Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Solomos | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Grifos | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Zaloggo | ||||||
Koloneta | ||||||
6b+/c | ★★★ The strugglers | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another newbie, a classic to be tufa fest with an easy to spot crux and easier moves on the rest of the route. A bit harder than its 6b+ neighbour to the right so 6b+/c .
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Deos lower | ||||||
7a Hard | Morchella esculenta | 25m, 11 | ||||
A long and enjoyable route right on the edge of the canyon on a magnificent place, with lots of endurancy moves that culminate at a hard rock over to get over the lip and to the final slab. Hard
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Thu 13th Jul 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Deos lower | ||||||
7a/a+ | Einai exthros mou | 20m, 9 | ||||
A hard traverse right after the crux makes for the grade 7a/+
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6c/c+ | ★★ Einai filos mou | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some morpho moves at the crux
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7a | ★★★ Tsipouro probatina 8a se ena mina | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another short beauty
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7a+ | ★★ Verpa bohemica | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Power endurance
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6c | ★★ Verpa conica | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Shortie but unforgiving
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6b+/c | ★★★ Los zombies hippies | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very beautiful cruxy finale on pockets
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6b+ | ★★ Primula vulgaris | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Endurancy first part and cryxy finale
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6b/b+ | ★★ Art Vandelay | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard start to cruxy water groove
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Thu 13th Jul 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Natural mystic | ||||||
7a/a+ | ★★ Blocololopoulos | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
a hard power endurance crux a bit morpho 7a/+
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Thu 13th Jul 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
6c | ★★ Mikros timpanistis | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
long and enjoyable moves on tufa territory
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6a+ | ★★ Mikros timpanistis (first part) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
an airy crux on good holds nice one
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7c | ★★★ Madly dangerous | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
one of the best power endurance routes i have ever climbed, 2 very diferrent parts with minimum rest and very beatyfull moves a must.
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7b | ★★★ Leno in pericolo | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The first crux of vivere pericolosmente, a hard slab on very thin long moves on small crimps and ver bad feet. Not classic cause its a bit morpho thus the slash grade.
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Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Papa al. | 10m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Finally this highball went down, 7a+ if you have the flexibility of a yoga teacher like the first ascender, 7b for "normal" people. But for me very very hard i don't know if it were for the very bad conditions or if this route was just a bad nemesis for me. Gave it so many tries like i would in a route above the 8a grade and in the end the send try was a very bad one i had to dig very deep and it never felt easy as it would normally feel in any other route after so many tries.
Hopefully it ended and now i can focus on some harder projects that will go down in less tries😁.
As for the climbing a superb marble highball if i graded as a boulder i would say 7A. Kneepads are needed
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Orbetello | ||||||
Canne d'organo Settore Grotta | ||||||
7a | ★★ Senza via di scampo | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit confusing but when you find the right beta very nice, felt easier.
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Thu 23rd Feb 2023 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon The raccoons | ||||||
7a | ★ Schaeffer — 2 attempts | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
The direct variation of the crux of Cyril sneer, a hard 6B+ boulder prob. on a small incut but slippery crimp. Needs cold temps and maybe harder for the short.
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Tue 29th Nov 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon Tekmon Main | ||||||
7b+/c | ★★★ Unfazed | 32m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really hard to grade this one, hard 7a+ till the last bolt and with a hard very technical boulder problem that finishes with huge foot-off swing on sloppery/slippery "jugs" to get to the anchor. For sure very morpho and my style totally so will leave it at 7b+/c for now.
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Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon The raccoons | ||||||
5b+ | ★★ Sophia tutu | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A new addition, slab start to pocketed wall. A good warm-up for the sector or a good route for the first lead.
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Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon Tekmon Main | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Tony the Tiger | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A contender for the best route of the crag: slab and tufas start to hard crimpy first crux to overhang on good holds with desperate balancy slab finish second crux to overhanging finale... An amazing route that needs finger strength, good footwork/flexibility and endurance.
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Pades | ||||||
First Area middle | ||||||
6b | ★ Nimo | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Hard slab bouldery start then easier slab.
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Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
6b 6b/b+ | ★★ Tsoumpa flor | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bolted this one for the boulder problem in the start, a marble delicacy. After that a very easy slab to the anchor.
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Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Kremala | ||||||
6c | ★★ Verliga | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Starts with the first 2 bolts of tsoukarela and then continues to the left. A hard but with beautiful marble features middle part with a crux involving a small 2 finger pocket.
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Tue 13th Sep 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ G.furnaris | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very hard bouldery start and unfortunately very morphological for the short every other alternative beta is very very hard. One of those routes that u enjoy only when u send and never try again.
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
7a 7a/a+ | ★★★ Blackberry song | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hard power endurance start that eases up in the middle with a good rest and finishes with a tricky boulder. My favourite style, hard to grade harder than 7a but not 7a+ somewhere in between so slash grade to infuriate the purists 😛😛.
