Ascents in Mt Ngungun by Dave OS

Put a maillion on the decent looking cord to rap. The other crud needs to be cut off but I hadn’t brought my knife.

Slowed down a bit and had a few moments after halfway - I didn’t bring as much gear as I wanted, so seldom felt I was able to place the perfect bomber piece, and felt pressured to run it out lest I chance a big ride near the top. Always felt in control, just heady - the exposure felt quite challenging.

P1 only. Got stumped by the blankness above, wasn’t feeling like traversing either side to get above it when I couldn’t protect the moves. Wasn’t comfortable with how hard I was going to have to crank on lichen smears and small crimps with a ledge below and no gear.

Kinda polished at the start, might be part of the reason people think it’s hard.

Fun climb, the start is not as juggy as it looks but the layback is cool.

Technically, not hard. Sustained though (for the first part), and without chalk marks the holds are very hard to spot. Pulled on every draw figuring it out. Difficult to onsight I think.

Barely got it clean with the top rope. Need a few laps to learn this one before it'll go properly.

First 'proper' trad lead. Ran out of time and had to retreat.

Felt like the crux was getting to the first bolt! Went nicely after that. Note no independent anchors, you have to use the chains on top.

Wasn't feeling the lead. The fall before first bolt would be very awkward and kinda long, and I was very marginal on the moves. Should have stick-clipped it. Great climbing though, definitely sustained!

Lovely jug hauling! Everything about it was nice!

Climbed racing the approaching storm! Added an extra sense of adventure with the wind, fading light and impending rain. Good fun! Made it just in time.

Felt easy for the grade, but nice and sustained. A fun route though.

First lead!