 (book says 5, Crag says 4). What an outing!
|
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Fri 27th Jan 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
15 |
★★ Toccata
- with
Daniel Bush
| 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The description in the book says you have to think in every move — so bloody true. If I trusted my gear better and hadn't place a million pieces, I might have been less pumped and scared. This is quite a good route though, just so unique and weird!!
|
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Fri 27th Jan 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces The Watchtower | ||||||
9 |
★★★ Arachnus
- with
Daniel Bush, Felipe Saraiva
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
All of this is amazing! I guess "Arapiles 9", anywhere else would be a few grades more than 9, but it's pretty straightforward climbing. Pitches 3 and 4 are epic!
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Thu 26th Jan 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Tiptoe Ridge
- with
Daniel Bush
| 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Absolute classic — loved climbing the pinacle and standing up on it! We then used the rope to absail behind its back to get on to pitch 3. Daniel stole most of my third pitch though! Easy climbing, but come one, grade FIVE? hahaha... that's the walk down after...
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Sun 27th Nov 2022 - Morialta | ||||||
Thorn Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Terrathea - with Morgan | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I loved this — plenty of gear and great moves. And you can climb up to the first good piece and downclimb as much as you want if you are feeling worried about the first good piece being high. I finished on the anchors to the left, but it looks like going right would be better actually.
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Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Aardvark - with Seb | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This was absolutely increadible. I top roped it as we were coming drom from D minor, but so keen to lead it one day — the climbing is amazing, but I wonder whether I can lead it... probably not... maybe after top-roping it a couple more times and scouting the gear.
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14 | ★★ D Minor - with Seb | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This was brilliant — when do you get to do 2 roofs on a 14, with such good pro. Araps, why had I not been here before?!?! Done in one pitch.
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Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece - with Seb, Zander, Brooke | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First climb EVER at Araps. I'll never be the same again! This was amazing, and the airy end was fantastic! Felt a bit runout at the end, but that just adds to this best day ever.
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Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Muesli - with Emily Hoffmann | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic, beautiful and well protected, just have to shake those arms on the rests
|
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Tue 26th Apr 2022 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
16 | ★ Golgotha - with Stacey | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is more fun than I expected — such varied climbing. And I thought the gear was average at some point, but in hindsight, given I placed 15 pieces on a 15m route, I guess I am just becoming softer, and the gear is actually plentiful!
|
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Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
16 | ★ Asgard - with Emily Hoffmann | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Average protection but pleasant climbing. It's good to have small gear for the end, where your head gets tested a bit...
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Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
15 | ★ Clea Direct Finish - with Emily Hoffmann | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Fun and well protected, a good way to get back into it, with nice airy moves at the end.
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Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Wild is the Wind - with Emily Hoffmann | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This was a little gem, but make sure your second likes traverses Also, if it's been rainning recently, be aware that you will go through a small waterfall in pitch 1 — our rope got pretty drenched! Love blueys multipitches so much, how I miss this place!!
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Mon 7th Jun 2021 - Kalbarri | ||||||
Hawk's Head The Apiary | ||||||
14 | ★ Sticky Fingers - with Emily Hoffmann | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Feels like a climb more than the 16 to the left. Great gear and nice holds when you look for them, good fun.
|
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16 | ★ Honey Drippers - with Emily Hoffmann | 15m | ★ Good | |||
ok.
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Mon 5th Apr 2021 - Pinjarra | ||||||
Boomer Hill Boomer Crag | ||||||
13 | ★ Pretence and Manipulation - with Emily Hoffmann | 25m | ★ Good | |||
We were so confused — plan was sated and calm, but we started on this thing and finished on the vertical crack that is the grade 17 one First ascent!?
