Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Burggaillenreuth Heinrichsgrotte Links | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Mein Wort zum Sonntag — 2 attempts | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Burggaillenreuth Heinrichsgrotte Links | ||||||
8 | ★ Schnullerbacke — 2 attempts | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
was afraid of the runout, that killed my onsight try^^ even after checking out still a little scary
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7 Easy | ★ Für Göre — 2 attempts | 17m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
if you know how to climb it at the second bolt it feels easy
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Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Weihersbachtal Terra Australis | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Mr. Pink — 2 attempts | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go
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8- | ★★ Guruwari — 2 attempts | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go
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Mon 21st Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Mühlwand | ||||||
8 | ★★ Strand-Gut — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd got. Must be very hard for short people...
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Weihersbachtal Terra Australis | ||||||
8- | ★★ Surf's up - with Klumpertal Michael | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Boulder at the first bolt, then way easier but always a litte dirty...
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8 | ★★ Outback — 2 attempts - with Klumpertal Michael | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd bolt preclipped. respect if you climb this onsight^^
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Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Mühlwand | ||||||
8+ ~9- | ★ Flut | ★★ Very Good | ||||
3days. Steep boulder with bad footholds at the beginning, hard crimpy climbing afterwards...
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Zum Waldcafé | ||||||
9- | ★★ Latte Art — 4 attempts | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Wasserkröte | ||||||
8 | Private Emotions — 2 attempts | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
8- | ★★ Micro Habits — 2 attempts | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
8-/8 | ★★ Silver Lining — 2 attempts | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
8 | ★★ Klimakleber — 2 attempts | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Zum Waldcafé | ||||||
9- ~8+ | ★ Denk positiv | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
I climbed the first boulder exactly the same way as in the left route...
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8+/9- | ★ Das 7. Seidla ist frei! — 2 attempts | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
2nd bolt pre-cliped. harder than the right exit
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Plecher Wand | ||||||
8- | ★ Topsecred | 15m | ||||
The runout from the first to the second bolt is not so scary as it looks. Still I checked it out while abseiling from the neighbour route...
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Mon 26th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Steinerne Welt | ||||||
7/7+ | ★ Hin-DU — 3 attempts | 10m | ★ Good | |||
7- | ★ Herzl-ICH — 2 attempts | 10m | ★ Good | |||
8 | ★★ Klettermaxl — 2 attempts | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
right variaton with holds at the edge, this way probably easier..
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Mon 19th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Mühlwand | ||||||
8- | Arielle — 2 attempts | ★ Good | ||||
Really hard boulder at the 3rd bolt. Felt like 8+ for me...
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8 | ★ Jamaica — 2 attempts | ★ Good | ||||
if you climb left of the bolts, it´s easier. the runout to the anchor was quite scary for me...
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Hintere Stadelhofener Wände | ||||||
7 | ★★ Zebulon — 2 attempts | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
runout to the anchor, way more relaxed if you have a long sling in the anchor...
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Heidepfeiler | ||||||
8- | ★★ Dr. Drop — 2 attempts | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
line is totally weak^^ direct it would be harder, so you never know how far to the right you are allowed to go
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9- | ★★ Geteilte Freu(n)de — 2 attempts | 14m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd go. a little bit too easy for 9- imho. very cool moves, one 1or2-finger pocket is painful
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Tue 9th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Laurins Burg | ||||||
6+ | Wurzelsepp — 2 attempts | 12m | Don't Bother | |||
it is and probably will remain dirty...
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8- | ★★ Himmelsleiter — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
8+/9- Easy | ★ Rosengarten — 2 attempts | 15m | ★ Good | |||
7+ ~8- | ★ Waldschrat — 2 attempts | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Truppachwand | ||||||
7-/7 ~7 | Hole in seven — 2 attempts | 12m | ||||
7/7+ | ★ Riss mit Biss — 2 attempts | 10m | ★ Good | |||
8- | ★★ Respect — 2 attempts | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Calvario | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Bo — 3 attempts | 12m | ||||
Wed 4th Jan 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Terrarium | ||||||
8+/9- Easy | ★★ Wishing on a Star | 7m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
3rd go. short, steep, beautiful!
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Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Morgenleite | ||||||
8-/8 ~8 | Entkoppeln | 18m | ||||
two hard moves at the first bolt. felt very hard
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Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Hohe Nase | ||||||
9- | ★★ Der perfekte Tag | ★★ Very Good | ||||
after the mandatory loose dihedral really cool face climing with one zwergentod part into a slabby boulder, which was hard for me to decode...
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Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Plecher Klippen | ||||||
8+ | ★★ Meanstreet | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
3rd go. Very hard sequence at the second bolt if you are not tall enough to get the left hand pocket from the good foothold.
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Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Oberes Pegnitz- und Flembachtal Geheimaktion | ||||||
9- | ★★ Nicklas | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd go
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Mon 29th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Tick-Tack-Wand | ||||||
9- | ★★ Monster Blitz - with Klumpertal Michael | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd go. short and powerful. nice, if you like this style...