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Tue 6th Sep 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Brazilian souls | 10m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Marble climbing, hard bouldery and very technical, very crucial kneebar without which can seem 2 grades harder, but very very beautiful.
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Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
6c | ★★ Sefera | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard bouldery start on marble to a balancy middle part to a slab finale.
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Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Natural mystic | ||||||
6b | ★★★ Jerry | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The last "project" of the sector, bolted this one last year as the last route of the sector but didn't had time to clean and send till today. A very beautiful route sustained,better done in the summer so the belayer stands on the small "island" underneath.
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6c | ★★ Hamlet fox | 18m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
So nice to find already ascended routes. Very beautiful imho but hard, 6c/+.
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Thu 18th Aug 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Natural mystic | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Cinnamon | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Starts over the river with easy moves on marble and continues with sustained long moves till the anchor.
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6c | ★★★ & strawberry | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The direct start of cinnamon, a bouldery start needing good balance on marble will leed to the sustained climbing of cinnamon.
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Kremala | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Passo carrabile | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
After i cleaned Pa'lante i realized that this big route is actually 2 routes one on top of each other separated by a big ledge in the middle and with a very different character so I decided to put an anchor in the middle. Passo carrabile is sustained and with a hard slab crux that needs very good footwork and can seem harder. On the other part after the first anchor you face an immediate bouldery crux that finishes with a small roof and after that eases until the anchor. Amazing routes both.
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6c+ 6c+/7a | ★★★ Pa'lante | 28m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6c+/7a
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Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
6c 6c+ | ★★ Frank Costanza | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cruxy finale
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6a | ★★ Grimly | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Long and enjoyable
|
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7a | ★★ Softie (thira) | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard bouldery start to easier long slab.
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7a | ★★★ Reverse psychology | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing compression moves on the first cruxy part to easier endurancy finale.
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6a+ | ★★★ Tegridy | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Chimney and overhanging crux one of the best in this grade.
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7a | ★★ Randy (Randy (Tegridy extension)) | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard bouldery moves lead to slabby finale.
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6c | ★★ Tegridy direct | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crimpfest
|
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5c | ★★ Saitama | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hard start to amazing bridging moves.
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6c 6b+/c | ★★ One punch (One punch (saitama extension)) | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Amazing rock formation and moves.
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6a+ | ★★ Nique la police | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seems grim but fun climbing.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Mits the beaver | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Overhanging start leads to cruxy slab finale.
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6b 6a+/b | ★★ Pips | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Chossy first part but very nice finale.
|
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6b+ 6b+/c | ★★ Poor leno | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing orange marble climbing.
|
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7a 6c+/7a | ★★★ Super leno (Super leno (poor leno extension)) | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The perfect ending for the perfect route, tufas and power endurance finale.
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6c+ 6c+/7a | ★★★ The great pitsili | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Another mega route.
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Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Kremala | ||||||
6a+ 6a+/b | ★★ Tsoukarela | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Marble climbing with tricky crux that can feel harder.
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6a+ | ★★ Kotsiniasa | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Marble climbing, good footwork is the key.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Mpernteto | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Marble climbing, with buldge crux.
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Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Cosma | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
When i bolted this beauty i immediately noticed that the anchor would be a pain in the ass to clip. I thought a lot about where to put it cause i really hate routes with anchors that are hard to clip. The thing is that the crux starts right after a 7a+ skips one bolt and has 6 power endurance moves that lead to a slopper. From that slopper with very good body positioning one could theoretically clip, but the footholds are marble and one wrong placement and its impossible to clip. All im saying for future repetitions is that the 7c is not clipping the anchor, so if you arrive at the slopper and cant clip dont bother just take the safe whipper and continue with your life, exactly as i did myself on the f.a .
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Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Natural mystic | ||||||
7a 6c+/7a | ★★★ Sumerino island | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tufa start leads to a power endurance finale.
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6c+ | ★★★ Goa | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Marble start to power endurance.
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6c+ 6c+/7a | ★★ Angry viper | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard start to cruxy finale.
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6b+ 6b+/c | ★★ Vitis vinifera | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Puzzle middle crux.
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7a | ★★ Midge attack | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cruxy middle part on pockets.
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Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Deos lower | ||||||
6b |
★★ Namaste (Namaste P1)
1
70m
| 70m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Watergrove climbing.
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6a+ | ★ Koutourou | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
6c+ | ★★ Trustafarian | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard slab start leads to easy middle part with cruxy finale.
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6c | ★★ Akis kladias | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy start leads to cruxy wall.
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Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
6b 6b/b+ | ★★★ Fermes | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
An easy start leads to a black very technical blank slab and arete.