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Sun 4th Apr 2021 - Churchman's Brook | ||||||
Slash and Burn Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Welsh Git - with Emily Hoffmann | 35m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is really good, but I simply can't see gear placements, and there's certainly no bolts...
|
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19 | ★★ Mainliner - with Emily Hoffmann | 28m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
It's possible that some bodgy dolts got clipped - but it's mixed anyways right?!
|
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Sat 2nd Jan 2021 - West Cape Howe | ||||||
Black Wall The Pyramid | ||||||
15 |
★★ Andromeda
- with
Emily Hoffmann
| 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally got on this! The tide and sea were perfect, so started super low. The wind however was ridiculous, at least 30 knots, gusting much more. What a wild place and what a wonderful route.
|
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Wed 30th Dec 2020 - Porongurups | ||||||
Angwin Peak West Face | ||||||
16 | ★ Cave Groove - with Emily Hoffmann | 60m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Good, climb with your feet and don't slip on this cheese grater!
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Sun 29th Nov 2020 - Albany | ||||||
Blow Holes Golden Gate Area Philosopher's Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ My New Leopard Skin Jocks - with Emily Hoffmann | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Nice little crux, fun little climb. It ends right after it becomes fun though.
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Tue 29th Sep 2020 - Peak Charles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Birthday Party - with Tim Dove | 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just pitch 1 due to starting late, but an awesome and committing pitch, loved it.
|
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Sun 27th Sep 2020 - Peak Charles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★ Juluka - with Tim Dove | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This scared me more than I thought it would, but while doing pitch 2 I had the best time. Great gear and what position. I must come back to lead it. I just hated the runout end of pitch 1 and the belay after that pitch was also a bit light on gear. But Tim reckons I'm just a soft sport climber. Coming back down was also an adventure on two long epic abseils on the other side of the gully, really cool.
|
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Sat 26th Sep 2020 - Peak Charles | ||||||
Karakoram Wall | ||||||
15 |
★★ Conquistador
- with
Tim Dove
2
13
42m
lead by
Tim Dove
4
14
30m
lead by
Tim Dove
6
3
50m
7
3
50m
| 300m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This was really good - steep and fun with good quality gear. We had hail and sun for 10 min, which was surreal, but didn't even get us very wet! Last two pitches are safer to solo than leading most easy climbs in Peak Charles!
|
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Fri 25th Sep 2020 - Peak Charles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Tier | ||||||
14 | ★ Sickle - with Tim Dove | 110m | ★ Good | |||
First pitch is a strange off-width at the start. Third pitch has some scary lose blocks and felt committing. A humbling start to the trip!
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Sat 23rd May 2020 - Statham's Quarry | ||||||
Quarry Right Side | ||||||
14 | ★ Child's Play - with Emily Hoffmann | 12m | ★ Good | |||
yeah, fun exercise in trusting small gear.
|
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Sun 22nd Mar 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
20 |
★★ Ben Trovato
- with
Daniel Bush
4
31m
lead by
Daniel Bush
5
16m
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
6
33m
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
7
13m
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
| 150m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is an epic adventure, and now I think the whole view, exposure and pure fun of most of the climb makes it a classic. Pitch one is a challenging crack, awesome!!! And pitches 2-5 are a cruisy little adventure across this insane wall with epic views. Now I must be honest and say that pitches 6 and 7 are utterly rubbish. I found it really hard to find a route with decent pro, and you just find yourself in a hell or runouts, shit gear, choss, and rope drag. Maybe if we bolted the last couple of pitches this thing could have an epic more direct finish too? Or maybe just climb it till the end of pitch 4 and abseil down, I think I'd recommend that...
|
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Sat 22nd Feb 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Apron Strings - with Daniel Bush | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is bloody awesome. Sure, chossy rock, but great pro and pleasant climbing, and super dry in rain. Bring doubles or triples of cams sizes 0.5-0.75 or run the top out like a legend!!
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Mon 27th Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
14 |
★★★ Sweet Dreams
- with
Daniel Bush, Alvaro
2
10
20m
lead by
Alvaro
| 120m, 20 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Ok Daniel, you are right, I hand't done the original finish
|
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Sun 26th Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
13 | ★ Charity - with Daniel Bush | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Fun, but no anchors at top, and traversing to the chains to the right is a bit crap...