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Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Oberes Pegnitz- und Flembachtal Geheimaktion | ||||||
8- 8-/8 | ★ Löch'lzauberei | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
2nd go
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9- | ★★ Hook Island | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd go
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Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Odenwald | ||||||
Heubach | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Verwaltungsbergsteiger | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. In my opinion hard 8-, if you are under 180cm...
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Mon 18th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Pottensteiner Wand | ||||||
8 | ★★★ Zeitreise - with Klumpertal Michael | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 2nd Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Hohe Nase | ||||||
8 | ★★ Hummer für alle | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd go. Technical and sustained face climbing, quite hard for me...
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Mon 27th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Spies Spieser Wand | ||||||
9- | ★★ Berührung | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
typisch fränkischer überhangspass. der ein oder andere griff kann wehtun, aber dafür hälts auch im hochsommer
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6 | Schräger Riss | 20m | Average | |||
ein paar schöne (aber nicht besonders leichte) klettermeter, oben raus viel moos und bruch. Ganz oben am Baum gibts zwar modrige schlingen mit schraubglied zum umlenken. trotzdem kann/sollte man sich die zweite hälfte sparen...
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Spies Spieser Wand | ||||||
6 | ★★ Self Control - with Klumpertal Michael | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 26th May 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Weihersbachtal Edelsteine | ||||||
8+ | ★ Der träumende Delphin | ★ Good | ||||
3rd go. A little bit ugly to climb over the roof...
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9- 9-/9 | ★ Ohne Namen | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd day, all in all 4 tries. Very nice endurance boulder with a lot of possible betas. 13 moves to the anchor for me...
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Mon 28th Mar 2022 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Caprette Upper | ||||||
6c | ★★★ La Paura E La Voglia | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go
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6b | ★★ Il Sentro Del Pianto | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd go
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Thu 24th Mar 2022 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Falesia CPR Settore Destro | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Extralusso | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd go. Maybe a little easier...
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Wed 16th Mar 2022 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Colosseo | ||||||
7a | ★★ cassio | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go
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6c+ | ★★ traiano | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go
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Fri 19th Nov 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Weiße Wand | ||||||
9- | ★★ Mensch, Grummich! | 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd go. Not so easy start, then runout to a nohandrest-ledge. From there around 15 pumpy moves on sideclings and pockets. Exactly my style. Ends sadly in the middle of the wall...
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Sun 14th Nov 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Behringer Gedenkwand | ||||||
9- | ★★ a Brick | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
4 days of hard work ;-) felt very hard for me, can´t understand the old grading (8+). Everyone i know agrees with 9-. Very nice endurance climbing with a crux between 3rd and 4th bolt....
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Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Sonnwendwände Forchheimer Sektionswand | ||||||
9- | ★★ Sonne im Herzen | ★★ Very Good | ||||
3rd go. Nice slab with small shallow pockets to a good rest and then a boulder over the bulge. The big-dyno-beta seems to be the coolest and easist way for me...
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Mon 25th Oct 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Morgenleite | ||||||
9- | ★★ Hearts of Stone | ★★ Very Good | ||||
3rd go. Steep, short, long moves, perfect bolting!
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Sun 24th Oct 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Marientaler Wand Obere Wand | ||||||
8 | ★ Altersheimer - with Klumpertal Michael | 10m | ★ Good | |||
2nd go. Strange bolting. People seem to climb always to the left of the bolts. I did this only at the start, at the second bolt its more fun to climb straight up. All in all not so bad as expected
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6+ | ★★ Trittbrettfahrer - with Klumpertal Michael | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Not so easy at the start and at the end...
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Sun 17th Oct 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Oberes Pegnitz- und Flembachtal Weidlwanger Wand | ||||||
8- | Munaske (?) | ★ Good | ||||
2nd go. Not so bad. Small holds, no good warm up :-P
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8+ | ★★ Welcome to the Jungle | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd go
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8+ | ★ Alter Mann, was nun? | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go
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Fri 8th Oct 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Oberes Pegnitz- und Flembachtal Weidlwanger Wand | ||||||
9- | ★★★ Zaphod | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2nd day, some tries. Perfect rock, perfect ciimb...
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Sat 2nd Oct 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Dornröschenwand | ||||||
9- | ★★ Märchenprinz | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tried it some years ago without any chance in the boulder at the fist and second bolt. This year it felt way better and in the end it went surprisingly fast 2nd bolt pre-clipped...
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Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Zug um Zug | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. Little bit confusing at the start. Way better than it looks, really cool route!
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9- | ★★ Ikarus | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 days, 10 tries. 2nd bolt pre-clipped. Short, but every move is quite hard (and reachy)...