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6b+ | ★★ Roi | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bouldery start leads to slabby finish.
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6b+ | ★★ Trafos | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A natural line, a big crack with good holds but on overhanging terrain.
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6c 6c/c+ | ★★ Agriomilia | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A different start for trafos on big black tufas. Kneebaring is essential.
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7a+ | ★★★ The big short | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A short power endurance tufa fest, without the use of two kneepads and good kneebaring technique it may seem much harder.
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7a 7a/a+ | ★★ Zarkadaki | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A very beautiful line with consistency and beautiful moves on big black tufas. A kneepad can come very handy.
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6a 5c+/6a | ★★★ Alinka | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The direct finish of 420 avoids the squized chimney by using some good holds to finish on some slippery tufas.
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5c | ★★ 420 | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
An easy slab leads to a squized chimney finale.
|
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Tue 7th Jun 2022 - Kleidonia | ||||||
Kleidonia Right | ||||||
6a | ★★★ 2 | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
7a | ★★ Caffeine junkie | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Bolted this one right before the first lockdown and haven't tried since. It used to be an old top rope line graded 7a+, I think 7a is more appropriate. River-polished crimps and sidepulls really nice line.
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Thu 19th May 2022 - Kipoi | ||||||
Kipoi right from the bridge | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Xoris Oikto - with Dinos | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6b | ★ Sirokos - with Dinos | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 5th May 2022 - Kipoi | ||||||
Kipoi right from the bridge | ||||||
6b | ★ Sirokos | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up 1
|
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7a | ★★★ Xoris Oikto | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm up 2
|
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Mon 2nd May 2022 - Kablafka | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Acido nucleico (Dna extension) | 32m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing cold and windy temps made it look easy, its not its much harder than the the other 7a of the crag its hard to figure out and if the temps are humid or hot it may seem at least one grade harder. But it's a very beautiful new addition to this already beautiful Crag.
|
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Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Kyparissi | ||||||
The Hideout | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Zak | 20m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Bolted this beauty yesterday and cleaned and send today.Easier first half on holes and tufas and power endurancy second half on underclings tufas and sloppers with very distinctive moves that finish only at the anchor jug. So happy to leave my mark on this amazing crag, 7a imho i tried the 6c+ of the crag and felt at least 2 grades easier but will stick with 7a cause its a f.a. . Cleaned and blew but since is a fresh route use a helmet.
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Sun 3rd Apr 2022 - Kablafka | ||||||
6b | ★★★ Dna | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 30th Mar 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Romi | ||||||
6c | ★★★ romos | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Warmup such a beauty.
|
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Sat 26th Mar 2022 - Zaloggo | ||||||
Mnimio mnimio pano b | ||||||
6b | ★★★ Bella Lugosi's dead | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing arete in very photogenic place.
|
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Fri 25th Mar 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Romi | ||||||
7b | ★★ Tsakalaki | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First try putting draws, amazing route very morpho but so beautiful campus moves on sloppers.
|
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Sat 19th Mar 2022 - Zaloggo | ||||||
Mnimio mnimio pano b | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ axerontas | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 19th Mar 2022 - Zaloggo | ||||||
Mnimio mnimio pano a | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Promitheas desmotis | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing direct start of promitheas.
|
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6c | ★ Urban legend | 18m | ★ Good | |||
A very hard and friction-depedent boulder at the start defines the grade.
|
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5c | ★★ Eukolos xoros | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c+ | ★★★ 'leni | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very nice addition power endurance maybe 7a for the short.
|
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7a | ★★★ Popai | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
An one of a kind route start hanging and fight your way on fridge moves.
|
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Mon 7th Mar 2022 - Parnitha | ||||||
Fyli Climbing Park EPOS Fylis / Mikri Varassova Mikri Varasova | ||||||
6c | ★★ Diamberes | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Changed the grades according to the Athenian guide that has stiff grading. Very beautiful crux on small pockets.
|
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Sun 27th Feb 2022 - Varasova - Kryoneri | ||||||
Kolofotia sector | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Salome | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Kefalari Area | ||||||
Frygani Frygani Main | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Velina - with Tonia Machaira | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing power endurance
|
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Thu 6th Jan 2022 - Zaloggo | ||||||
Koloneta | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Ela mesa direct (first part) | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The direct start of ela mesa adds an early slabby crux.
|
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6b | ★★ ela mesa (first part) | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c | ★★★ belzebulis | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
6a | ★★ Aneva pano | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A new addition, tufa start that leads to slab and wall climbing.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ minotauros | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 19th Dec 2021 - Zaloggo | ||||||
Koloneta | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ kasiopi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ aktio | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 18th Dec 2021 - Zaloggo | ||||||
Koloneta | ||||||
6a | ★★★ nikopolis | 25m | ★★ Very Good |