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Sat 25th Jan 2020 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mescalito - with Daniel Bush | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun!
|
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19 | ★★ Central Pillar of Mordor - with Daniel Bush | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun slab, mildly scary run outs for me!
|
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Sun 12th Jan 2020 - Wharewerawera / Long Beach | ||||||
Pinnacle Lower Sunnyside | ||||||
17 | ★ Not - with Emily Hoffmann | 18m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky for the grade, but fun!
|
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14 | ★★ Alesia - with Emily Hoffmann | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent, fun, better than it looks!
|
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Tue 3rd Dec 2019 - Joll's Bridge | ||||||
Lower cliffline | ||||||
16 | ★ Chocolate Coated Parents - with Emily Hoffmann | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super pleasant! And different crack / corner climbing, I was positively surprised!
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Sun 3rd Nov 2019 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags One For The Road | ||||||
19 | ★★ Percy Pigsville - with Emily Hoffmann | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is AWESOME! Variety of styles, well bolted through the delicate crux, and good gear where you need it.
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Sun 3rd Nov 2019 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags Inner Space Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Inner Space - with Emily Hoffmann | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is a lot of fun!! And spicy committing finish! Didn't love the finish at the time, but glad I committed. At least the fall would be on a bomber #3.
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16 | ★ Left Hand Crack - with Emily Hoffmann | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Really nice warm up crack. And Willies is not known for cracks, so it's good that this little crack is here. Too short for more stars though, and it stays wet for a while after rain...
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Sat 19th Oct 2019 - Churchman's Brook | ||||||
Fang Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Editorial - with Emily Hoffmann | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Gear is pretty thin on this one, but generally a good warm up. Good to test your small gear placements I guess.
|
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Sun 29th Sep 2019 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
18 |
★★★ Mirrorman
- with
Daniel Bush
| 90m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Bloody amazing mix of climbing styles. And the last pitch delivers in awkwardness!!! My only concern is that a fairly big block (which is an important jug through the crux of pitch 4!) looks loose and moves a bit — if that thing comes flying you can easily kill your belayer...
|
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Sat 28th Sep 2019 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Daniel Bush | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is beautiful!
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Thu 25th Jul 2019 - Bauzinho | ||||||
Face Norte | ||||||
VIIa |
★★★ V de Vingança
- with
Emily Hoffmann
| 250m | ★★★ Classic | |||
1 - Diedro clássico, linda enfiada. Bem protegido, diferente e técnico. Morceguinho camarada dentro do fissura!
2 - Sem graça e fácil... 3 - Sensacional, movimentos bacanas até o crux, que é assustador e delicado, com 2-3 movimentos duros. Mas super bem protegido. 4 - Travessia horrorosa. Fácil, mas não PODE cair. Proteção horrível, precisava de mais uns 3 grampos pra ficar segura... 5 e 6 - semelhantes em técnica. Divertidas, mas nesse estágio eu já estava cansado e com muita fome!! 7 - porcaria e super fácil... |
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Fri 21st Jun 2019 - Vaucluse | ||||||
Diamond Bay Diamond Bay Southside | ||||||
16 | ★ LP - with Zoe | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Fun little route, especially exiting the roof. But not sure about where you're supposed to finish it — I topped out and built an anchor with the fence!
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Sat 1st Jun 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Abseil Gully | ||||||
12 |
★★ The Eyrie
- with
Emily Hoffmann
| 50m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is lovely, great position, views and exposure on an easy climb. The belay cave is awesome too!
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Sat 11th May 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Tombstone Wall - with Roni | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is fantastic!! Tricky start, but then it becomes straightforward. Beautiful position and exposure!
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Sat 11th May 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath - with Tim | 28m | ||||
This is AMAZING. I couldn't tell what's better, this or Eternity. And honestly this is nails, same grade as Eternity in my opinion — you actually MUST jam quite a lot, very little to nothing on the face to "cheat" the crack. Run out in the chimney as well, like every good chimney I guess...
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Sun 28th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
11 | ★ Angular Crack - with Emily Hoffmann | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
What a fun little line, it's surprisingly worth it for the grade!! I used it to get to the top and traverse to the anchors of On Edge to rappel down it and place gear
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Sun 28th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
13 |
★★ Joseph
- with
Emily Hoffmann, not done...