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Wed 22nd Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Veldener Wand | ||||||
7- | ★★ Endstation | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. Tricky at the end. Way better than it looks! Really fun climb
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Fri 17th Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Oberes Pegnitz- und Flembachtal Weidlwanger Wand | ||||||
8+ | ★★ Ton in Ton | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. Awesome endurcance climb in perfect rock. First bolt hard to clip, if you are not tall. This is why i preclipped...
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Sun 12th Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Neue Heimat | ||||||
9- | ★ Paradiesische Zeiten | 6m, 3 | ||||
3rd go. 2nd bolt preclipped. Not so hard, if your fingers match. Felt way easier for me than Clipsticker
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Mon 6th Sep 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Sonnwendwände Forchheimer Sektionswand | ||||||
8 | ★★ Sonnenbrand | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice one, tricky boulder at and over the bulge
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Sun 25th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Weihersbachtal Terra Australis | ||||||
8- 8-/8 | ★★ 4 ever | 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. Really nice faceclimbing on excellent rock!
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7+ | Wiedersehen am Fels | Don't Bother | ||||
2nd go. Quite ugly!
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Fri 23rd Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Rote Kante | ||||||
9- | ★★ Dropzone | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short but awesome!
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8 | ★★ Gedankenpolizei | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd go. Still a litty dirty, but nice and entertaining route...
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Sun 18th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Schweigelstein | ||||||
8 | ★★ Schlitterbahn | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route, top ten for me! Took me 4 days of trying, this one crimp is really hard for me
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Fri 16th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Enigma | ||||||
7+ | ? | 15m | ★ Good | |||
2nd go. Hard to read if there are no chalk traces...
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7+ | ★ Acht Jahre | 15m | ||||
2nd go. Hard boulder over the bulge. Imho at least 8-
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Mon 21st Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neukirchen Hartenfels | ||||||
7 | Deppenmove | 16m | ★ Good | |||
3rd go :-P Very hard start
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7- | ★ Firestone | 17m | ★ Good | |||
2nd go
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Mon 7th Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Amerikanische Botschaft | ||||||
9- | ★ Monica Lewinsky | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd go. A little painful, but interesting route. Better than it looks
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Wed 2nd Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Morgenleite | ||||||
8- | ★★ Fred Cole Gedenkweg | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. Great climbing!
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Fri 28th May 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Zwergenschloss Powerplay | ||||||
8+ | ★★ Berti Vogts Gedenkweg | 17m | ★ Good | |||
3rd bolt preclipped! Small holds and footholds, quite painful...
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Fri 30th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Morgenleite | ||||||
7- | ★ Scarface | 18m, 6 | ||||
2nd go :-P
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Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Höhlenstein | ||||||
8- | Fluchtwagenfahrer | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
2nd go. Where is the line?
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Sun 18th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Morgenleite | ||||||
8 | ★★ Ghost Dog | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. Hard reachy move
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Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Höhlenstein | ||||||
8+ | ★★ Painkiller | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd go. Great climbing! But maybe just 8 (we used the right edge at the top part....)
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8- | ★★ Walk with an Erection | 12m | ||||
2nd go. Felt harder
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Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Egloffsteiner Felsentor | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Ostverschneidung | 27m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 25th Mar 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Preßknockwände | ||||||
7 | ★★ Exercises in futility | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite pumpy, in the end its nearly no crack-climbing, even when it looks like...
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Sun 28th Feb 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schwarzer Brand Röthenbacher Wand | ||||||
7 | ★★ Wie Du mir - so ich Dir | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 27th Feb 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Münchser Wand | ||||||
7 | ★★ Dampfbügeleisen, direkter Ausstieg | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very polished, but still very nice
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7- | ★ Gelbe Seuche | ★ Good | ||||
2nd go. Maybe 7 fits better...
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Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Veilbronn Leo Maduschka Gedenkwand | ||||||
6 | ★★ Nürnberger Kamin | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
4th go. By far the hardest "6" I ever did in Frankenjura. You find good bolts, so you can concentrate on the fight. I think they forgot the A-grading^^
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Wed 18th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Weiße Wand | ||||||
7+ 8- | ★★ Weißwurst | 22m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. Crux at the end, quite hard for the grade...
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Sat 14th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Freundschaftsturm | ||||||
7+ | ★ Männerballett | 17m, 6 | ||||
2nd go. Tiny holds around the last bolt, which is hard to clip...
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Fri 13th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Stierberger Gemsenwand | ||||||
8+ | ★★ Zehn Jahre Glück direkt | 23m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
2nd go. I know, its a defintion. But my beta feels totally in line and should be around 7, for sure not 8+. Not a must-climb, but quite funny...
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Thu 12th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Freundschaftsturm | ||||||
8- | ★★ Schlaffmat | 17m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd go
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Sat 7th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Geißleinwand | ||||||
8 | ★ Vouloir c'est pouvoir | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took me several tries, very hard sequence in the upper part after the rest. Awesome route anyway...
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Mon 19th Oct 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hartenstein Zimmerbergwände Vorderer Teil | ||||||
8- | ★★ Ostermarsch | 17m | ★★ Very Good |