2
lead by
not done...
| 56m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pitch 1 is a lot of fun actually, the perfect warm up / intro to the cracks in the area. Didn't bother with pitch 2... Em killed it, as always...
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Sun 3rd Mar 2019 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Bayside The Deeps Area | ||||||
19 | ★★★ The Deeps - with Daniel Bush | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
My favorite at the grade here, and one of the best routes I've done in Point Perp generally!! The rope drag in the end is horrible though, I'll try to protect it in a way to avoid it somehow next time... The rock is shit at the start, but the climbing really easy. In general probably a bit soft for 19, but the exposure going around that corner is superb, totally worth the stars!!
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Sat 2nd Mar 2019 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Little Red Riding Hood Direct - with Gundula, Tim, Daniel Bush | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic route, even better than the original line. But it was a mistake to abseil down to the terrace below from the other wall (like I had done for Little Red Riding Hood). Definitely should have abseiled from the top of this route.
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Sun 10th Feb 2019 - Jane Fonda Workout Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Polish The Cucumber - with Chris | 28m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sensational, my favorite for the day. Great mix of moves, but why does that first bolt has to be so high? Easy climbing till there, but not enough to justify it...
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Sun 27th Jan 2019 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Little Red Riding Hood - with Francois Pieterse, Desiree | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This is sensational, my favorite at Pt Perp yet I think. But that end is quite an spicy runout!!
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Sat 26th Jan 2019 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Bayside The Yardarm | ||||||
16 | ★★ Sympatico - with Francois Pieterse, Desiree | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is one of the best routes I've ever done at this grade. Putting it down as a classic (not mega classic) just because the good parts are so short — the first 10m are pretty average...
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Sat 12th Jan 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | ||||||
20 | ★★ Atomic Punk - with Francois Pieterse | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bold lead! Enough placements for the run out bits (#2 is perfect for the middle), and some awesome moves, but a pretty hard onsight for the grade! It was quite a fight.
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Tue 1st Jan 2019 - Albany | ||||||
Peak Head West Face | ||||||
15 |
★★★ Albatross
- with
Emily Hoffmann
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
An absolute classic. The belays are fantastic, good pro everywhere (first 2 pitches) and a cool mix of climbing styles. We do need to talk about pitch 3 though. One microwire at the crux (first 2m) and then NOTHING. Easy climbing, but do not slip.
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Sun 25th Nov 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 - with Chris, Daniel Bush | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Probably the best trad 17 I've done, certainly so as a crack! Take doubles of #1-3 and a #4 if you don't want to run it out. I had 2 #2, 1 #1 and 1 #3, and I had to really run out the top of this route. Not to mention shuffling gear up. My #1 was both my first and my last piece, and the only piece in the last 10m or so. Happy I didn't shit my pants!
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20 | ★★★ Mindblower - with Daniel Bush | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good, but a mental test, cause those carrots at the start are in a terrible position in my opinion. If you are not tall and/or committed you can deck trying to get to the third bolt. Then it only gets better, the trad bit is lovely. Take small gear!
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Sun 11th Nov 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Auntie Jack - with Robin | 27m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic route, but a bold lead in my opinion. The gear is great overall, but a bit spaced in the first third. I placed a 1/2 micro walnut in a very shallow crack and shat my pants climbing pass it, but I guess it's all good experience! The tree that the book tells you to belay on top is not straight above the route if I did the right route! I belayed Robin in the cave with some really shallow but bomber cams.
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Sun 28th Oct 2018 - Churchman's Brook | ||||||
Fang Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ The Sting - with Emily Hoffmann, JP | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Super easy start, then interesting chimney moves. Feels harder than a 14 when you suck at chimneys... Well protected.
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Sat 20th Oct 2018 - Statham's Quarry | ||||||
Quarry Right Side | ||||||
14 16 | Preface - with Emily Hoffmann | 13m | Don't Bother | |||
2 stars?? This is shit. And there is very little protection... No bolts, so I changed it to trad. And soft for a 16...
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Fri 12th Oct 2018 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Northern Crag Banana Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Corpus Delecti - with Emily Hoffmann | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Again, an Alzheimer onsight after seconding it (maybe?) years ago with Chris. I loved this route, one of my favorites at Willies actually. Great to be able to abseil from the top.
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Fri 12th Oct 2018 - Wilyabrup | ||||||
Main Crags Inner Space Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Waterfall's Second Folly Direct Start - with Emily Hoffmann | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Alzheimer onsight, since I might have been on this on top rope ~5 years ago. Awesome climb, although not the best first climb of the day because of the pumpy start, got me scared while trying to protect the beginning... Beautiful mid section and a spicy last move (I was glad to have a #4 C4 before the final move).
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Sun 16th Sep 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) - with Conti | 130m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This is SENSATIONAL. I didn't think Sweet Dreams could get better, but moving onto that steep face (reminded me of parts of Bunny Bucket Buttress) made it much better!
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Sun 9th Sep 2018 - The Cathedral | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
17 | ★★ Ozone Action - with Emily Hoffmann | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice warm up!
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Sun 5th Aug 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Hocus Pocus Area | ||||||
8 |
★★ Hocus Pocus
- with
Felix, Bruno Alves Buzatto
| 40m, 15 | ★ Good | |||
Not sure what to say about this... I agree with the description that it's always nice to top out and shorten the walk out at the end of the day. The route is very beautiful. But if you have a very heavy bag, then it's actually a bit scary, because you just don't want to fall, and the bolts and gear placements are very well spaced out... So I wouldn't say it's worth it unless you walked down with limited stuff in your bag. The bush bash (if you consider that you meander around) is closer to 300m though, and again, not so much fun with big bags. I guess it would have been more fun with no bags, or just a small one for the second as normal multi-pitching... Also, it's very easy, but EIGHT? I am not sure... 8 is VERY low. Feels like more with bags, for sure...
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Sun 5th Aug 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity - with Felix | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of my favorite trad routes. Ever. Easier than it looks, but I was very scared at the top, so it felt amazing to finish it clean! I just did the first pitch, apparently that's what everyone does — those carrots for the hard next pitch look dodge...
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15 | ★★ The Carthaginian - with Felix | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is just beautiful, a very pleasant and beautiful line.
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Sat 4th Aug 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | ||||||
14 | ★ Refusal - with Felix | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Really nice actually, but the first few meters do not feel like a 14...
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14 | ★★ The Obituary - with Francois Pieterse, Desiree | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good and a bit awkward at times, but well worth doing!
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Sun 22nd Jul 2018 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
16 | ★ Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket - with Emily Hoffmann | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Beautiful, great mixed route with all the type of fun in this crag. Ledge at the top is wonderful.
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14 | ★★ Pledge a Legend - with Emily Hoffmann, Katie | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Beautiful line, perfect trad warm up. A bit awkward at the top, but lots of pro... Hangers needed for the top (and one carrot near the end as well I think).
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Mon 16th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
17 14 | ★★ Electronic Flag - with Emily Hoffmann | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is sensational, super long and beautiful, lots of pro everywhere! At the end of the climb Emily had so much of my gear, it was hilarious! We did the sandbag 17 start, which is really hard for a 17 in my opinion, but I guess this is FB...
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15 | ★★ Devil's Wart - with Emily Hoffmann | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This was sensational, what a nice intro to Frog Buttress. Pretty airy and a bit intimidating at the top, but SO MUCH pro!
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Sat 7th Jul 2018 - Berowra | ||||||
Ladder of Gloom Area | ||||||
4 | Cenotaph Corner | 8m | Don't Bother | |||
Well, I didn't know this was a "climb", I just walked up it with my backpack at the end of the day! I never thought I'd be logging an onsight solo here
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Sun 1st Jul 2018 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
19 | ★★ Long Line of Leanings - with Simon | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is absolutely beautiful!!!! Don't jump on it pumped!
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